<^r?>u 


A-       •' 


JOURNAL 


OF 


TRAVELS  AROUiND  THE  WORLD. 


TWENTY-SEVEN   THOUSAND   FIVE  HUNDRED 
MILES    OVER   SEA    AND    LAND. 


BY 

G.    E.   WIl^AE^TS, 


NEW  YORK  : 
Printed  foe  the  Author  by  D.  Appleton  &  Co. 

1877. 


COPYRIGHT    BY 

G.    E.    WINANTS, 

1877. 


PREFACE. 


The  following  pages  contain  a  simple  narrative — 
without  pretense  to  literary  elegance — of  travels  around 
tlie  world,  whicli  were  full  of  interest  and  instruction  to 
me.  I  can  but  hope  that  my  plain  account  of  them  will 
be  of  equal  interest  to  others,  and  have  the  satisfaction 
of  furnishing  it  for  the  perusal  of  such  friends  as  may 
desire  to  read  it. 

A  journey  around  the  world  is  a  very  diiferent  un- 
dertaking to-day  from  what  it  was  when  Columbus  first 
crossed  the  Atlantic.  The  vessels  in  which  he  made  his 
adventurous  voyages  are  said  to  have  been  less  than  one 
hundred  tons'  burden,  but  now  some  of  our  ocean-steam- 
ers are  of  the  capacity  of  five  thousand  tons.  Before  the 
introduction  of  steam  upon  the  sea,  it  took  a  sailing-ship 
from  thirty  to  forty  days  to  cross  the  Atlantic,  but  now 
the  passage  can  be  made  in  less  than  ten  days,  and  the 
time  is  reduced  in  the  same  proportion  in  the  voyage 
around  the  world. 

G.    E.    WiNANTS. 

New  York,  November  1,  1876. 


CONTENTS. 


Preface . 


PAGE 

8 


I.     New  York  to  Sax  Fraxcisco 9 

Albany — Niag-ara  Falls — Detroit— Chicago — Omaha — Cheyenne — Laramie  City 
—The  Plains— The  Rocky  Mountains— The  Devil's  Gate— Salt  Lake  City— 
The  Mormons— The  Tabernacle — Brigham  Young- The  People — Cape  Horn 
— Union  Pacific  Kailroad — Sacramento. 

II.     Caliporxia 24 

San  Francisco- When  settled— The  Golden  Gate— Oakland— Fruit— Tha  Cli- 
mate—The Seal-Kocks — Woodward  Garden— Telegraph  Hill. 

III.  Ox  THE  Pacific 31 

The  Steamship  Alaska — Letters  mailed— Dropping  a  Day — A  Gale  of  Wind — 
Whales — Native  Boats. 

IV.  ExcuRSioxs  IX  Jai'ax 43 

Yokohama- Teddo,  or  Tokio — Coolies— The  Tycoon's  Castle— Buddhist  Tem- 
ple— The  Mikado-  The  Capital— The  Shogun — Atangoreama- Stago  Yama 
—  Praying  to  their  Gods— A  Pagoda — The  Five  Hundred  Sages — Kamakura 
— Hasemura— Tea-House — Enoshima — The  Dragons — Katase— Fusi  Yama 
— Totsuka — The  Execution-Ground — Seminary  for  Young  Ladies — Mission- 
ary Work. 

V.    Japax 57 

The  Territory.  Population,  and  Government — Dwelling-Houses — The  Daimios 
—Ladles'  Black  Testh— Shaved  Heads— Lacquer— The  Arts — Costume. 

VI.     IxLAXD  Sea  of  Jap.vx  axd  Yellow  Sea  of  Chixa 63 

Flying-Fish— Hiogo — Osaka— Beauties  of  the  Sea— Shine  Saka— Agricultural 
Implements — Panoramic  Yiew  of  Four  Htmdred  Miles — Nagasaki— Taka- 
boko  Island— Yang-tse-kiang  Elver. 

VII.     Shaxghai  to  Hoxg-Koxg 69 

Population,  Industry,  People,  and  Government— Manufactures — The  Magnetic 

Needle— The  Art  of  Printing— Literature— Money — Shupping — Canals— Chi- 
nese Village— Pagoda— On  the  Pacific— Catching  Fish  at  Sea." 

VIII.     HoxG-KoxG 78 

The  Happy  Valley — Victoria  Park — Cemeteries — Dwellings— The  Governor's 
Palace— The  City  Hall— The  Colonial  Prison— Child-Stealing— Sail  in  the 
Harbor. 

IX.     Caxtox  axd  its  Sights 82 

The  Steamer  Whifj  Cloud—  Fortifications— Whampoa— Native  Boats— The 
Pearl  Paver— Population— The  Walls  of  the  City— Chinese  Shops— Buddhist 
Temples— Joss-House  —  Chinese  Boat-Eesidences  —  Typhoons —Tea :  how 
grown  and  cui-ed. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEE 

X. 


XL 


XII. 


XIII. 


XIV 


XV. 


XVI. 


XVII. 


XVIII. 


XIX. 


XX. 


XXI. 


XXII. 


rAsx 
Eeligion  of  the  Chinese 104 

The  State  Religion — Confucianism  and  Buddhism — Ancestral  Worship— Chris- 
tianity in  China— Idols — Priests. 

Chinese  Manners  and  Customs 127 

A  Chinaman's  Suicide — Costume — The  Compression  of  Ladies'  Feet — CoflSns — 
Eating — The  Gates  of  Hell — "Weddings — Opium — Government. 

Chinese  Industry 143 

Agriculture— Clans — Farmers — Farming  Utensils— Keaping — Irrigation— Silk 
— Embroidery — Cotton — Chinese  Loom. 

Hong-Kong  to  Ceylon.  .    150 

The  Steamship  Golconda — The  China  Sea— A  Gale— Singapore:  its  Population 
and  Climate — Fruit-Trees — Vegetation — Birds — Monkeys— Costume — Wild 
Game  —  Fish  —  Christian  Missionary  Work — Dwellings — Malacca  Straits — 
Penang — A  Waterfall— Spice-Trees — Snake-Grass — Reptiles  —  Native  Boats 
— A  State-Room  filled  with  Water. 

Ceylon 164 

Point  de  Galle  —Currency — Wild  Beasts — Natives— Climate— Christian  Mis- 
sion Work— Oriental  Spice-Trees — Native  Costume — Cocoanut-Tree— Bread- 
fruit— Jaca-fruit — Spice-Trees —  Fish — Buddhist  Temples — Priests— Idols — 
Beggars — Money-Brokers — Cinnamon-Trees. 

Ceylon  to  Calcutta 173 

Bay  of  Bengal— Madras,  India — The  Ship  anchors  in  the  Hoogly  River — Water- 
Snakes— Tiger  Island — Ex-King  of  Oude's  Palace — Landing. 

Calcutta 181 

Population  —  Harbor  —  DwelUngs  —  Gardens — Oriental  Trees — Native  City — 
City  of  Palaces— Streets— Coolies— Fort  William— The  Black  Hole  of  Cal- 
cutta— The  Nabob — Serampore  Christian  Mission-Carey  and  Ward— College 
of  Fort  William— The  Zenana  Mission— The  Bishop's  College— Asiatic  So- 
ciety—Government Houses. 

Calcutta  and  its  Sights 191 

Kali  Ghaut— The  Seven  Tanks-Reptiles— Wild  Beasts  — The  Bird-of-Para- 
di.se— A  Fish-Pond— The  Royal  Botanical  Garden— A .  Mahogany-Grove— 
The  Banyan-Tree— The  Garden  of  Eden— Burning  Human  Bodies— Amer- 
ican Consul. 

Government  and  Caste  in  India 196 

Alexander  the  Great— His  Flotilla— The  Ganges  River- The  East  India  Com- 
pany—The Viceroyalty— Form  of  Government— Heathen  Gods— Supersti- 
tion of  Caste. 

Customs  and  Manners  of  the  Natives 208 

The  Women  of  India— Nose-Rings— Costume— Robbers— Pressing  Troops- 
Money-lending — Mode  of  Living. 

Products  of  India 212 

Agricultural  Implements— Irrigation— Rice,  Cotton,  and  Silk  Culture— Cash- 
mere Wool— Sugar— Tobacco— Indigo— Opium— Gold,  Silver,  and  Precious 
Stones— Cashmere  Shawls— The  Rainy  Season — Thunder  and  Lightning. 

Calcutta  to  Benares 218 

The  East  India  Railway— Bedding  for  the  Journey— Poppy-Fields—The  Jun- 
gle—The Ganges— Mogul  Seria — Bridge  of  Boats — Clark's  Hotel. 

Benares 221 

Population— The  Monkey  Temple— Bull,  Peacock,  and  Monkey  Worship— 
Buruiag  the  Dead— The  Golden  Temple— Sarnath— The  Devil-Dance— The 
Sankata  Devil  Temple— Snake-Charmers— A  Wedding— A  Funeral. 


■CONTENTS. 


1 


CHAPTER 

XXIII. 


XXIV. 


XXV. 


XXVI. 


xxvn. 


XXVIII. 


XXIX. 


XXX. 


XXXI. 


XXXII. 


XXXIII. 


XXXIV. 


PAGE 

LucKNOw  AND  Cawnpoee 241 

Minarets  — The  King  of  Oude  —  Cawnpore— Cantonments— The  Mutiny  of 
1S57— The  Memorial  Garden— The  Well  in  which  the  Women  and  Children 
perished. 

AcxRA 250 

The  Gates— The  Fortress— The  Judgment  Seat— The  Hall  of  Audience— The 
Pearl  Mosque— The  Taj  Mahal— Tombs— The  Grand  Mosque— The  Echo— 
The  Park— The  Garden  of  Rest— The  Prince  of  Wales— Elephants. 

Delhi 260 

An  Excursion— Toogluckabad— Bullock-Carts— Fortification— The  Palace  and 
Citadel— The  ]\rusic-nall— The  Peacock-Throne  —  The  Mosque  of  Jumma 
Musjid— Asoka's  Pillar— Panthan  Fort— The  Kootub  Minar— The  Iron  Pil- 
lar-Rev. Dr.  Smith— The  Zenana  Mission — Himalaya  Mountains. 

Allahabad 276 

The  Fortifications — The  Ganges  and  Jumna  Rivers— A  Hindoo  Fair— Con- 
course of  People — Idols— Christian  Missionary  Work— Bridge  across  the 
Jumna  River. 

JUBBTJLPOEE    TO    BOMBAY 284 

Tigers  seen  on  the  Road— Herds  of  Deer  and  Antelopes— Birds— A  Mountain 
on  Fire — Jubbulpore — Precious  Stones— The  Prison- A  Hindoo  Temple — 
Monkeys — The  Ghauts— Mountain  Scenery. 

Bombay 291 

Population — Costume— Mohammedan  F.air — Elephanta  Island — Malabar  Hill — 
Manner  of  disposing  of  the  Dead  —  Parsees  — Fu-e- Worshipers  —  Mission- 
Work — A  Wedding. 

Bombay  to  Suez 299 

The  Steamship  Erl-King — The  Indian  Ocean — Flying- Fish — Aden — Mocha — 
The  Red  Sea — Mount  Sinai— Egyptian  Money. 

Egypt 311 

Suez — The  Suez  Canal — Ismailia — Sandy  Desert — Beggars — Population — Cairo 
—Government— Island  of  Rhoda— The  Citadel— The  River  Nile— The  Pyra- 
mids—The Sphinx— Christian  Missionary  Work— Camels  and  Donkeys — 
The  Great  Sahara  Desert— Vegetation — Alexandria — Pompey's  PUlar — Cleo- 
patra's Needle. 

Mediterranean  Sea 330 

The  Island  of  Candia — Strait  of  Messina — Sicily — Volcano  of  Mount  Etna — 
Volcano  of  Stromboli, 

Italy  :  Naples,  Eome,  Pisa,  Genoa,  Turin 334 

Bay  of  Naples— Mode  of  Living — Dwellings — Volcano  of  Solfatara — The  Mu- 
seum— Mount  Vesuvius — Pompeii — Rome— St.  Peter's  Church— The  Colos- 
seum—The Temple  of  Venus— The  Roman  Senate-Chamber— The  Pantheon 
— The  Forum- The  Vatican— The  Mamertine  Prison—Pisa — The  Leaning 
Tower— The  Cathedral— Genoa  —  Christopher  Columbus  —  San  Lorenzo  — 
Turin — The  King's  Palace — Mont  Cenis  Tunnel. 

Switzerland , 357 

Geneva  —  Dwellings  —  Population — Language  —  Money — Mont  Blanc  —  The 
Protestant  Cathedral — The  Yachts  and  Steamers  on  the  Lake. 

France  :  Macon,  Dijon,  Paris,  Havre 360 

Paris — The  Fashions — Population— Place  de  la  Concorde — Colonne  Vendome 
—The  Palais  Royal— The  Crystal  Palace— The  Siege  of  Paris— The  Museum 
— The  Bois  de  Boulogne— The  Council  of  Arbitration— The  Fortifications— 
The  Tuileries— The  Obelisk  of  Luxor. 


8 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  FAQX 

XXXV.     Englaistd  :  Lo^"DON,  Liteepooi 369 

The  Great  Metropolis — Buckingham  Palace — St.  Paul's  Cathedral — Eev.  Dr. 
Spurgeon — Wax-Figures — Windsor— Sight-seeing  in  London — Westmin- 
ster Abbey  —  Liverpool  —  Population — The  Docks — Ship-building — The 
Harbor— The  Hotels. 

XXXVI.     Wales  :   Chestee,  Bangor,  Holyhead,  Conway 382 

The  Castle  of  Chester — The  City  Walls— Surroundings— Bangor— Slate-Quar- 
ries— Bethesda— Prospect  Park — Old  Protestant  Cathedral — Market-Day 
— Holyhead — The  Harbor  and  Fortifications  conabined  —  Birds' -Nests — 
Girls  and  Boys  —Conway— Conway  Castle — The  River. 

XXXVII.     Atlantic  Ocean 389 

The  Steamship  Italy— Sea-Sickness— Rough  Weather — Arrival  at  Quaran- 
tine—Home again. 


jour:nal  of  tbayels 


Around  the  "World. 


CHAPTER   I. 

ISTEW    YORK    TO    SAJ^    FRAJSTCISCO. 

Septemher  7,  1875. — Mrs.  G.  E.  Win  ants  aucl  I  leave 
Bergen  Point,  New  Jersey,  upon  a  tour  around  the  world. 
We  take  passage  tbis  afternoon  on  tlie  steamer  Chancel- 
lor for  New  York ;  at  six  o'clock  we  eml)ark  upon  the 
steamer  St.  John,  the  Hudson  Kiver  night-boat  for  Al- 
bany, en  route  for  San  Francisco,  distance  thirty-three 
hundred  miles ;  fare  by  palace-cars  one  hundred  and 
thirty-six  dollars  apiece  in  gold. 

September  8th. — Albany.  We  arrive  here  this  morn- 
ing at  seven  o'clock;  take  breakfast  at  the  Delavan 
House ;  at  9  a.  m.  we  resume  the  tour  by  the  New  York 
Central  Pailroad,  arriving-  at  Niasrara  Falls  at  9  a.  ji., 
distance  four  hundi-ed  and  forty  miles.  Take  rooms  in 
the  Cataract  Hotel ;  board  four  dollars  and  a  half  per 
day  for  each  person. 

September  9t?t. — Niagara  Falls  doubtless  are  to-day, 
as  centuries  ago,  ever  charming  and  beautiful  to  behold, 


10  AROUND    THE    WO  ELL. 

and  may  justly  be  classed  am 0112^  the  great  wonders  of 
the  world.  They  are  the  pride  of  America;  their  grand 
eur,  magnitude,  and  magnificence,  are  w^ell  known  to  all 
the  civilized  world.  Ever  since  the  discovery  of  this 
wonderful  c.itai'act,  millions  of  people  have  flocked  thitlier 
from  all  countries,  to  gaze  with  feelings  of  the  deepest 
solemnity  on  the  tumultuous  fall  of  waters,  and  to  adore 
the  power  and  majesty  of  the  Almighty  as  these  are  ex- 
hibited and  realized.  The  Great  Lakes  of  North  Amei*- 
ica,  namely,  Superior,  Michigan,  Huron,,  and  Erie,  ]:our 
the  flood  of  tht'ir  accumnlated  w'aters  into  Lake  Ontario 
through  a  channel  of  about  thirty-six  miles  in  length, 
called  the  Niagara  River,  which  is  part  of  the  bonud- 
ary-line  between  Canada  and  the  State  of  New  York. 
Twenty-two  miles  below  its  commencement  at  Lake  Erie 
are  the  famous  Falls  of  Niagara.  These  Falls  are  di- 
vided into  two  b\-  Goat  Island  :  the  American  Falls  are  jQ 
nine  hundred  feet  wide  by  one  hundi-ed  and  sixty-fonr 
feet  high  ;  the  Horseshoe,  or  Canadian  Falls,  are  two  thou- 
sand feet  wide,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet  high. 
It  is  said  that  the  discovery  of  this  stupendous  waterfall 
was  first  made  by  a  white  man,  a  French  Jesuit  mission- 
ary, in  the  year  1678,  There  are  tw^o  bridges  which 
span  the  Niagara  River:  one,  about  two  miles  below  the 
Falls,  used  principally  by  railroad-cars  and  carriages; 
and  the  other  is  but  a  few  hundred  yards  below  the 
cataract,  designed  chiefly  for  foot-passengers  and  light 
carriages.  A  large  number  of  people,  becoming  too  vent- 
uresome, have  lost  their  lives  by  being  carried  over  the 
Falls.     Even  to-day  a  gentleman  lost  his  grasp  of  the 


I^EW    YORK    TO    SAN  FRANCISCO.  \\ 

bank,  and  was  carried  over  by  the  riisbing  waters,  never 
to  rise  again.  This  evening  we  leave  Niagara  by  the 
nine  o'clock  train  en  route  for  Chicago,  distance  about 
five  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

September  10th. — We  arrive  at  Detroit  at  7  a.m., 
where  we  stop  for  three  hours  and  take  breakfast.  At 
9  p.  M.  we  arrive  in  the  city  of  Chicago,  and  23ut  up  at 
the  Sherman  Hotel;  board  four  dollars  apiece  per  day. 

September  11th. — We  devote  the  time  princij)ally  in 
looking  over  the  city,  sight-seeing.  The  burned  district 
has  been  built  over  by  the  construction  of  larger  and 
more  substantial  buildings  of  stone,  in  a  more  uniform 
and  elaborate  style ;  there  is  only  a  slight  tracing  of  tlie 
burned  district  visible  to  designate  the  large  conflagra- 
tion of  1871,  which  spread  over  two  square  miles  of  the 
best  section  of  the  cit}^ 

September  12t7i. — This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  at- 
tended the  Presbyterian  Church,  two  miles  out  from  the 
business  part  of  the  city. 

September  l^th. — This  morning  by  the  ten-o'clock  train 
we  resume  our  tour  en  route  for  Omaha,  distance  five  hun- 
dred miles.  At  1\  p.  m.  we  arrive  at  Meudota,  and  take 
dinner ;  at  7  p.  m.  we  take  tea  at  Burlington,  where  we 
cross  the  Mississippi  River. 

September  IMh. — This  morning  at  ten  o'clock  we  ar- 
rive at  Council  Bluffs,  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri  River, 
where  we  stop  about  thirty  minutes.  After  crossing  the 
bridge,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  we  are  in  the 
city  of  Omaha,  where  we  make  another  stop.  Omaha 
contains  a  population  of  about  eighteen  thousand,  and 


12  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

suddenly  sprang  into  existence  by  tlie  construction  of 
the  Union  Pacific  Railroad.  This  road,  with  the  Central 
Pacific  and  other  connecting  links,  reaching  from  the 
Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  is  conceded  to  be  the  long- 
est in  the  world.  Though  but  little  faith  was  at  first  felt 
in  the  successful  construction  of  this  great  railway,  no 
one  at  the  present  day  can  fail  to  appreciate  the  enter- 
prise which  charactei'ized  the  progress  and  final  com])le- 
tion  of  this  road,  and  its  immense  value  both  to  our  own 
people  and  the  world  at  large.  The  first  contract  for 
construction  was  made  in  the  year  1863,  and  the  road 
was  comj^leted  in  1869  ;  over  it  cars  have  since  been 
running  regularly.  This  immense  road  is  from  Omaha 
to  San  Francisco  two  thousand  miles  in  length,  and  from 
New  York  to  Omaha  thirteen  hundred  miles,  makino; 
together  a  continuous  line  of  rail  of  thirty-three  hundred 
miles  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco,  The  completion 
of  the  Union  and  Central  Pacific  Railroads,  the  great 
highway  of  nations,  has  opened  a  new  era  in  the  passen- 
ger-travel of  the  country.  Crossing  over  the  American 
Continent  by  rail  in  seven  days,  from  ocean  to  ocean,  is 
as  a  household  word  throughout  the  land.  The  steady 
increase  in  the  number  of  peoj^le  going  to  and  returning 
from  the  great  West  enables  us  to  form  some  idea  of  the 
future  mammoth  proportions  to  which  the  23assenger- 
traffic  will  arrive.  When  I  crossed  over  this  road  in 
1869,  the  average  was  about  twenty  passengers  per  day, 
and  now  it  has  increased  to  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  first-class  travelers  per  day,  besides  the  emi- 
grants.    The  road  has  but  few  tunnels,  and  these  pass 


NEW    YORK    TO    SAy    FBANCISCO.  I3 

tlirougli  a  soft  species  of  rock  or  rotten-stone.  The  prin- 
cipal part  of  the  road  runs  over  a  plain  as  level  as  the 
sea,  except  in  crossing  over  the  Sierra  Nevadas  and  the 
Black  Hills  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  where  we  find  a 
heavy  but  gradual  upgrade.  The  greatest  elevation  on 
the  Union  Pacific  is  at  Sherman,  eight  thousand  two 
hundred  and  forty-two  feet,  and  was  said  to  be  the 
greatest  height  that  railroad  -  cars  ever  reached;  but 
there  are  higher  points  now  reached  by  rail  in  South 
America.  The  variegated  peaks  of  the  mountains  are 
covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The  grade  of  the  Central 
Pacific  as  it  winds  around  these  high  peaks  is  one  hun- 
dred and  sixteen  feet  to  the  mile,  the  highest  point  be- 
ing about  seven  thousand  feet.  As  we  approach  the 
summit  of  the  Sierra  Nevada,  on  our  left  the  rugged 
mountain-blufl:s  rise  in  quick  succession  to  a  great  height, 
€ven  above  the  clouds,  while  on  the  right  the  deep  ravine 
descends  abruptly  for  over  a  thousand  feet.  This  wild, 
picturesque  scene  is  most  interesting,  striking  one  with 
awe  and  astonishment  at  the  power  of  Him  who  modeled 
the  world,  and  made  everything  therein  for  the  benefit 
and  enjoyment  of  man. 

The  surface  of  the  country  between  the  Black  Hills 
and  the  Bocky  Mountains,  and  upon  the  Rattlesnake 
Bano-e,  is  level  for  several  hundred  miles ;  hence  the  road 
has  an  easy  grade,  even  up  to  the  top  of  the  mountains, 
winding  its  way  gently  around  the  higher  peaks.  Tak- 
ing the  road  altogether,  it  has  not  cost  for  grading,  per 
mile,  more  than  half  as  much  as  our  ordinary  Eastern 
and  Southern  roads.     There  are  serious  objections,  how- 


14  AEOUNB    THE    WORLD. 

ever,  to  the  locality  of  the  road,  namely :  if  it  liad  been 
constructed  some  tliree  or  four  hundred  miles  farther 
south,  it  \vx>uld  have  run  throuoh  a  more  fertile  section 
of  country,  and  would  have  built  up  more  rapidly  towns 
and  cities,  and  also  avoided  the  cold  climate,  as  well  as  the 
banks  of  snow,  which  are  said  to  be  piled  up  during  the 
lengthy  winters  like  raountain-toj3S.  The  railroad  com- 
panies have  made  some  provision  against  the  heavy  snow- 
fall by  constructing  snow-sheds  over  the  track,  which 
extend  for  many  miles,  and  yet  what  has  been  done  is 
not  sufficient  to  break  off  the  heavy  drifts  which  loom 
up  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  high.  In  consequence  of  not 
having  any  rainfall,  during  the  summer  and  autumn 
months  on  the  mountains,  for  the  distance  of  over  a 
thousand  miles,  there  is  not  a  spear  of  grass  or  green 
herb  to  be  seen,  except  at  intervals  along  some  small 
brook  in  which  the  snow-water  finds  its  way  from  off 
the  distant  mountain-tops. 

On  leaving  Omaha  we  stop  for  thirty  minutes  at  Fre- 
mont and  take  dinner.  This  is  a  small  town  containing 
about  three  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  said  to  be  rap- 
idly on  the  increase.  At  6  p.  m.  we  arrive  at  Grand 
Island  and  take  supper.  This  place,  it  is  claimed,  will 
become  an  important  railroad  centre.  It  seems  to  have 
a  good  supply  of  churches,  schools,  hotels,  and  stores. 

September  Ibtli. — This  morning  early,  as  we  were 
gliding  over  the  plains,  we  saw  in  the  distance  a  fine 
herd  of  antelope.  All  through  the  day,  at  intervals,  we 
passed  by  numerous  emigrant-wagons,  loaded  with  men^ 
women,  and  children,  some  drawn  by  oxen  and    some 


N'FW    YOBK    TO    SAN  FRANCISCO. 


15 


"by  mules,  dragging  their  w;iy  through  the  ])rairies,  some 
going  west,  others  going  east.  We  stop  at  Sidney  for 
thirty  minutes  and  take  "breakfast.  The  Government 
has  established  a  military  post  at  this  station,  and  erected 
extensive  barracks  and  warehouses  for  the  l)etter  jirotec- 
tion  of  the  road.     At  one  o'clock  we  stop  at  Cheyenne 


CHEYENNE. 


and  dine.  This  town  is  located  at  the  base  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains ;  it  contains  a  population  of  about  four  thou- 
sand souls,  and  is  the  county-seat  of  Laramie  County,  and 
the  capital  of  Wyoming  Territory.  At  one  time  Chey- 
enne is  said  to  have  been  infested  with  rouo-hs,  o-am- 
bling-hells,  and  dance-houses,  and  had  frequent  murders 
by  night  and  day;  this  lasted  until  the  quiet  and  better 
class  of  citizens  took  the  law  into  their  own  hands  and 


16  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

liung  some  of  tlie  desperate  characters;  others  fled,  for 
fear  of  arrest,  and  now  the  town  is  in  a  flourishing  con- 
dition. We  stop  at  Fort  Laramie  and  take  supper. 
This  fort  was  established  in  1869,  to  protect  the  men 
working  on  the  railroad  against  the  Indians,  who  made 
several  raids  upon  the  road  and  killed  many  of  the  la- 
borers. 

Septemher  l^tli. — This  morning  we  breakfast  at  Green 
Kiver.  It  is  said  that,  in  early  times,  an  important  trad- 
ing-j)ost  was  located  near  tkis  station,  held  l>y  the  Mor- 
mons, who  reaped  a  rich  harvest  of  from  five  to  twenty 
dollars  a  team  for  crossing  tkem  over  the  river,  accord- 
ing as  the  owners  were  able  to  pay.  We  stop  for  thirty 
minutes  at  Evanston  and  take  dinner.  Later  in  the  day 
we  pass  l^y  the  "  One-Thousand-mile-Tree,"  called  by 
that  name  on  account  of  its  being  one  thousand  miles 
from  Omaha.  After  leaving  tbe  big  tree  we  soon  pass 
througk  the  Devil's  Gate,  and  behold  another  wild 
scene  of  Nature's  works.  At  six  o'clock  we  arrive  in 
Ogden,  and  after  tea  we  take  the  cars  by  the  brancli 
road,  wkicli  is  thirty-six  and  a  half  miles  long,  built  l)y 
the  Mormons,  and  arrive  in  Salt  Lake  City  at  eight 
o'clock.  The  fare  on  this  branch  line  from  Ogden  and 
return  is  five  dollars.  We  put  up  in  the  Townsen  Hotel ; 
board  four  dollars  per  day  in  gold  for  each  person. 

September  Vltli. — Salt  Lake  is  situated  on  a  broad 
plateau,  about  twenty  miles  in  width,  bounded  on  two 
sides  bv  a  chain  of  hio'li  mountains.  This  plain  is 
divided  by  a  small  river  running  directly  through  its 
centre,  called  the  Jordan,  a  beautiful  stream,  which  in  its 


NEW    YORK    TO    SAN  FRANCISCO.  17 

general  appearance  resembles  the  river  of  the  same  name 
in  Palestine.  The  city  proper  is  situated  directly  west 
of  and  at  the  base  of  a  chain  of  high  mountains,  which 
loom  up  over  eleven  thousand  feet,  whose  summit  is 
about  ten  miles  distant,  and  is  covered  with  perpetual 
snow.  The  city  is  very  prettily  laid  out  with  straight 
streets  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  in  width,  inter- 
secting at  right  angles,  with  wide  side\'S'allvS,  and  rows 
of  large  ornamental  shade-trees  planted  on  each  side. 
The  gutters  in  all  the  principal  streets  are  filled  with 
streams  of  pui'e  running  water,  conducted  through  canals 
from  the  snowy  mountains  for  the  purpose  of  irrii[rating 
the  land ;  and  as  the  water  leaves  the  gutters  it  finds  its 
way  to  and  over  the  farming-lands  in  the  rear  of  the  city. 
During  the  sununer  and  autumn  months  they  have  no 
rainfall,  and,  if  it  were  not  for  this  system  of  irrigation, 
the  land  would  not  produce  croj^s.  Where  the  lands 
have  l)een  watered  hj  this  artificial  method,  the  croj)S 
are  all  very  heavy ;  but,  where  the  land  has  not  been 
watered,  the  soil  is  seemingly  dead.  Salt  Lake  City  con- 
tains about  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  ])ut  the  entire 
settlements  of  the  Mormons  in  Utah,  which  extend  up 
and  down  the  valleys  for  nearly  four  hundred  miles,  con- 
tain in  all  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls, 
and  are  rapidly  increasing,  for  they  are  extending  rail- 
roads, and  building  up  towns  and  cities,  in  every  direc- 
tion. 

It  was  in  the  year  1847  that  less  than  five  hundred 
Mormons,  having  traveled  through  a  thousand  miles  of 
an  uninhabited  Indian  country,  settled  in  the  valley  of 


18 


AROUND    THE   WORLD. 


Salt  Lake.  They  were  very  poor,  and  it  is  probable  that 
tlie  extent  of  tlie  sufferings  and  sacrifices  made  hj  the 
Mormons  to  reacli  this  remote  valley  will  never  be  known 
but  to  tbose  wbo  endured  tkem ;  and  since  they  have 
been  in  tkis  valley  they  have  encountered  many  fearful 
vicissitudes.  In  1857  they  were  molested  by  the  troops 
of  the  United  States  Government  on  account  of  polyg- 


SALT  LAKE  VALLEY. 


amy;  in  order  to  defend  themselves,  they  Ijuilt  a  rough 
stone-wall  round  the  city,  but  at  length,  finding  that 
they  could  not  ward  oft'  the  invading  army,  and  before  it 
reached  the  city,  they  packed  up  their  goods,  taking  their 
women  and  children,  and  went  down  into  the  southern 
part  of  Utah,  where  they  remained  until  the  following 
spring.     On  their  return  they  found  that  the  army  had 


liEW    YORK    TO    SAN  FRANCISCO.  \^ 

departed  without  doing  any  material  damage  to  the  city, 
and  left  a  large  amount  of  stores,  together  with  a  great 
niiml)er  of  wagons,  which  were  afterward  bought  by  the 
Mormons  for  a  merely  nominal  sum.  Instead  of  this 
invasion  being  a  damage  to  the  Mormons,  in  the  end  it 
was  of  great  benefit.  It  is  reported  that  this  movement 
against  tlie  Mormons  cost  the  United  States  Government 
nearly  three  million  dollars.  When  the  city  of  Salt  Lake 
was  first  settled,  the  principal  material  used  was  sun- 
dried  brick,  giving  it  in  tliat  respect  the  appearance  of  a 
Spanisk  town,  but  the  better  class  of  buildings  is  now 
being  constructed  of  put  stone  in  the  most  modern  style ; 
otkers  are  built  of  wood.  The  great  Tabernacle,  which 
is  said  to  seat  fourteen  thousand  people,  is  tke  first  ob- 
ject for  strangers  to  see.  The  building  is  oblong  in 
skape,  having  a  lengtk  of  two  kundred  and  fifty  feet  by 
one  hundred  and  fifty  in  Avidth.  The  roof  is  supported 
by  forty-six  columns  of  cut  sandstone ;  from  these  stone 
pillars  tke  roof  springs,  forming  an  unbroken  arck,  one 
of  tke  largest  self-sustaining  roofs  on  tke  continent.  They 
have  also  in  course  of  erection  a  fine  Mormon  Temple  of 
cut  stone,  wkick,  wken  finisked,  it  is  said  will  cost  two 
million  dollars.  President  Young  is  now  constructing  a 
kandsome  palace,  wkick  will  be  one  of  tke  finest  frame 
kouses  in  America.  The  Mormons  also  kave  a  tkeatre 
wkick  will  seat  some  tkousands  of  people,  and  many 
otker  large  buildings  of  a  public  ckaracter. 

Tke  peo|)le  are  governed  by  Pi'esident  Young,  wko  is 
assisted  by  tke  twelve  apostles.  Tkeir  form  of  govern- 
ment is  plain   and  simple,  and   seemingly  works  well. 


20  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

The  people  are  said  to  be  quiet  and  law-abiding.  When 
a  person  is  arrested  for  a  crime,  he  is  immediately  taken 
before  the  provost-marshal  and  tried  at  once ;  if  found 
guilty,  a  tine  is  inflicted ;  if  he  is  unable  to  pay,  a  ball 
and  chain  are  attached  to  his  leg,  and  he  is  put  at  work 
on  the  public  streets  to  satisfy  the  penalty.  The  admin- 
istration of  government  is  conducted  strictly  upon  the 
principle  of  economy;  and,  instead  of  their  municipal 
tax,  as  in  some  other  cities,  being  from  four  to  five  per 
cent.,  it  is  less  than  one. 

September  I'Sth. — This  forenoon  we  take  a  ride  to  the 
warm  sulphur  springs,  and  also  to  the  military  encamp- 
ment. Before  leaving  the  city  we  called  upon  President 
Young,  who  gave  us  a  cordial  reception.  He  is  a  large, 
portly  gentleman,  of  over  sevent}^  years,  but  looks  young 
for  that  age.  He  was  very  pleasant,  and  conversed  freely 
upon  the  general  topics  of  the  day. 

It  is  said  that  President  Young  has  taken  a  prominent 
part  in  all  public  improvements,  in  every  plan  calculated 
to  facilitate  communication  between  the  Territory  and 
the  Eastern  States,  assisting  in  forming  several  express 
companies  and  stage-lines.  He  built  several  hundred 
miles  of  the  Western  Union  Telegraph,  graded  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  of  the  Union  Pacific  Railroad,  and 
has  ever  ofl:ered  his  assistance  to  every  enterprise  having 
any  bearing  on  the  interest  of  Utah.  He  also  used  every 
effort  to  push  forward  to  an  early  completion  the  Utah 
Central  Railroad,  of  which  he  was  the  first  president. 
His  great  influence  over  his  people  is  strongly  illustrated 
by  the  promptness  with  which  they  respond  to  his  call 


^FW    YORK    TO    SAN  FEANCISCO.  21 

in  every  emergency.  If  it  were  not  for  polygamy,  wliicli 
they  claim  to  be  the  vital  part  of  their  religion,  they 
would  be  as  fine  a  race  as  we  have,  for  they  are  a  sober, 
cleanly,  and  hard-working  peoj^le. 

We  take  onr  departure  from  Salt  Lake  City  by  the 
three-o'clock  train,  and  arrive  at  Ogden  at  five,  where  we 
make  a  change  of  cars,  and  resume  our  tour  en  route  for 
San  Francisco. 

September'  19th. — Sabbath.  This  morning  we  break- 
fast at  Elko.  A  good  meal  can  be  had  on  any  part  of 
the  road  for  one  dollar  currency  or  seventy-five  cents 
coin ;  the  cars  stop  for  thirty  minutes  at  all  the  regular 
eating-stations.  We  dine  at  Battle  Mountain,  and  take 
supper  at  Humboldt.  This  station  is  situated  on  the 
edge  of  the  great  Nevada  Desert,  and  it  would  be  worth 
the  while  of  any  tourist  who  wishes  to  examine  the  won- 
ders of  Nature  to  stop  here  and  remain  for  a  few  days. 

September  ^QtJi. — This  morning  we  pass  what  is  called 
Cape  Horn,  which  is  one  of  the  wildest  and  grandest 
scenes  on  the  American  Continent.  The  cars  stopped 
for  twenty  minutes  to  give  time  to  the  passengers  to  ex- 
amine and  gaze  upon  the  wonderful  works  of  Nature. 
Timid  people  will  draw  back  with  a  shudder,  one  look 
into  this  fearful  chasm  being  sufiicient  to  unsettle  their 
nerves.  On  our  right  the  mountain-range  towers  up  above 
the  clouds,  while  on  the  left  is  a  ravine  over  a  thousand 
feet  in  depth.  In  a  short  time  after  leaving  this  scene 
of  natural  beauty,  we  arrive  at  Colfax,  where  we  stop 
and  take  breakfast.  All  through  this  section  can  be  seen 
where  the  gold-diggers  have  been  at  work  by  the  evidence 


22 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


of  the  soil  liaviuo;  been  thrown  over,  and  there  are  now 
some  engaged  taking  out  the  precious  metal.  We  can 
see  occasionally  small  towns  of  huts  or  cabins  inhabited 
by  those  in  search  of  gold,  with  their  families,  but  we  do 


REMNANT   or  A  TRIBE. 


not  see  as  many  children  running  al)out  the  grounds  as 
in  Salt  Lake  City.  In  a  short  time  after  leaving  Colfax 
we  come  to  Sacramento,  the  capital  of  California. 

Sacramento  a  few  years  ago  was  a  small  and  un- 
important liamlet,  but  it  has  emerged  into  a  thriving, 
bustling  city,  containing  a  population  of  twenty-five 
thousand.  The  ground  upon  which  the  city  is  located  is 
low,  and  the  younger  town  was  swept  away  by  the  over- 
flow of  the  river  of  the  same  name.  To  guard  against  a 
recurrence  of  this  evil,  they  raised  the  bed  of  the  city 


NEW    YORK    TO    SAN   FRANCISCO.  23 

above  the  liigliest  kDOwn  flood,  and  built  a  more  sub- 
stantial style  of  residences.  We  proceed  on  our  way,  and 
dine  at  Latlirop.  At  half-past  five  o'clock  we  arrive  in 
the  city  of  San  Francisco,  and  take  up  quarters  in  the 
Occidental  Hotel ;  board  three  dollars  per  day  each  in 
gold. 


CHAPTEK  II 


CALIFORNIA. 


September  'i\st. — Finally,  liere  we  are,  on  the  golden 
shore  of  California.  We  have  traveled  over  one  of  the 
longest  roads  in  the  world,  from  the  far  East  to  the  far 
West ;  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific  ;  from  where  the 
sun  rises  out  of  the  waters  to  where  it  sets  in  the  waters. 
The  city  of  San  Francisco  presents  a  picturesque  and  yet 
broken  appearance,  owing  to  a  portion  being  built  on 
the  hills,  which  attain  a  considerable  altitude.  From 
the  tops  of  these  hills  a  fine  view  of  the  town  can  be 
obtained.  The  city  proper  is  located  upon  a  narro^w 
peninsula,  which  separates  the  bay  of  San  Francisco 
from  the  Pacific  Ocean.  As  the  city  continues  to  in- 
crease in  size  it  extends  back  from  the  bay,  takes  in  and 
covers  over  several  high  hills,  among  Avhich  is  Prospect 
Hill,  three  hundred  feet  high ;  E-ussian  Hill,  three  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet ;  Clay  Hill,  nearly  four  hundred  feet ; 
and  Lone  Mountain,  which  is  twelve  hundred  feet — 
through  all  of  which  the  streets  are  being  rapidly  ex- 
tended. The  dirt  taken  from  these  hills  is  removed  to 
the  water-front  and  used  for  filling  in  the  bay,  with 
which  hundreds  of  acres  have  been  reclaimed.  As  soon 
as  the  new-made  ground  is  raised  above  water,  store- 
houses are  built  for  the  use  of  commerce. 


CALIFORNIA.  25 

The  city  ^\as  principally  settled  by  Americans  in  tlie 
year  1849,  who  emigrated  from  Eastern  and  Western 
States  in  search  of  gold,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  great 
desire  for  wealth,  there  was  but  little  attention  paid  to 
building  up  the  city  until  several  years  later ;  and  that 
part  constructed  by  the  pioneers  has  long  since  been 
swept  a\v\ay,  and  more  substantial  and  commodious  build- 
ings have  been  erected.  The  new  houses  are  of  brick, 
cemented  on  the  outside,  giving  them  the  appearance  of 
stone ;  others  are  built  of  stone.  In  consequence  of  the 
frequent  earthquakes  to  which  tlie  city  is  subject,  the 
inhabitants  find  it  unsafe  to  run  their  buildings  up  as 
high  as  those  in  Eastern  cities,  lest  they  should  be  shaken 
down  by  the  elements. 

The  harbor  of  San  Francisco  is  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  commodious  in  America,  if  not  in  the  world.  Its 
entrance  is  throuo;h  the  Grolden  Gate,  whick  is  one  and 
a  half  mile  in  width  and  about  three  miles  inland  from 
tke  ocean,  where  the  bay  is  entered,  and  in  front  of  which 
the  city  of  San  Francisco  is  located.  This  spacious  bay 
is  sixty  miles  long,  varying  from  four  to  nineteen  miles 
in  width,  with  a  depth  of  water  capable  of  floating  the 
largest  shi|)s;  there  is  a  great  number  of  vessels  of  all 
nationalities  in  tkis  port.  Eegular  lines  of  steamers  con- 
nect San  Francisco  with  Japan,  China,  and  all  points  on 
the  northern  and  southern  Pacific  coast,  while  steam- 
boats and  railroads  connect  with  all  the  important  in- 
land towns  and  cities. 

When  the  skip-canal  which  is  in  contemplation  shall 
kave  been   constructed   across  the  isthmus    of  Central 

3 


26 


AROUND    THE    WOULD. 


America,  too-etlier  with  the  great  Union  and  Central  Pa- 
cific  Railroads,  and  other  connecting  links  which  are 
already  projected,  with  a  rich  and  fertile  soil,  and  the 
mineral  resources  of  the  Pacific  coast  more  fully  devel- 


SAK  FRANCISCO. 


oped,  San  Francisco  is  destined  to  become  a  great  com- 
mercial emporium  of  North  America,  second  only  to  New 
York  in  mao;nitude. 

The  city  of  San  Francisco  claims  to  have  a  popula- 
tion of  two  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  souls,  consist- 
ing of  all  nationalities;  and,  should  she  continue  to  in- 
crease in  the  future  in  the  same  ratio  as  in  the  past, 
doubtless  her   numbers  will    soon    exceed   the    present 


CALIFORNIA.  27 

population  of  the  city  of  New  York.  The  suburbs  are 
rapidly  increasing.  Oakland,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  bay  from  San  Francisco,  has  grown  within  a  few 
years  from  a  small  hamlet  to  be  a  city  of  considerable 
magnitude.  Many  of  the  business-men  of  San  Francisco 
make  Oakland  their  place  of  residence.  The  people 
■of  the  town  claim  that,  for  that  purpose,  it  far  sur- 
passes San  Francisco.  Its  genial  climate,  its  delightful 
scenery,  its  smooth  macadamized  streets,  shaded  with 
evergreen  foliage,  and  its  superb  drives  and  beautiful 
gardens,  have  induced  many  peo23le  of  wealth  to  settle 
in  Oakland  City. 

California  is  the  finest  fruit-growing  country  in  which 
I  have  been.  Peaches,  pears,  })lums,  figs,  and  grapes, 
^row  in  perfection.  Some  of  this  fine  fruit  is  trans- 
ported to  New  York  and  othei'  Eastern  markets;  but 
the  distance  over  rail  is  too  far  to  send  fruit,  for  it  loses 
its  flavor  before  coming  into  use.  Grapes  are  exten- 
sively cultivated  in  all  parts  of  the  State,  and  the  wine 
made  from  the  most  suitable  grapes  is  said  to  l^e  quite 
as  good  as  that  im^^orted  from  foreign  countries. 

The  climate  of  San  Francisco  is  rather  peculiar.  In 
the  forenoon  the  town  has  a  dingy  ajjj^earance,  having 
strong  indications  of  a  rainy  day ;  about  ten  o'clock  it 
clears  up  with  ])right  sunshine,  and  in  the  afternoon  the 
effect  of  the  cool  breeze  is  felt  from  off  the  ocean.  There 
are  only  ten  degrees  difterence  in  the  temj^erature  be- 
tween summer  and  winter.  When  I  was  here,  during 
the  summer  of  1869,  it  seemed  novel  to  see  ladies  prome- 
nade the  streets  of  San  Francisco  in  the  month  of  July, 


28  AROUND    TUE    WORLD. 

dressed  in  furs,  and  gentlemen  in  overcoats,  sucli  as  we 
^vould  consider  to  be  winter  clotMng. 

Septeinber  22c/. — To-day  we  cross  over  tlie  bay  of  San 
Francisco  to  tlie  city  of  Oakland,  and  visit  Mr.  Mark 
Winant  and  family,  formerly  of  Staten  Island,  wlio  re- 
ceive us  cordially.  What  Brooklyn  is  to  New  York 
City,  Oakland  is  to  tlie  city  of  San  Francisco.  The  town 
derived  its  name  from  beino;  built  in  a  forest  of  ever- 
green  oaks,  with  orchards  of  fruit-trees,  parks,  gardens, 
and  vineyards,  on  every  side.  Amid  this  forest  of  per- 
petual green  can  be  seen,  peeping  out  here  and  there,, 
the  substantial  residence  of  the  wealthy  merchant,  the 
magnificent  villa  of  the  nabob,  and  the  neat  and  tasteful 
cottage  of  the  well-to-do  mechanic,  who  have  been  at- 
tracted here  by  its  grand  scenery,  mild  climate,  and  quiet 
surroundings,  being  free  from  the  dust,  noise,  and  bustle, 
of  a  large  city.  It  is  supplied  wdth  gas  and  water,  and 
two  daily  newspapers.  Churches  and  schools  are  more 
numerous  in  Oakland,  according  to  its  population,  than 
in  San  Francisco.  The  city  has  a  population  of  fifteen 
thousand,  and  is  rapidly  increasing. 

September  23<:/. — To-day  we  take  a  ride  out  to  the 
cemetery  and  suburbs. 

September  24^A. — This  afternoon  we  hire  a  carriage 
and  ride  out  to  the  Seal-Rocks,  a  fashionable  place  of 
resort,  which  are  six  miles  out.  A  good  macadamized 
road  leads  froiji  the  city  over  a  succession  of  sand-hills ; 
from  the  summit  of  some  of  these  hills  we  occasionally 
catch  a  glimpse  of  the  ocean  and  bay  in  the  distance ;  as 
we  pass  over  the  summit  of  the  farthest  and  highest  of 


CALIFORNIA.  29 

these  hills,  almost  at  our  feet  the  great  Pacific  Ocean,  in 
all  its  mystery  and  majesty,  opens  before  ns.  On  our 
right,  in  the  distance,  can  be  seen  the  Golden  Gate, 
which  is  open  to  shi2:)S  of  all  nations.  Some  three  hun- 
dred yards  from  the  land  two  rugged  rocks  rise  abruptly 
out  of  the  sea,  to  the  height  of  about  seventy-five  feet, 
forming  an  area  of  perhaps  an  acre  each,  literally  cov- 
ered with  seals  and  sea-lions ;  the  seals  were  of  the  size 
of  a  Newfoundland  dog,  l)ut  the  sea-lions  much  larger, 
and  their  noise  resembled  that  of  the  bark  of  a  dog; 
they  are  seemingly  tame,  and  are  protected  by  the  laws 
of  the  State.  They  cling  to  the  rocks  as  tenaciously  as 
if  they  had  been  in  possession  for  thousands  of  years. 
They  often  come  in  conflict,  struggling  for  the  higher 
places,  and  engage  in  loud  disputation,  unlike  any  con- 
troversy which  I  have  ever  heard  before ;  their  fierce 
growls  and  barks  could  be  heard  for  miles.  I  doubt  if 
there  is  another  such  scene  to  be  witnessed  anywhere 
in  the  world. 

Septemher  'Ibth. — We  take  a  ride  out  to  the  North 
Beach,  where  many  visitors  go  daily,  to  enjoy  the  sea- 
breeze. 

September  ^^tli. — Sabbath.  Both  morning  and  even- 
ing we  attended  the  Methodist  Church. 

September  27tli. — We  proposed  to  visit  the  Yosemite 
Valley,  and  should  have  done  so,  but  were  dissuaded  by 
those  who  had  been  there  declarino;  that  it  was  as  much 
of  a  tour  of  toil  as  of  pleasure,  unless  one  could  remain 
in  the  valley  for  several  weeks,  allowing  sufiicient  time 
for  rest  and  meditation.     The  tour  is  partly  made  by 


30  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

rail,  and  partly  by  stage,  over  rough,  broken,  and  dusty 
roads. 

September  28fJi. — To-day  I  attended  the  noon  prayer- 
meeting,  modeled  after  the  Fulton  Street  meeting  in  New 
York  City.  After  having  the  pleasure  of  speaking  a  few 
words  in  behalf  of  the  Mastei^s  cause,  at  the  close  of  the 
meeting,  the  little  band  of  Christians,  both  brothers  and 
sisters,  hovered  around,  greeting  me  by  shaking  of  h an ds^ 
and  inviting  me  to  call  in  again,  and  assist  them  in  their 
work. 

Septemher  ^^th.  —  This  afternoon  we  ride  out  to 
Woodward  Gardens,  which  are  adorned  with  a  variety 
of  trees  and  flowers,  selected  from  all  parts  of  the  world. 
In  the  gallery  are  some  rare  paintings  and  statuary ;  in 
the  zoological  department  is  a  great  variety  of  wild 
animals,  including  the  California  lion,  and  a  grizzly  bear 
weighing  sixteen  hundred  pounds;  also  a  number  of 
California  birds. 

September  ^Oth. — We  continue  rambling  over  the  city, 
sight-seeing,  and  ascend  Telegraph  Hill,  whence  we  ob- 
tain a  beautiful  view  both  of  the  city  and  shipping  in 
the  harl)or.  There  are  many  profitable  tours  that  could 
be  made  over  California,  which  w^ould  require  many 
months  to  accomplish. 


CHAPTER   III. 

ojst    the    pacific. 

Octoher  1st. — To-day,  at  twelve  o'clock,  we  embaik 
on  board  the  steamship  Alaska  en  route  for  Japan ;  dis- 
tance five  thousand  and  fifty  miles,  fare  two  hundred  and 
fifty  dollars  apiece.  We  have  in  company  thirty-five  first- 
class  passengers,  and  six  hundred  and  fifty  Chinamen  in 
the  steerage.  This  is  conceded  to  be  the  longest  sea-voy- 
ao-e  in  the  Avorld  Avithout  cominu'  in  siirht  of  land.  The 
Alaska  is  one  of  the  first  ships  of  the  fleet  to  which  she 
belongs.  She  measui'es  forty-one  hundred  tons,  three 
hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  length,  forty  feet  breadth  of 
beam,  and  thirty-one  feet  depth  of  hold.  Her  cylinder 
is  one  hundred  and  five  inches,  with  twelve  feet  stroke, 
and  she  burns  about  fifty  tons  of  coal  in  every  tw^enty- 
four  hours.  She  is  registered  to  carry  fourteen  hundred 
passengers. 

The  Alaska  carries  a  crew  of  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  men,  including  oflScers,  sailors,  servants,  and  waiters. 
The  sailors  and  waiters  are  all  Chinese,  but  they  are 
admirably  trained  in  their  several  duties,  perfectly  quiet, 
and  ready  at  every  call  and  for  every  emergency.  We 
find  Captain  Howard  a  gentlemanly,  polite  ofiicer,  not 
only  looking  well  to  his  ship,  but  attending  as  well  to  the 
comfort  and  pleasure  of  his  passengers,  which  cannot  be 


32  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

said  of  all  captains  on  tlie  sea.  Captain  Horvard  com- 
bines humanity  witli  stern  discipline.  Each  morning 
and  evening  he  inspects  every  part  of  the  ship  from  stem 
to  stern,  \vith  the  keenest  eye,  to  see  that  everything  is 
going  on  right. 

After  passing  through  the  Golden  Gate  of  California, 
which  always  excites  some  interest,  occasionally  we  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  passengers.  We  find  on  l)oar<l 
the  Rev.  Mr.  McKil)ben  and  wife,  of  Ohio,  missionaries 
to  China ;  and  four  young  ladies,  all  missionaries,  some  on 
their  first  voyage, , others  returning  to  spheres  of  honored 
labor.  We  also  have  in  company  Mr.  Esendecker,  Ger- 
man consul  for  Yeddo,  Japan;  Mr.  Fowler,  of  the  House 
of  Commons,  England  ;  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Runnels,  of 
Boston,  who  intend  makins;  the  circuit  of  the  o-lobe :  and 
many  others  of  some  note.  It  took  us  some  two  or  three 
days  to  get  used  to  the  sea,  and  to  one  another,  and  to 
leain  each  other's  histories.  It  is  wonderful  what  an 
amount  of  information,  both  good  and  l)a(l,  in  regard  to 
one  another,  we  do  gather  up  in  the  course  of  a  few 
days.  Little  groups  began  to  form  and  ]3ass  occasionally 
hours  on  deck,  or  in  the  upper  saloon,  some  playing  at 
cards  and  other  games,  but  I  heard  not  as  many  sacred 
songs,  and  "Home,  Sweet  Home,"  sung,  as  on  some 
other  long  voyages;  but  before  reaching  port  they  were 
all  as  sociable  as  one  family. 

October  'Hd. — Weatlier  clear,  wind  west;  course  west- 
southwest;  latitude  37°  29^'  north,  longitude  125°  34' 
west.  Ship  ran  from  noon,  yesterday,  to  12  m.  to-day,  one 
hundred  and  sixty  miles.     Thermometc'r  ()4°. 


ON    THE   PACIFIC.  33 

October  8d. — Sabbath.  This  forenoon  divine  service 
was  administered  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  McKibben.  Weather 
clear,  wind  blowing  a  good  breeze  from  the  west ;  conrse 
west-southwest;  latitude  37°  21'  north,  longitude  129° 
12'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and 
seventy  six  miles.     Thermometer  66°. 

October  4:t7i.  —  Weather  clear,  wind  south;  course 
west-southwest;  latitude  37°  21^'  north,  longitude  132° 
54'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and 
seventy-six  miles.     Thermometer  70°. 

Yesterday  we  were  infoi'med  that  to-day  we  should 
meet  the  homeward-bound  steamer,  as  both  would  l)e 
sailing  on  the  same  parallel  of  latitude ;  accordingly  we 
had  a  large  number  of  letters  written  to  surprise  friends 
-at  home.  The  letters  were  duly  mailed^  postage  paid, 
€tc.,  and  all  day  we  were  eagerly  on  the  lookout  for  the 
steamer,  but  the  ship  never  made  her  apj^earance. 

October  btli. — Weather  clear,  wind  blowing  hard  from 
the  south  ;  course  west-southwest ;  latitude  37°  32'  north, 
longitnde  136°  19'  west.  Thermometer  60°.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  ojie  hundred  and  sixty-three  miles. 

October  6th. — Weather  clear,  wind  blowing  hard  from 
the  south,  accompanied  by  a  heavy  sea ;  course  west- 
southwest ;  latitude  37°  23'  north,  longitude  139°  18' 
west.  Distance  run,  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  forty-two 
miles.     Thermometer  65°. 

October  7tli. — Wind  fresh  from  the  south;  course 
west-southwest;  latitude  37°  21'  north,  longitude  142° 
37'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and 
iifty-eight  miles.     Thermometer  68°. 


34  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

October  SfJt. — Weather  overcast  and  rainy,  wind  west ; 
course  west-southwest ;  latitude  37°  10'  north,  longitude 
146°  8'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  handred 
and  sixty  miles.      Thermometer  50°. 

October  9tli. — Weather  clear,  wind  blowing  hard  from 
the  west;  course  west-southwest;  latitude  36°  59'  north, 
longitude  149°  25'  west.  Distance  mn,  up  to  12  m.,  one 
hundred  and  fiftv-seven  miles.     Thermometer  56°. 

October  10th. — Sabbath.  This  forenoon  we  have  di- 
vine service  administered  l)v  the  Rev.  Mr.  McKibben. 
Weather  clear,  wind  blowing  hard  ft'om  the  west;  course 
west-southwest;  latitude  36°  48'  north,  lono-itude  152° 
9'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and 
forty-eight  miles.     Thermometer  65°. 

October  iltJi. — Weather  stormy,  and  blowing  a  gale 
from  the  southwest ;  sea  ver}^  high ;  course  west-south- 
west;  latitude  35°  33'  north,  longitude  155°  8'  west. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
miles.     Thermometer  65°. 

October  12th. — Weather  clear,  wind  blowing  a  gale 
from  the  southwest,  accompanied  by  a  heavy  cross-sea ; 
course  west-southwest;  latitude  35°  11'  north,  longitude 
157°  33'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred 
and  ten  miles.     Thermometer  62°. 

October  IStJt. — Weather  clear,  with  continuation  of 
the  southwest  gale ;  heavy  sea  running,  and  ship  labor- 
ing hard;  latitude  35°  13'  north,  longitude  159°  13'  west. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  six  miles. 
Thermometer  65°.     Course  west-southwest. 

October  l-lth. — Weather  clear,  wind  southwest ;    the 


ON   THE   PACIFIC.  35 

gale  is  so  violent  and  the  sea  so  liigli,  that  the  topsail- 
yards  and  light  spars  are  lowered  on  deck,  to  relieve  the 
ship  from  laboring  so  hard  in  making  head  against  the 
gale  and  heavy  sea.  Thermometer  64°.  Latitude  34° 
25'  north,  longitude  1G1°  36'  west.  Distance  run,  \\])  to 
12  M.,  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  miles.  Course 
west-southwest. 

Ocfoher  15 fh. — Weather  clear.  The  southwest  gale, 
which  has  been  blowing  so  fearfully  for  the  last  ninety 
hours,  is  gradually  subsiding.  Course  west-southwest ; 
latitude  33°  25'  north,  longitude  163°  25'  west.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles.  Ther- 
mometer 70°,  The  sailors  have  been  engaged  all  day 
sending  aloft  the  ship's  topsail-yards,  which  were  brought 
on  deck  yesterday, 

October  IQth. — Weather  clear.  Thermometer  70°. 
Wind  fi'esh  from  the  southwest ;  course  west-southwest ; 
latitude  33°  7'  north,  longitude  166°  53'  west.  Distance, 
run,  up  to  12  ]\r.,  one  hundred  and  forty-nine  miles. 

October  11th. — Sabbath.  We  have  divine  service  on 
board,  administered  in  the  Episcopal  form,  by  Mr.  Fow- 
ler, a  member  of  the  English  House  of  Commons,  and 
preaching  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  McKibben.  Weather  clear. 
Thermometer  72°.  Wind  fresh  from  the  southwest; 
course  west-southwest;  latitude  32°  27'  north,  longitude 
169°  31'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred 
and  forty-two  miles. 

October  IS fJi. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  southwest, 
with  a  heavy  cross-sea.  Thermometer  80°,  Course  west- 
southwest ;   latitude   31°  04'  north,  lonc^itude  172°  55' 


36  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  liunclred  and  sev- 
enty-five miles. 

October  19th. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  fresli  from 
tlie  soutliwest.  Tliermometer  80°.  Course  west-south- 
west;  latitude  30°  51'  north,  longitude  176°  5'  west. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  sixty-nine 
miles. 

Octoher  20t]i. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  fresh  from 
the  southwest;  course  west-southwest.  Thermometer 
71°.  Latihide  30°  51'  north,  longitude  179°  29'  west. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  seventy-six 
miles. 

Octoher  226/. — To-day  we  passed  through  an  experi- 
ence that  I  never  expect  to  verify  again,  and  novel  to 
most  of  the  passengers,  which  occurs  only  on  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  It  was  droj^ping  a  day  out  of  the  calendar.  We 
retired  to  our  beds  as  usual,-  and  fell  asleep  on  Wednes- 
day night,  the  20th ;  when  we  awoke  the  next  morning 
we  found,  by  the  shij^'s  log,  that  it  was  Friday,  the  22d, 
We  were  not  without  warnino;  of  this  stransre  coinci- 
deuce,  for  it  had  been  a  matter  of  speculation  for  several 
days  before,  when  we  should  pass  over  the  one  hundred 
and  eightieth  degree  of  longitude.  If  we  had  crossed  the 
meridian  two  days  later,  a  Sunday  would  have  been 
blotted  out  as  thouo-h  we  had  not  lived  it. 

Every  one  should  know  that,  in  traveling  around  the 
world  from  east  to  west,  a  day  is  absolutely  lost  from 
the  calendai".  If  it  were  j^ossible  for  one  to  go  around 
the  world  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  retain  the  same 
relative  position  to  the  sun,  he  would  travel  with  the 


ON    THE  PACIFIC.  37- 

sun,  and  there  would  \)e  no  loss  or  gain  of  time  ;  but,  by- 
traveling  more  leisurely  westward,  a  certain  amount  of 
time  is  added  to  each,  day,  which,  in  makino-  the  entire 
circuit  of  the  earth,  causes  a  loss  of  one  day  from  the 
calendar  at  some  point  in  the  journey,  as  if  we  had  not 
lived  it,  virtually  leaving  but  three  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  days  in  the  year. 

The  question  arose,  "  Where  shall  the  change  of  time 
be  made  in  dropping  the  day  ? "  Navigators  have  an- 
swered this  question  by  making  the  change  on  the  one 
hundred  and  eightieth  degree  of  longitude  west,  or  east 
from  Greenwich  or  London,  which  is  practically  the  same 
thing.  When  they  reach  this  meridian  sailing  westward, 
they  drop  a  day,  and  when  they  reach  it  sailing  east- 
ward they  gain  a  day.  There  is  no  other  point  or  line 
on  the  world's  surface  so  favorable  for  making  the  change 
in  reckoning,  for  dropping  or  adding  a  day,  as  that  point 
which  has  been  taken  by  the  English  and  American 
navigators,  the  one  hundred  and  eightieth  degree  of 
longitude.  This  line  falls  in  the  middle  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  where  there  are  no  inhabitants  to  be  affected  by 
the  change,  excepting  on  some  scattered  islands.  For 
instance,  according  to  the  true  method  of  time,  while 
Saturday  is  kept  on  the  one  side  of  the  meridian  line  of 
one  hundred  and  eighty  degrees  longitude  upon  the  scat- 
tered islands,  Sunday  is  observed  on  the  other  side ;  and 
dropping  a  day  from  the  calendar  brought  us  in  har- 
mony with  the  time  kept  in  Japan,  England,  and  New 
York. 

Our  life  on  the  Pacific  is  somewhat  monotonous.   Not 


38  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

a  sail  of  any  kind  lias  been  seen  since  leaving  tlie  Golden 
Gate  of  California,  except  that  on  the  first  day  out  we 
saw  two  vessels  going  into  port.  But  flocks  of  strange 
birds,  with  wings  at  least  four  feet  from  tip  to  tip,  fol- 
lowed us  for  several  days,  picking  up  the  crumbs  thrown 
from  the  table,  at  last  giving  up  the  chase. 

Our  meals  were  served  with  the  utmost  regularity, 
and  all  the  waiters  were  Chinese  boys,  quick  of  per- 
ception, cheerful  in  their  services,  and  quiet  as  lambs. 
Those  who  turn  out  early  in  the  morning  can  get  coffee 
from  sev^en  to  eight  o'clock ;  at  nine  a  substantial  break- 
fast is  served,  lunch  at  one,  dinner  at  six,  and  tea  at 
eight ;  l)ut,  with  the  thermometer  from  70°  to  80°,  it  is 
pretty  hard  to  respond  to  all  the  calls  of  the  gong.  To- 
day the  weather  is  clear,  and  ^vind  fresh  from  the  south- 
west. Thermometer  82°.  Course  west-southwest;  lati- 
tude 30°  8'  north,  hmgitude  176°  29'  east.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  nine  miles. 

October  23d. — Weather  clear^  and  w^ind  fresh  from 
the  southwest.  Thermometer  82°.  Course  west-south- 
west; latitude  30°  12'  north,  longitude  l72°  35'  east. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  three  miles. 

October  24:th. — Weather  stormy,  and  wind  blowing  a 
gale  from  the  southwest,  accompanied  by  thunder  and 
lightning,  and  heavy  sea  running.  Thermometer  80°. 
Course  west-southwest;  latitude  30°  22'  north,  longitude 
168°  13'  east.  Distance  ruu,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred 
and  ninety-two  miles.  This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  had 
preaching  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  McKibben. 

October  2Uli. — Weather  clear,  and  the  wind  blowing 


ON    THE   PACIFIC.  39 

hard  from  the  west.  Tliermometer  79°.  Course  west- 
southwest;  latitude  29°  51'  north,  longitude  165°  58' 
east.  Distance  run,  u|)  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
four  miles. 

October  26th. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  l)lowing  hard 
from  the  northwest.  Thermometer  80°.  Course  west- 
southwest;  latitude  29°  47'  north,  longitude  161°  57' 
east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  t^vo  hundred  and  ten 
miles. 

October  27th. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  blowing  hard 
from  the  southeast.  Thermometer  84°.  Latitude  29°  54' 
north,  longitude  157°  29'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m., 
two  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles. 

October  2^th. — Weather  clear,  and  the  wind  blowinof 
hard  from  the  west,  with  heavy  sea.  Thermometer  81°. 
Latitude  30°  30'  north,  longitude  153°  49'  east.  Dis- 
tance run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  ninety- three 
miles, 

October  2{)th. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  fresh  from 
the  southwest.  Thermometer  82°.  Course  west-south- 
west; latitude  31°  14'  north,  longitude  150°  12'  east. 
Distance  run,  uj:)  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  ninety  one 
miles. 

October  QOth. — Weather  clear,  wHnd  west  -  by  -  north 
and  fresh,  with  moderate  sea.  Thermometer  80°.  Course 
west-southwest;  latitude  32°  28'  north,  lono-itude  145° 
5'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and 
twenty-nine  miles. 

October  31st. — Weather  clear,  and  the  wind  blowing 
a  gale  from  the  northwest,  with  heavy  sea.     Thermome- 


40  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

ter  74°.  Course  nortliwest ;  latitude  33°  54'  nortli,  longi- 
tude 141°  43'  east.  Distance  run,  u]3  to  12  m.,  two  hun- 
dred and  tliirtv-six  miles. 

November  \8t. — In  consequence  of  adverse  winds  and 
heavy  weather,  ^\"e  have  been  thirty-one  days  making  the 
passage  across  the  North  Pacific,  while  an  ordinary  passage 
is  only  twenty-two  days.  But  I  have  been  at  sea  when 
the  sight  of  land  was  far  more  welcome,  for  this  voyage 
was  upon  a  summer  sea,  and  under  sunny  skies  nearly 
all  the  way,  and  the  time  has  passed  pleasantly  on  ship- 
board. As  a  rule,  ships  in  crossing  over  the  l^ortli  Pa- 
cific Ocean  do  not  run  as  fast  as  those  crossins;  the  At- 
lantic ;  but  the  economy  of  coal  for  a  voyage  of  five 
thousand  miles  is  a  serious  consideration,  when  at  least 
some  thirteen  hundred  tons  have  to  be  provided  for  the 
voyage,  and,  if  by  any  accident  or  detention  the  supply 
should  run  short,  there  is  no  intermediate  coaling-station 
at  which  we  could  stop  on  this  vast  expanse  of  water, 
upon  which  we  never  caught  sight  of  a  sail,  or  craft  of 
any  description,  after  we  got  clear  of  the  coast  of  Cali- 
fornia, and  the  engine  never  stopped,  nor  lost  a  single 
revolution,  for  the  space  of  thirty-one  days. 

The  Pacific  sea  promised,  Avhen  leaving  San  Fran- 
cisco, that  we  should  have  a  quick  and  smooth  passage ; 
learned  doctors  of  divinity,  and  American  and  English 
statesmen,  indorsed  the  assurance  that  the  passage  would 
be  made  in  less  than  twenty-two  days ;  that  after  we  got 
through  and  away  from  the  Golden  Gate  of  California 
we  should  have  the  Pacific  all  serene.  We  did  get  clear 
of  the  Gate  and  across  the  bar  in  the  most  pacific  way, 


ON   THE  PACIFIC.  41 

and  for  one  or  two  days  all  was  gentle  and  mild ;  but, 
for  the  next  twenty-eight  days,  we  had  a  succession  of 
crops  of  white  foam,  and  our  noble  ship,  the  Alaska,  was 
oftener  on  her  beam-ends  than  on  her  keel. 

As  we  approached  the  coast  of  Japan,  we  ran  through 
a  school  of  whales,  playfully  disporting  themselves  in 
the  waters ;  soon  after  we  were  enterino-  the  harbor  of 
Yokohama,  the  principal  port  of  Japan,  in  which  ves- 
sels of  all  nations,  both  men-of-war  and  merchantmen, 
were  anchored  in  the  bay.  The  Stars-and-Stripes  were 
floatino;  to  the  breeze,  from  the  mastheads  of  a  number 
of  ships.  The  firing  of  the  ship's  gun,  and  the  drop- 
ping of  the  anchor,  brought  around  us  a  number  of 
boats,  all  propelled  with  sculls  by  the  natives,  both  men 
and  women;  some  of  them  were  loaded  with  people 
looking  after  friends  on  board,  and  others  came  to  take 
on  shore  the  passengers.  The  excitement  and  confusion 
were  so  great  that  Ave  were  at  a  loss  to  know  what  boat 
to  take ;  but,  at  length,  the  proprietor  or  runner  of  the 
Grand  Hotel  solicited  our  company,  when  we  piled  in 
our  luggage  and  took  passage  for  the  shore — about  three 
hundred  yards  distant  from  the  ship  —  for  which  he 
charged  two  dollars  a  passenger  for  about  ten  minutes' 
work.  We  were  afterward  informed  that  the  regular 
fare  was  only  ten  cents  a  passenger.  After  our  luggage 
had  been  examined  by  the  custom-house  officials,  we 
made  our  way  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  and,  looking  at  the 
rooms  which  we  proposed  to  occupy,  we  were  informed 
that  the  board  was  six  dollars  a  day  for  each  person.  I 
said  to  Mr.  Smith,  the  proprietor  of  the  house,  that  we 


42  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

had  no  fault  to  find  witli  the  rooms  selected,  but  that 
we  were  from  a  land  of  civilization,  and  expected  to  pay 
full  value  for  whatever  we  received,  but,  thinking  that 
his  fare  was  entirely  too  high,  and  that  we  should  take 
up  our  abode  in  the  International  Hotel,  only  a  few  rods 
farther  west,  and  equally  as  good  if  not  a  better  house, 
we  accordingly  made  a  movement  to  leave,  when  he  of- 
fered to  take  us  for  three  dollars  per  day,  which  is  the 
ordinary  price  in  all  the  first-class  houses  in  Yokohama. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

EXCURSIONS      IN     JAPAN. 

November  '2d. — Yokohama  is  divided  into  three  parts. 
The  commercial  district — where  we  landed — was  built, 
and  is  occu]3ied  principally,  by  English  merchants.  There 
are  no  wharves,  but  a  wide  street  extending  over  a  mile 
along  the  water,  on  the  shore-side  of  which  the  foreign 
merchants  have  their  bungalows  and  offices;  some  of 
these  have^fine  gardens,  surrounded  with  walls,  and  the 
yards  ornamented  with  Oriental  shrubbery  and  flowers. 
The  high  bluffs  to  the  left  form  another  section  of  the 
city,  where  many  of  the  merchants  reside.  From  this 
beautiful  elevation  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  harbor  is 
obtained.  The  Oriental  section  is  more  in  the  back- 
ground, where  the  Japanese  as  a  people  keep  to  them- 
selves, and  seem  to  be  quiet  and  inoffensive. 

November  Scl — This  morning  early,  in  company  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Runnels,  and  Mr.  Otto,  we  leave  by  the 
cars  for  Yeddo,  distance  twenty-four  miles,  fare  one  dol- 
lar. This  railroad  was  built  as  an  experiment  by  an 
English  company  for  the  Japanese,  and  was  the  first 
road  operated  in  the  empire.  On  reaching  Yeddo,  each 
one  of  our  pai'ty  was  mounted  in  a  small  vehicle  called 
gin-riki-sha,  in  which  there  is  only  room  for  one  person, 
and  is  di^awn  by  a  coolie,  who  could  make  as  good  time 


44  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

over  the  smootli  streets  as  a  pony.  We  also  procured  a 
guide  wlio  had  been  trained  for  the  route,  and  who 
spoke  English  sufficient  to  be  understood.  We  at  first 
drove  to  see  the  American  minister,  who  has  his  resi- 
dence in  the  city  of  Yeddo,  and  who  furnished  us  with 
such  passes  as  we  required  to  go  over  the  city  and  visit 
the  institutions. 

The  city  of  Tokio,  formerly  Yeddo,  is  some  nine  miles 
lono"  and  eio^ht  miles  wide.  About  one-eis:hth  of  the 
city's  area  is  occupied  by  canals  and  the  moats  of  the 
castle.  The  city  fronts  on  a  large  and  spacious  bay  of 
the  same  name,  but  the  water  is  too  shallow  to  admit 
the  largest  ships,  and  those  engaged  in  foreign  trade 
found  that  they  could  do  business  better  in  Yokohama, 
at  which  place  their  cargoes  are  discharged  on  lighters 
and  taken  to  Tokio.  The  castle  is  in  the  centre  of  the 
city.  We  rode  around  its  walls.  It  consists  of  a  central 
citadel,  and  a  large  area  of  land,  within  strong  earthen 
embankments  planted  with  trees  and  faced  with  heavy 
stone-walls,  over  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  built  in  a  man- 
ner well  fitted  to  resist  earthquakes  and  land-slides,  to 
which  the  country  is  subjected. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  temj^les  in  the  city,  be- 
longing chiefly  to  the  numerous  Buddhist  sects.  The 
.  two  principal  religions  of  Japan  are  the  Buddhist  and 
the  Shinto  (doctrine  of  the  gods).  The  former  is  the 
popular,  and  the  latter  appears  to  be  the  official  religion. 
There  are  also  a  great  number  of  Buddhist  monasteries, 
and  a  few  nunneries,  in  the  city.  The  population  of 
Tokio,  or  Yeddo,  is  reported  to  be  over  one  million  souls. 


EXCURSIONS  IN  JAPAN.  45 

It  will  be  remembered  that  Yeddo  was  founded  by 
IjT'eyasu,  tlie  fii'st  sliogun  of  the  Tokugawa  line.  While 
Yeddo  was  the  shogun's,  Kioto  was  the  mikado's  capital. 
The  last  shogun  abdicated  in  1857,  at  which  time  the 
office  was  abolished,  and  the  name  of  Yeddo  passed  away 
with  that  of  shogun,  the  designation  of  the  city  being 
changed  to  Tokio,  or  Eastern  Capital.  The  mikado,  or 
emperor,  took  up  his  residence  in  it,  and  it  is  now  the 
capital  of  the  empire. 

We,  in  our  gm-riki-shas^  were  drawn  from  temple  to 
temple  with  great  rapidity.  We  paid  the  coolies  well, 
occasionally  giving  them  a  little  backshish  to  keep  up 
their  courage.  The  temples  of  Tokio  tower  above  all 
the  other  buildings  of  the  city.  The  houses  and  shops 
are  all  built  low,  only  from  one  to  two  stories,  so  that 
they  may  not  have  far  to  fall  in  case  of  earthquakes, 
which  are  frequent.  The  first  temple  that  we  entered 
was  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  high.  The  architecture  was 
purely  Oriental  and  imposing,  and  the  interior  far  more 
beautiful  and  in  better  taste  than  I  expected  to  find  it, 
from  the  weather-beaten  appearance  of  the  exterior.  We 
next  drove  to  Atangoreama,  which  is  located  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  city  upon  a  high  bluff,  reached  by  a  long  flight 
of  stone  steps,  about  one  hundred  in  all.  From  this  bluff 
we  obtained  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  and  overlooked  the 
castle  or  palace  of  the  tycoon.  The  castle  stands  upon 
high  ground,  strongly  fortified,  with  walled  terraces  and 
deep,  wide  moats,  seemingly  almost  impregnable  to  any 
attack;  and  a  drive  along  the  castle-walls,  and  moats 
filled  with  water,  is  one  of  the  great  attractions  of  Tokio. 


46  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

We  also  visited  Stago  Yama,  anotlier  elevated  spot, 
■wlience  we  obtained  a  magnificent  view  of  the  shipping 
in  the  harbor,  and  the  tops  of  the  temples.  The  summit 
of  this  mount  is  reached  by  two  flights  of  steps — one  to 
the  right  for  gentlemen,  and  one  to  the  left  for  ladies. 
The  mount  is  adorned  with  large  shade-trees,  from  ap- 
pearance a  hundred  years  old.  This  city  originally  was 
built  on  a  plain,  and  these  high  mounds,  looming  up 
over  every  other  object,  are  artificial,  the  earth  having 
been  brought  into  the  city  by  hand-labor,  and  raised  up 
to  beautify  the  place, 

Yeddo,  or  Tokio,  is  not  an  ancient  city.  Its  site  be- 
came historic  when  Yamato  Dake,  in  the  second  century 
of  our  era,  marched  to  conquer  the  eastern  tribes.  In 
later  times  the  Mimamonto  chieftains  subdued  the  plains 
of  the  Kuanto,  and,  until  the  twelfth  century,  the  region 
around  the  bay  of  Yeddo  was  wikl,  uncivilized,  and 
with  few  inhabitants. 

This  being  the  mikado's  birthday,  there  was  a  great 
display  of  flags ;  every  house  and  store  was  decorated, 
music  was  heard  in  every  part  of  the  city,  and  in  all  the 
temples  they  were  praying  to  their  gods  —  that  is,  if 
beating  on  drums,  to  awaken  the  spirits  of  those  whom 
they  propose  to  worship),  can  be  called  praying ;  others 
came  from  behind  a  curtain  and  eno*ao;ed  in  what  is 
called  the  sacred  dance,  cutting  up  all  kinds  of  antics ; 
and  yet,  in  the  way  it  was  performed,  it  seemed  solemn 
and  devout. 

We  visited  the  Asakusa  Temple,  which  is  the  most 
popular  in  Tokio,  if  not  the  most  celebrated  in  Japan. 


EXCURSIONS   IN  JAPAN.  47 

The  approacli  to  this  temple  is  through  an  avenue  lined 
on  both  sides  with  a  great  variety  of  toy-shops  and 
booths,  filled  with  all  sorts  of  gay  ornaments  for  sale. 
Behind  these  booths  are  small  shrines  and  temples.  At 
the  end  of  the  avenue  is  a  large  gate,  through  which  we 
entered,  when  we  came  to  a  huge  red  building  called 
the  temple.  We  noticed  in  ^^assing  through  the  gate 
two  colossal  gods,  or  demons,  in  niches  behind  iron 
screens,  who  are  the  guardians  of  the  gate :  one  is  ever 
ready  to  welcome  the  man  who  repents  and  endeavors 
to  reform ;  the  other  is  pleased  when  children  are  born 
who  will  become  good  men.  Entering  the  court-yard  of 
the  temple,  flocks  of  pigeons  are  seen,  for  whose  benefit 
women  sell  rice  and  peas  in  little  earthen  pots,  which 
worshipers  buy  as  an  act  of  piety  and  cast  to  the  sacred 
fowls.  To  the  left,  in  a  stall,  is  seen  the  albino  pony, 
sacred  to  Kuanon,  to  whose  honor  the  temple  was  built. 
The  pony  is  also  fed  by  pious  contributions.  Within 
the  door  of  the  temple  is  a  large  bronze  incense-burner, 
on  which  are  the  twelve  signs  of  the  zodiac.  In  front 
of  the  large  contribution-box,  around  the  altar,  several 
were  kneeling  in  prayer  to  their  gods ;  this  altar  is  richly 
adorned  with  gilt  images,  and  lighted.  The  ceilings  and 
walls  are  covered  with  specimens  of  the  sacred  paintings 
of  the  Japanese  Buddhistic  art.  Angels,  gods,  and  heroes 
are  represented,  and  numerous  tablets  are  hung  upon 
the  walls. 

There  are  a  large  numbei'  of  subordinate  temples, 
shrines,  and  images,  within  the  temple-grounds ;  a  pa- 
goda, a  hall  of  services,  an  octagon  temple,  with  several 


48  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

hundred  small  idols  in  it,  many  tea-booths,  a  curious 
rude  theatre,  and  many  other  attractions  to  the  stranger. 
We  also  saw  many  representations  of  animals,  life-size, 
of  all  kinds,  and  very  imj^erfect  in  construction  —  the 
most  hideous-looking  images  I  ever  witnessed.  In  these 
temples  they  expect  a  fee  for  admission,  which  is  left  en- 
tirely to  the  generosity  of  the  visitor. 

The  temj^le  of  the  five  hundred  sages,  or  disciples  of 
Buddha,  is  most  interesting.  On  entering  the  first  build- 
ing we  saw  on  the  floor,  near  the  main  entrance,  an 
image  having  three  eyes,  horns  in  the  back,  long  hair 
like  a  woman's,  and  hoofs  like  a  horse.  In  the  second 
building,  from  a  floor  of  earth  rises  a  colossal  throne  of 
water- worn  bowlders  of  volcanic  rock,  and  masses  of  lava, 
on  which  stands  a  large  gilt  image  of  Buddha,  the 
founder  of  their  religion.  On  one  side  of  him  appears 
the  representation  of  an  elephant,  and  on  the  other  that 
of  a  lion;  on  his  right  stands  Kasha,  his  best  disciple, 
who  collected  all  the  discourses  and  remembered  say- 
ings of  his  master,  and  formed  the  original  Buddhist 
canon.  On  his  left  stands  Anan,  who  was  gifted  with 
a  wonderful  memory :  he  remembered  all  that  his  mas- 
ter said  and  taught.  The  number  of  original  disciples 
of  Buddha  was  sixteen ;  and  these  five  hundred  were 
later  converts,  who  devoted  themselves  to  the  priesthood 
and  became  missionaries,  and  who  propagated  Buddhism 
in  the  upper  provinces.  Most  of  them  are  portrayed  in 
attitudes  of  meditation,  some  purifying  their  bodies. 
All  have  shaven  heads  and  priestly  robes,  and  some  are 
alorned  with  their  symbols  of  office — staff,  scroll,  keys, 


EXCURSIONS   m  JAPAN.  49 

etc.     Immediately  inside  the  railing,   to   the  left,  is  a 
dark-colored  image  of  Ema,  the  lord  and  judge  of  hell. 

JSfovemher  4.th. — On  our  return  to  Yokohama  we  de- 
voted some  time  to  visiting  the  Oriental  shops  where 
they  have  for  sale  many  curiosities  of  their  own  handi- 
work, such  as  ivory  toys,  paintings  on  silk  cloth,  lacquer- 
ware,  and  many  other  small  articles,  all  of  which  they 
are  most  eager  to  sell  to  strangers.  Many  of  the  shop- 
keepers in  Yokohama  can  speak  enough  broken  English 
to  be  understood,  and  those  who  cannot  call  in  an  in- 
terpreter. 

The  money  in  use  among  foreigners  at  Yokohama 
consists  of  Mexican  and  American  trade  -  dollars  and 
bank-notes.  For  small  change  the  Jaj)anese  silver,  paper, 
and  copper  currency  is  universally  used.  The  Japanese 
coins  and  denominations  are  as  follows,  viz. :  copper 
cash  is  the  one-tenth  part  of  a  copper  cent,  or,  as  called 
here,  sen,'  twenty-five  sens  make  one  bu,  fifty  sens  make 
two  bu,  and  one  hundred  sens  four  bu. 

Novennber  bth. — This  morning  early,  in  company  with 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Runnels,  and  Mr.  Otto,  some  of  our  ship- 
mates, we  start  upon  an  excursion  out  into  the  interior 
of  the  country.  We  rode  in  small  gin-rihi-shafi^  drawn 
by  two  coolies.  We  took  our  cook  and  eatables  with 
us,  and  were  gone  for  two  days  and  one  night,  passing 
through  deep  ravines,  and  over  mountain-tops,  dotted 
with  towns  and  cities.  Every  foot  of  the  land  that 
could  be  worked  was  under  the  highest  state  of  cultiva- 
tion, one  tier  of  rice  and  cotton  fields  rising  above  an- 
other, by  a  slight  gradation,  and  farther  up  on  the  sides 


50 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


of  tlie  mountains  vegetation  was  seen  in  perfection. 
As  we  passed  tlirougli  tlie  numerous  villages,  we  were 
constantly  greeted  witli  the  cry — from  men,  women,  and 
children — "  O-ha-yo  ? "  meaning  "  How  are  you  ? "  We 
stopped  at  Kamakura,  wliich  was  formerly  the  political 
capital  of  Japan.     Every  spot  of  ground  in  an<l  around 


DALBUTZ. 


Kamakura  is  classic  to  the  Japanese,  and  the  great  hulk 
of  the  vast  store  of  the  Japanese  histories  and  historical 
romances  have  their  chief  scenes  laid  in  or  near  Kama- 
kura. The  city  is  said  to  have  contained  at  one  period 
two  hundred  thousand  houses,  but  very  little  remains 
to-day  to  attest  its  former  greatness.     Heavy  forest-trees 


EXCURSIONS   IN  JAPAN.  52 

now  cover  the  ground  upon  wliicli  the  ancient  city  stood, 
and  where  scores,  if  not  hundreds,  of  battles  have  been 
fought,  and  streams  of  blood  have  flowed.  The  chief 
place  of  interest  is  the  temple,  which  stands  on  a  lofty 
plateau,  reached  by  a  high  flight  of  stone  steps ;  in  front 
of  the  temple  stands  a  canopy,  used  on  festival  occasions 
by  musicians  and  sacred  dancers.  About  one  mile  from 
Kamakura  we  enter  the  village  of  Hasemura,  near  which 
stands  the  famous  bronze  image  of  Buddha.  The  ap- 
proach to  it  is  through  a  very  beautiful  avenue,  over- 
hung with  evergreens.  This  image  is  the  largest  in  tlie 
world,  being  forty-four  feet  high  and  of  good  propor- 
tions. The  material  is  said  to  be  an  alloy  of  copper, 
with  a  slight  mixture  of  gold.  We  had  the  curiosity  to 
go  inside,  where  there  are  numerous  gilt  idols  worshiped 
by  the  Japanese.  On  leaving  this  the  greatest  of  all 
images,  we  soon  approached  the  sea-shore,  along  which  we 
were  obliged  to  walk,  through  the  deep  sand,  some  two 
or  three  miles,  to  relieve  our  coolies,  who  by  the  day's 
journey  were  much  fatigued.  When  we  came  to  solid 
ground  we  again  mounted  our  gin-rihi-sJias,  and  rode  till 
we  came  to  the  village  of  Enoshima,  where  we  stopped 
overnight.  It  was  quite  dark  on  our  arrival  in  this  an- 
cient town,  to  which  we  had  to  ascend  from  the  sandy 
shore,  through  a  narrow  street,  over  numerous  stone 
steps,  till  we  came  to  the  inn,  or  what  is  commonly  called 
a  tea-house.  When  the  inmates  saw  us  coming  up  the 
steps,, they  ran  out  to  welcome  us,  and  on  entering  the 
upper  chamber  we  were  politely  requested  by  the  head 
of  the  house  to  pull  off  our  boots,  which  is  one  of  the 


52  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

marked  customs  of  tlie  country.  Everything  was  per- 
fectly neat  and  clean,  but  there  was  not  a  particle  of 
furniture  in  tlie  rooms.  During  our  sojourn  tliey  treated 
us  with  marked  attention  and  cordiality,  laughing,  and 
in  good-humor  trying  to  entertain  in  the  best  possible 
way ;  and  yet  we  could  not  speak  a  word  of  their  lan- 
guage, but  by  the  art  of  pantomime  we  managed  to  get 
what  we  required.  When  bedtime  had  arrived,  quilts 
were  S23read  upon  the  bare  floor ;  we  being  fatigued  by 
the  day's  journey,  the  night's  repose  was  quite  as  com- 
fortable as  in  a  first-class  hotel. 

November  Qth. — This  morning  we  rose  early,  and  after 
breakfast  prepared  by  our  cook,  and  paying  our  bills, 
we  took  a  stroll  over  the  island.  We  visited  the  fancy 
stores,  and  the  numerous  temples  and  shrines.  Eno- 
shima  is  only  an  island  at  high  tide ;  at  low  water  it  is 
a  peninsula.  It  is  heavily  timbered,  and  clothed  with 
dense  masses  of  evergreen  foliage.  There  is  a  story  to 
the  eff'ect  that,  in  ancient  times,  there  were  five  huge 
dragons  living  in  the  marshes  of  the  island,  and  no  man 
had  the  courage  to  approach  them.  Many  people  were 
devoured,  and  one  rich  man  lost  all  his  children,  who 
were  eaten  by  the  monsters.  After  the  power  of  the 
protecting  goddess  had  sprung  up  on  the  island,  the 
dragons  ceased  their  ravages. 

Passing  over  the  high  lands  of  the  island,  a  beautiful 
view  of  the  sea  is  obtained.  As  we  follow  the  path,  we 
come  to  a  deep  gorge  in  the  rocks,  and  farther  on  pass 
shell-booths  on  either  side ;  and  in  a  short  time  we  de- 
scend the  high  embankment  upon  the  sea-shore  and  see 


EXCURSIONS   IN  JAPAN 


53 


the  cave,  wliicli  only  can  be  reached  at  a  low  stage  of 
the  tide. 

On  leaving  the  island  we  return  by  another  road  than 
that  by  which  we  came.  The  first  village  is  Katase,  in- 
habited by  fishermen,  and  is  not  noted  for  cleanliness. 
It  contains  a  Buddhist  temple,  and  several  small  shrines, 


FUSI  TAMA. 


for  which  the  entire  country  is  noted;  they  may  be  seen 
in  the  rice  and  cotton  fields,  and  even  along  the  road- 
side. We  are  now  in  close  proximity  to  the  great  vol- 
cano Fusi  Yama,  the  sacred  mountain  of  fire,  the  j^ride 
and  glory  of  Japan,  which  the  Japanese,  as  by  a  sense 
of  religious  duty,  put  in  every  picture  and  on  every 
article  that  they  manufacture.      Fusi  Yama  is  not  in 


54 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


a  state  of  eruption,  but  the  volcano,  looming  up  over 
fourteen  thousand  feet,  can  be  seen  at  sea  in  a  clear  day 
nearly  one  hundred  miles. 

After  leaving  Katase  we  soon  pass  over  a  beautiful 
little  river.  Nearly  all  the  streams  in  Japan  have  their 
source  in  the  mountains,  falling  down  gorges  and  steep 
inclines  to  the  sea.  At  noon  we  stopped  at  Totsuka, 
where,  according  to  arrangement,  we  met  our  coolies, 


>   "  '/.'; 


"^ii^m^^mmms^m- 


JAPANESE  GIRLS 


^ijiUli"  IVv' 


who  went  in  advance  to  make  preparations  for  dinner, 
and  had  the  table  spread  out.  The  tea-house  in  which 
we  took  lunch  was  clean,  and  the  coolie  gii4s  in  attend- 
ance rather  pretty.  Most  of  the  country-houses  are  one 
story  high,  with  straw-thatched  roofs ;  they  have  open 
fronts,  and  for  window-glass  is  substituted  rice-paper. 
As  we  passed  through  the  farming  districts,  we  saw 
scores  of  the  natives  working  in  the  rice  and  cotton  fields 
as  naked  as  when  born.     The  women  had  on  some  cloth- 


EXCURSIONS  m  JAPAN.  55 

ing,  but  were  bareheaded  and  barefooted.  When  work- 
ing in  the  fields  or  shops  they  carry  their  babes  in  sacks, 
fastened  by  a  strap  on  their  backs. 

In  every  city  and  hamlet  through  which  we  passed 
Buddhist  temples  or  shrines  may  be  seen,  and  in  every 
temple  are  images,  caudles,  bells,  drums,  books,  and  a 
variety  of  altar  ornaments.  In  front  of  the  temples  are 
usually  two  huge  red  images — the  one  hates  evil,  and 
the  other  welcomes  2:ood.  Sandals  are  often  huna;  be- 
fore  them  by  devotees  who  are  anxious  to  walk  the  strict 
path  of  virtue,  or  those  having  sore  feet;  these  j)ious 
worshipers  often  fling  balls  of  chewed  paper  at  them :  if 
the  balls  stick  to  the  image  the  omen  is  good,  and  their 
prayers  are  answered.  We  occasionally,  in  some  of  the 
larger  towns,  see  a  Shinto  temple,  where  devotees  wor- 
ship the  Shinto  gods,  and  live  in  fear  and  reverence  of 
the  memories  of  the  dead. 

Buddhism  in  Japan  was  introduced  from  India, 
through  China  and  Corea,  five  hundred  years  after  the 
Christian  era,  and  in  India  six  hundred  years  before 
Christ.  They  worship  Buddha,  and  a  host  of  deceased 
men,  and  pray  to  a  vast  number  of  saints ;  they  believe 
in  progressive  states  of  future  reward  and  j)unishmeut, 
and  are  influenced  in  their  actions  by  the  fears  and  hopes 
of  the  world  to  come. 

Just  l^efore  reaching  Yokohama,  but  within  its  pre- 
cincts, we  passed  by  the  execution-ground,  where  crimi- 
nals are  beheaded  for  murder,  burglary,  and  often  for 
smaller  crimes.  The  grounds  were  large,  and  surrounded 
by  a  high  fence,  giving  them  a  very  gloomy  appearance. 


56  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

November  ^th. — ^This  being  the  Sahbath,  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Ballagh,  missionary,  formerly  of  New  Jersey,  called 
to  see  me,  with  whom  I  attended  the  Reformed  Church. 
The  edifice  is  new  and  recently  finished,  neat  in  its  con- 
struction, and  will  seat  about  four  hundred.  The  na- 
tives keep  no  sabbath;  but  they  have  many  sacred, 
days  and  holidays  on  which  they  hold  their  religious 
festivals. 

November  SfJi. — To-day  I  called  on  the  Rev.  J.  H. . 
Ballagh,  who  kindly  showed  me  through  the  missionary 
buildings,  and  the  new  seminary  erected  for  the  native 
young  ladies.  This  fine  edifice  is  situated  on  the  blufif 
overhanging  the  city  of  Yokohama,  and  affords  a  most 
beautiful  and  interesting  panoramic  view  of  the  harbor, 
filled  as  it  is  with  vessels  of  different  nations  and  of 
every  rig.  This  female  seminary  was  built  by  American 
contributions,  in  which  the  Sabbath-school  of  Bergen 
Point,  New  Jersey,  took  an  active  part.  The  young 
ladies  attending  the  seminary  were  dressed  in  English 
costume,  neat  and  clean  in  appearance,  and  prove  apt 
and  quick  in  their  studies.  They  are  taught  in  their 
native  language,  and  in  the  English  if  desired. 

Missionaries  in  the  treaty  ports  of  Japan  are  doing 
a  good  and  profitable  work.  Some  of  those  sent  out  by 
the  American  and  English  boards  are  taken  under  the 
cognizance  and  into  the  pay  of  the  Government,  with 
the  distinct  understanding  that  they  are  at  liberty  to 
teach  Bible  truth  in  their  schools. 


CHAPTER   V. 

JAPAN. 

Novemher  ^dtli. — Japan  is  a  land  of  great  beauty,  and 
rich  in  fertility.  The  Government  and  its  inhabitants 
are  l)eing  rapidly  transformed  into  an  enlightened  civ- 
ilization, and  all  that  has  been  told  us  recently  of  the 
empire  is  abundantly  confirmed  by  observation  and  ex- 
perience. The  railway  and  the  telegraph  are  teaching 
the  people  great  lessons  of  social  reform.  The  two- 
sworded  warriors  are  scarcely  to  be  seen  in  the  streets 
as  hitherto,  and  there  is  substituted  for  these  blood- 
thirsty desperadoes  an  improved  system  of  police. 

There  are  a  great  many  foreigners  employed  and 
doing  business  in  the  treaty  ports  of  Japan,  as  engineers, 
surgeons,  teachers,  etc.  Great  Britain  holds  an  enviable 
position  in  this  category  of  ofiicials,  and  British  influence 
is  made  manifest  in  many  ways.  There  are  several  news- 
papers printed  in  English,  and  to  some  extent  the  Eng- 
lish language  is  spoken,  but  it  is  not  known  by  the  na- 
tives in  the  country  towns.  Until  within  the  last  fe^v 
years,  foreigners  were  not  permitted  to  enter  the  pre- 
cincts of  Tokio  without  a  military  escort,  but  now  all 
strangers  have  the  liberty  to  visit  and  explore  with  the 
greatest  degree  of  safety.  We  were  drawn  in  the  giin- 
rilci-slias,  and  entered  the  great  temple  of  Shiba,  and  the 


58  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

tombs  of  tlie  tycoons  and  their  wives,  and  rode  freely 
througli  and  around  the  city,  visiting  all  the  princij^al 
temples  and  places  of  sacred  dancing,  without  being  mo- 
lested. The  mikado,  nnlike  the  exclusive  and  secluded 
emperors  of  many  ages  ago,  mingles  with  the  people,  and 
holds  converse  with  the  representatives  of  foreign  states, 
and  numerous  embassies  and  deleo;ations  are  sent  to 
Europe  and  America,  all  designed  to  collect  such  infor- 
mation as  will  promote  the  best  interests  of  law  and  order. 

The  territory  of  Japan  comprises  four  large  islands 
and  nearly  four  thousand  smaller  ones.  There  are  seven 
grand  divisions,  which  are  subdivided  into  sixty-eight 
provinces,  and  these  again  into  smaller  districts  and 
towns.  It  has  an  area  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  thou 
sand  square  miles,  and  a  population  of  about  thirty  mill 
ion.  She  was  once  in  the  far-off  Orient,  but  is  now  our 
nearest  Western  neighbor.  Her  people  walk  our  streets 
her  young  men  are  being  educated  in  our  colleges ;  her 
art  adorns  our  homes,  and  has  ojjened  to  us  a  new  field 
of  commerce. 

In  Japan,  for  the  last  six  hundred  years,  there  have 
been  both  a  civil  and  a  relio-ious  ruler,  althouo-h  the 
latter  was  scarcely  anything  more  than  a  nominal  officer. 
The  former,  known  under  the  name  of  tycoon,  had  the 
reins  of  government  in  his  own  hands ;  but  the  mikado 
was  recognized  as  the  religious  head  of  the  empire,  and 
was  superior  in  rank  to  the  tycoon,  and  yet  he  had  little 
to  do  with  public  affairs.  In  the  year  1868  a  revolution 
was  inaugurated,  and  at  length  became  successful,  l)y 
which  the  power  of  the  tycoon  was  overthrown,  and  he 


JAPAN.  59 

was  reduced  to  the  position  of  a  prince  of  the  empire. 
The  mikado  was  duly  installed  and  recognized  as  su- 
preme ruler.  Under  him  he  has  two  hundred  and  sixty 
daimios,  of  whom  eighteen  are  the  chiefs  of  the  empii'e 
or  feudal  lords,  with  supreme  authority  in  their  own 
provinces,  and  liaving  under  their  control  thousands  of 
retainers  to  do  their  fighting.  Before  the  late  change  in 
the  government  the  daimios  were  required  to  reside  at 
the  capital  at  least  half  the  year,  as  hostages  or  pledges 
of  their  adherence  to  and  support  of  the  reigning  power ; 
but  since  the  change  they  are  allowed  to  reside  in  their 
own  provinces. 

The  mikado,  who  is  now  the  sui^reme  and  only  ac- 
knowledged head  of  the  government,  formerly  had  his 
palace  at  Miako,  the  religious  capital  of  the  empire ;  but, 
since  he  has  been  ackno^vledged  as  emperor,  he  has  taken 
up  his  residence  at  Tokio. 

The  Japanese  are  quick  in  apprehension,  and  willing 
to  learn  from  others.  They  are  decidedly  ingenious,  but 
are  wanting  in  mental  vigor  as  compared  with  the 
Chinese,  their  neighbors.  They  are,  however,  exceed- 
ingl}^  polite  and  easy  in  all  their  intercourse.  The  people, 
even  in  the  more  retired  country  districts,  have  a  certain 
grace,  and  are  as  affal^le  in  their  manners,  and  as  polite 
in  their  intercourse,  as  those  who  dwell  in  the  cities. 

In  their  shops  and  houses  they  are  the  pattern  of 
neatness  and  good  taste.     One  may  walk  for  miles  through 
their  streets,  looking  into  their  dwellings  and  places  of 
business,  which  are  all  open  to  the  gaze  of  the  public, 
and  he  will  never  tire  in  his  admiration  of  the  cleauli- 


(50  AROUND    THE   WO  ELD. 

ness  wliich  prevails,  and  of  tlie  regard  to  tlie  arrangement 
of  tlieir  various  articles  offered  for  sale. 

The  dwellings  are  only  fi*om  one  to  two  stories  in 
lieiglit,  with  open  fronts.  The  first  floor  is  commonly 
used  for  a  shop,  in  which  something  is  offered  for  sale. 
The  little  gardens  in  the  i-ear  attached  to  their  dwellings 
or  places  of  business  are  pretty,  and  as  neat  as  their 
houses. 

The  Jaj^anese  generally  have  fine  teeth,  but  when  a 
woman  marries  she  is  compelled  by  the  laws  of  society 
to  dye  her  teeth  black,  and  this  2:)rocess  is  renewed  at 
least  once  a  week.  In  city  or  country,  wherever  we  go, 
we  meet  the  grim  smile  of  women  who  have  fallen  into 
the  bonds  of  matrimony.  What  was  the  origin  of  this 
custom  I  do  not  know,  unless  it  was  to  designate  the 
married  from  the  unmarried.  There  is  nothing:  more 
distasteful  than  to  see  a  person  with  black  teeth. 

The  men  in  Japan  shave  their  heads,  making  a  bald 
spot  upon  the  crown,  which  likens  them  to  Jesuit  priests, 
while  they  have  a  narrow  circle  of  hair  around  the  head. 
Both  men  and  women  shave  the  eyebrows  off  smooth,  and 
have  the  hair  carefully  plucked  out  of  the  ears  and  nose. 
The  barber  is  an  important  functionary,  who  does  his 
work  on  the  streets,  where  scores  of  both  sexes  may  be 
seen  daily  sitting  upon  the  sidewalks,  having  tlieii*  heads 
shaved  and  hair  trimmed. 

The  Japanese  ladies  are  generally  proud ;  the  higher 
class  go  dressed  in  their  silks  of  domestic  make  with 
theii'  faces  colored  in  a  modest  style ;  they  wear  no  stock- 
ings, but  have  sandals  of  mat,  and  some  have  wooden 


JAPAN. 


61 


slioes.     The  men  and  women  bear  a  similar  expression, 
and  can   only  be   designated  by  their  dress.     They  are 


JAPANESE  BABBERS. 


small  in  stature,  of  a  dark-bronze  complexion,  with  small 
features,  and  are  rather  a  pretty  race  of  23eople. 

Many  of  their  customs  are  very  opposite  to  those  of 


62  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

other  nations.  Tlie  carpenter,  in  using  the  plane,  draws 
it  toward  him  instead  of  pushing  it.  It  is  the  same  with 
the  saw,  which  he  draws  when  he  wishes  to  cut.  They 
have  their  horses  and  oxen  shod  with  straw  mats  in- 
stead of  iron,  and  the  streets  are  strewed  with  cast-off 
sandals  of  the  ponies. 

In  some  of  the  arts  the  Japanese  are  in  advance  of 
all  other  nations.  The  porcelain  of  Japan,  although  it 
takes  its  name  from  the  Celestial  Empire,  is  rarely  rivaled 
in  China.  The  lacquer-ware  is  beyond  comparison  with 
the  productions  of  any  other  country.  They  excel  in 
working  metals,  especially  in  bronzes  and  in  all  inlaying 
work.  They  also  have  a  great  fondness  for  painting  on 
silk,  and  drawing.  Their  books  are  profusely  illustrated 
with  plates  highly  colored. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

INLAND    SEA    OF    JAPAN    AND    YELLOW    SEA    OF    CHINA. 

N'ovemher  10th. — This  afternoon  at  four  o'clock  we 
take  passage  on  board  the  American  steamship  Golden 
Age,  Captain  Furl^er,  for  Shanghai,  China;  distance 
twelve  hundred  miles,  fare  sixty-five  dollars  apiece.  We 
have  in  company  twenty-five  first-class  passengers.  The 
Golden  Age  is  of  the  capacity  of  two  thousand  tons,  and 
a  fine  sea-going  vessel.  Shortly  after  the  ship's  anchor  is 
weighed,  steaming  out  the  harbor,  we  get  sight  of  flying- 
fish  with  their  silver  bodies  and  transparent  wings,  fleet 
as  birds  ;  some  of  them  flew  from  one  to  two  hundred 
feet  before  lia-htino;:.  This  kind  of  fish  were  not  new  to 
rae,  for  I  had  often  seen  them  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

November  lltJi. — This  forenoon  we  encountered  heavy 
winds  from  the  northwest  and  a  rough  sea,  but  later  in 
the  day,  as  we  approached  the  numerous  small  islands, 
which  make  up  the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan,  the  waters  were 
perfectly  clear,  without  a  ripj)le  upon  their  surface. 

November  12th. — This  morning,  just  at  the  break  of 
day,  we  arrived  in  the  port  of  Hiogo,  where  our  ship  re- 
mained at  anchor  for  twenty-three  hours,  giving  the  pas- 
sengers an  opportunity  of  visiting  the  city.  Hiogo  is 
beautifully  situated  ui:>on  a  spacious  bay,  with  a  back- 
ground of  high,  picturesque  mountains,  and  containing 


g4  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls.  There  are  several 
large  English  vessels  at  anchor  waiting  for  cargoes  of 
tea.  Hiogo  is  one  of  the  treaty  ports.  Osaka  is  fifteen 
miles  distant,  and  is  the  site  of  the  fortified  castle  of  the 
tycoons,  destroyed  by  fire  in  the  late  revolution.  It  is  a 
city  of  great  wealth,  its  silk-houses  surpassing  those  of 
any  other  city  in  the  empire.  Our  time  being  limited, 
we  did  not  visit  Osaka,  l)ut  occupied  ourselves  in  looking 
through  the  ancient  city  of  Hiogo. 

November  \2>tli. — At  five  o'clock  this  morning  I  was 
aroused  by  the  sound  of  the  ship's  gun,  when  the  anchor 
was  weighed,  and  we  were  soon  after  steaming  through 
the  beautiful  Inland  Sea.  Nature  seems  to  have  done  more 
for  Japan  than  for  any  country  in  which  I  have  been — 
its  delightful  climate,  fishing-lakes,  and  diversified  moun- 
tains, so  richly  clad  with  brushwood,  occasionally  dotted 
with  towns  and  cities,  constantly  j^resenting  to  our  gaze 
a  perfect  panoramic  view.  I  have  seen  all  the  principal 
lakes  in  Scotland,  Ireland,  Switzerland,  and  America,  but 
this  surpasses  each  of  them,  and  combines  the  best  feat- 
ures all  in  one. 

November  lUli. — Sabbath.  This  morning  early  I  was 
ao-ain  aroused  from  sluml^er  by  the  noise  of  the  ship's 
gun  resounding  through  the  harbor,  reverberating  among 
the  mountains  which  overlook  the  town,  and  when  I 
went  on  deck,  Captain  Furber  informed  me  that  we  were 
in  the  harbor  of  Shine  Sacka,  which  is  entirely  landlocked 
by  a  high  group  of  mountains  formed  by  the  islands  of 
the  sea.  It  was  novel  to  see  the  natives  come  off  and  be- 
siege the  ship  witli   their  canoes,  many  of  them  having 


INLAND    SEA    OF  JAPAN.  65 

oranges  and  a  variety  of  other  fruits  for  sale.  In  tliis 
section  of  Japan,  upon  tlie  smaller  islands,  the  land  is 
rich  in  fertility,  but  the  people  are  far  behin<l  the 
age  in  agricultural  implements.  The  soil  is  all  dug 
up  with  the  lioe.  I  did  not  see  a  plough,  shovel,  nor 
spade,  in  the  country.  They  have  no  barns  nor  out- 
houses in  which  to  [)ut  their  crops ;  the  grain  is  thrashed 
out  in  the  fields,  and  carried  in  baskets  to  their  dwellings, 
in  which  it  is  stored. 

At  half-past  ten  o'clock  we  resume  our  voyage.  We 
iind  a  perfect  panoramic  view  of  over  four  hundred  miles 
of  the  most  delightful  scenery  of  ever-charming  and  never- 
ending  beauties.  The  weather  is  both  clear  and  calm. 
The  channel  twists  around  and  aniono;  the  islands  in  all 
directions,  so  that  the  headlands  whicli  we  pass  seem  as 
fleeting  as  the  clouds,  j)roducing  ever-varying  scenery. 
During  one  hour  we  are  making  our  way  along  under 
the]  deep  shadow  of  some  naked  precij^ice  looming  up 
thousands  of  feet ;  in  the  next  we  are  passing  terraced 
Mil-sides  covered  with  flowery  plains  and  fields,  and 
forests,  in  which  the  bamboo,  the  tulip,  and  the  cypress 
commingle.  It  seems  as  if  the  busy  poj)ulation  of  the 
whole  empire  has  clustered  on  those  romantic  shores,  and 
tke  fishing-boats  may  be  num1)ered  l)y  thousands,  filled 
with  natives  taking  fish  in  great  quantities. 

November  loth. — About  midnight  I  heard  the  sound 
of  the  ship's  gun  reecho  among  the  hills  and  valleys, 
which  indicated  our  arrival  in  the  port  of  Nagasaki. 
Early  in  the  morning  we  went  on  shore  and  called  on 
Mr.  Mangum,  the  American  consul,  who  kindly  offered 


6Q 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


his  services  to  show  ns  about  tlie  town,  but  we  being- 
accompanied  by  Dr.  Painter,  wlio  had  formerly  lived 
here  and  could  speak  the  language,  declined,  thanking 
him  for  his  kind  offer. 

Nagasaki  is  very  beautifully  situated  at  the  base  of 
the  mountains,  sloping  gradually  down  to  the  sea,  and 


NAGASAKI  HARBOR. 


containing  a  population  of  about  one  hundred  thousand. 
Our  ship  stopped  here  part  of  two  days,  affording  us  an 
opportunity  to  visit  the  town  and  surroundings,  which 
will  rival  in  grandeur  and  diversified  scenery  any  city 
that  I  have  been  in. 

Novemher  IQth. — This  morning,  in  company  with  Mr. 


THE    YELLOW   SEA.  67 

and  Mrs.  Kunnels  and  Dr.  Painter,  we  take  a  ramble  over 
tlie  cit}'.  Soon  after  leaving  the  English  settlement,  we 
find  ourselves  in  the  ancient  town,  ^^'hich  in  character  is 
purely  Oriental,  where  we  visit  shop  after  shop  looking 
at  fancy  articles,  of  which  turtle-shell  is  one  of  the 
specialties.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  hear  the  sound  of  the 
ship's  gun  to  notify  the  passengers  to  be  in  readiness. 
We  accordino-ly  hasten  on  board,  and  in  a  few  moments 
the  anchor  is  weighed,  and  our  noble  ship  steaming  out 
of  the  harbor.  We  soon  approach  and  pass  by  Takaboko 
Island,  which  is  more  like  a  huo-e  rock  loomino;out  of  the 
sea,  and  has  a  melancholy  history.  At  the  close  of  the 
sixteenth  century,  when  the  introduction  of  Christianity 
by  the  Jesuits  excited  the  apprehension  of  the  Japanese 
Government,  and  when  the  order  was  given  to  exterminate 
the  foreign  religion  by  a  bloody  persecution,  many  thou- 
sands of  Christians  fied  to  this  island  for  a  last  refuge  ; 
they  were  pursued  by  the  natives,  and  those  who  escaped 
the  sword  were  driven  into  the  sea  and  perished  in  the 
waters ;  and  a  large  number  of  natives  were  afterward 
arrested  and  condemned  to  death  or  servitude  for  ad- 
herence to  that  faith. 

Our  stay  in  Japan  of  some  two  or  three  weeks  was 
highly  enjoyed  by  us.  As  we  look  back  over  its  land- 
scape, it  is  with  regret  tliat  our  stay  could  not  have  been 
prolonged,  and  no  country  will  be  remembered  by  us 
with  more  interest  than  Japan. 

November  17 fh.- — This  morning  we  find  ourselves  in 
the  Yellow  Sea,  out  of  sight  of  land.  Weather  clear; 
thermometer  71° ;  wind  fresh  from  the  northwest ;  course 


68  AROUXD    THE    WORLD.] 

west.  Here  we  meet  the  yellow-colored  waters,  some 
two  liuudred  miles  from  land,  wliicli  have  their  source 
from  the  Yaug-tse-kiang  River,  one  of  the  largest  rivers 
of  the  East,  and  said  to  be  thirtv-five  hundred  miles 
in  leno'th,  and  navio;able  for  laro;e  river-steamers  for 
nearly  one  thousand,  and  for  smaller  class  two  thousand, 
miles.  It  is  the  constant  washing  away  of  its  yello^v 
clay-banks  coloring  the  waters,  ebbing  to  the  ocean, 
which  constitutes  the  Yellow  Sea.  Soon  after  leavino- 
these  yellow  waters  we  enter  Woosung  Kiver,  on  which 
Shano'hai  is  situated,  about  twelve  miles  from  its  mouth. 
At  the  entrance  we  passed  by  a  long  range  of  earth- 
works— one  of  the  Chinese  forts — guarded  by  a  large 
force  of  soldiers,  and  in  front  lie  sf'veral  English  war- 
vessels,  among  which  I  saw  two  American  men-of-war, 
for  the  protection  of  English  and  American  commerce, 
and  also  a  large  fleet  of  Chinese  war-junks,  doubtless 
built  after  the  model  that  was  most  approved  over  a 
thousand  years  ago. 

At  2  p.  M.  we  arrive  in  Shanghai ;  here  we  undergo 
an  examination  of  our  baggage  by  custom-house  officials 
and  then  take  quarters  in  the  Central  Hotel,  board  two 
dollars  and  a  half  per  day. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

SHANGHAI   TO   HONG-KONG. 

JSFavemher  ISth. — Shano-liai  is  one  of  tLe  lame  sea- 
port  towns  of  China  for  the  shipment  of  tea ;  it  contains 
a  population  of  three  hundred  thousand.  The  streets 
are  narrow,  and  kept  tolerably  clean  for  an  Oriental 
town  literally  filled  ^vith  people.  Here  we  see  a  differ- 
ent peoj)le,  and  hear  a  different  dialect  spoken,  from  those 
of  Japan. 

The  recent  events  which  have  taken  place  in  Japan 
and  India  have  drawn  public  attention  to  the  Chinese 
Empire  more  than  ever  before.  Her  neighbors,  both 
Japan  and  India,  are  building  and  extending  their  rail- 
roads, to  which  China  has  been  opposed.  The  changes 
now  initiated  by  her  close  neighbors  will  compel  China 
ere  long  to  fall  in  with  the  demands  of  foreign  powers, 
or  else  her  rulers  will  gradually  be  driven  away,  and 
give  place  to  others  more  in  unison  with  the  new  order 
of  things.  There  are,  however,  great  vitality  and  self- 
support  in  her  institutions,  and  in  the  peaceful  industry 
of  the  mass  of  the  Chinese  people,  and  these  features  of 
their  personal  and  national  character  furnish  grounds 
of  hope  that  they  will  adapt  themselves  to  the  march  of 
improvement. 


70  AROUND    TEE   WORLD. 

The  Cliinese  census  of  1839  gave  a  population  of 
four  liundred  and  fifteen  million  ;  during  the  last  twenty- 
years,  however,  civil  wars,  famine,  and  pestilence,  have 
probably  reduced  the  population  to  about  three  hundred 
and  seventy-five  million.  Even  at  this  estimate  it  is 
nearly  ten  times  that  of  the  United  States,  and  about 
one-third  of  the  earth's  inhabitants  is  found  in  this  em- 
pire. The  origin  of  the  Chinese,  from  the  best  light  we 
have,  appears  to  be  as  follows  :  During  the  first  century 
after  the  confounding  of  tongues,  five  or  six  nomadic 
tribes  from  the  region  southeast  of  the  Caspian  Sea  made 
their  way  eastward,  seeking  out  the  best-watered  and 
most  productive  places,  and  finally  settled  along  the 
banks  of  the  Yang-tse-kiang  River,  in  the  central  and 
western  portion  of  what  is  now  the  Chinese  Empire. 
Therefore  China  has  existed  almost  from  the  time  of  the 
confusion  of  tongues,  and  has  had  a  consolidated  gov- 
ernment or  nationality  for  nearly  three  thousand  years. 
Other  ancient  nations,  as  the  Assyrians,  Babylonians, 
Egyj)tians,  Persians,  and  Greeks,  all  rose  and  flourished 
for  a  time,  but  at  length  became  extinct,  and  the  moul- 
derino;  ruins  of  their  renowned  cities  alone  tell  of  their 
former  greatness.  Later  empires,  as  the  Syrian  and  Ro- 
man, rose,  had  their  period  of  prosperity  and  power,  and 
long  since  fell  into  decay.  But  here  stands  China  to- 
day, unmoved  by  the  waves  of  time,  existing  through  all 
the  long  ages,  with  her  system  of  government,  her  laws, 
her  arts,  her  habits  and  customs,  unchanged.  A  won- 
derful nation  that,  thus  to  withstand  the  shock  of  re- 
peated bloody  revolutions,  and  changes  of  rulers,  and 


SHANGHAI    TO    HOKG-KONG.  71 

remain  tlie  same  amid  all  national  vicissitudes  for  so 
many  ages.  At  tlie  departure  of  the  Hebrews  from 
Egy{)t,  China  was  already  about  seven  hundred  years 
old;  when  Isaiah  prophesied  Israel's  future  conversion 
to  God,  China  had  existed  fifteen  centuries. 

Some  idea  of  the  vast  extent  of  the  Chinese  Empire 
may  be  obtained  by  considering  its  line  of  sea-coast, 
running  nearly  three  thousand  miles,  having  an  area  of 
about  five  million  square  miles,  its  magnificent  rivers, 
the  largest  of  which  is  the  Yang-tse-kiang,  being  thirty- 
five  hundred  miles  in  length,  the  third  river  in  the  world, 
and  draining  a  basin  of  about  eight  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  square  miles. 

The  Chinese  have  more  streno-th  of  intellect,  more 
solidity  of  character,  and  a  higher  civilization,  than  any 
other  heathen  nation.  This  is  shown  by  their  formation 
of  a  wise  system  of  government,  and  an  able  code  of 
laws ;  by  their  invention  of  the  art  of  manufacturing  silk 
fabrics^  \vhich,  near  the  commencement  of  the  Christian 
era,  were  sold  to  the  Romans  for  their  w^eight  in  gold ; 
also,  by  the  manufacture  of  porcelain  and  china  ware,  the 
best  in  the  world ;  by  the  invention  and  use  of  gunj)0w- 
der,  and  the  magnetic  needle ;  and  by  the  invention  of 
the  art  of  printing,  five  hundred  years  before  it  was 
known  in  the  West.  They  have  good  mental  powers, 
which  is  shown  by  their  extensive  literature.  As  an 
indication  of  their  intellectual  ability,  the  fact  may  be 
mentioned  that  the  few  Chinese  who  have  been  educated 
in  European  and  American  colleges  and  universities  have 
acquitted  themselves  with  honor.     A  few  years  since  a 


72  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

Chinaman  in  Yale  College  bore  off  the  first  prize  in  his 
class  for  merit  in  English  composition. 

No  science  is  taught  in  their  schools ;  their  literary 
men  are  utterly  ignorant  of  the  natural  sciences,  and  of 
the  geography  and  history  of  other  countries.  In  their 
view,  the  earth  is  a  plain  occupied  chiefly  by  China  ;  the 
sun  and  stars  revolve  around  the  earth ;  the  rain  and 
the  tides  are  caused  by  dragons  ;  the  mnd  by  tigers  ; 
sickness  by  evil  spirits.  Their  strength  of  character  is 
manifest  in  their  firm  adherence  to  the  opinions  and  prin- 
ciples which  they  adopt,  and  those  ideas  into  which  they 
have  been  educated.  The  stability  of  their  character  is 
strikingly  observable  in  their  aversion  to  change ;  they 
strictly  adhere  to  the  same  principles  which  their  forefa- 
thers taught  thousands  of  years  ago. 

November  19t7i. — The  money  in  China  is  in  taels  (one 
tael  is  equal  in  value  to  one  dollar  and  thirty-three  cents 
of  American  coin)  ;  they  also  have  bank-bills  of  their  own 
make,  and  there  are  in  circulation  a  great  many  Mexican 
and  American  trade-dollars,  which  go  at  their  par  value, 
but  American  gold  is  at  a  discount. 

In  drawing  money  from  the  banks,  both  in  Japan  and 
China,  application  is  first  made  to  the  president  or  cashier 
of  the  institution,  who  are  English ;  they  give  an  order 
upon  the  natives  who  are  in  attendance,  called  compra- 
dores,  in  a  separate  room,  who  handle  and  pay  over  the 
cash.  Instead  of  their  making  figures  and  accounts  upon 
paper,  they  have  a  small  flat  box  in  which  there  are  some 
four  or  five  rows  of  knobs  strung  on  cords  of  wire,  with 
which  they  can  work  out  the  most  intricate  sum  with 


SHANGHAI    TO    HONG-KONG.  73 

accuracy;  and  even  in  their  stores  and  places  of  business 
the  accounts  are  reckoned  by  the  same  method  in  the 
shortest  possible  space  of  time. 

Shanghai  is  a  walled  city,  three  miles  in  circuit, 
through  which  six  gates  open  to  the  wide  plain  upon 
which  it  is  situated,  fronting  on  the  river  Woosung.  The 
banks  of  the  river  are  covered  with  dwellings,  temples, 
shops,  etc.,  among  which  is  to  be  seen  the  Queen  of 
Heaven,  a  conspicuous  object. 

The  river,  stretching  along  the  front  of  the  city,  is 
literally  filled  with  junks,  some  gliding  down  the  stream, 
others  sailing  up ;  some  moving  by  oars,  and  others  lying 
at  anchor.  Shanghai  is  one  of  the  first  ports  opened  by 
the  treaty  of  1842,  and  previous  to  that  time  was  little 
visited  by  foreigners,  but  has  become  the  chief  foreign 
commercial  city  of  the  empire;  by  this  change,  Canton 
has  fallen  off  from  her  former  greatness,  both  for  the  ship- 
ment of  teas  and  other  commodities.  Shanghai  was  capt- 
ured by  the  Taepiug  rebels  in  1853,  and  held  for  two 
years,  when  they  retreated  from  this  part  of  China;  and 
while  the  rebels  were  making  bloody  havoc  in  other  parts 
of  the  empire  there  was  a  large  influx  of  people  to  this 
city  for  protection  and  residence,  which  is  one  of  the 
causes  of  its  more  rapid  growth. 

November  ^Oth. — This  evening  we  spent  at  the  resi- 
dence of  Mr.  Coryell,  formerly  of  New  York.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Coryell,  with  compliments,  sent  a  carriage  for  us, 
and  we  were  cordially  received  by  them.  At  ten  o'clock 
dinner  was  served ;  after  partaking  of  the  hospitalities  of 
the  occasion,  we  returned  to  the  hotel  about  midnight. 

6 


74  AROUND    TEE   WO  ELD. 

November  ^\8t. — Sabbath.  This  forenoon,  in  going  to 
church,  we  met  two  companies  of  sailors  from  off  a  British 
man-of-war,  under  the  command  of  their  respective  officers, 
neatly  clad,  accompanied  by  a  band  playing  sacred  music 
upon  the  fife  and  drum,  marching  to  the  English  church. 
On  the  one  side  the  officers  and  soldiers  were  seated,  and 
on  the  other  the  congregation.  If  this  were  done  in  the 
case  of  American  war-vessels,  as  a  rule,  it  would  keep  the 
sailors  and  soldiers  ft*om  the  numerous  dens  of  vice  and 
dissipation. 

November  22<^. — To-day  we  devote  principally  to 
shopping,  which  is  really  amusing.  Almost  every  dwell- 
ing has  a  shop  on  the  first  floor,  with  open  front,  where 
all  kinds  of  toys  of  native  manufacture  may  be  pur- 
chased ;  the  inmates  sit  flat  upon  the  floor,  making  up 
such  articles  as  they  offer  for  sale. 

November  23^/. — To-day  we  called  upon  Mr.  Seward, 
the  American  consul,  but  did  not  see  him.  He  has  been 
stationed  at  this  post  for  several  years,  and  the  people 
spoke  very  highly  of  him.  He  was  confined  to  his  resi- 
dence by  sickness.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Coryell  dined  with  us 
this  afternoon  at  the  Central  Hotel. 

November  ^Mli. — We  had  purposed  to  visit  Peking 
before  leaving  Shanghai  for  the  r.outh,  but  were  advised 
not  to  undertake  the  journey,  as  it  was  late  in  the  season, 
and  we  might  be  frozen  in.  We  regretted  not  being  able 
to  reach  the  capital,  but  it  is  just  as  well  to  see  a  few 
Chinese  cities  as  many,  for  they  all  bear  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  each  other.  Before  reaching  Shanghai  we  had 
thought  seriously  of  going  up  the  Yang-tse-kiang  River ; 


SHANGHAI    TO    HONG-KONG.  7,5 

we  found  splendid  American-built  steamers  witli  good  ac- 
commodations, making  regular  trips,  but,  having  been  so 
much  on  water,  upon  previous  tours,  we  thought  that  it 
would  be  more  desirable  to  devote  the  time  upon  the  land. 
November  2^tJi. — To-day  Mr.  Coryell  invited  us  to 
take  a  sail  with  him  in  his  steam-yacht.  Our  company 
consisted  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Coryell,  ]\Ir.  and  Mrs.  Runnels, 
and  Mrs.  Winants  and  myself.  We  left  the  dock  in  front 
of  our  hotel  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  forenoon.  As  we 
steam  up  the  river  we  pass  by  numerous  junks,  some  at 
anchor,  others  sailing  both  up  and  down  the  river.  After 
havins:  ascended  the  river  for  several  miles,  we  enter  one 
of  the  canals  and  go  back  into  the  country.  At  length 
we  land  in  a  small  Chinese  village,  literally  filled  with 
women  and  children.  We  did  not  see  many  men ; 
they  were  probably  at  work  in  the  fields.  Our  ladies 
attracted  their  attention ;  the  women  took  hold  of  and 
examined  their  clothing  as  if  they  were  the  first  people 
of  the  kind  that  they  had  ever  seen.  They  plucked  off 
.some  bunches  of  wild-flowers  and  presented  them  to  us, 
for  which  we  gave  in  return  some  coins.  Here  stands 
one  of  the  oldest,  if  not  the  largest,  Chinese  pagodas  in 
the  empire.  This  pagoda,  like  all  others  in  China,  is  oc- 
tagonal in  shape,  seven  stories  high.  We  ascended  flights 
of  circular  steps  to  the  upper  story,  whence  we  obtained 
a  splendid  view  of  the  surrounding  country,  dotted  with 
towns  and  hamlets  as  far  as  the  eve  could  extend.  The 
country  is  as  level  as  the  sea,  with  canals  running  in 
every  direction.  We  had  our  lunch  served  on  board  the 
yacht,  and  arrived  in  Shanghai  late  in  the  afternoon. 


76  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

November  2^t}t. — This  morning  early  we  gather  up 
movables,  and  take  passage  on  board  the  French  steam- 
ship Hoogly,  for  Hong-Kong;  distance  eight  hundred 
and  seventy  miles,  fare  fifty-four  taels  apiece,  equal  to 
seventy-two  dollars  of  American  coin,  being  the  highest 
fare  for  the  distance  that  I  have  ever  paid  in  any  part  of 
the  world.  The  distance  is  about  the  same  as  between 
New  York  and  Savannah,  which  is  only  twenty  dollars  in 
gold.  We  have  in  company  several  passengers,  mostly 
gentlemen  of  business. 

November  2^th. — On  the  Pacific  Ocean,  weather  good, 
wind  light  from  northwest  and  fair  ;  ship  under  full  sail 
sea  smooth,  course  west-southwest.  Thermometer  Qb 
Latitude  27°  30'  north,  longitude  1 1 9°  28'  east.  Ship  ran, 
from  yesterday  up  to  12  m.,  three  hundred  and  twenty-four 
miles.  By  carrying  the  French  mail,  they  drive  the  ship 
to  her  fullest  capacity  in  order  to  make  quick  time.  We 
cross  hundreds  of  junks  at  sea,  out  of  sight  of  the  land, 
taking  fish  with  nets ;  these  nets  are  from  one  to  one 
hundred  and  fifty  fathoms  in  length,  and  about  ten  feet 
in  width,  with  small  sinkers  made  of  lead  on  one  side  of 
the  net  to  sink  it  below  the  water's  surface,  and  corks 
on  the  upper  side  to  keep  it  on  the  surface.  When  it 
is  thrown  from  the  boat  on  a  circular  line,  another 
boat  takes  hold  of  the  far  end,  and  so  the  net  is  drawn 
through  the  sea  till  the  boats  come  together ;  then  the 
net  is  hauled  into  the  boats  with  the  fishes.  These  fish- 
ing-junks are  excellent  sea-going  craft,  and  remain  at  sea 
for  several  months ;  they  contain  entire  families,  consist- 
ing of  men,  women,  and  children. 


SHANOHAI    TO    HONG-KONG.  77 

November  ^^th. — On  the  Pacific  Ocean,  wind  light 
from  northwest ;  weather  charming.  Thermometer  68°. 
Sea  smooth,  course  west-southwest ;  ship  under  full  sail. 
Latitude  23°  30'  north,  longitude  115°  46'  east.  Made 
twq^  hundred  and  ninety-iive  miles  up  to  12  m. 

November  2\)th. — This  forenoon,  at  ten  o'clock,  we 
arrive  in  the  port  of  Hong-Kong,  having  been  three  days 
on  our  passage  from  Shanghai.  The  ship  drops  anchor 
off  in  the  stream.  In  landing  we  are  surrounded  by 
small  boats,  called  sampans.  In  the  midst  of  great 
bustle  and  confusion  we  succeed  in  getting  our  luggage 
into  one  of  the  boats,  and  soon  find  ourselves  landed 
upon  the  bund,  and  make  our  way  to  the  Hong-Kong 
Hotel ;  board  two  dollars  and  a  half  per  day  each. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


HONG-KONG. 


November  SOth. — Hong-Kong  is  an  island  adjacent  to 
tlie  mainland,  containing  a  population  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  thousand,  and  very  mountainous ;  there  is 
scarcely  a  level  acre  upon  the  whole  island.  There  is  a 
little  spot  about  a  mile  from  the  city,  called  the  Happy 
Valley,  which  has  been  appropriated  for  a  race-course ; 
above  these  sporting-grounds  on  the  side  of  the  hills, 
upon  rising  ground,  are  several  cemeteries  for  the  Eng- 
lish and  Roman  Catholics.  The  island  is  made  up  of 
lofty  peaks,  one  of  which,  Victoria  Peak,  overhangs  the 
towTi,  and  from  whose  summit  one  could  almost  throw  a 
stone  into  the  streets.  It  looms  up  eighteen  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  above  the  city.  The  view  from  the  peak 
affords  a  sight  of  the  entire  city  and  a  great  part  of  the 
island.  The  peak  is  ascended  in  sedan-chairs,  each  chair 
carried  by  four  coolies,  and  it  requires  an  hour  to  reach  its 
summit.  The  city  is  built  along  and  in  front  of  the  har- 
bor, in  terraces  rising  one  above  another,  until  the  upper 
tier  is  reached,  some  three  or  four  hundred  feet  in  height. 
Many  of  the  dwellings  are  palaces,  and  the  public  build- 
ings would  do  honor  to  any  city.  The  governor's  resi- 
dence, which  stands  back  upon  one  of  the  upper  streets 


HONG-KONG.  79 

overlooking  tlie  city,  is  a  fine  mansion.     The  City  Hall 
is  another  fine  structuve. 

Hong-Kong  is  one  of  the  free  ports  of  China,  and  is 
principally  settled  by  the  English.  It  is  divided  into 
two  parts,  the  natives  occupying  one  section  and  the 
English  the  other.  Victoria  is  the  English  name  of  the 
town,  although  abroad  it  is  commonly  called  IIong-Kong. 
It  is  one  of  the  chief  foreign  cities  on  the  China  coast, 
and  is  visited  by  more  ships  than  any  other.  It  is  said 
to  be  a  sort  of  posting  station  for  the  Avhole  Eastern 
world.  Ships  of  all  nationalities  are  lying  in  poi't,  wait- 
ing for  orders  from  their  owners,  while  others  are  dis- 
charging and  taking  in  their  cargoes.  It  being  an  Eng- 
lish colony,  shipmasters  feel  more  safe  than  they  did  a 
few  years  ago,  when  for  any  trifling  offense  the  natives, 
becoming  displeased,  would  scuttle  or  burn  the  ships, 
and  often  murder  the  crews. 

December  Xst.  —  To-day  we  made  a  call  upon  Mr. 
Baily,  the  American  consul,  who  courteously  received  us 
and  gave  much  information  as  to  the  manners  and  cus- 
toms of  the  people,  and  who  kindly  offered  his  services 
to  do  anything  that  would  best  facilitate  oar  move- 
ments. 

We  visited  the  Colonial  Prison,  where  some  four  or 
five  hundred  criminals  of  various  nationalities  are  con- 
fined. I  have  never  seen  a  penitentiary  more  neatly 
kept,  and  seemingly  under  better  management.  Among 
the  prisoners  were  several  Chinese  women,  who  had 
been  convicted  of  child-stealing,  which  is  a  very  common 
crime  in  China.     These  female  convicts  are  compelled  to 


80  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

stand  erect  upon  their  feet,  and  toe  a  straiglit  line,  for 
several  hours  each  day.  The  male  convicts  are  punished 
according  to  the  different  grades  of  crime :  those  con- 
fined for  stealing  are  compelled  to  pick  up  a  cannon-ball 
weighing  twenty-four  pounds,  carry  it  for  some  three  or 
four  paces,  then  lay  it  down  for  the  space  of  one  minute, 
and  continue  the  performance  for  three  hours  each  day ; 
others  go  in  couples  with  the  end  of  a  bamboo-stick  rest- 
ing on  each  one's  shoulder,  from  the  centre  of  which  is 
suspended  a  stone  of  eighty  pounds'  weight ;  others  are 
compelled  to  turn  a  mill  by  hand,  which  has  to  make  a 
certain  number  of  revolutions  before  they  can  have 
their  meals.  We  saw  some  who  had  been  incarcerated 
for  non-payment  of  debt,  for  which  the  complainants 
had  to  pay  five  cents  per  day  for  the  prisoner's  main- 
tenance. For  some  offenses  they  are  scourged  with 
twenty-five  lashes  upon  their  bare  backs,  while  those 
convicted  of  murder  have  their  heads  cut  oft'.  The  super- 
intendent of  the  prison  invited  us  to  call  on  the  follow- 
ing day  to  witness  the  scourging  of  some  prisoners,  and 
the  execution  of  those  who  had  incurred  the  penalty 
of  death. 

Mr.  Baily,  the  American  consul,  through  Captain 
Low,  one  of  our  fellow-passengers  from  Shanghai,  invited 
us  to  take  a  sail  around  the  island.  We  accepted  the 
invitation ;  but,  when  the  time  had  arrived  to  leave  the 
dock,  Mr.  Baily  sent  word  that  he  could  not  go,  on  ac- 
count of  some  unexpected  business  that  required  his 
attention.  Captain  Low  took  command  of  the  little 
steam-yacht.      We  first  visited  the  navy-yards  and  the 


HONG-KONG.  31 

dry-docks,  and  some  of  the  public  institutions  upon  the 
neighboring  islands ;  then  we  proceeded  to  view  the 
spot  where  the  steamship  Alaska  was,  by  the  typhoon 
of  1874,  picked  up  and  blown  high  and  dry  upon  the 
shore,  where  she  lay  for  nearly  two  months.  We  had 
in  our  company  a  very  interesting  party  of  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  all  highly  enjoying  the  excursion. 


CHAPTER   IX. 

CANTON    AND    ITS    SIGHTS. 

December  2d. — This  morning  at  eight  o'clock  we  take 
passage  on  board  the  side-wheel  steamer  White  Cloud, 
of  American  build,  for  Canton,  distance  ninety  miles; 
fare  for  the  round  trip,  up  and  down,  eleven  dollars. 
Our  course  for  forty-five  miles — half  of  our  voyage — lay 
among  sea-islands,  giving  us  only  occasional  glimpses  of 
the  mainland.  We  then  enter  the  deep  river,  the  banks 
of  which  are  lined  with  forts.  These  works,  before  the 
Opium  War,  were  regarded  by  the  Chinese  authorities 
as  a  reliable  defense.  The  English,  having  captured 
them,  stipulated  that  they  should  not  again  be  garri- 
soned ;  they  are  now  falling  into  ruin.  Therefore  Can- 
ton, the  southern  capital  of  China,  is  absolutely  defense- 
less, with  a  British  naval  and  military  force  at  its  very 
door.  Whampoa  is  some  fifteen  miles  down  the  river, 
below  Canton,  where  large  ships  are  moored  to  take  in 
heavy  cargoes  of  merchandise.  The  river-banks,  above 
Whampoa,  present  scenes  of  tropical  luxuriance  and 
beauty.  The  valley  expands,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach, 
and  is  covered  with  sugar-plantations,  banana  and  orange 
groves,  and  occasionally  we  pass  by  a  tea-plantation,  and 
on  some  of  the  higher  ground  near  the  city  may  be  seen 
pagodas. 


CANTON  AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  g^ 

At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  in  the 
city  of  Canton,  and,  by  the  time  our  steamer's  anchor 
had  touched  the  bottom,  we  were  surrounded  by  swarms 
af  small  boats  called  sampans  j  they  were  covered  over 
with  bamboo-tops,  which  are  adapted  to  keep  off  both 
sun  and  rain.  They  were  all  manned  by  women,  one  of 
whom  at  once  caught  up  my  baggage  and  ran  off  with 
it.  The  crowd  being  so  great,  and  the  confusion  per- 
plexing, I  thought  at  the  moment  that  I  should  lose  my 
property.  I  ran  after  the  woman,  crossing  over  boat 
after  boat,  until  she  made  a  halt,  when  I  asked  her  what 
she  intended  to  do  with  my  satchel.  She  answered  in 
broken  English  that  I  should  go  with  her,  as  she  kept 
the  hotel.  Finally,  I  said  that,  if  she  would  wait  till 
I  hunted  up  the  ladies  who  had  been  lost  in  the  crowd,, 
we  would  take  passage  in  her  boat.  She  was  barefooted 
and  bareheaded,  but  what  little  clothing  she  had  on  was 
clean,  her  hair  well  dressed  and  trimmed  with  orna- 
ments, and  she  possessed  a  bright  and  cheerful  coun- 
tenance, with  an  easy  address.  After  our  company  of 
four  were  seated  in  her  little  craft,  which  was  neat  and 
clean,  she  bent  herself  to  the  oars,  and  in  a  few  moments 
we  were  landed  alongside  of  the  dock.  After  ascending 
a  half-dozen  or  more  stone  steps  we  found  ourselves  in 
the  hotel,  fronting  on  the  river.  The  house  was  fear- 
fully ancient,  at  least  a  thousand  years  old ;  the  rooms 
were  more  like  barns  than  bedchambers.  We  soon  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  the  choicest  apartments  in  the  house, 
at  two  dollars  and  a  quarter  per  day.  I  asked  the  pro- 
prietor, who  could  speak  English  enough  to  be  under- 


84  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

stood,  if  the  woman  who  brought  us  from  the  steamer 
kept  the  hotel ;  he  laughingly  replied  that  this  was  the 
International  Hotel,  and  that  the  woman  who  brought 
us  from  the  steamer  was  his  boat-woman.  When  the 
gong  sounded  for  tiffin,  we  found  the  table  much  better 
supplied  than  we  expected,  and  the  entertainment  as 
good  as,  if  not  better  than,  we  had  received  in  more 
modern  hotels. 

The  city  of  Canton  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Pearl  River,  on  low  and  flat  land,  but  in 
the  distance  high  hills  are  visible.  The  city  proper  is 
inclosed  by  walls  of  from  six  to  seven  miles  in  circum- 
ference, having  a  partition  wall,  running  east  and  west, 
which  divides  it  into  two  unequal  parts.  The  entire 
circuit,  including  the  suburbs,  is  over  ten  miles.  The 
population,  on  land  and  water,  is  reported  to  be  about 
one  million.  Of  this  number  about  one-third  are  sup- 
posed to  reside  in  boats  upon  the  water.  The  multitude 
of  boats  and  junks  which  throng  the  river  makes  it  dif- 
cult  to  navigate.  There  are  at  least  as  many  houses 
outside  the  walls  as  within  them.  It  is  said  that  the 
city  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  houses  stretch  along  on 
both  sides  of  the  river,  a  distance  of  from  three  to  four 
miles,  and  the  banks  are  everywhere  nearly  concealed 
by  the  boats,  which  are  of  all  sizes. 

We  learn  from  the  most  reliable  authority  that  the 
city  of  Canton  was  settled  about  two  centuries  before 
Christ,  but  traders  were  located  here  even  prior  to  that 
time.  It  grew  in  importance  as  the  country  became 
better  settled,  and  in  the  seventh  century  a  regular  mar- 


CANTON  AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  35, 

ket  was  opened  and  a  collector  of  customs  appointed. 
When  the  Mantchoos  invaded  and  overran  the  countr}', 
this  city  was  finally  captured  by  treachery,  and  one  hun- 
dred thousand  men  were  killed  at  its  sack,  and  tlie  whole 
number  who  lost  their  lives  at  the  final  assault  and  dur- 
ing the  siege  was  over  half  a  million.  Since  then  Canton 
has  been  rebuilt,  and  so  increased  in  prosperity  that  it 
is  now  regarded  as  the  second  city  in  the  empire  for 
numbers,  and  next  to  Peking  for  wealth. 

The  foundations  of  the  city  walls  are  of  sandstone, 
and  their  upper  part  brick ;  they  are  about  twenty  feet 
thick,  and  range  from  twenty-five  to  forty  feet  high,  hav- 
ing an  esplanade  on  the  one  side,  and  pathways  leading 
to  the  ramparts  on  the  other. 

The  houses  are  built  very  near  the  wall,  on  both 
sides  of  it,  so  that  one  hardly  sees  it  when  walking 
around  the  city,  except  on  the  north.  There  are  twelve 
outer  gates,  four  in  the  partition  walls,  and  water-gates 
through  which  boats  pass,  from  east  to  west,  across  the 
new  part  of  the  city.  A  ditch,  or  moat,  once  encom- 
passed the  city  walls,  said  to  have  been  filled  with  water, 
but  which  is  now  dry.  The  canals  within  the  city's  in- 
closure  are  filled  with  the  tide-water  from  the  river. 
The  inhabitants  are  supplied  with  water  for  washing 
from  these  canals  and  the  river,  and  drinking-water  is 
plentifully  furnished  from  many  sj^rings  and  wells.  The 
gates  of  the  city  are  all  shut  at  night,  and  a  guard  is 
constantly  stationed  at  them  to  preserve  order.  Some 
of  the  principal  gates  are  named  thus :  Great  Peace  Gate, 
Eternal  Eest  Gate,  Bamboo  Gate,  Wicket  Gate,  etc. 


86  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

The  appearance  of  the  city,  when  viewed  from  the 
hills  on  the  north,  is  uninviting,  compared  with  Western 
•cities,  being  an  expanse  of  reddish  roofs  relieved  by  a 
few  large  trees,  and  interspersed  with  numerous  high 
red  poles  used  for  flag-staffs.  A  number  of  pagodas 
shoot  up  within  the  walls,  looming  to  the  height  of  from 
five  to  seven  stories.  We  ascended  one  of  the  highest. 
From  this  great  elevation  the  river  is  a  prominent  feat- 
ure in  the  landscape,  covered  with  a  great  diversity  of 
boats  of  diflerent  colors  and  sizes,  some  stationary,  others 
moving,  and  all  resounding  with  the  mingled  hum  of 
laborers,  sailors,  children,  and  boatmen,  pursuing  their 
several  sports  and  occupations.  A  fort  called  Dutch 
Folly,  or  Sea  Pearl  by  the  natives,  is  situated  on  a  little 
island  in  the  river,  covered  with  trees  and  build insis. 
Still  farther  can  be  seen,  on  the  southern  side  of  the 
river,  the  island  of  Hainan,  and  beyond  green  fields,  cov- 
ered with  rich  vegetation,  while  the  grand  old  river, 
winding  its  way  to  the  ocean,  looks  like  a  silver  thread 
at  the  feet  of  the  beholder.  The  hills  to  the  north  of 
the  city  rise  twelve  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  and 
for  several  miles  are  covered  with  graves  and  tombs; 
little  or  no  vegetation  can  be  seen  upon  them  from  our 
point  of  observation.  Three  or  four  forts  are  built  on 
eligible  spots  nearest  the  northern  walls. 

The  streets  are  too  nari'ow  to  be  seen  from  our  ele- 
vated position  ;  they  are  from  seven  to  ten  feet  in  width, 
twist  about  in  every  conceivable  way,  and  number  more 
than  six  hundred.  The  names  of  some  of  the  streets  are 
characteristic,   as  Martial  Street,  Dragon  Street,  Pearl 


z 

c 

h 

< 


CANTON    AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  ^f^ 

Street,  Golden-Flower  Street,  New  Green-Pea  Street, 
Physic  Street,  Spectacle  Street,  etc.  They  are  kept  tol- 
erably clean,  considering  the  number  of  pedestrians  who 
fill  them  to  their  fullest  capacity. 

The  houses  along  the  river-front  are  built  upon  piles 
driven  into  the  ground,  and  it  is  said  that  when  the 
waters  rise,  as  in  the  time  of  freshets,  that  part  of  the 
city  adjacent  to  the  river  is  inundated. 

We  were  carried  through  the  city  in  sedan-chairs, 
each  one  of  our  party  in  a  separate  chair,  which  is  sus- 
pended between  long  poles  and  carried  by  two  coolies, 
one  of  them  in  front  and  the  other  behind  the  sedan. 
We  were  accompanied  by  an  experienced  guide,  who 
was  educated  in  the  diiferent  languages  expressly  to 
enable  him  to  perform  his  duties  intelligently  while  con- 
ducting strangers  about  the  city.  We  visited  all  the 
principal  places  in  this  mysterious  city,  through  lanes 
and  dark  places,  without  being  in  any  wise  molested. 
By  the  shopkeepers,  from  whom  we  purchased  some 
^small  articles,  we  were  cordially  treated,  and  yet  the 
natives  eyed  us  as  if  we  were  the  first  strangers  they 
had  seen. 

We  saw  sights  peculiar  and  foreign  to  all  the  out- 
side world.  We  could  not  venture  alone  into  the  streets, 
one  hundred  yards  from  our  palace  hotel,  for  fear  of  be- 
ing lost.  Some  of  the  streets  are  perfect  bazaars,  the 
shops  on  either  side  being  filled  with  costly  articles  well 
arranged  for  eifect :  rich  silks,  ivory,  jewelry,  and  fancy- 
work  of  all  kinds ;  and  over  every  door  may  be  seen  an 
image  of  Joss,  or  some  one  of  their  gods.     All  the  prin- 


88  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

cipal  streets  are  hung  with  gay  banners,  suspended  from 
the  tops  of  the  houses  and  from  the  fronts  of  the  shops, 
forming  a  complete  canopy,  shutting  out  the  light  of  the 
sun.  The  signs,  which  are  gaudy,  stand  upright,  and 
with  their  bright  colors  give  a  pretty  aspect  to  both  the 
streets  and  buildings.  The  noisy  tide  of  human  beings 
constantly  surging  hither  and  thither  through  these  nar- 
row avenues,  on  foot  and  in  sedan-chairs,  with  coolies 
carrying  burdens  of  all  kinds,  blockaded  the  streets  at 
intervals,  and  brought  us  to  a  stand ;  but,  at  length,  we 
managed  by  hard  squeezing  to  force  our  way  through 
the  busy  and  chattering  crowd. 

The  Buddhist  temple  called  Hai-chwang,  opposite 
the  foreign  factories,  and  commouly.known  as  the  Honan 
Joss-house,  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Canton.  Its  grounds 
cover  about  seven  acres,  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and 
divided  into  courts,  gardens,  and  burial-ground,  where 
are  deposited  the  ashes  of  the  priests,  whose  bodies  are 
first  burned.  The  architectural  designs  of  the  buildings 
present  nothing  worthy  of  note,  consisting  mostly  of 
cloisters  or  apartments  surrounding  a  court;  within  is 
a  temple  or  pavilion.  The  buildings  are  overshadowed 
by  large  trees,  the  resort  of  thousands  of  birds.  The 
outer  gateway  opens  upon  the  street  on  the  river-front, 
and  leads  up  a  gravel- walk  to  a  high  portico  guarded  by 
two  huge  figures,  through  which  we  enter  a  small  in- 
closure,  separated  from  the  larger  one  by  another  spa- 
cious porch,  in  which  are  four  large  statues.  From  here 
we  are  conducted  to  the  main  temple,  a  low  building 
about  one  hundred  feet  square,  surrounded  by  pillars ; 


CANTON  AND    ITS   SIGHTS. 


89 


it  contains  three  gilded  images  in  a  sitting  posture,  called 
San,  Pan,  and  Full,  or  the  past,  present,  and  future 
Buddha,  each  of  them  ])eing  about  twenty  feet  high, 
surrounded  by  numerous  altars  and  smaller  images. 
Daily  prayers  are  chanted  before  them  by  a  large  body 


■ii^^i.\  .^M^x-j  ^S:m^i 


^^0^^^^^^0S^ 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  TEMPLE  OP  HONAN. 


of  people  and  j^riests,  all  dressed  in  yellow  robes,  who 
go  through  the  performance  with  great  pomp  and  regu- 
larity. Beyond  this  is  a  small  building,  which  contains 
a  marl)le  repository  bearing  somewhat  the  resemblance 

of  a  pagoda,  under  which,  rumor  says,  is  preserved  one 

7 


90  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

•1 

of  the  toe-nails  of  Buddha,  the  relic  being  deeply  ven- 
erated by  the  devoteef^.  This  court  contains  numerous 
shrines  and  offices  for  the  accommodation  of  the  priests, 
among  which  are  the  printing-office  and  library,  both  of 
them  respectable  for  size. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  priests  con- 
nected with  this  establishment,  only  a  portion  of  whom 
can  read  and  write.  They  eat  no  flesh  of  any  kind,  red 
rice  being  their  principal  food.  In  one  part  of  the  tem- 
ple-grounds there  is  a  spot  appropriated  to  the  reception 
of  swine,  which  are  fed  so  long  as  they  live. 

Besides  the  Honan  Temple,  there ^  are  two  others  in 
the  old  city  belonging  to  Buddha.  One  of  them,  called 
Kwang-hian,  or  Temple  of  the  Glorious  Filial  Duty,  con- 
tains two  hundred  priests,  who  are  supported  from  the 
lands  belonging  to  the  establishment,  which  are  situated 
outside  of  the  city,  containing  thirty-five  hundred  acres. 
The  number  of  priests  in  Canton  is  estimated  to  be  over 
two  thousand,  nine-tenths  of  whom  are  Buddhists. 

The  Chin2:-hwan2:-mian  is  conceded  to  be  one  of  the 
most  important  religious  institutions  in  Canton,  where 
both  rulers  and  people  ofter  their  devotions  for  the  wel- 
fare of  the  city.  The  superintendent  of  this  institution, 
I  am  informed,  pays  four  thousand  dollars  for  the  privi- 
lege of  selling  candles,  incense,  etc.,  to  the  worshipers. 
The  areas  in  front  of  most  of  the  temples  are  occupied 
by  hucksters,  beggars,  and  idlers. 

The  Chinese  generally  travel  by  water.  In  the  con- 
struction and  management  of  their  river-craft  they  are 
expert  and  not  excelled.    Most  of  the  boats  in  and  about 


CANTOR  AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  91 

Canton  are  intended  to  be  the  residences  of  those  who 
navigate  them.  Only  a  part  of  the  large  fleet  of  boats 
seen  on  the  Pearl  Kiver  at  Canton  are  intended  for  trans- 
portation, a  great  number  being  designed  for  fixed  resi- 
dences, and  perhaps  one-half  of  them  are  moored  stem- 
and-stern  in  rows.  They  are  not  obliged  to  remain  where 
they  station  themselves,  but  both  the  boats  and  their 
inmates  are  under  the  supervision  of  a  water-police,  who 
register  them  and  point  out  the  position  they  may  occupy. 
Those  that  are  employed  in  carrying  merchandise,  such 
as  tea,  salt,  flour,  etc.,  are  grouped  together  and  more  • 
-easily  found.  It  is  reported  that  nearly  fifty  thousand 
boats  are  registered  as  belonging  to  the  city  of  Canton. 
It  would  seem  incredil)le  for  such  a  large  number  to 
remain  moored  in  the  river  at  the  same  time,  but  doubt- 
less many  of  them  are  at  sea.  No  one  who  has  been  at 
Canton  can  forget  the  bustling,  noisy,  and  animating 
sight  upon  the  river,  nor  fail  to  have  noticed  the  good- 
humored  carefulness  with  which  boats  of  every  size  pass 
each  other  without  collision. 

It  is  difficult  to  describe  the  many  kinds  of  vessels 
found  on  the  Chinese  waters.  They  are  furnished  with 
stern-sculls,  which  move  upon  a  pivot,  and  are  easily 
propelled  amid  the  crowd.  Larger  boats  are  furnished 
with  two  or  three  sculls,  which,  when  not  in  use,  are 
hauled  in  upon  the  side  of  the  vessel.  They  are  also 
provided  with  oars,  which  are  fastened  by  withes  and 
run  in  a  band  attached  to  a  large  wooden  pin.  The 
masts  in  some  of  the  large  cargo-boats  have  two  spars, 
resting  on  the  gunwales  and  meeting  above,  and  so  ar- 


92 


AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 


ranged  as  to  be  hoisted  at  pleasure ;  in  those  boats  de- 
signed for  residences  no  provision  is  made  for  masts,  the 
oars  and  sculls  being  sufficient  to  do  the  work  required. 
Fishing-boats,  lighters,  and  sea-going  vessels,  have  (me 
or  more  permanent  masts.  In  these  larger  l^oats  a  wale 
or  framework  projects  from  the  side,  on  which  the  boat- 
men walk  Avhen  poling  the  vessel.  The  sails  are  made 
of  common  matting,  sewed  into  a  single  sheet,  and  pro- 


TRADING-JTJNK. 


vided  with  yards  at  the  top  aud  bottom,  and  bamboo 
ribs  on  the  face,  which  serve  to  retain  the  loops  that  run 
on  the  masts,  and  enable  the  boatmen  to  haul  them  close 
on  the  wind.  A  driver  is  sometimes  placed  on  the  taff- 
rail,  and  a  small  foresail  near  the  bow.  No  Chinese  boat 
has  a  bowsprit. 

The  internal  arrangement  of  the  boat-dwellings  is 
simple,  and  they  are  said  to  be  kept  cleaner  than  their 
houses.     The  better  class  are  from  sixty  to  eighty  feet 


CANTON  AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  93 

long,  and  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  in  width,  divided  into 
three  rooms  comprising  a  kitchen,  a  phxce  to  do  their 
work,  and  a  place  to  sleep.  The  cooking  and  washing 
are  performed  on  the  high  framework  astern,  which  is 
admirably  contrived  for  such  purposes,  having  furnaces 
and  other  conveniences.  By  means  of  awnings  and 
framework  the  top  of  the  boat  also  subserves  many  ob- 
jects of  work  or  pleasure.  Tlie  windows  are  closed  with 
shutters  and  curtains,  and  the  ^vood-work  is  fancifully 
carved  and  painted. 

A  large  number  of  Canton  boats  are  about  twenty- 
five  feet  long,  containing  only  one  room,  and  are  covered 
with  movable  mats  so  contrived  as  to  inclose  the  whole 
vessel;  they  are  usually  rowed  or  sculled  l)y  women, 
who  thus  earn  a  livelihood,  while  their  husbands  work- 
in  the  city  by  the  day.  In  these  boats  whole  families 
are  reared,  live,  and  die.  The  room  which  serves  for 
passengers  by  day  is  a  bedroom  by  night ;  a  kitchen  at 
one  time,  a  wash-room  at  another,  and  a  nursery  always. 
The  inside  of  the  boats  is  movable,  and  when  cleaning 
is  to  be  done  the  boat  is  floated  on  shore,  emptied  to  the 
skin,  turned  bottom  up  and  scrubbed,  and  the  whole 
put  to  rights  in  a  comparatively  short  time,  and  then 
floated  off. 

The  lighters  are  called  chop-boats ;  some  of  these 
occasionally  serve  for  passenger-boats.  Those  in  which 
tea,  salt,  and  miscellaneous  cargoes  are  transported,  are 
from  eighty  to  ninety  feet  long,  and  will  carry  from  two 
to  three  hundred  tons.  The  passage-boats  are  similar 
in  construction  to  the  lighters,  with  the  exception  of  a 


94  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

small  cabin  for  women  in  the  bow.  The  passengers 
bring  their  own  bedding,  and  select  a  place  at  night  in 
the  main  room,  where  as  many  sleep  as  can  find  places, 
others  accommodating  themselves  on  deck.  Man_y  of 
these  boats  arrive  and  depart  from  Canton  daily,  so 
loaded  down  with  passengers  that  they  may  be  com- 
oared  to  floatino;  ant-hills,  or  swarms  of  bees. 

The  revenue  -  officers  employ  a  narrow,  sharp-built 
boat,  propelled  by  forty  or  fifty  rowers,  at  the  rate  of 
twelve  to  thirteen  miles  an  hour.  They  are  armed  with 
swivels,  spears,  and  pikes ;  they  are  lined  on  the  sides 
with  an  array  of  rattan  shields,  painted  to  represent 
tigers'  heads.  The  smugglers  about  Canton,  who  are 
numerous,  have  similar-made  boats.  They  don't  carry 
the  national  flag,  but  each  officer  hoists  the  duplicate  of 
the  banner  belonging  to  his  own  office.  Junks  carry  a 
great  variety  of  flags,  but  no  private  vessel  is  allowed  to 
hoist  the  imperial  yellow. 

The  dwellers  on  the  water  are  not  debarred  from  liv- 
ing on  shore.  A  boat  can  be  built  cheaper  than  a  brick 
house,  and  is  equally  comfortable ;  it  pays  no  ground- 
rent,  is  kept  clean  easier,  and  is  not  so  liable  to  fire  or 
depredations  from  thieves.  Most  of  the  boats  are  con- 
structed of  fir  or  pine  wood,  and  cost  from  thirty  dollars 
up  to  three  or  four  thousand,  and  much  higher  prices  are 
paid  for  sea-boats.  Few  of  them  are  painted  ;  the  wood 
is  bright,  covered  with  varnish  or  oil,  which  gives  them 
rather  a  pretty  appearance ;  the  seams  are  calked  with 
bamboo  or  rattan  shavings  mixed  with  oil,  and  coated 
with  cement.     Most  of  the  sailing-craft  employed  on  the 


CANTON    AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  95 

river  are  flat-bottomed,  with  sharp  bows  and  broad  sterns. 
The  stern  is  open,  and  the  rudder  can  be  hoisted  up  and 
through  it  in  shallow  water.  The  anchors  are  of  wood, 
with  iron-bound  flukes,  and  held  by  cables  made  of 
bamboo. 

The  junks  are  larger  than  the  river-craft ;  they  have 
three  masts,  stepped  in  a  framework,  supported  by  stays, 
but  having  no  yards  or  shrouds.  The  original  model  of 
a  junk  is  said  to  be  a  huge  sea-monster  ;  the  teeth  at  the 
cut-water  and  top  of  the  stem  define  its  mouth,  while  the 
lono;  boards  on  each  side  of  the  bow  form  the  likeness 
of  the  head,  with  eyes  painted  on  them;  the  masts  and 
sails  represent  the  fins,  and  the  high  stern  the  tail.  The 
cabins  look  more  like  niches  in  a  sepulchre  than  for  the 
accommodation  of  passengers.  The  hold  has  no  decks, 
and  is  divided  into  water-tight  compartments,  a  contriv- 
ance that  has  its  advantao;es  when  the  vessel  strikes  a 
rock.  The  channel-wale  is  a  large  beam,  and  in  some 
junks  it  projects  so  much  as  to  give  the  sides  a  bulging 
appearance.  The  quarter-galleries  and  framework  above 
the  stern  are  hio-h,  and  look  dauo:erous  to  the  vessel  in 
heavy  weather.  Many  of  the  new  vessels  now  being- 
built  are  fitted  and  rigged  with  sails  of  canvas  instead  of 
matting.  The  native  commerce  in  junks,  both  up  and 
down  the  coast,  is  extensive ;  and  there  has  been  a  con- 
siderable trade  with  Japan  to  the  north,  and  as  far  south 
as  Hindostan,  with  which  countries  it  is  now  somewhat 
decreasing,  for  the  Chinese  merchants  are  learning  that 
foreign  vessels  are  both  safer  and  cheaper. 

There  have  been  some  fearful  scenes  anions:  this  float- 


96  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

iiig  population  by  tlie  typhoons  wliicli  sweep  over  the 
China  seas  with  great  force,  and  which  are  so  destructive 
to  shipping,  l)ut  seldom  reach  as  far  inland  as  Canton. 
Not  long  ago  an  English  ship  fell  in  witli  the  cargo  and 
crew  of  a  wrecked  junk,  and  saved  one  hundred  and 
ninety-eight  persons  out  of  sixteen  hundred.  It  is  said 
that,  a  few  moments  before  the  typhoon  comes  on,  at  in- 
tervals a  slio-ht  noise  is  heard  whirlino;  around  and  then 
stopping,  sometimes  with  great  force,  and  again  slow; 
then  fiery  clouds  collect  in  the  heavens  in  thick  masses  ; 
the  thunder  sounds  deep  and  heavy,  and  rainbows  ap- 
pear, forming  an  unbroken  curve  with  its  ends  dipped 
into  the  sea ;  the  sea  sends  back  a  bellowing  sound,  and 
boils  with  angry  surges ;  the  loose  rocks  upon  the  shore 
dash  against  each  other.  When  the  height  and  force  of 
the  tempest  are  loose,  rain  descends,  carrying  away  roofs 
of  houses,  and  trees  are  torn  up  by  the  roots ;  horses  and 
cattle  are  blown  from  their  feet,  and  the  ships  and  boats 
upon  the  sea  are  eitlier  swamped  or  blown  on  dry  land, 
while  the  inhabitants  flee  for  tlieir  lives.  Most  of  the 
vessels  lost  upon  the  coasts  of  China  and  Japan  are  by 
typhoons.  The  Chinese  dread  these  gales  so  much  that 
they  have  erected  a  special  temple  to  the  typhoon- 
mother,  a  goddess,  whom  they  suj)plicate  for  protection 
against  them. 

Among  the  princijDal  branches  of  Chinese  industry 
are  the  growth  and  preparation  of  tea,  which  plant  has 
been  most  celebrated  abroad.  The  gradual  introduction 
and  use  of  this  beverag-e  amono*  the  nations  of  the  West- 
ern  woi'ld,  and  the  important   consequences  of  bringing 


CANTON  AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  97 

the  nationalities  of  the  civilized  world  into  more  intimate 
intercourse,  and  opening  to  the  Chinese  the  blessings  of 
Christian  civilization  throuo-h  this  trade,  are  amono;  the 
most  interesting  results  that  have  ever  flowed  from  com- 
merce. The  gradual  demand  for  tea  encouraged  the 
Chinese  to  a  greater  production,  and  to  the  taking  of 
foreign  articles  partly  in  exchange  for  it,  while  the 
governments  of  the  West  have  derived  much  advantage 
from  the  duties.  The  tea-plant  is  not  so  much  cultivated 
about  Canton  as  in  the  north  of  China ;  only  a  few  fields 
alono;  the  Pearl  Hiver  both  belo'w  and  above  Canton  are 
seen.  Its  infusion  forms  a  common  beverage  of  every 
household  for  nearly  two-thirds  of  the  human  race. 

A  knowledge  of  the  tea-plant  among  the  Chinese  can 
be  traced  back  to  the  third  century,  and  its  use  was  in- 
troduced into  Europe  in  the  eighth  century.  The  tea- 
plant  is  from  three  to  six  feet  high,  and  presents  a  dense 
mass  of  foliage  on  an  infinite  number  of  small  twigs,  a 
result  of  the  practice  of  being  cut  down.  Where  it  is 
found  wild  in  the  jungles  it  reaches  the  height  of  thirty 
feet  or  more.  The  leaf  is  of  a  dark-o-reen  color,  of  an  ob- 
long  oval  shape,  and  the  flowers  are  white ;  the  seeds  are 
like  hazel-nuts  in  size  and  color,  three  of  them  being  in- 
closed in  a  hard  husk,  and  contain  oil ;  the  oil  is  said  to 
be  acrid  and  bitter,  and  is  used  for  various  pur2:)oses.  The 
leaves  are  picked  from  the  plant  when  three  years  old, 
but  it  does  not  attain  full  size  before  six  or  seven  years, 
and  thrives,  according  to  circumstances,  and  with  care, 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  years,  being  gradually  killed  by 
constantly  depriving   it    of  its  foliage.      By    continual 


98  AEOUWB    THE    WORLD. 

pruning,  tlie  twigs  increase,  and  the  quantity  of  leaves 
develops  the  branches,  so  that  the  large,  healthy  shrubs 
resemble  a  collection  rather  than  a  sino-le  bush.  The 
annual  product  of  a  single  plant  of  large  size  is  said  to 
be  from  six  to  eight  ounces,  and  that  a  thousand  square 
yards  of  land  contain  between  three  and  four  hundred 
plants. 

Three  crops  of  leaves  are  gathered  annually.  The 
first  picking  is  about  the  middle  of  April,  or  whenever 
the  tender  leaf-buds  begin  to  open,  and  while  the  leaves 
are  still  covered  with  a  whitish  down;  the  flowers, 
though  not  very  numerous,  produce  the  finest  tea.  The 
second  gathering  is  about  tbe  first  of  May,  when  the 
shrubs  are  covered  with  full-sized  leaves.  Chinese  writ- 
ers say  that  the  weather  has  great  influence  upon  the 
condition  of  the  leaves,  and  that  an  excess  or  a  want  of 
rain  mildews  or  withers  them,  so  as  materially  to  aifect 
the  quality  and  quantity  of  the  crop.  When  the  proper 
time  has  arrived,  a  large  number  of  hands  are  engaged 
to  gather  the  leaves  rapidly,  giving  employment  to  men, 
women,  and  children.  The  leaves  are  collected  by  hand- 
fuls,  by  stripping  them  oif  the  branches  as  rapidly  as 
possible,  and  throwing  them  into  baskets  slung  around 
the  neck,  in  which  tliey  are  taken  to  the  storehouses. 
Each  person  can  on  an  average  pick  thirteen  pounds  of 
leaves  in  a  day,  for  which  the  picker  receives  about  six 
cents.  The  third  crop  is  collected  about  the  middle  of 
July,  and  there  is  also  a  fourth  gleaning  in  the  latter 
part  of  August.  The  first  two  crops  of  leaves  make  the 
best  tea,  and  the  last  two  gatherings  afford  only  inferior 


CANTON   AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  99 

kinds,  seldom  imported  and  used  for  home  consump- 
tion.  The  quality  of  the  different  kinds  of  tea  depends 
almost  as  much  upon  the  mode  of  curing  as  upon  the 
nature  of  the  soil,  or  age  of  the  leaf;  some  sorts  are 
quite  changed  in  their  particular  flavor  by  the  curing 
and  mixing  processes  they  undergo.  After  the  leaves 
are  gathered  and  housed,  they  are  carefully  assorted  and 
the  yellow  and  old  ones  picked  out ;  then  they  ai-e  thinly 
spread  upon  bamboo  trays  and  placed  upon  frames  in 
the  wind,  where  they  remain  until  the  leaves  begin  to 
soften  ;  then  they  are  gently  rolled  and  rubbed  until  red 
spots  begin  to  appear,  when  they  are  tested  by  pouring 
hot  water  upon  them  to  see  if  the  edge  of  the  leaf  turns 
yellowish.  When  the  leaves  have  been  rolled,  they  are 
ready  for  firing.  The  iron  pan  having  been  previously 
heated,  the  workman  takes  a  handful  of  leaves  and 
sprinkles  them  upon  it,  and  waits  until  each  leaf  pops^ 
when  he  brushes  them  off  before  they  are  charred.  The 
pans  sit  in  iron  boilers  upon  mason-work  in  an  inclined 
position,  and  at  a  convenient  height  in  rows,  and  are 
heated  by  means  of  a  flue  passing  lengthwise  under  the 
whole.  The  heat  soon  forces  the  oil  out  of  the  leaves, 
when  they  crack  and  soften,  and  after  four  or  five  min- 
utes are  taken  out  into  trays  for  rolling.  This  operation 
is  performed  upon  tables  made  of  split  bamboos  laid 
close  together,  with  their  round  sides  up.  The  work- 
men take  handfuls  of  the  hot  leaves  and  roll  and  knead 
them  upon  the  table,  in  order  to  drive  out  the  oily  green, 
which  fidls  through  the  bamboo  sticks  upon  the  floor. 
After  the  leaves  are  thus  properly  rolled,  they  are 


100  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

shaken  out  loosely  upon  trays  and  exposed  to  tte  air  to 
complete  the  drying;  the  object  is  to  dry  tliem  in  the 
gentlest  manner,  that  they  may  not  lose  their  brittleness, 
nor  become  crisp  in  the  sun.  After  undergoing  this  pro- 
cess of  air-drying,  they  are  again  thrown  in  large  quan- 
tities into  the  pans,  which  are  heated  to  a  less  degree 
than  before,  and  there  stirred,  in  order  that  all  may  be 
equally  dried  and  none  be  scorched. 

In  some  parts  of  China  the  process  here  described 
varies.  After  the  leaves  have  been  put  into  the  firing- 
2:)an  to  be  subjected,  to  the  heat,  then  rolled  upon  the 
table  and  exposed  to  the  sun,  instead  of  being  returned 
to  the  2^ans  they  are  scattered  upon  a  fine  sieve  and 
placed  over  the  same  iire,  the  iron  pan  having  been  taken 
out.  This  fire  is  of  charcoal,  covered  with  ashes  to  pre- 
vent smoking  the  leaves,  and  while  over  it  they  are 
slowly  turned  until  thoroughly  dried ;  they  are  then 
removed  to  coarser  sieves,  and  the  fine  and  coarse  leaves 
in  this  way  partially  separated  before  packing.  This 
mode  of  drying  gives  the  leaves  a  greenish  cast,  varying 
in  degree  according  to  the  length  of  time  they  are  ex- 
posed to  the  sun  and  fire.  The  common  sorts  of  black 
tea  are  left  in  the  sun  and  air,  after  the  first  process  of 
firing  and  rolling,  a  much  longer  time — even  for  two  or 
three  days — until  a  partial  decomposition  of  the  leaves 
has  begun  from  the  eftects  of  the  heating  and  squeezing 
they  have  undergone ;  they  are,  moreover,  again  thrown 
into  the  pans,  and  rolled  and  stirred  about  for  a  longer 
time  when  intended  for  exportation  than  when  put  up 
for  domestic  use. 


CANTON  AND    ITS   SIGHTS. 


101 


The  question  lias  often  T)een  discussed  wliether  black 
and  green  teas  are  made  from  the  same  plant,  and  whether 
they  can  be  made  from  each  other.  I  am  informed  that 
l)oth  black  and  green  are  made  of  the  same  leaves,  the 
ditfereuce  in  the  color  being  ascribed  to  the  mode  of 
preparation;  green  tea  is  cured  more  rapidly  over  the 
fire  than  black. 

The  opinion  prevails  that  the  nervous  effects  usually 
experit^nced  after  drinking  green   tea  are  owing  to  its 


TEA-HOUSE. 


being  cured  upon  coj)per.  I  am  informed  that  coj^per 
vessels  are  never  used.  In  Japan  I  was  in  one  or  two 
of  the  largest  tea-houses ;  there  the  drying  was  done  in 
iron  vessels,  and  I  did  not  see  a  copper  one  in  use.  The 
principal  cause  of  the  peculiar  taste  of  green  tea  is  as- 
cribed to  the  use  of  chemical  substances  to  give  it  the 
desii^ed  color. 

A  great  part  of  the  tea  produced  in  China  is  brought 


102  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

to  Canton,  more  than  a  thousand  miles  from  the  place 
of  its  growth.  The  Chinese  will,  no  doubt,  maintain 
their  supremacy  in  the  tea-trade,  notwithstanding  the 
efforts  to  grow  the  plant  in  other  countries.  The  native 
names  given  to  the  various  sorts  of  tea  are  derived  from 
the  names  of  the  districts  or  places  in  which  it  grows. 

December  3d. — Both  in  China  and  Japan  men  may 
be  seen  carrying  through  the  streets  portable  kitchens, 
suspended  from  a  pole  about  six  feet  long,  which  rests 
upon  their  shoulders.  On  one  end  is  suspended  a  small 
stove,  and  on  the  other  food ;  they  stop  at  intervals  to 
deal  out  to  the  coolies  hot  tea  and  chow.  It  is  also  com- 
mon to  see  barbers  traveling  through  the  streets  with  a 
pot  of  hot  water  to  shave  the  heads  of  the  coolies,  and 
to  plat  their  cues ;  but  the  men  have  smooth  faces  and 
no  whiskers. 

December  Mli. — This  morning  at  nine  o'clock  we  take 
leave  of  the  great  Celestial  city  for  Hong-Kong,  distance 
ninety  miles.  In  going  down  the  river  we  see  some  fine 
tea  and  sugar  plantations.  The  captain  of  our  steamer 
on  the  King-Shan  informed  us  that,  on  leaving  port,  they 
lock  the  second-class  passengers  below-decks,  and  keep 
a  sentinel  during  the  voyage  pacing  the  forward  deck, 
watching  the  gangway.  In  the  main  cabin,  a  number 
of  swords  and  muskets  hung  upon  the  joiner-work,  to 
be  used  in  case  the  ship  should  be  attacked  by  pirates, 
which  is  a  common  occurrence  in  the  China  seas. 

Only  last  week,  a  passenger-boat  from  up  the  coast, 
on  her  passage  to  Canton,  was  attacked  by  pirates,  who 
killed  part  of  the  steamer's  crew  and  plundered  the  ves- 


CANTON   AND    ITS    SIGHTS.  IQS 

sel.  It  is  said  that  the  China  seas  are  infested  with 
pirates.  These  piratical  craft  are  strongly  equipped 
with  men  having  fire-arms,  who  stay  and  live  at  sea 
until  they  have  taken  a  prize,  when  the  booty  is  landed 
upon  one  of  the  lonely  islands,  some  of  which  are  in- 
habited by  cannibals.  Both  in  Japan  and  China,  for  the 
better  protection  of  property  and  life,  the  merchant-ves- 
sels sail  in  fleets.  At  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we 
arrived  in  Hong-Kong,  and  put  up  at  the  Hong-Kong 
Hotel ;  board  two  dollars  and  a  half  per  day. 

December  oth. — This  being  the  Sal)bath,  we  attend 
the  Union  Church,  where  all  the  Protestant  denomina- 
tions assemble.  The  edifice  was  neat  and  tolerably  well 
filled. 


CHAPTEK   X. 

RELIGION    OF   THE    CHI]S^ESE. 

In  order  to  a  right  understanding  of  Chinese  char- 
acter and  civilization,  some  knowledge  of  the  system  of 
idolatry  which  prevails  in  the  empire,  and  of  the  relig- 
ious beliefs  of  the  people,  is  absolutely  necessary ;  l)ut 
the  real  religious  belief  and  practices  of  a  heathen  Y>eo- 
ple  are  difficult  to  describe  intelligibly.  Men  naturally 
exercise  much  freedom  of  thought  in  such  matters ;  and, 
though  it  is  comparatively  easy  to  describe  religious 
ceremonies  and  festivals,  the  real  l)elief  of  a  pagan  peo- 
ple— that  which  constitutes  their  religion,  their  trust  in 
danger  and  guide  in  doubt,  their  prompter  to  present 
action  and  hope  for  future  reward — is  not  quickly  un- 
derstood nor  easily  described.  There  has  been  much 
written  upon  the  religion  of  the  Chinese,  and  yet  no  one 
has  very  satisfactorily  given  the  true  nature  of  their  be- 
lief, and  the  intent  of  their  ritual.  The  reason  is  owins^ 
partly  to  the  indefinite  ideas  of  the  people  themselves 
upon  the  character  of  their  ceremonies,  and  their  inability 
to  give  a  clear  notion  of  them,  and  partly  to  the  variety 
of  observances  found  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
and  the  discordant  opinions  entertained  by  those  belong- 
ing to  the  same  sect,  so  that  what  is  seen  in  one  district 
is  sometimes  not  known  in  the  one  adjacent. 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  JQS 

There  is  a  state  religion  in  China  of  very  ancient 
date,  which  has  undergone  few  modifications  in  its  feat- 
ures during  the  long  succession  of  monarch s,  and  it  still 
retains  much  of  its  primitive  simplicity.  Dr.  Morrison 
observes  that  the  state  relio-ion  of  the  Chinese  does  not 
consist  of  doctrines  whicli  are  to  be  taught,  learned,  and 
believed,  but  of  rites  and  ceremonies ;  it  is  entirely  a 
bodily  service,  and  its  ritual  is  contained  in  the  statistics 
and  code  of  the  empire.  The  objects  of  state  worship 
are  chiefly  things,  although  persons  are  also  included. 
Sacrifices  are  ofl'ered  to  many  objects,  viz. :  the  sun,  or 
great  light ;  the  moon,  or  night-light ;  fire,  because  it 
gives  both  light  and  heat ;  clouds,  rain,  wind,  and  thunder, 
seas  and  rivers,  the  goddess  of  the  earth,  and  many  other 
things.  Those  who  assist  the  em2:)eror  in  his  ordinary 
worship,  and  perform  the  ceremonies,  belong  to  the  im- 
perial family.  When  he  worships  heaven,  he  wears  robes 
of  a  blue  color,  in  allusion  to  the  sky ;  and  when  he  wor- 
ships earth,  he  puts  on  yellow,  to  represent  clay.  So 
likewise  he  wears  red  for  the  sun,  and  pale  white  for 
the  moon.  The  princes,  nobles,  and  imperial  officers 
who  assist  the  emperor,  are  clad  in  their  usual  court 
dresses,  but  neither  priests  nor  women  are  admitted  to 
witness  or  allowed  to  take  part  in  the  ceremonies. 

The  hieropliants  in  this  worship  of  Nature,  so  lauded 
by  some  infidels,  are  required  to  prepare  themselves  for 
the  occasion  by  fasting,  ablutions,  and  change  of  gar- 
ments, and  keep  from  touching  the  dead ;  for  sickness 
and  death  defile,  and  unfit  the  mind  for  holding  com- 
munion with  tlie  gods.     The  sacrifices  consist  of  calves, 


10(3 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


bullocks,  sheep,  pigs,  and  tlie  offerings  of  silk,  and  many 
other  things ;  every  one  is  willing  to  worship  whatever 
can  promise  relief  or  afford  assistance. 

The  remarks  of  Confucius  upon  religious  subjects 
were  very  brief.  He  never  taught  the  duty  of  man  to 
any  higher  power  than  the  head  of  the  state  or  family, 


!  1 1  i !  1 1 1 1 1  h  iT 


'iiiUH' 


S:  lilli'i: 


IMAGE   OF  CONFUCIUS. 


although  he  supj^osed  himself  commissioned  by  Heaven 
to  restore  the  doctrine  and  usao;es  of  the  ancient  kino;s. 
He  admitted  that  he  did  not  understand  much  about 
the  gods,  that  they  were  beyond  and  above  the  compre- 
hension of  man,  and  that  the  obligations  upon  men  were 
in  doing  their  duty  to  relatives,  and  the  society  in  which 


RELIGION'    OF    THE    CHINESE.  107 

they  moved,  rather  than  in  worshiping  spirits  unknown. 
He  said,  ''Not  knowing  even  life,  how  can  we  know 
death  ? "  His  system  of  materialism  captivates  his  coun- 
trymen, for  it  allows  great  scope  for  the  vagaries  of  every 
individual  who  thinks  he  understands  and  can  apply  it 
to  explain  whatever  phenomena  come  in  his  way :  heat 
and  cold,  light  and  darkness,  fire  and  water,  mind  and 
matter,  every  agent,  power,  and  substance,  known  and 
supposed,  are  endued  with  these  principles,  and  their 
infinite  reactions  and  varied  consequences  explained  by 
them.  His  system  is  also  entirely  silent  respecting  the 
immortality  of  the  soul,  as  well  as  future  rewards  and 
punishments.  Virtue  is  rewarded  and  vice  is  punished 
in  the  individual,  or  in  his  posterity,  on  earth,  but  of  a 
separate  state  of  existence  he  and  his  disciples  do  not 
speak. 

In  disposing  of  the  existence  of  superior  powers,  the 
philosophers  do  not  shut  out  all  intelligent  agencies,  but 
have  instituted  a  class  of  sages  or  pure-minded  men,  who 
have  been  raised  up  from  time  to  time  by  Heaven,  or 
some  other  power,  as  instructors  and  examples  to  man- 
kind ;  the  ofiice  of  these  holy  men,  or  saints,  was  to  ex- 
pound the  will  of  Heaven  on  earth:  they  did  not  so 
much  speak  their  own  thoughts  as  illustrate  and  settle 
the  principles  on  which  the  world  should  be  governed. 
Of  all  the  saints  in  the  calendar  Confucius  is  the  chief. 
With  him  are  reckoned  the  early  kings,,  as  Yan  and 
Shun ;  but  China  has  produced  no  one  since  that  would 
equal  him.  The  deceased  emperors  of  the  reigning 
dynasty  are  canonized  as  saints ;  every  one  is  willing  to 


108  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

worship  whatever  can  give  relief  or  afford  the  greatest 
assistance ;  but  all  alike  fail  in  satisfying  the  desire  of 
pardon  of  sin,  and  answering  the  question,  "  How  shall  a 
man  be  just  with  his  God '{ "  for  no  one  of  their  modes 
of  worship  reaches  the  heart,  or  convinces  the  soul  of  its 
accountability,  or  shows  it  the  way  to  true  happiness. 

There  is  another  sect  of  rationalists  founded  by 
Lao-tse.  He  was  born  604  b.  c,  thirty-four  years  before 
Confacius,  and  is  believed  to  have  had  white  hair  and 
eyebrows  at  his  birth.  x\ccording  to  the  account  given 
by  Pauthier,  who  has  examined  his  history  with  some 
attention,  his  parents  were  poor,  and,  after  reaching 
mature  years,  he  was  appointed  librarian  by  the  emperor, 
when  he  diligently  applied  himself  to  the  study  of 
ancient  books,  and  became  acquainted  with  all  the  rites 
and  histories  of  former  times.  The  teaching  of  Lao-tse 
recommends  retirement  and  contemplation  as  the  most 
effectual  means  of  purifying  the  spiritual  part  of  our 
nature.  He  says :  All  material  visible  forms  are  only 
emanations  of  reason;  and  reason  formed  all  beings. 
All  the  visible  parts  of  the  universe,  all  beings  compos- 
ing it,  the  heavens  and  the  entire  solar  system,  have  been 
formed  of  the  first  elementary  matter.  Before  the  birth 
of  heaven  and  earth,  there  existed  only  an  immeasurable 
void  space  in  the  midst  of  darkness  and  silence.  Eeason 
alone,  Lao-tse  says,  produced  one,  one  produced  two,  two 
produced  three,  and  three  made  all  things.  All  beings 
repose  on  the  feminine  piinciple,  and  they  embrace  the 
male  principle ;  a  kind  of  fecundating  breath  keeps  up 
their  harmony.    He  also  teaches^the  emanation  and  return 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  109 

of  all  good  beings  into  the  bosom  of  Keason,  and  their 
eternal  existence  therein  ;  but,  if  not  good,  the  miseries 
of  successive  births  and  their  accompanying  sorrows 
await  them. 

One  of  the  most  celebrated  rationalistic  writers  is 
Chwang-toz,  a  disciple  of  Lao-tse,  from  whom  his  fol- 
lowers derive  more  of  their  opinions  than  their  master 
himself.  His  writings  have  been  repeatedly  commented 
upon  by  members  of  the  fraternity,  and  are  referred  to 
as  authoritative.  In  ancient  times  small  parties  of  them 
retired  to  secluded  places  to  meditate  upon  virtue. 
When  Confncius  visited  Lao-tse,  he  upbraided  the  sage 
for  his  ambition  in  collecting  so  many  disciples  and  seek- 
ing after  office,  and  added  that  such  a  course  of  conduct 
was  more  likely  to  nourish  pride  than  cherish  the  love 
of  virtue  and  \visdom.  He  said  the  wise  man  loves  ob- 
scurity, and  avoids  ambition  of  office,  persuaded  that,  at 
the  end  of  life,  a  man  can  onlv  leave  V)ehind  such  good 
maxims  as  he  has  practised  and  taught  to  others. 

Confucius  understood  his  countrymen  and  his  own 
duty  much  better  than  Lao-tse,  in  doing  all  he  could,  by 
precept  and  practice,  to  show  the  excellence  of  what  he 
believed  to  be  right  and  just. 

The  priests  of  this  sect  are  numerous ;  they  live  in 
temples,  cultivating  the  ground  attached  to  the  establish- 
ment. Some  lead  a  wandering  life,  and  procure  a  liveli- 
hood from  the  sale  of  chjirms  and  other  small  articles. 
They  shave  the  sides  of  the  head,  and  coil  the  rest  of  the 
hair  in  a  tuft  upon  the  crown,  and  are  recognized  by 
their  slate-colored   robes.      They  study   astrology,   and 


110  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

profess  to  have  dealings  with  spirits ;  and  their  books 
contain  a  great  variety  of  stories  of  the  sect,  and  of 
priests  who  have  done  wonderful  acts  by  their  help. 

Buddhism  is  the  principal  religion  of  China  and  of 
the  whole  of  Eastern  Asia.  According  to  the  best 
Oriental  scholars,  Siddhartha,  the  son  of  Suddhodana, 
king  of  a  large  territory  on  the  confines  of  Oude  and 
Nepaul,  was  born  about  the  beginning  of  the  sixth  cen- 
tury before  Christ.  At  the  age  of  thirty  he  fled  from  his 
father's  kingdom  and  became  religious,  diligently  study- 
ing the  law  of  the  Brahmans.  Finding  this  unsatisfactory, 
he  secluded  himself  from  the  world,  and  for  many  years 
occupied  himself  in  endeavoring  to  discover  the  cause  of 
thino;s.  Havino;  at  leno-th,  as  he  thouo:ht,  succeeded,  he 
cliano-ed  his  name  to  Buddha,  and  devoted  the  rest  of 
his  life  to  preaching  the  new  gospel,  whereby  the  world 
was  to  be  led  to  the  knowledge  of  the  truth.  His  con- 
verts were  many  and  influential,  several  of  the  royal 
families  becoming  earnest  and  devoted  to  the  new  religion. 
Buddha  died  at  the  age  of  eighty  years. 

Buddhism  has  assumed  difterent  forms  iu  different 
countries.  A  distinction  is  made  between  southern 
Buddhism  as  it  is  found  in  Ceylon  and  that  which  prevails 
in  the  north  of  China.  The  religious  books  of  northern 
Buddhism  are  in  Sanskrit ;  those  of  southern  Buddhism 
are  in  Pali,  a  language  of  more  recent  origin.  The  north- 
ern Buddhists  have  also  added  books,  and  dialectics,  not 
known  elsewhere. 

In  Thibet  the  system  is  connected  with  a  religious 
hierarchy,  exercising  political  power,  at  the  head  of  which 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  -[  \  ] 

is  the  grand  lama,  wlio  is  regarded  as  tlie  iuc-arnation  of 
Buddha.  AVhen  the  grand  Lima  dies,  the  priests  fix 
upon  some  infant  into  whose  body  the  spirit  of  the  de- 
ceased lama  is  supposed  to  have  passed,  and  the  infant 
becomes  the  next  grand  lama.  But  in  China  no  such 
religious  hierarchy  has  been  tolerated,  and  Buddhism  ex- 
ists without  lamas. 

The  distinctive  characteristic  of  the  Buddhist  system 
is  a  belief  in  a  benevolent  deity,  whose  special  object 
and  care  it  is  to  save  men  from  sin  and  its  evil  conse- 
quences ;  and  also  in  the  doctrine  of  the  transmigration 
of  souls,  and  the  efficacy  of  good  works.  In  accordance 
with  these  doctrines,  Buddhism  consists  of  prayers  to  the 
numerous  gods,  for  the  anticipated  wants  of  the  saints  in 
Hades,  and  also  for  deceased  relatives  and  friends. 

Temples  erected  to  the  worship  of  this  deity  are  found 
in  every  part  of  the  empire,  and  are  numerous,  costly, 
and  imposing.  The  theory  of  Buddhism  requires  its 
temples  to  be  Ijuilt  in  retired  places  among  the  hills,  for 
the  sake  of  the  quiet  and  seclusion  which  such  places 
afford.  Acct)rdingly,  most  of  the  temples  connected  with 
this  sect,  which  are  not  erected  in  cities  and  towns  for 
the  convenience  of  the  devotees,  are  found  in  the  most 
beautiful  and  romantic  situations  which  the  country 
affords. 

Some  of  the  temples  have  pagodas  connected  with 
them,  which  are  towers,  of  five  to  seven  stories,  sub--^ 
stantially  built   of  stone  or  brick.     They  form   a  very 
characteristic  and  beautiful  feature  in  Chinese  landscapes. 
Many  of  them  sho^v  evidences  of  great  antiquity.     They 


112  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

were  probably  built  originally  to  be  tlie  repositories  of 
some  valuable  relics,  or  to  commemorate  some  noted 
person.  Occasionally  one  is  found  to  contain  idols. 
The  idols  are  manufactured  of  the  different  metals,  or  of 
stone  or  clay.  The  largest  are  made  of  wood  covered 
with  mortar,  and  gilded  on  tlie  outside  with  golddeaf,  and 
in  some  cases  they  are  painted  in  different  colors.  It  is 
considered  essential  that  all  idols,  both  large  and  small, 
should  be  supplied  with  artificial  entrails  which  repre- 
sent the  living  sj^irit,"  without  which  the  god  would  be 
regarded  as  worthless.  Sometimes  pearls  and  precious 
stones,  or  live  snakes  or  other  re])tiles,  are  added,  which 
are  lodged  in  the  body  through  a  hole  in  the  back.  These 
images  are  generally  well  executed  as  to  their  forms. 
These  facts  are  worthy  of  notice,  as  indicative  of  the 
character  of  the  people,  and  the  art  with  which  Satan 
suits  the  forms  of  idolatry  to  the  minds  of  his  deluded 
victims. 

The  general  appearance  of  the  large  Buddhist  temples 
is  grand  and  imposing  in  their  architectural  taste  and 
skill.  They  are  well  proportioned,  and  in  each  one  the 
plan  of  the  interior  is  suited  to  the  size  and  number  of 
the  idols  which  it  is  to  contain.  The  large  roofs  are 
covered  with  tiling,  said  to  last  more  than  half  a  century 
without  repair.  The  interiors  are  ornamented  with 
elaborate  carvings  in  wood  and  stone,  and  have  a  great 
variety  of  inscriptions  on  the  walls  and  pillars. 

Buddhist  priests  profess  to  live  on  a  vegetable  diet, 
which  consists  principally  of  red  rice,  and  wear  no  clothes 
made  of  wool  or  the  skins  of  animals,  as  they  consider  it 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  II3 

a  crime  to  take  animal  life.  They  also  shave  the  whole 
head,  and  wear  garments  peculiar  to  their  order,  consist- 
ing of  a  single  blanket  wrapped  around  the  l>ody.  Many 
of  them  hav'e  marks  burnc-  upon  their  heads  or  arms,  as 
the  evidence  of  merit.  Some  of  the  younger  priests  are 
engaged  to  a  certain  extent  about  the  monastery  or  in 
tilling  the  soil,  l)ut  these  duties  are  for  the  most  part 
performed  by  hired  laborers,  while  the  priests  lead  a  life 
of  ease  and  indolence.  Some  of  them  sj^end  the  most  of 
their  lives  in  the  same  monastery,  and  some  have  a  rov- 
ing propensity,  traveling  over  the  greater  part  of  China; 
they  easily  beg  their  way  as  they  go,  and  find  convenient 
lodgings  in  the  monasteries  of  their  OAvn  order.  They 
generally  carry  with  them  a  passport  or  introduction  from 
a  superior  with  whom  they  are  acquainted.  Without 
this,  however,  the  laws  of  their  order  give  them  the  j)riv- 
ilege  of  stopping  at  any  place  for  rest  and  refreshment. 

The  best  recommendation  is  said  to  consist  in  quali- 
fications for  earning  money.  Each  monastery  is  regarded 
as  a  large  household,  and,  when  priests  earn  money,  part 
of  it  is  expected  to  go  to  the  establishment.  In  conse- 
quence of  the  traveling  propensities  of  these  priests,  large 
monasteries  present  striking  instances  of  the  confusion 
of  tongues,  and  frequently  priests  of  the  same  order  can- 
not understand  each  other  without  a  third  person  to  act 
as  interpreter.  The  number  of  priests  in  these  establish- 
ments varies,  often  several  hundred  being  placed  in  the 
same  monastery. 

The  incomes  of  monasteries  are  derived  from  the  vol- 
untary contributions  of  the  people ;  money  paid  to  the 


114  ABOUND    2 HE   WORLD. 

priests  in  remuneration  for  their  services  at  funerals^ 
which  goes  to  their  support ;  and  the  proceeds  of  the 
lands  with  which  many  of  them  have  heen  endowed. 
The  specific  duties  of  the  priesthood  are  chanting,  per- 
forming different  ceremonies  in  the  temples,  and  begging. 
The  chanting  of  a  regular  and  formal  service  is  performed 
mornino^  and  evenino;,  and  is  carried  on  in  connection 
with  the  burning  of  incense  and  candles,  prostration,  the 
beating  of  drums  and  bells,  and  pacing  backward  and 
forward,  bowing  to  the  idols  ;  the  whole  performance 
lasts  about  an  hour.  In  case  a  temple  or  monastery  is 
out  of  repair,  priests  are  sent  to  solicit  subscriptions  from 
door  to  door.  AVealthy  individuals,  and  sometimes  offi- 
cers, give  large  sums,  influenced  partly  by  a  desii'e  to 
be  seen  and  praised  of  men,  and  partly  by  the  hope  of 
securing  happiness  in  a  future  state. 

Connected  with  most  of  the  large  Buddhist  temples 
are  some  priests  distinguished  from  their  class  by  living 
in  rude  huts,  or  caves  among  the  hills,  in  the  greatest 
retirement.  Their  time  is  principally  spent  in  kee23ing 
the  taper  lighted  before  their  gods,  reciting  their  chants, 
and  cooking  their  simple  meals.  While  professing  to 
seek  this  retirement  for  the  sake  of  meditation,  they 
seem  almost  to  lose  their  power  of  thinking.  They  are 
in  these  secluded  places  supported  by  the  contributions 
of  friends  and  temple-worshipers,  and  by  suj^plies  from 
the  monastery  with  which  they  are  connected.  It  is 
commonly  reported  and  believed  that  those  who  live 
thus  attain  to  greater  longevity,  and  require  very  little 
sustenance  to  support  life. 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  H^ 

There  are  otter  priests  who  spend  their  time  in  closed 
rooms  or  cells ;  these  are  connected  also  with  the  lai-ger 
establishments.  They  commence  their  secluded  life  with 
considerable  formality.  On  an  appointed  day  they  enter 
the  room  or  rooms  which  are  to  be  their  future  abode, 
and  all  the  doors  are  sealed  by  numerous  strips  of  paper, 
on  which  is  written,  in  large  characters,  a  statement  of 
the  day  when  the  confinement  commenced,  and  how  long 
it  is  to  continue.  Only  one  small  hole  is  left  in  the  wall, 
throug-h  which  articles  are  handed  in  and  out.  Here 
the  blind  devotee  immures  himself  for  years,  and  per- 
haps for  life.  Priests  sometimes  take  refuge  in  the 
cloistered  cells  to  escape  punishment,  after  having  broken 
their  vows  by  the  commission  of  crimes.  Sometimes 
rich  men,  who  are  unwilling  to  devote  themselves  to  a 
life  of  seclusion,  pay  the  priests,  and  provide  them  at  the 
same  time  with  food,  that  they  shall  offer  up  prayers  in 
their  behalf. 

Connected  with  the  religion  of  Buddhism  is  a  large 
number  of  nunneries.  With  regard  to  the  worship  per- 
formed in  these  institutions,  and  the  manner  in  which 
they  are  supported  and  theii'  affairs  conducted,  they 
differ  very  little  from  the  monasteries.  It  is  said,  as  re- 
gards the  character  and  practices  of  their  inmates,  that, 
with  few  exceptions,  their  re23utation  is  far  from  being 
above  suspicion. 

J.  ♦ 

The  worshipers  in  Buddhist  temples  are  for  the 
most  part  women,  and  these  are  generally  advanced  in 
age  ;  but  the  young  women,  according  to  the  customs  of 
the  country,  are  forbidden   to   appear  in  public.     The 


116  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

older  women,  having  but  little  to  do,  and  reminded  by 
their  age  of  the  necessity  of  preparing  for  a  future  state, 
spend  much  of  their  time  in  the  temples.  In  conse- 
quence of  the  inferior  station  of  women  in  China,  and 
their  peculiar  trials,  being  a  woman  is  regarded  as  a 
great  misfortune ;  but  they  console  themselves  with  the 
hope  that  their  earnest  devotions  at  the  temple,  or 
shrines  of  Buddha,  will  gain  them  the  privilege  of  beingj 
changed  into  men  in  the  future  state. 

There  are  twelve  or  fifteen  days  in  the  year  on  ^vhich 
a  small  amount  of  tich  can  be  obtained.  The  women 
generally  get  about  this  number  of  days  yearly,  but 
those  detained  at  home  by  sickness  or  other  causes  are 
not  able  to  come  to  the  temple  on  the  regular  tich  days. 
For  the  consideration  of  a  few  small  coins  the  priests 
allow  their  names  to  he  enrolled,  and  they  can  send  for 
the  tich  at  any  time  and  chant  over  it  at  home. 

On  worship-days  a  great  number  of  women  may  be 
seen  slowly  making  their  way  to  their  chosen  place  of 
devotion.  They  generally  go  in  small  companies,  carry- 
ing with  them  a  little  basket  containing  candles  and 
incense-sticks.  They  are  always  dressed  in  their  best 
clothes,  as  it  would  be  considered  disrespectful  to  the 
gods  to  appear  before  them  in  theii"  every-day  apparel ; 
and  they  hope  also,  by  their  dress  and  behavioi*,  to  pro- 
duce the  impression  upon  the  gods  that  they  are  persons 
in  better  circumstances  than  they  really  are. 

At  the  temple  the  worship  is  conducted  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner :  A  few  candles  are  lighted  and  placed 
before  the  gods  either   by   the  worshiper  or  priest  in 


RELIGION    OF   THE    CHINESE.  n^ 

attendance ;  incense-sticks  are  also  liglited  and  placed  in 
the  large  bowl  of  ashes  before  each  idol,  or  the  one  to 
which  the  individual  expects  to  pay  homage  ;  the  design 
of  the  worshiper  in  doing  this  is  to  apprise  the  gods  of 
her  presence  and  intentions.  These  incense-sticks  are 
about  a  foot  long,  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter ; 
when  the  sticks  have  been  lit  and  properly  arranged,  the 
worshiper  bows  again  and  again,  and  at  length  prostrates 
herself  upon  the  floor. 

Usually  large  numbers  of  people  may  be  seen  at  the 
Buddhist  and  other  temples  on  the  1st  and  15th  of  each 
month,  and  also  on  the  birthdays  of  the  different  gods. 
Special  visits  are  made  for  special  purposes  at  all  times. 
Some  go  to  pray  for  children  ;  some  to  seek  for  an  omen 
or  ask  advice  in  cases  of  exigency  or  perplexity ;  some  to 
procure  medicine  for  sick  persons,  and  others  to  make 
vows.  Sometimes,  in  extreme  cases,  advice  is  obtained 
by  the  worshiper  taking  in  his  hand  a  little  box  opened 
at  the  top,  containing  a  number  of  small  labeled  wooden 
sticks,  which  he  shakes  in  front  of  the  idol  until  one  of 
them  falls  out.  The  number  written  on  this  stick  points 
out  the  corresponding  slip  of  paper  in  a  book  where  the 
desired  answer  may  be  found ;  this  is  written  in  large 
letters,  indicating  whether  the  matter  in  question  will 
terminate  favorably  or  unfavorably.  The  same  device  is 
used  in  asking  for  medicine,  though  the  god  interrogated 
is  different,  and  the  slip  of  paper  contains  medical  pre- 
scriptions only.  As  a  general  rule,  the  Chinese  have 
physicians,  who  are  often  called  to  administer  to  the  sick. 

Vows  are  made  in  cases  of  distress  and  uncertainty; 


118  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


* 


the  person  assuming  a  vow,  in  order  to  secure  the  assist- 
ance and  protection  of  some  deity,  promises  to  provide 
something  very  good  for  the  god  to  look  at,  or  to  feed 
hungry  ghosts,  or  to  furnish  new  clothes  for  some  idol 
in  the  temple.  Some  of  the  gods  not  painted,  or  covered 
with  gold-leaf,  wear  a  variety  of  clothes,  which  are 
chano-ed  with  the  chano-ino-  seasons. 

Ancestral  temples  are  numerous  in  China ;  almost 
every  small  village  contains  one,  most  of  these  villages 
being  composed  principally  of  inhabitants  of  the  same 
name  or  family.  These  ancestral  temples  are  the  most 
sacred  sj^ots  on  earth  to  a  Chinaman  :  here  rei^ose  the 
spirits  of  his  ancestors  ;  this  is  the  place  for  family  meet- 
ings on  sncrihcial  days ;  here  he  expects  that  his  spirit 
will  find  its  last  resting-place,  and  share  in  the  homage 
and  ojfferings  of  future  generations.  These  facts  relating 
to  ancestral  worship  explain  the  anxiety  of  the  Chinese 
who  visit  our  Western  coast  of  America  to  have  their 
bodies  carried  back  to  their  homes  in  case  of  death. 
They  wish  their  dust  to  mingle  with  that  of  their  an- 
cestors, and  their  spirits  to  be  restored  to  their  ancestral 
temples,  else  they  would  be  unhoused,  unfed,  uncared 
for — wandering,  starving,  homeless  ghosts  in  a  foreign 
land,  than  which  condition  nothino;  can  be  more  dreaded 
by  them. 

There  is  another  kind  of  worship  practised,  that  of 
the  kitchen-god  so  called,  which  occupies  an  important 
place  in  the  national  religious  rites.  This  form  of  idola- 
try is  as  ancient  as  the  one  just  described,  and  as  univer- 
sal, being  practised  in  every  family.     The  kitchen-god 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE. 


119 


has  uo  temple,  uor  images.  It  is  worshiped  under  the 
representation  of  an  engraved  paper,  generally  about  a 
foot  square,  pasted  on  the  kitchen-range.  This  style  of 
worship  may  l)e  regarded  as  the  household  divinity  of 
China ;  it  is  supposed  that  it  takes  cognizance  of  every- 


TEiTPLE   OF   HEAVEN. 


thing  which  transpires  in  the  family,  and  makes  a  rej)ort 
at  the  close  of  the  year  in  the  presence  of  the  chief  of  the 
gods.  On  the  night  when  the  report  is  made,  all  the 
members  of  the  family  are  present,  and  a  feast  is  given 
for  and  in  honor  of  the  god,  intended  to  induce  him  to 
make  as  favorable  a  report  at  headquarters  as  possible. 
At  the  close  of  the  feast  the  paper-god  is  removed  from 


120  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

the  kitchen-rano;e  and  burned,  and  on  tlie  first  day  of  tlie 
new  year  a  new  paper  is  procured,  and  the  kitchen-god 
is  requested  to  resume  his  place  in  the  family ! 

Another  ceremony  is  performed,  called  ying-chun — 
the  welcoming  of  spring — which  is  observed  every  year 
on  the  first  day  of  spring.  It  is  customary  for  the 
ofiicers  to  go  out  through  the  east  gate  of  the  city,  where 
they  find  clay  images  of  a  ploughman  and  his  ox,  which 
had  been  previously  made  for  the  occasion.  They  then 
witness  a  theatrical  performance  in  the  temple  of  the 
god  of  agriculture,  which  is  designed  to  encourage  the 
people  to  be  industrious  in  agricultural  pursuits,  and 
then  the  clay  images  are  brought  back  into  the  city  and 
worshiped  ;  on  the  following  day  they  are  broken  in 
pieces  by  the  ofiicers.  The  fi'agments  of  these  images 
are  highly  prized  and  eagerly  sought  by  the  people,  who 
carry  them  to  their  homes  as  a  pledge  of  good  luck  for 
the  coming  season.  The  design  of  this  ceremony  seems 
to  be  to  inculcate  veneration  for  the  ox,  and  respect  for 
husbandry. 

The  god  of  war  is  everywhere  worshiped,  and  has 
temples  erected  to  him  throughout  the  empire.  During 
the  last  civil  war  in  China,  the  emperor  heaped  new 
honors  upon  him  on  account  of  alleged  deliverances,  but 
no  doubt  principally  to  inspire  confidence  in  the  for- 
tunes of  his  dynasty. 

The  god  of  wealth  is  much  regarded,  for  he  has  not 
only  large  temples  erected  solely  in  honor  of  him,  but 
every  shop  contains  his  image,  in  a  little  shrine,  before 
which  incense  is  kept  continually  burning,  and  many 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  121 

busiuess  houses  have  this  o-od  either  over  the  door  or 
on  the  sides,  to  keep  away  the  evil  spirit. 

In  cities  and  towns  men  of  diiferent  classes  and  occu- 
pations have  each  their  own  peculiar  deities,  in  addition 
to  those  gods  which  they  worship  in  common  with  the 
mass  of  the  people.  Scholars  worship  the  god  of  letters, 
business  men  the  god  of  wealth,  dealers  in  medicine  the 
god  who  discovered  medicine,  carpenters  the  god  who 
invented  the  tools  with  which  they  work,  sailors  the 
goddess  of  the  seas ;  and  there  are  other  gods  too  numer- 
ous to  mention. 

In  all  lieathen  countries  the  people  indillge  in  the 
worship  of  idols,  that  which  God  commanded  them  not 
to  do.  The  first  allusion  in  the  Bible  to  idolatry,  or 
idolatrous  customs,  is  in  the  account  of  Kachel's  stealing 
her  father's  images  (Genesis  xxx.  19).  When  Moses 
was  in  the  mount,  Aaron,  by  request  of  the  Israelites, 
who  clamored  for  some  visible  shape  in  which  they  might 
worship  God,  who  had  brought  them  up  out  of  Egy^^t, 
yielded  to  the  popular  cry,  and  chose  as  the  symbol  of 
deity  a  calf,  one  with  which  they  had  long  been  familiar 
(Exodus  xxxii.). 

The  three  princijial  religions  in  China,  namely,  the 
state,  Confucianism,  and  Buddhism,  are  not  regarded  by 
the  people  as  antagonistic  sects.  It  is  said  to  be  very 
common  for  the  same  persons  to  profess  and  perform  the 
rites  and  worship  of  them  all. 

Of  other  religious  sects  in  China  the  Mohammedans 
are  numerous.  They  entered  China  from  Arabia  in  the 
seventh    century,   and  their  number  has   gradually  in- 


122  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

creased  by  immigration  from  Mohammedan  states  and 
by  natural  increase — not  by  proselytism.  Their  mosques 
may  be  seen  in  all  the  large  cities. 

Buddhism,  in  numbers,  is  greater  than  any  other  re- 
lip-ion  in  the  world.  It  includes  over  one-thii'd  more 
than  all  others  together.  It  prevails  not  only  in  China 
and  Japan,  but  in  India,  Siberia,  and  many  other  coun- 
tries. According  to  Hassel,  the  numerical  value  of  the 
various  important  religions  of  the  world  may  be  esti- 
mated as  follows : 

Bnddjiists 315,000,000 

Mohammedans        ....        250,000,000 
Christians  of  all  denominations  .         .  120,000,000 

Confucianists,  etc 111,000,000 

Jews 4,000,000 

Other  numerous  sects      .         .         .        100,000,000 

Total 900,000,000 

The  chief  step  toward  Christianizing  our  world  has 
been  taken  by  opening  the  Chinese  Empire.  Throwing 
open  her  doors  to  admit  the  gospel  of  Christ  to  a  third 
of  the  human  race  is  doubtless  one  of  the  greatest  among 
the  great  events  of  the  present  age,  and  one  that  should 
awaken  no  ordinary  interest  throughout  the  Christian 
world.  It  is  an  event  in  which  the  hand  of  God  is 
clearly  manifest,  preparing  the  way  and  leading  forward 
gradually  the  movement  of  his  kingdom  toward  the 
period  when  the  heathen  shall  be  given  to  the  Son  for 
an  inheritance,  and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth  for 
a  possession. 

Christianity,  in  some  of  its  forms,  is  no  new  thing  in 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  123 

China.  If  what  can  be  gathered  from  ancient  writers  is 
relial)le,  there  is  a  strong  probability  that  the  gospel  was 
preached  in  China,  and  churches  were  founded,  during 
the  first  century  of  our  era.  Assemanus,  a  learned  Syr- 
ian historian,  claims  that  the  apostle  Thomas  crossed 
over  Persia  and  India  into  China,  and  preached  the  gos- 
pel and  founded  churches.  There  are  various  arguments, 
collected  from  learned  men,  to  show  that  the  Christian 
faith  was  carried  to  China  by  the  first  teachers  of  Chris- 
tianity at  an  early  period.  Mosheim  says  that  in  the 
year  300  many  Christian  deeds  were  done  in  China. 
Chinese  history  also  makes  a  [clear  reference  to  Chris- 
tianity in  that  country  at  this  period.  On  the  whole, 
historic  testimony  is  quite  united  and  strongly  in  favor 
of  the  view  that  Christian  churches  were  established  in 
China  many  centuries  ago.  In  the  seventh  and  eighth 
centuries  the  Nestorian  missions  in  China  were  flourish- 
ing. This  is  learned  from  an  inscription  upon  a  remark- 
able marble  tablet  discovered  in  the  year  1625,  in  Segan, 
the  capital  of  the  province  of  Shen-si,  and  still  to  be  seen 
there,  which  was  erected  in  the  year  781.  From  this 
inscription  it  is  evident  that  the  Nestorian s  had  made 
great  progress  among  the  Chinese :  the  Bible,  or  at  least 
portions  of  it,  was  translated,  and  put  in  the  library  of 
the  palace ;  churches  were  built,  and  priests  were  ap- 
pointed and  supported  by  command  of  the  Chinese  em- 
perors ;  many  men  occupying  high  official  stations  were 
the  warm  friends  of  the  foreig-n  missionaries,  and  firm 
adherents  and  zealous  supporters  of  the  faith. 

In  845,  sixty-four  years  after  the  erection  of  the  tablet 


124  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

alluded  to,  2^ei'seciition  arose,  and  by  an  edict  of  the  em- 
peror the  priests  that  came  from  Syria,  in  all  numbering 
nearly  a  thousand,  were  ordered  to  retire  to  private  life. 
From  this  time  the  missions  appear  to  have  declined. 
Still,  foreign  priests  continued  for  several  centuries  occa- 
sionally to  arrive,  and  churches  continued  to  exist  in 
various  parts  of  the  empire,  until  a  fierce  persecution 
arose  that  scattered  the  Christians  and  changed  their 
places  of  worship  into  heathen  temples.  This  occurred 
about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century,  when  the 
churches  had  already  become  very  corrupt  and  feeble. 
Since  that  time,  it  is  not  known  that  a  single  Nestorian 
church  has  existed  in  the  empire. 

Roman  Catholic  missions  have  also  been  in  operation 
in  China  for  a  long  period.  Their  first  mission  was  com- 
menced by  the  Franciscans  in  1292.  They  continued 
their  work  till  the  expulsion  of  the  Mongols  from  the 
throne  of  China,  in  1368,  when  their  mission  was  broken 
up ;  froni  this  time,  for  a  period  of  two  hundred  and 
thirteen  years,  we  hear  no  more  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
missions  in  China.  In  the  year  1581  the  Jesuits  com- 
menced a  mission,  which  continued  to  prosper  for  a  period 
of  one  hundred  and  forty-three  years,  and  many  churches 
were  established.  Since  then  things  have  gradually 
taken  a  change  for  the  worse,  and  the  missions  have  suf- 
fered frequent  and  severe  persecutions ;  they  have,  how- 
ever, been  able  to  prosecute  their  work  down  to  the 
present  time. 

Protestant  missions  to  the  Chinese  were  commenced 
in  1807,  by  the  Rev.  Robert  Morrison,  of  the  London 


RELIGION    OF    THE    CHINESE.  125 

Missionary  Society,  who  began  a  mission  at  Canton.  As 
China  was  not  yet  opened  to  intercourse  with  the  West- 
ern worhl,  and  the  East  India  Company — which  then 
monopolized  the  trade  with  China — was  opposed  to  mis- 
sions, Mr.  Morrison  was  not  at  liberty  to  preach  openly ; 
but  he  held  secret  meetino-s  with  a  few  natives  in  his 
own  house,  where  with  locked  doors  he  read  and  ex- 
plained the  gospel  every  Lord's  day.  He  labored  alone 
for  six  years,  and  was  then  joined  by  the  Rev.  William 
Milne. 

Up  to  1841,  a  period  of  thirty-five  years,  fifty-eight 
missionaries  had  joined  the  various  missions,  of  whom 
only  four  came  direct  to  Canton ;  others  were  stationed 
at  different  places.  In  1842,  when  British  cannon  had 
opened  the  long-closed  gates  of  China,  missionaries  rap- 
idly increased ;  numbers  entered  the  field,  and  with  great 
zeal  began  to  lay  broad  and  deep  the  foundations  of 
their  future  work.  Buildings  were  erected ;  schools, 
printing  establishments,  and  chapels,  were  opened. 

By  the  treaties  of  1860 — secured  by  the  second  war 
— ten  new  ports  were  opened.  At  most  of  these  mis- 
sions were  established ;  day  and  boarding  schools  have 
been  extensively  maintained ;  hundreds  of  native  preach- 
ers have  been  trained  up  in  these  schools ;  dispensaries 
and  hospitals  have  been  established  at  nearly  all  the 
fi'ee  j^oiiis,  where  more  than  ten  thousand  patients  have 
annually  been  treated,  and  at  the  same  time  have  been 
brought  under  the  influence  of  the  gospel ;  five  complete 
versions  of  the  Bible,  and  over  seven  hundred  other  trea- 
tises, have  been  prepared  and  circulated  in  great  numbers. 


126  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

And  now,  that  wliicli  should  greatly  enhance  the  in- 
terest of  American  Christians  in  this  field  is  the  fact  that 
it  is  brought  so  close  to  them.  The  construction  of  the 
Pacific  Railroad,  and  the  Pacific  mail-steamship  line,  have 
brought  China  very  near  to  us.  Formerly  the  Flowery 
Land  was  at  the  very  ends  of  the  earth ;  now  the  facil- 
ities for  intercommunication  have  brouo;ht  her  almost 
to  our  very  doors,  and  she  is  beginning  to  command  our 
attention.  Before  this  new  mode  of  communication  was 
opened,  missionaries  to  China  were  about  five  months  in 
reaching  their  field  of  labor ;  now  they  can  reach  it  in 
five  weeks.  Then  they  had  the  discomforts  of  a  long 
sea-voyage  around  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  in  a  sailing- 
vessel  ;  but  now,  in  splendid  palace  and  sleeping  cars, 
they  cross  the  continent  to  San  Francisco  in  a  week,  and 
thence  in  a  splendid  steamship,  with  every  comfort  that 
can  be  enjoyed  at  sea,  they  can  cross  the  Pacific  and  reach 
China  in  less  than  a  month. 


CHAPTEE   XL 

CHIlSrESE    MANNERS    AND    CUSTOMS. 

The  Chinese  are  said  to  be  hospitable  and  generous; 
but  when  under  the  influence  of  passion,  excited  by  in- 
justice or  insult,  quarrels  arise  in  the  family  or  on  the 
streets,  in  which  women  often  take  part.  They  bluster 
and  threaten  in  a  manner  quite  frightful  to  those,  unac- 
customed to  them,  but  seldom  come  to  blows.  In  cases 
of  deep  resentment,  the  injured  party  often  adopts  a 
singular  mode  of  reveno;e :  instead  of  killins:  his  antao-- 
onist,  he  determines  rather  to  kill  himself.  In  this  way 
he  would  fix  the  stigma  of  murder  upon  his  adversary, 
whom  the  people  generally  regard  as  the  cause  of  the 
crime,  and  responsible  for  it.  A  person  under  these  cir- 
cumstances sometimes  commits  suicide  by  hanging  him- 
self in  his  own  house ;  but  the  most  common  mode  is  to 
swallow  opium,  and  then  hire  coolies  to  carry  him  to  die 
at  the  door  of  his  enemy.  Their  motive  in  leading  to 
self-destruction  lies  probably  in  the  hope  of  having 
greater  advantages  for  inflicting  injur}^  and  gaining  re- 
venge in  the  spirit-world  than  while  living  in  the  flesh. 

The  Chinese  costume,  of  both  sexes,  is  loose  and  flow- 
ing, and  with  scarcely  any  change  in  fashion.  The 
masses  of  the  population  wear  homespun  cotton ;  the 
wealthier  classes  are  clad  in  silks,  satins,  furs,  and  other 


128  .  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

more  costly  materials.  TLe  dress-makers  are  men  instead 
of  women,  and  tlie  various  trades  and  occupations  are 
singularly  mixed  up.  The  men  wear  tlieir  hair  as  long 
as  it  will  grow,  and  when  plaited  it  often  reaches  lielow 
their  knees,  while  the  women  carefully  braid  theirs  on 
and  around  the  head.  The  men  commonly  wear  a  sort 
of  petticoat,  or  loose  garment  reaching  to  the  feet,  while 
the  women,  on  the  other  hand,  wear  trousers  or  panta- 
loons. 

The  official  rank  and  position  of  the  Chinese  are  in- 
dicated by  the  color  and  peculiarities  of  buttons,  feathers, 
caps,  and  embroidered  work,  on  their  garments ;  these 
official  badges  are  much  regarded  by  the  people.  In 
meeting  with  a  company  of  foreigners,  they  are  prone 
to  notice  them  carefully,  to  discover  by  what  outward 
badge  or  mark  their  rank  is  indicated,  and  are  apt  to 
conclude  that  it  is  by  the  variety  of  caps  and  hats  they 
wear. 

The  practice  of  binding  girls'  feet  is  almost  universal 
amons:  the  hio-her  classes.  It  is  reo;arded  as  a  mark  of 
distinction  for  ladies  to  have  small  feet;  in  every  city 
great  numbers  of  women,  perhaps  a  quarter  or  more  of 
the  female  population,  may  be  seen  toddling  about  the 
streets  on  their  pegs,  looking  very  much  as  if  their  feet 
had  been  cut  off  and  they  were  walking  on  the  stumps; 
it  is  with  the  greatest  difficulty  that  they  can  balance 
themselves  in  walking,  and  many  resort  to  a  cane  to  keep 
themselves  straio;ht.  There  is  a  marked  difference  in  the 
degree  in  which  feet  are  compressed.  Country-women 
and  the  poorer  classes  have  feet  about  half  the  natural 


CHINESE   MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  129 

size,  while  those  of  the  genteel  or  fashionable  class  are 
only  about  three  inches  long.  The  process  of  compress- 
ino;  is  commenced  after  ffirls  have  learned  to  walk,  and 
have  developed  the  muscles  for  locomotion,  and  generally 
at  the  age  of  five  years,  when  a  cotton  bandage  two  or 
three  inches  \vide  is  wound  tightly  around  the  foot,  and 
from  this  time  the  foot  ceases  to  grow ;  it  assumes  the 
shape  of  an  acute  triangle,  the  big  toe  forming  the  acute 
angle,  and  the  other  toes  being  bent  under  the  foot,  and 
almost  lost  or  absorbed.  This  custom  has  existed  for 
many  centuries,  and  the  Chinese  cannot  account  satis- 
factorily for  its  origin.  It  probably  arose  from  a  strife 
among  women  for  the  preeminence  of  having  the  smallest 
feet.  The  Chinese  insist  upon  it  that  the  custom  of 
compressing  women's  feet  is  neither  in  as  bad  taste,  nor 
so  injurious  to  the  health,  as  that  of  foreign  ladies  com- 
pressing the  ^vaist. 

The  Chinese  have  a  custom,  quite  peculiar  to  them- 
selves, of  ordering  their  coffins  and  having  them  sent 
home  long  before  they  have  any  thought  of  dying  ;  they 
take  great  pride  in  selecting  the  best  materials,  having 
them  made  of  thick  slabs  of  wood,  good  and  strong,  and, 
when  they  can  afford  it,  in  the  most  expensive  style,  and 
take  great  pleasure  in  showing  them  to  their  friends, 
keeping  them  where  they  may  be  seen  by  all  who  call. 

Chinese  houses  are  ordinarily  furnished  with  chairs, 
tables,  stands,  and  bedsteads.  When  they  have  com- 
pany the  two  sexes  eat  separately  in  difterent  rooms,  but 
in  ordinary  meals  different  members  of  the  family  of 
both  sexes  sit  down  together  with  mucli  less  formality. 


130  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

On  the  tables  of  botli  ricli  and  poor  may  be  seen  a  large 
dish  filled  with  rice;  before  each  chair  is  placed  an 
empty  bowl  and  two  chop-sticks,  which  are  about  eight 
inches  long,  and  resemble  somewhat  a  common  penholder; 
these  are  made  of  bamboo  or  ivory.  Each  individual  at 
the  table  takes  up  the  chop-sticks  in  the  right  hand,  and, 
holding  them  between  the  thumb  and  fingers  in  such 
a  manner  that  the  lower  ends  approach  each  other  like 
a  pair  of  pincers  or  tongs,  eats  comparatively  with  as 
much  ease  as  we  do  with  knives  and  forks. 

Beef  is  never  exposed  for  sale  in  the  Chinese  mar- 
kets. The  meat  of  the  few  cattle  which  are  used  for 
ploughing  is,  when  they  are  killed,  disposed  of  princi- 
pally to  foreigners.  There  is  a  strong  and  almost  uni- 
versal prejudice  against  eating  beef.  The  reason  gener- 
ally given  for  this  prejudice  is,  that  we  are  so  much 
indebted  to  the  patient  labors  of  the  ox  an<l  cow  for 
ploughing  our  fields.  Milk  is  hardly  used  at  all.  They 
eat  pork,  fowls,  eggs,  fish,  and  game.  In  all  the  open 
ports  beef  and  milk  are  supplied  for  the  use  of  foreign 
residents. 

During  the  months  of  August  and  September  in 
every  year,  when  diseases  are  usually  prevalent,  the 
people  sup2^ose  that  the  gates  of  liell  are  opened,  and 
the  spirits  are  turned  out  for  a  kind  of  holiday ;  at 
this  time  they  are  honored  with  ceremonies  performed 
throughout  the  country.  The  object  of  these  ceremonies 
is  to  avert  the  evil,  and  secure  health  and  peace  to  the 
afilicted  families.  Quantities  of  food  are  prepared  which 
are  set  on  tables  in  an  open  place  or  court ;  clothes  of 


CHINESE   MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  I31 

paper  of  different  sizes,  styles,  and  colors,  are  suspended 
over  the  table,  and  a  company  of  priests  and  singers  is 
employed  to  add  variety  and  noise  to  the  entertainment. 
After  dark,  lanterns  are  suspended  from  high  poles  to  call 
the  spirits  from  a  distance  and  indicate  to  them  where 
food  can  l)e  found.  This  food  is  of  a  very  inferior 
quality,  and,  after  the  feast  is  over,  given  to  beggars.  It 
is  supposed  that  the  charms  of  the  priests  have  the 
power  to  convert  both  the  food  and  the  paper  clothes 
into  just  what  is  required  to  satisfy  the  wants  of  those 
for  Avhom  they  were  intended. 

Weddings  in  China  are  celebrated  with  a  great  deal 
of  formality  and  expense.  Betrothals  are  generally  con- 
tracted at  a  very  early  age ;  persons  of  the  same  family 
name  are  never  betrothed,  however  distant  the  relation- 
ship. The  work  is  done  in  most  cases  by  a  class  of 
women  called  go-betweens  or  match-makers.  They  are 
a  class  employed  at  weddings  and  funerals  in  superin- 
tending the  toilet  and  affording  assistance.  They  go 
about  constantly  from  family  to  family,  and  are  famil- 
iarly acquainted  mth  every  one  in  the  neighborhood, 
and  suggest  to  parents  where  they  may  find  girls  who 
would  make  a  desirable  match  for  their  sons.  These 
women  form  the  medium  for  carrying  on  communication 
between  the  two  families.  It  would  be  resrarded  as 
improper  and  indelicate  for  the  parents  to  arrange  the 
matter  themselves.  The  betrothal  is  consummated  by 
the  exchange  of  presents  and  the  making  over  to  the 
parents  of  the  groom  a  formal  document  or  agreement. 
The  relation  of  husband  and  wife  is  thus  constituted, 


132  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

and  the  engagement  is  regarded  as  sacred  and  binding 
as  if  tlie  marriage  had  been  performed  ;  but  the  wedding 
in  many  cases  does  not  take  place  until  several  years 
after,  for  children  are  generally  betrothed  at  an  early 
age,  from  five  to  seven,  and  some  older,  and  married  at 
the  age  agreed  upon  by  the  parents. 

When  a  Chinaman  meets  a  person  whom  he  intends 
to  salute,  instead  of  taking  him  by  the  hand  and  giving 
it  a  shake,  as  with  us,  he  shakes  his  own  hands,  putting 
them  together  and  moving  them  up  and  down.  On 
coming  into  your  presence  he  never  thinks  of  raising  his 
hat  or  cap  or  whatever  he  may  wear,  although  he  may 
remove  his  shoes.  If  a  Chinaman  wislies  to  do  you 
special  honor,  instead  of  placing  you  at  his  right  hand, 
you  will  have  a  seat  or  standing-place  on  his  left.  When 
invited  to  a  feast  or  other  entertainment,  the  men  and 
women,  althouo^h  invited  toorether,  do  not  eat  in  com- 
pany,  but  occupy  separate  rooms. 

The  language  of  China  is  another  peculiarity.  It 
is  said  the  spoken  language  is  never  wiitten,  and  the 
written  language  is  never  spoken  ;  so  that  one  may  be 
familiar  with  Chinese  books,  and  not  understand  any- 
thing of  the  conversation  of  the  people.  In  I'eading  a 
book,  they  commence  at  the  top  of  the  page  and  go  to 
the  bottom,  instead  of  across  the  page,  as  we  do;  the 
lines  runnino'  downward,  numbering:  from  rig;ht  to  left. 
The  title  of  the  book  is  on  the  side  of  the  page  instead 
of  the  top,  and  the  contents  of  the  chapter  at  the  end 
instead  of  the  beginning. 

The  first  thing  w^hich  attracts  attention  in  the  list  of 


CHINESE   MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  133 

trade  with  China  is  the  opium-traffic.  The  Opium  War 
and  the  present  opium-trade  is  a  dark  blot  upon  the 
history  of  the  British  Government.  No  one  can  visit 
China  without  witnessing  the  evil  effects  of  opium  on 
the  multitudes  of  miserable  victims  wliich  it  is  daily  de- 
priving of  mental  and  physical  vigoi',  and  consigning  to 
the  grave ;  no  one  can  read  the  humble  words  in  which 
the  Chinese  commissioners  have  besought  tlie  British 
representatives  not  to  force  this  destructive  drug  upon 
the  nation  ;  no  one  can  recall  the  heartless  manner  in 
which  such  appeals  were  answered  with  threats,  and 
afterward  with  broadsides  from  vessels-of  war,  until  the 
way  was  made  open  for  the  wholesale  introduction  of 
opium  in  all  parts  of  the  empire — which  course,  on  the 
part  of  the  British  authorities,  had  a  powerful  tendency 
to  retard  the  Christian  mission- work,  and  check  the  prog- 
ress of  religion — without  feelings  of  the  deepest  indig- 
nation.' 

Opium  to  a  small  extent  has  been  cultivated  in  China 
for  several  centuries,  but  only  for  its  medical  properties. 
Since  its  introduction  from  India,  the  plant  has  become 
an  article  of  culture  in  many  parts  of  the  empire.  It  is 
said  that  in  Persia,  India,  and  China,  millions  of  people 
are  employed  in  the  cultivation  of  the  poppy. 

The  preparation  of  opium  for  the  Chinese  market  is 
superintended  by  examiners  appointed  by  the  Govern- 
ment, and  is  a  business  of  some  difficulty,  owing  to  the 
many  devices  employed  by  the  manufacturers  for  its 
adulteration  and  to  increase  its  weight :  mixing  with 
water,  soft  clay,  sugar,  powdered  cow-dung,  and  many 


134  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

otlier  things,  are  resorted  to.  When  tlie  juice  is  taken 
from  tlie  cultivator,  the  crude  mass  undergoes  a  careful 
examination,  and  is  rolled  into  small  balls,  with  a  cover- 
ing of  opium  mixed  with  the  leaves  of  the  poppy.  The 
juice,  when  properly  prepared  and  dried,  is  of  the  con- 
sistency of  thick  mortar  and  of  a  yellow  color. 

The  Chinese  do  not  raise  enough  opium  for  home 
consumption,  and  a  very  large  quantity  is  brought  from 
India.  Nearly  all  the  opium  grown  in  India  is  brought 
to  Calcutta  and  stored  in  Government  warehouses,  until 
exposed  for  sale  at  auction  in  lots  from  five  chests  each, 
at  an  upset  price  graduated  by  the  market  rate  in  China. 
It  is  supposed  to  cost  about  seven  hundred  rupees  a 
chest,  and  is  sold  for  one  thousand  rupees  and  upward, 
yielding  an  immense  profit  to  the  British  Grovernment. 
Before  marketing  the  drug  is  rolled  into  small  balls,  and 
then  packed  in  strong  l)oxes  weighing  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  pounds  each. 

Thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  of  the  Chinese  peo- 
ple annually  die  from  the  evil  effects  of  opium.  Various 
means  have  been  tried  by  the  benevolent  men  of  the 
nation  to  dissuade  theii'  countrymen  from  its  use,  by  dis- 
tributing tracts  showing  its  ruinous  effects,  and  com- 
pounding medicines  for  the  smoker  to  take,  to  aid  him 
in  breaking  off  the  habit,  and  denouncing  the  smoking- 
shops,  etc. 

The  opium-pipe  consists  of  a  tube  or  stem,  of  bamboo, 
from  three  to  four  feet  long,  furnished  at  the  end  with  a 
little  cup  of  earthenware,  which  rests  upon  a  small  lamp 
or  furnace  filled  with  coals,  upon  which  the  bowl  of  the 


CHINESE   MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  135 

pi]3e  rests.  A  small  piece  of  opium,  not  much  larger 
than  a  pea,  is  put  upon  the  hole  of  the  bowl,  set  on  fire 
by  the  lamp  or  coals,  and  inhaled  by  one  whiff,  so  that 
none  of  the  smoke  shall  be  lost.  Old  smokers  will  re- 
tain the  breath  a  long  time,  filling  the  lungs  and  exhal- 
ing the  fumes  through  the  nose.  It  is  said  that,  after  the 
smoker  has  finished  his  pipe,  he  falls  into  a  deep  sleep 
of  from  one  to  four  hours'  duration. 

In  walking  through  the  streets  of  Canton  I  saw,  in 
many  of  the  stores  and  shops,  persons  sitting  flat  upon 
the  floor  with  the  feet  curled  under  their  bodies,  with 
their  pipes  resting  upon  a  small  furnace  of  coals,  smok- 
ing ;  the  sidewalks  are  also  used  for  the  same  purpose. 
They  commonly  lie  or  sit  down  to  smoke,  and  often  two 
or  three  persons  smoke  from  the  same  pipe,  first  one  and 
then  the  other  taking  a  whiff. 

The  testimony  regarding  the  evil  effects  of  the  use 
of  this  pernicious  drug,  which  deserves  better  to  be 
called  an  article  of  destruction  than  one  of  luxury, 
should  be  well  pondered  by  all  who  feel  an  interest  in 
our  fallen  race  of  humanity.  Dr.  Smith,  a  physician  in 
charge  of  one  of  the  hospitals,  says  that  the  poisonous  ef- 
ects  of  this  habit  on  the  human  constitution  are  particu- 
larly displayed  by  stupor,  forgetfulness,  general  debility 
of  both  the  mental  and  physical  faculties,  sallow  com- 
plexion, dullness  of  the  eye,  and  the  appetite  either  de- 
stroyed or  depraved.  These  symptoms  appear  when  the 
habit  has  weakened  the  physical  powers  ;  even  the  ordi- 
nary smoker  soon  becomes  languid,  being  disabled  men- 
tally more  than  bodily  from  carrying  on  his  ordinary 


136  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

pursuits.  A  dose  of  opium  does  not  produce  the  intox- 
ication of  ardent  spirits,  and,  so  far  as  the  community 
and  his  family  are  concerned,  the  smoker  is  less  trouble- 
some than  the  drunkard,  for  he  never  throws  the  chairs 
and  tables  about  the  room,  nor  breaks  the  furniture,  as 
the  drunkard  may;  he  never  drives  his  wife  out-of-doors 
in  his  furious  rage,  nor  goes  reeling  through  the  streets, 
nor  takes  lodgings  in  the  gutter,  but  after  smoking  he  is 
inclined  to  go  to  sleep,  and  he  awakes  quietly. 

A  Chinese  scholar  thus  sums  up  the  bad  effects  of 
opium,  which  he  says  is  taken  at  first  to  raise  the  animal 
spirits.  On  the  contrary,  he  affirms  that  it  depresses  the 
spirits,  impedes  the  regular  performance  of  business, 
wastes  the  flesh  and  blood,  dissipates  every  kind  of 
property,  renders  the  victim  prone  to  violate  the  laws, 
attacks  the  vitals,  and  destroys  life.  Under  each  of  these 
heads  he  shows  the  mode  of  the  process,  or  gives  exam- 
ples to  uphold  his  assertions  in  regard  to  its  destructive 
action  on  the  human  system.  Compared  with  arsenic,  I 
pronounce  it  tenfold  the  greater  poison.  One  swallows 
arsenic,  because  he  has  lost  his  reputation  and  from  other 
causes;  thus  driven  to  desperation,  he  takes  the  dose 
and  is  destroyed  at  once.  But  those  who  smoke  opium 
are  injured  in  many  ways ;  it  may  be  comj^ared  to  rais- 
ing the  wick  of  a  lamp :  while  it  increases  the  blaze,  it 
hastens  the  exhaustion  of  the  oil  and  the  extinction  of 
the  light.  Hence  the  youth  who  becomes  addicted  to 
opium-smoking  will  shorten  his  own  days  and  cut  off  all 
hopes  of  posterity.  From  the  most  robust  who  indulge 
in  smoking,  the  flesh  is  gradually  consumed  and  worn 


CHINESE   MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS. 


137 


away,  and  the  countenance  becomes  haggard  and  dark- 
looking.  The  habitual  smoker  Avill  often  spend  days 
over  his  pipe,  for  when  the  desire  of  opium  comes  on  he 
cannot  resist  the  temptation.     It  is  said  that  poor  men 


/!        /  J/ 


d«*f*g(j»iii| 


f  );     ^^'f»>^^\      \ 


OPrCTM-SMOKERS. 


who  are  addicted  to  this  vice,  after  having  pawned  every 
article  in  their  possession  for  the  purchase  of  the  de- 
basing drug,  have  even  pawned  their  wives  and   sold 


their  daughters ! 

10 


138  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

The  evils  suffered  and  crimes  committed  by  these 
desperate  victims  of  the  opium-pipe  are  fearful  and  mul- 
tiplied :  theft,  arson,  murder,  and  suicide,  are  perpetrated 
in  order  to  obtain  tlie  drug;  and,  from  its  dreadful  con- 
sequences, some  try  to  break  off  the  fatal  habit  by  drink- 
ing a  tincture  of  the  opium-drug  in  spirits,  gradually 
diminishing  its  strength  until  the  appetite  for  the  stimu- 
lant is  overcome.  Others  mix  opium  with  tobacco,  and 
smoke  the  compound  in  a  gradually  reduced  proportion, 
until  tobacco  alone  remains  in  the  pipe.  By  this  method 
some  smokers  have  lost  the  appetite  for  opium.  The 
general  belief  is  that  the  vice  can  be  overcome  without 
fatal  results,  if  the  smoker  firmly  resolves  to  forsake  it, 
and  keeps  away  from  the  sight  and  smell  of  the  pipe, 
keeping  as  much  as  possible  in  the  open  air  until  he 
recovers  his  spirits,  and  no  longer  feels  a  longing  for  it ; 
but  very  few  have  nerve  enough  to  emancipate  them- 
selves from  the  tyrannous  and  soul-killing  habit  which 
enslaves  them.  But  it  happens  unto  them  according 
to  the  true  proverb :  "  The  dog  is  turned  to  his  own 
vomit  again ;  and  the  sow  that  was  washed  to  her  wal- 
lowing in  the  mire"  (2  Peter  ii.  22). 

The  Chinese  Government  is  one  of  the  great  wonders 
of  history.  It  presents  to  us  to-day  the  same  character 
which  it  jiossessed  at  its  foundation,  at  least  three  thou- 
sand years  ago,  and  which  it  has  retained  ever  since. 

A  prominent  English  writer,  in  speaking  of  the  Chi- 
nese executive  system,  characterizes  it  as  one  of  the  most 
gigantic  and  the  most  minutely  organized  in  the  world. 


CHINESE   MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS.  I39 

The  character  of  the  Government  is  patriarchal,  and 
assumed  its  present  form  at  a  very  early  age,  when  the 
Chinese  race  was  divided  into  petty  kingdoms  and  prin- 
cipalities. As  the  empire  grew  in  territory  and  popula- 
tion, the  fundamental  principle  was  retained. 

The  emperor  is  called  the  Son  of  Heaven,  who  exer- 
cises supreme  control  over  the  whole  empire,  because 
Heaven  has  empowered  and  requii'ed  him  to  do  so.  His 
patriarchal  character,  while  it  confers  on  him  absolute 
sovereignty,  imposes  also  the  obligation  to  treat  his  peo- 
ple with  justice  and  sympathy.  It  is  said  that  he  lives 
in  unapproachable  grandeur,  and  is  never  seen  except 
by  members  of  his  own  family  and  high  state  officers; 
nothing  is  omitted  which  can  add  to  the  dignity  and 
sacredness  of  his  person  or  character,  and  almost  every- 
thing used  by  him  is  held  sacred  by  the  common  people, 
and  distinguished  by  some  peculiar  mark  or  color,  so  as 
to  keep  up  the  impression  of  awe  with  which  he  is  re- 
garded. The  outer  gate  of  the  palace  must  always  be 
passed  on  foot,  and  the  paved  entrance  leading  up  to  it 
can  only  be  used  by  him  and  the  high  officers  of  state. 

The  throne  is  not  strictly  hereditary,  though  the  old- 
est son  of  the  emj)eror  generally  succeeds  to  it.  The 
emperor  appoints  his  successor,  but  it  is  supposed  that, 
in  doing  so,  he  will  have  supreme  regard  for  the  best 
good  of  his  subjects,  and  will  be  governed  by  the  will 
of  Heaven. 

In  governing  so  large  a  realm  it  is  found  necessary 
for  the  emperor  to  delegate  his  authority  to  numerous 
officers,  who  are  regarded  as  his  agents  and  represent- 


140  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

atives  in  carrying  out  the  imperial  will ;  wliat  they  do 
the  emperor  does  through  them. 

The  cabinet  consists  of  four  principal  and  two  joint 
assistant  chancellors,  half  of  them  Mantchoos  and  half 
Chinese.  Their  duties,  according  to  the  imperial  stat- 
utes, are  to  deliberate  on  the  government  of  the  empire, 
regulate  the  canons  of  state,  together  with  the  whole 
administration  of  the  balance  of  power,  and  aid  the  em- 
peror in  directing  the  affairs  of  state.  Subordinate  to 
these  six  chancellors  are  also  six  other  grades  of  officers, 
amounting  in  all  to  several  hundred  persons. 

The  general  council  is  composed  of  princes  of  the 
blood,  of  the  chancellors'  cabinet,  the  presidents  and  vice- 
presidents  of  the  six  boards,  and  chief  officers  of  all  the 
other  courts  in  the  capital.  Its  duties  are  to  write  im- 
perial edicts  and  decisions,  and  determine  such  things 
as  are  of  importance  to  the  army  and  nation,  in  order 
to  aid  the  sovereign  in  regulating  the  machinery  of  state 
affairs.  It  is  principally  by  means  of  this  council  that 
the  emperor,  and  his  immediate  advisers,  become  ac- 
quainted with  and  control  those  who  are  engaged  in  dif- 
ferent departments  of  the  Government. 

There  are  three  subordinate  grades  of  officers  in  each 
board,  who  may  be  called  directors,  with  a  great  number 
of  minor  clerks.  The  details  of  all  the  departments,  in 
the  general  and  provincial  governments,  are  regulated 
in  the  same  manner. 

When  Confucius  began  to  teach  his  doctrines,  he  re- 
ferred to  the  ancient  kings  and  their  conduct,  both  for 
proof  of  the  correctness  of  his  instructions,  and  for  argu- 


CHINESE   MANNERS  AND    CUSTOMS.  \^\ 

ments  to  enforce  them.  It  shows  that  his  countrymen 
assented  to  their  propriety  from  the  large  number  of 
disciples  he  had  in  his  lifetime,  and  the  high  character 
he  bore,  but  it  was  not  till  after  two  or  three  centuries 
liad  elapsed  that  the  rulers  of  China  perceived  that  the 
adoption  and  diffusion  of  these  doctrines  would  give 
them  sway ;  they  therefore  began  to  embody  them  more 
and  more  into  laws,  and  base  the  institutions  of  govern- 
ment upon  them,  and,  through  all  the  convulsions  and 
wars  which  have  disturbed  the  country  and  changed  the 
reigning  families,  the  wiitings  of  Confucius  have  done 
more  than  anything  else  to  uj^hold  the  institutions  of 
the  Chinese,  and  give  them  a  character  and  permanence 
which  no  other  people  ever  had.  Education,  as  well  as 
political  economy,  being  founded  on  them,  students  have 
ever  been  taus-ht  to  receive  and  reverence  them  as  the 
oracles  of  political  wisdom. 

But  this  civilization  is  Asiatic  and  not  European, 
pagan  and  not  Christian.  The  institutions  of  China  are 
despotic  and  defective,  and  founded  on  wrong  principles ; 
they  may  possess  the  elements  of  stability,  but  not  of 
improvement.  The  patriarchal  theory  does  not  make 
men  honorable,  truthful,  or  kind ;  it  does  not  place 
woman  in  her  right  position,  that  to  which  she  is  en- 
titled, nor  teach  her  millions  of  inhabitants  their  obliga- 
tions to  their  Creator. 

A  cursory  inspection  will  show  that  the  great  lead- 
ing principles  by  which  the  present  Chinese  Government 
preserves  its  power  over  the  people  consist  in  a  system 
of  strict  surveillance  and  mutual  responsibility  among 


142  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

all  classes.  They  are  enforced  by  such  a  minute  grada- 
tion  of  rank  and  subordination  of  officers  as  to  give  the 
Government  essentially  a  military  character,  and  the 
whole  system  is  such  as  to  make  it  one  of  the  most 
unmixed  despotisms  now  existing.  It  is  said  to  be  like 
a  network,  extending  over  the  whole  face  of  society. 
The  man  who  knows  that  it  is  almost  impossible,  except 
by  entire  seclusion,  to  escape  from  the  company  of  secret 
agents  of  the  Government,  will  be  cautious  of  offending 
the  laws  of  the  country,  convinced  that,  though  he  should 
himself  escape,  yet  his  family  or  kindred  will  suffer  for 
Ms  offense. 


CHAPTER   XIT. 


CHINESE      nSTDUSTRY, 


Agricultuee,  of  all  manual  labor,  liolds  the  first 
place  in  the  honor  and  estimation  of  the  Chinese,  not 
alone  as  providing  a  regular  supply  of  food  for  so  large 
a  population,  but  also  in  meeting  the  wants  of  the  Grov- 
ernment  by  taxation;  and  long  experience  has  taught 
them  that  an  agricultural  community  is  more  easily  gov- 
erned than  a  mercantile  or  wai'like  one. 

Landed  property  is  held  in  clans  or  families  as  much 
as  possible,  but  it  is  not  -entailed,  nor  are  very  large 
estates  frequent.  The  land  is  held  as  a  freehold  so  long 
as  the  sovereign  receives  his  rent,  which  is  estimated  at 
about  one-tenth  of  the  produce ;  and  the  proprietors 
record  their  names  in  the  district  magistrate's  ofiice  as 
responsible  for  the  tax,  feeling  themselves  secure  in  the 
possession  while  the  tax  is  paid.  The  paternal  estate, 
and  the  houses  upon  it,  descend  to  the  eldest  son. 
Daughters  never  inherit,  nor  can  an  adopted  son  suc- 
ceed, or  enter  into  possession. 

It  is  said  that  the  Chinese  are  rather  gardeners  than 
farmers.  Their  agricultural  utensils  are  few  and  simple, 
and  are  probably  now  made  similar  to  those  used  cen- 
turies ago  :  the  edge  of  the  large  wooden  hoe  is  faced 
with  iron ;  the  plough  is  made  of  wood,  excepting  the 


» 


144  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

share,  wliicli  is  of  iron,  and  lies  so  flat  that  it  cannot 
peneti-ate  the  ground  but  a  few  inches ;  the  harrow  is  a 
heavy  stick  armed  with  a  single  row  of  stout  wooden 
teeth,  and  furnished  with  a  framework  of  a  triangular 
form,  on  which  the  driver  sits  to  guide  it. 

Wheat,  barley,  millet,  and  rice,  are  planted  in  rows, 
which  is  thought  to  produce  better  crops  than  when 
sown  broadcast.  Our  American  farmers  would  despair 
if  they  were  obliged  to  transplant  wheat,  barley,  and 
rice  crops  from  bed  to  bed,  and  spear  by  spear;  they 
would  be  discouraged  if  even  they  had  to  water  it  once 
or  twice  durino-  its  oTowth.  It  would  be  left  to  rot  in 
the  field  if  they  were  denied  a  reaper,  or  at  least  a  cradle 
or  scythe ;  it  would  waste  in  the  barn  or  stack  if  they 
could  not  procure  a  thrashing-machine  or  fanning-mill. 
Hei'e,  on  the  other  hand,  each  blade  of  grain  is  removed 
to  a  new  bed,  and,  from  its  planting  until  its  ripening, 
it  is  watered  once  a  daw  When  it  is  o-athered,  the  seeds 
are  separated  from  the  husk  by  hand ;  notwithstanding 
this  vast  labor,  rice  is  the  chief  production,  and  the  prin- 
cipal fo.od  of  all  the  Asiatic  races,  constituting  more  than 
one-half  the  population  of  the  globe. 

The  plan  of  irrigation  is  simple,  but  it  requires  an 
immense  amount  of  labor  and  toil.  In  some  places  pools 
are  made  in  level  fields  to  receive  the  water,  which  is 
lifted  from  deep  wells  by  means  of  a  sweep  or  heavy 
p(3le  stationed  upon  a  long  post  set  in  the  ground  ;  the 
sweep  is  balanced  by  a  weight  on  one  end,  and  the 
bucket  on  the  other.  By  this  method  water  is  rapidly 
drawn  and  poured  into  little  fu]*rows,  through  which  it 


CHINESE   INDUSTRY.  145 

"finds  its  way  over  the  ground.  Wheels  of  various  sorts 
are  also  contrived  to  draw  water,  some  worked  by  human 
toil  and  others  by  cattle.  The  wheel  is  erected  in  a 
frame,  some  five  or  six  feet  above  the  top  of  the  well, 
with  a  rope  sufiiciently  long  to  reach  the  bottom,  and 
reeved  through  a  wheel ;  on  one  end  of  the  rope  is  fast- 
ened a  larsre  leather  bucket,  and  to  the  other  the  cattle 
are  attached.  By  this  method  of  drawing  water  three 
persons  are  required,  two  to  handle  the  bucket  and  one 
to  drive  the  team.  There  is  another  peculiar  arrange- 
ment by  which  they  draw  water,  which  consists  of  a 
kind  of  a  box-trough  with  an  axle,  two  men  turning 
with  their  feet,  as  if  in  a  tread-mill,  and  is  commonly 
used  for  slight  elevations.  The  chain  of  paddles  revolves 
around  two  axles — one  at  the  bottom  of  the  well  and  one 
at  the  top ;  in  construction  it  resembles  a  flour-elevator, 
and  raises  the  water  in  the  same  manner.  Comparatively 
few  animals,,  with  carts,  are  used  to  convey  water  upon 
the  land.  A  more  common  plan  of  irrigation  is  to  take 
advantasre  of  a  natural  brooklet  flowino-  down  a  hill-side, 
and  conduct  the  water  from  one  plat  to  another  till  it 
has  flowed  over  the  whole.  It  is  where  such  water- 
privileges  ofter  that  the  terrace  cultivation  is  often  seen. 
The  appearance  of  a  hill-side  thus  graduated  into  small 
ledges  is  beautiful  to  look  upon ;  each  plat  is  divided 
by  a  bank,  serving  the  triple  j^urpose  of  fence,  path,  and 
dike ;  wherever  the  soil  is  not  watered  the  vegetation  is 
languid  and  often  dead. 

The  buffalo  is  most  used  in  the  rice-fields,  and  the  ox 
and  the  ass  in  dry  ploughing;  horses,  mules,  cows,  and 


146  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

even  goats,  likewise  render  service  to  the  farmer  in  vari- 
ous ways,  and  tlie  different  animals  I  have  often  seen 
yoked  together.  The  Chinese  manure  the  plant  rather 
than  the  ground.  The  manure  is  gathered  where  cows 
have  been,  made  into  flat  cakes,  and  plastered  upon  some 
of  the  houses  in  country  towns  to  dry,  and  is  afterward 
piled  in  cords;  whether  it  was  being  prepared  for  the 
ground,  or  for  some  other  purpose,  I  was  at  a  loss  to 
know.  I  saw  it  not  only  in  China,  but  also  in  Japan 
and  India,  giving  employment  to  thousands  of  people. 
We  saw  it  plastered  up  both  on  the  common  country- 
houses  and  on  fences.  In  addition  to  these  flat  cakes, 
plastered  up  in  every  conceivable  place,  other  substances 
are  gathered,  as  hair  from  the  barbers'-shops,  exploded 
fire-crackers,  sweepings  from  the  streets,  lime  and  plaster 
from  old  buildings,  soot,  bones,  fish,  leaves,  and  the  mud 
from  the  bottom  of  canals,  which  are  decomposed  and 
used  for  fertilizing  the  soil ;  vegetable  rubbish  is  also 
collected  in  piles,  covered  with  turf,  and  then  burned. 

The  ripe  grain  is  commonly  cut  with  l)ill-hooks,  or 
pulled  up  by  the  roots ;  scythes  and  cradles  are  not  in 
use.  Rice-straw  is  made  into  brooms  and  brushes.  The 
rice-heads  are  stripped  ft-om  the  straw,  and  put  into  a 
large  stone  vessel  and  pounded  with  billets  of  wood  to 
disconnect  the  hulls  from  the  grain.  Some  of  the  larger 
farmers  have  thrashing-floors,  which  are  made  of  a  mixt- 
ure of  sand  and  cement,  well  pounded,  upon  an  inclined 
surface  inclosed  by  a  curb ;  this,  with  proper  care,  it  is 
said,  will  last  for  many  years,  and  is  used  in  some  of  the 
larger  villages  for  thrashing  out  peas,  rice,  and  mustaid- 


CHINESE   INDUSTRY.  147 

seed.  The  great  cotton  district  is  the  valley  of  the 
Yang-tse-kiang  River,  and  the  two  varieties,  white  and 
yellow,  grow  side  by  side.  After  the  cotton  has  been 
gathered  and  housed,  the  seeds  are  separated  by  a  wheel 
turning  two  rollers,  and  the  cotton  is  then  sold  by  each 
farmer  to  merchants  in  the  towns,  a  portion  being  kept 
for  weaving  at  home.  Spinning-wheels  and  looms  are 
common  articles  of  furniture  in  the  houses  of  the  Chinese 
peasantry. 

Many  plants  are  cultivated  for  their  oil,  to  be  used 
in  the  arts  as  well  as  in  cooking.  The  tallow-tree,  com- 
mon all  over  the  eastern  part  of  China,  is,  when  fully 
grown,  a  beautiful  tree.  The  seeds  are  formed  in  clus- 
ters like  small  berries,  and  when  ripe  are  covered  wdth 
pure  white  tallow ;  the  whole  is  then  sifted  on  a  hot 
sieve,  by  which  process  the  tallow  is  separated  from  the 
kernels.  The  candles  made  from  the  substance  procured 
from  the  tallow-tree  are  said  to  be  of  an  excellent  qual- 
ity. The  camphor-tree  is  also  found  in  China,  and  af- 
fords both  timber  and  gum.  The  tree  grows  very  large, 
and  furnishes  excellent  planks  and  beams  for  building 
houses  and  vessels,  and  making  trunks  and  other  arti- 
cles. Foreigners,  in  visiting  China,  frequently  purchase 
trunks  made  of  camphor-^vood.  I  bought  two  trunks, 
with  brass  trimmings,  about  three  feet  long,  eighteen 
inches  high,  and  twenty  inches  in  width,  which  cost  two 
dollars  apiece.  I  filled  them  with  china-ware,  and  made 
a  special  shipment  of  them  by  a  sailing-vessel  to  America. 
The  cassia-tree  also  grows  in  this  country,  and  its  dried 
bark  affords  the  principal  part  of  that  spice  used  in  the 


148  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

United  States.  It  is  said  that  the  bark  is  stripped  from 
the  twigs  by  running  a  knife  along  the  branches  and 
gradually  loosening  it,  and  it  is  then  dried  into  quill- 
shaped  rolls,  in  which  form  it  comes  to  market.  The 
pulpy  substance  which  is  found  in  the  pods  is  also  col- 
lected, and  sold  under  the  name  of  cassia-buds,  being 
applied  to  the  same  purposes  as  the  bark. 

Among  the  industrial  arts  of  the  Chinese,  the  manu- 
facturing of  silk  and  embroidery  is  a  specialty.  Raw 
silk  is  an  article  of  sale  in  the  market  of  Canton,  and 
is  largely  exported  to  foreign  countries  to  be  woven  into 
cloth.  The  loom  in  China  is  worked  by  two  persons, 
one  of  whom  sits  on  toj^  of  the  frame,  where  he  pulls  the 
treadles  and  assists  in  changing  the  various  parts  of  the 
machine.  The  workmen  imitate  almost  any  pattern,  ex- 
celling particularly  in  crapes,  and  flowered  satins  and 
damasks.  Silk  in  China  is  only  worn  by  the  higher 
class;  the  common  people  wear  pongee  and  nankeen, 
which  they  frequently  dye  black  or  blue. 

The  skill  of  the  Chinese  in  embroidering  is  well 
known  the  world  over,  and  the  demand  for  such  work, 
to  ornament  furniture,  adorn  ladies'  dresses,  for  embel- 
lishing purses,  shoes,  caps,  fans,  and  other  appendages  of 
the  dress  of  both  sexes,  and  for  working  shawls,  table- 
covers,  etc.,  for  exportation,  furnishes  emj^loyment  to 
thousands  of  both  men  and  women.  In  many  of  the 
stores  in  Canton  I  saw  the  occupants  sitting  flat  upon 
the  floor  working  upon  a  small  frame,  with  the  cloth 
stretched  out  upon  it.  All  the  work  is  done  by  the 
needle,  without  the  aid  of  machinery.     Books  are  pre- 


CHINESE   INDUSTRY.  -[49 

pared  for  tlie  use  of  embroiderers,  containing  patterns 
for  them  to  imitate.  Gold  and  silver  thread  is  occasion- 
ally added  to  impart  a  lustre  to  the  figures  on  caps, 
purses,  and  ladies'  shoes.  A  branch  of  the  embroidei'er's 
art  consists  in  the  formation  of  tassels  and  twisted  cords ; 
spangles  are  also  made  by  this  branch  in  every  possible 
shape  and  form.  The  mode  of  embroidery  seems  to  have 
been  known  among  the  Hebrews,  and  even  among  the 
Israelites,  where  it  is  spoken  of  in  Exodus  xxxv.  35  : 
"Them  hath  he  filled  with  wisdom  of  heart,  to  work  all 
manner  of  work,  of  the  engraver,  and  of  the  cunning 
workman,  and  of  the  embroiderer,  in  blue,  and  in  pur- 
ple, in  scarlet,  and  in  fine  linen." 

The  Chinese  are  not  entirely  ignorant  of  the  laws 
of  Moses,  and  of  the  prophets ;  but  of  Christ,  and  the 
teachings  of  his  glorious  gospel,  they  have  but  little  or 
no  knowledge.  Almost  the  last  words  uttered  by  the 
lips  of  our  Saviour  when  he  was  upon  earth,  were,  "  Go 
ye  into  all  the  world  and  preach  the  gospel  to  every 
creature."  Shortly  after  his  ascension  his  principal  dis- 
ciples branched  ofi:'  from  Jerusalem,  some  to  the  north, 
to  the  south,  to  the  west,  and  to  the  east ;  but  how  little 
has  been  done  for  the  salvation  of  China,  compared  with 
what  remains  to  be  done !  The  labor  hitherto  has  been 
chiefly  preparatory;  the  time  has  now  arrived  for  putting 
forth  direct  efforts  on  a  large  scale  for  the  evangelization 
of  the  people.  This  enterprise  demands  comprehensive 
views  and  plans ;  a  large  amount  of  faith,  prayer,  zeal, 
liberal  giving,  and  a  greater  number  of  laborers. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

HOTiTG-KOlSrG      TO      CEYLON. 

December  &th. — The  climate  of  Houg-Kong  is  con- 
sidered superior  to  that  of  most  other  places  situated 
within  the  tropics.  It  is  generally  healthy  as  a  resi- 
dence for  foreigners,  but  it  has  ol)taine(l  a  bad  reputa- 
tion from  the  numerous  deaths  occurrins;  in  1842,  at 
which  time  a  large  part  of  the  population  died.  Subse- 
quent years,  however,  have  shown  that,  with  proper  care, 
a^'oiding  the  sun  in  the  heat  of  the  day  and  keeping  out 
of  the  evening  dews,  as  good  a  degree  of  health  can  be 
enjoyed  here  as  in  most  other  places.  The  thermometer 
during  the  winter  months  stands  on  an  average  at  from 
50°  to  60°,  and  in  the  summer  months  at  80°  to  90°. 
But  at  Canton,  which  is  situated  farther  north,  the 
weather  is  at  least  ten  degrees  colder. 

December  ^th. — Inasmuch  as  the  island  of  Hong-Kong 
is  so  rough  and  mountainous,  supplies  are  chiefly  brought 
from  the  mainland  opposite,  where  the  country  is  very 
pi'oductive,  and  ample  demand  is  made  for  all  the  pro- 
visions it  can  furnish.  Three  or  four  newspapers  are 
published  here.  There  are  several  flourishing  institu- 
tions, namely,  the  Medical  Missionary  Society,  the  Sea- 
men's and  Military  Hospitals,  the  chapel  and  school  of 
the  London  Missionary  Society ;  the  Government-House, 


n02sG-K0NG    TO    CEYLON.  15 1 

jail,  and  exchange,  are  among  tlie  principal  edifices  in 
the  town. 

December  Sth.  —  The  English  Governor  has  estab- 
lished a  system  of  schools  of  different  grades  in  Hong- 
Kong.  These  schools  are  well  conducted,  and  mostly 
filled  with  Chinese  scholars,  who  are  taught  both  in 
English  and  Chinese  literature.  To-day,  among  other 
things,  we  pui'chased  a  pair  of  Chinese  vases,  and  made 
a  special  shipment  of  them  through  the  house  of  Russell 
<fe  Co.,  by  the  sailing-ship  Pilgrim,  which  is  expected  to 
arrive  in  New  York  in  about  four  months  from  this 
date. 

Decemher  ^tli. — To-day,  at  twelve  o'clock,  we  take 
passage  at  Hong-Kong  on  the  English  mail-ship  Gol- 
conda,  Captain  Anderson,  for  Ceylon,  stopping  at  Singa- 
pore and  Penang;  sailing  distance  thii*ty-one  hundred 
and  thii'ty-five  miles,  fare  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
dollars  each.  The  Golconda  is  built  of  iron,  of  two 
thousand  tons'  capacity,  propelled  by  a  stern-screw,  and 
full  rio;o;ed,  belongino;  to  the  fleet  of  the  Peninsula  & 
Oriental  Company.  We  have  in  company  fourteen  first- 
class  passengers,  among  whom  are  Sir  Edward  Dilks 
and  Mr.  Fowler,  members  of  the  British  Parliament. 
About  two  hours  after  leaving  port  our  ship  is  plough- 
ing through  the -China  Sea,  with  all  sail  set,  running 
before  a  stiff  monsoon. 

December  10th. — China  Sea.  Weather  clear,  wind 
northeast.  Thermometer  75°.  Course  south  by  west; 
latitude  18°  11'  north,  longitude  113°  49'  east.  Distance 
run,  from  yesterday  12  m.  up  to  12  m.  to-day,  two  hun- 


152  •      AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

dred  and  forty-six  miles.  We  have  been  running  since 
leaving  port  under  full  sail  before  the  monsoon,  which 
may  be  called  the  trade-wiud.  The  monsoon  has  a  ve- 
locity of  from  seven  to  eight  knots,  and  is  said  to  blow 
constantly  both  up  and  down  the  China  Sea  —  from 
March  to  November  from  the  equator,  and  the  following 
six  months  toward  the  equator — and  it  generally  ex- 
tends about  a  thousand  miles  on  each  side  of  the  equa- 
tor, and  vice  versa. 

A  few  remarks  on  the  marine  barometer  may  be  use- 
ful. It  is  said  that  there  is  no  part  of  the  world  where 
this  valuable  instrument  acts  so  truly  as  near  the  equa- 
tor, for  it  gives  certaiji  indications  of  approaching  gales 
by  a  rapid  fall  of  the  mercury,  and  it  often  does  this 
when  the  weather  is  perfectly  clear  and  without  a  visi- 
ble cloud.  It  is  closely  watched  by  the  ship's  officers, 
and  its  warnings  are  never  disregarded. 

December  11th. — China  Sea.  Weather  clear.  Ther- 
mometer 78°.  Course  south  by  west ;  latitude  14°  20' 
north,  longitude  111°  41'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12 
M.,  two  hundred  and  seventy-two  miles.  Ship  under  full' 
sail,  running  before  the  monsoon.  The  China  Sea  is 
very  difficult  to  navigate.  Captain  Anderson  is  a  faith- 
ful officer,  and  was  all  last  night  upon  the  bridge  on  the 
lookout  for  sunken  reefs,  and  yet  we  "are  over  one  hun- 
dred miles  from  land.  Many  sailing-ships  have  been 
wrecked  on  these  blind  ledges  of  rocks.  We  are  now 
not  far  from  the  Philippine  Islands. 

December  12th. — China  Sea.  This  being  the  Sabbath, 
divine  service  was  omitted  on  account  of  the  heavy  sea. 


HOFG-KONG    TO    CEYLON.  I53 

Weather  clear.  Thermometer  77°.  Course  south  by- 
west;  latitude  10°  13'  north,  longitude  109°  28'  east. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  eighty-three 
miles;  ship  running  under  full  press  of  canvas  before 
the  monsoon.  This  afternoon  we  spoke  an  American 
merchantman,  under  reefed  topsails,  homewai'd  bound 
laden  with  tea. 

December  13th. — China  Sea.  Weather  clear.  Ther- 
mometer 80°.  Course  south  by  west,  and  ship  running 
before  the  monsoon  under  fore  and  main  topsails;  sea 
high,  and  occasionally  one  sweeps  the  decks.  Latitude 
6°  1'  north,  longitude  104°  44'  east.  Distance  run,  up 
to  12  M.,  three  hundred  and  three  miles. 

December  l^th. — China  Sea.  Weather  rainy.  Ther- 
mometer 81°.  Course  south  by  west,  and  ship  scudding 
under  fore  and  main  topsails ;  sea  running  very  high,  and 
at  intervals  a  heavy  wave  comes  bounding  over  the  quar- 
ter-deck, the  passengers  running  hither  and  thither,  some 
grasping  the  rigging,  others  holding  fast  to  stanchions 
to  keep  on  their  feet ;  and,  while  taking  dinner,  the  shij) 
gave  a  lee-lurch,  as  old  sailors  call  it,  when  the  dishes 
and  crockery  upon  the  table  collided  and  broke  up  like 
pipe-stems.  We  arrive  at  Singapore  about  midnight, 
having  been  five  and  a  half  days  on  the  passage  from 
Hong-Kong,  and  without  regret  we  say  farewell  to  the 
China  Sea.  Captain  Anderson  informs  us  that  our  pas- 
sage was  a  favorable  one,  having  had  the  monsoon  with 
us ;  but  that  in  going  up  the  sea,  against  both  wind  and 
current,  the  voyage  is  much  longer,  and  often  the  waters 

more  turbulent. 
11 


154 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


Decemher  Ibtlt. — Singapore  is  an  island,  about  sixty 
miles  in  circumference,  situated  near  the  mainland,  and 
its  southern  border  is  about  thirty  miles  north  of  the 
equator.  It  has  a  population  of  one  hundred  and  sixty- 
five  thousand,  which  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  harbor 
is  excellent  for  shipping,  being  land-locked  on  every  side 


si>;gapore. 


by  high  Iduffs.  The  steamship  companies  have  good 
docks  erected,  on  which  is  a  large  supply  of  coals  piled 
up  and  housed  over.  Singapore  is  a  coaling-depot  for 
all  steamers,  and  the  coal  is  brought  mostly  from  Eng- 
land around  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  in 
sailing-ships.     It  is  in  reality  the  touching-place  for  all 


HONG-KONG    TO    CEYLON.  155 

steamers  which  pass  through  the  straits  of  Malacca;  or 
from  whatever  quarter  they  may  come.  Constant  com- 
munication is  kept  up  with  the  rest  of  the  world  by 
almost  daily  arrivals  of  both  steam  and  sailing  ships. 
Singa23ore  is  an  English  colony,  and  is  not  an  undesirable 
place  for  residence,  being  on  the  great  highway  of  the 
nations  east  and  west.  Its  chief  attractions  consist  in 
its  delightful  climate  and  its  rare  productions.  It  enjoys 
peri^etual  summer,  and  the  atmosphere  being  moistened 
by  the  sea-breeze,  and  the  frequent  showers  with  which 
it  is  visited  at  all  seasons,  the  heat  is  never  oppressive, 
the  thermometer  seldom  rising  above  90°  and  rarely 
going  below  70°.  The  island  itself  surpasses,  in  the 
variety  and  richness  of  its  vegetable  growth,  all  my  ex- 
pectations. In  riding  through  the  country,  we  pass  over 
delightful  macadamized  roads,  made  at  the  expense  of 
the  English  colonists,  overshadowed  by  the  growth  of 
large  evergreen  trees.  The  pineapple  grows  here  with 
great  luxuriance,  the  fruit  of  enormous  size,  the  largest 
of  which  can  be  bought  for  one  dollar  a  hundred ;  the 
banana  is  also  very  plentiful,  and  almost  every  other 
kind  of  fruit  and  nut  of  a  tropical  nature  grows  here. 
One  of  the  most  conspicuous  trees  upon  the  island  is  the 
fan-palm,  which  is  a  large  tree,  straight  as  a  reed ;  the 
top  is  in  the  shape  of  a  fan,  as  flat  as  if  it  had  been 
placed  in  a  press,  while  the  circle  of  the  leaves  alone  on 
the  larger  trees  is  at  least  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and 
resembles  the  tail  of  a  peacock  when  fully  spread.  We 
rode  out  to  the  botanical  garden  or  park,  which  is  well 
laid  out  and  kept  filled  with  a  great  variety  of  trees  and 


156  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

plants  from  different  climes.  One  cannot  go  amiss  in 
Singapore  in  looking  over  this  beautiful  island,  wliicli  is 
covered  with  wliat  seems  a  spontaneous  growth  of  all 
that  is  graceful  and  attractive  in  verdure  and  vegetation. 
The  jungle  and  the  forest  abound  in  different  kinds  of 
birds  of  the  richest  plumage,  tribes  of  monkeys  chatter 
among  the  branches  of  the  trees,  and  occasionally  a  tiger 
makes  his  appearance,  when  hard  pressed  for  something 
to  eat,  but  we  were  not  fortunate  enough  to  see  one  of 
this  ferocious  tribe. 

Singapore  for  its  size  has  a  more  mixed  population  than 
any  other  city  in  the  world,  almost  every  nation  being  rep- 
resented, but  the  Malays  are  the  most  numerous.  Here 
we  saw  humanity  in  its  primitive  state:  some  of  the 
natives  were  as  naked  as  when  they  were  born,  while 
others  wore  only  a  thin  piece  of  muslin  cloth,  a  few 
inches  in  width,  across  the  loins.  The  costume  of  the 
ordinary  (or  probably  lower)  class  of  females  consisted 
of  a  loose  skirt  of  Turkish  red,  with  a  thin  white  or 
yellow^  shawl  thrown  carelessly  over  one  shoulder;  they 
were  bareheaded  and  barefooted,  with  rings  uj^on  their 
toes  and  bracelets  around  the  ankles,  three  rings  in  each 
ear,  and  one  ring,  about  the  size  in  circumference  of  a 
silver  dollar,  in  the  nose,  and  having  their  long,  black, 
glossy  hair  trimmed  wnth  rich  ornaments.  In  stature  they 
are  under  the  ordinary  size,  with  small  features,  mild 
countenances,  and  are  rather  an  attractive  race  of  peo2')le, 
nearly  as  dark  as  the  negro.  These  people  seemingly 
live  a  life  of  idleness ;  it  costs  them  little  or  nothing  for 
clothing,  and  Nature  has  abundantly  supplied  them  with 


HONG-KONG    TO    CEYLON.  157 

all  the  spices,  nuts,  and  delicious  fruits  imaginable,  which 
require  little  or  no  cultivation  ;  and  their  rivers  and  bays 
are  tilled  with  a  variety  of  fine  fish,  \vhich  are  taken 
either  with  the  hook  and  line  or  the  net,  with  the  least 
possible  labor.  The  dense  forests  abound  in  wild  game, 
which  is  tame  compared  with  that  in  civilized  coun- 
tries, for  the  natives  use  no  fire-arms ;  all  wild  game  is 
taken  by  snares,  traps,  nets,  and  the  bow  and  arrow. 
By  the  common  people  very  little  regard  is  paid  to  the 
cultivation  of  the  soil. 

Singapore  was  once  a  very  important  missionary  sta- 
tion, not  so  much,  however,  in  its  relation  to  the  perma- 

7  7  7  jL 

nent  population  of  the  place  as  on  account  of  its  oftering 
an  opportunity  to  exert  an  influence  upon  China  and 
other  neighboring  countries.  It  served  as  a  foothold,  or 
standing-place,  on  which  to  operate  while  the  Celestial 
Empire  was  closed  to  foreigners.  At  one  time  there 
were  as  many  as  thirty  missionaries  upon  this  island, 
but  just  as  soon  as  the  Chinese  Em2)ire  was  thrown  open 
the  force  moved  on,  and  now  there  are  only  some  two 
or  three  remainino^. 

The  European  dwellings  in  the  city  do  not  materially 
difi^er  from  those  in  the  Chinese  concessions,  while  the 
huts  of  the  natives,  in  some  places,  are  raised  on  stakes 
four  or  five  feet  above  the  ground,  for  the  purpose  of 
drainage,  and  for  better  security  against  poisonous  rep- 
tiles and  beasts  of  prey. 

December  \Qth.  —  There  are  one  or  two  very  good 
hotels  in  Singapore.  The  Hotel  de  I'Europe  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  the  margin  of  the  bay,  overlooking 


158  AROUND    THE    WOBLD. 

the  shipping  in  the  harbor.  Very  good  rooms  can  he 
obtained  at  three  dollars  per  day ;  but,  during  our  stay 
of  two  days,  we  preferred  to  stop  overnight  on  shipboard, 
where  we  had  excellent  accommodations.  Captain  An- 
derson doing  everything  possiljle  for  the  comfort  and 
enjoyment  of  his  passengers.  We  devoted  some  time  to 
shopping,  occasionally  buying  small  articles  of  native 
manufacture.  Some  of  the  stores  were  filled  with  rare 
curiosities.  Just  before  our  ship  sailed,  scores  of  the 
natives  came  on  board  offering  canes,  embroidery-work, 
sea-shells,  and  a  variety  of  other  things,  for  sale,  for 
which  they  at  first  often  asked  more  than  double  what 
they  would  finally  take. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  ship's  moorings 
are  cast  off  from  the  dock,  and  in  a  few  moments  we  are 
steaming  out  of  the  harbor,  passing  through  groups  of 
smaller  islands  clad  with  brushwood  and  o;reen  foliao-e, 
and  occasionally  gardens  of  vegetation  most  beautiful 
to  behold,  and  hundreds  of  boats  filled  with  men  and 
women  taking-  fish.  After  leavino-  this  small  cluster  of 
islands  we  enter  the  straits  of  Malacca,  throug^h  which 
channel  all  ships  sailing  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  go  to  China.  The  British  Government  has,  with 
its  usual  sagacity,  secured  the  ancient  town  of  Malacca 
on  the  Malay  Peninsula.  The  straits  are  four  hundred 
miles  long,  and  here  about  seven  miles  wide,  but  in  some 
places  more  than  twice  this  width. 

December  I'ltJi.—We  were  all  day  passing  through 
the  Malacca  Straits;  the  weather  is  most  delightful,  and 
the  sea  as  smooth  as  a  pond.     In  looking  through  the 


HONG-KONG    TO    CEYLON.  159 

2rlass  we  cmild  see  the  mainland  of  Malacca  on  one  side, 
and  the  island  of  Sumatra  on  the  other.  Through  the 
day  we  passed  quite  a  number  of  lai'ge  shi])s. 

December  IStJi. — This  morning  early  we  arrive  at 
Penang,  having  been  fully  forty  hours  on  our  pa-sage 
from  Singapore.  The  native  l)oats  made  a  raid  upon 
the  passengers  by  the  time  the  ship's  anchor  touched 
bottom ;  we  finally  secured  a  small  boat  and  went  on 
shore,  where  we  found  carriages  in  ]-eadiness  to  convey 
the  passengers  either  to  the  hotels  or  over  the  island. 
We  hired  a  conveyance,  and  rode  out  to  the  mountains; 
here  we  saw  a  waterfall,  which  the  natives  consider  the 
most  interestino;  natural  curiosity  in  the  island.  This 
cascade  has  its  source  from  the  summit  of  the  mountains, 
some  two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.  After  makinof  a 
considerable  ascent,  we  reached  a  brawling  torrent,  and 
followed  its  bank  under  the  shade  of  palm  and  spice 
trees  till  we  came  to  a  small  Hindoo  temple,  adorned 
with  a  rustic  veranda  of  palm-bushes,  but  looking  rather 
dila[)idated  in  consequence  of  its-  great  antiquity.  Here 
we  were  welcomed  by  the  Brahman  priest,  who  expected 
a  little  money  to  assist  in  keeping  the  temple  in  repair. 
We  rested  a  while  under  a  shade-tree,  and  then  our  valet 
conducted  us  to  an  adjoining  wood  to  gather  nutmegs 
and  cloves.  Ascending  from  here  some  two  or  three 
hundred  feet,  over  natural  stone  steps,  we  came  to  the 
basin  into  which  the  torrent  plunges,  for  a  hundred  feet 
or  more,  breaking  into  sparkling  jets  as  it  dashes  against 
the  granite  rocks.  Descending  to  the  plain,  where  we 
had  left  our  carriage,  we  found  that  our  attendants  had 


1(50  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

spread  upon  a  tal)le  boiled  chickens,  boiled  eggs,  and 
cold  liam,  for  those  who  wished  a  good  lunch. 

Penang  is  an  island,  situated  about  a  mile  from  the 
mainland,  and  is  about  the  size  of  Staten  Island  in  the 
bay  of  New  York.  It  is  broken  and  mountainous ;  some 
parts  are  heavily  timbered,  and  the  brushwood  so  thick 
that  it  cannot  be  penetrated.  Here  we  had  pointed  out 
to  us  the  snake-grass,  which  is  a  small  speai-,  and  on 
which  the  snakes  subsist.  It  is  said  that  this  island 
abounds  with  serpents  and  other  reptiles  of  a  dangerous 
character.  A  snake  twenty-six  feet  in  length  was  capt- 
ured in  the  jungle  last  week,  and  some  have  been  taken 
much  larger. 

On  all  these  islands  near  the  equator  there  is  a  great 
amount  of  rainfall.  When  the  sunny  sky  is  perfectly 
clear,  drops  of  rain  will  come  down  of  the  size  of  peas, 
and  then  it  will  stop  for  the  space  of  a  few  hours.  In 
consequence  of  the  hot  weather,  shrubbery,  vegetation, 
and  wooded  thickets,  grow  much  more  thriftily  than  in 
colder  climates. 

The  city  of  Penang  is  even  more  beautiful,  at  least 
some  parts  of  it,  than  Singapore,  and  the  country  as- 
sumes the  same  luxuriant,  tropical  appearance,  abound- 
ing in  spice,  palm,  and  cocoanut  groves.  Just  across  the 
river  from  here,  about  one  mile  distant  on  the  mainland, 
there  is  a  fearful  war  raging  between  the  English  colo- 
nists and  the  natives.  After  rambling  all  the  forenoon 
we  returned  on  board  quite  fatigued,  but  what  we  had 
seen  was  most  interesting. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  resume  our  jour- 


HONG-KONG    TO    CEYLON. 


161 


iiey,  en  route  for  Ceylon.  As  we  are  steaming  out  of  the 
liarbor  we  pass  by  a  large  emigi-ant-sliip,  loaded  with 
coolies,  supposed  to  be  bound  for  the  West  Indies.  The 
weather  is  clear,  and  the  sea  smooth. 

December  V^tli. — This  morning  w^e  find  ourselves  on 
the  great  Indian  Ocean.  This  being  the  Sabbath,  divine 
service  was  administered  in  the  English  form  by  Captain 


NATIVE    OF    SAIGON. 


Grant,  one  of  the  passengers,  of  the  English  Eoyal  Navy. 
On  shipboard,  in  the  English  Navy,  the  administration 
of  divine  service,  at  least  once  on  every  Sabbath,  is  made 
a  compulsory  duty.^ 

Last  evening  we  passed  over  the  ninety-eightli  me- 
ridian of  east  longitude,  which  brings  us  on  a  direct  line 
over  the  city  of  New  York.  The  sky  is  clouded  over 
and  at  intervals  raining;  wind  light.    Thermometer  76°. 


162  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

Ship's  course  west  by  nortli;  latitude  5°  59'  nortli,  lon- 
i^itude  96°  44'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty-two  miles.  This  morning  early,  while 
Mrs.  Winants  was  dressing,  she  ordered  the  side-port 
connected  with  the  state-room  to  be  opened,  in  order  to 
obtain  fresh  air,  and  a  few  moments  after  one  sinirle 
sea  rushed  through  and  completely  flooded  the  room. 
Toward  evening  we  are  in  sight  of  the  island  of  Sumatra, 
upon  which  war  is  and  has  been  raging  for  the  last  two 
years,  between  the  Dutch  colonists  and  the  natives. 
From  reports  received  the  Dutch  are  getting  the  worst 
of  the  fiofht. 

Decemher  'iOth. — Indian  Ocean.  The  weather  is  most 
delightful,  with  little  or  no  wind,  and  the  ocean  is  as 
smooth  as  glass.  Thermometer  84°.  Course  west ;  lati- 
tude 6°  5'  north,  longitude  91°  44'  east.  Distance  run, 
up  to  12  M.,  two  hundred  and  ninety-eight  miles.  Our 
crew  of  sailors  and  waiters  are  Malays ;  they  run  up  the 
rigging  as  quickly  as  monkeys,  and  are  ready  at  every 
call.  Captain  Anderson  said  that  he  preferred  them  to 
English  seamen,  being  more  easily  managed,  but  they 
cannot  endure  a  cold  climate. 

December  2 Is^.— Indian  Ocean.  The  weather  is  clear 
and  charming,  and  the  sea  is  as  smooth  as  a  mirror. 
Thermometer  82°.  Course  west;  latitude  6°  north,  lon- 
gitude 86°  48'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hun- 
dred and  ninety-nine  miles. 

Decemher  22d. — Indian  Ocean.  Weather  very  fine, 
wind  light  from  the  northwest,  and  sea  smooth.  Ther- 
mometer 82°.     Course  west;  latitude  6°  7' north,  longi- 


,  HONG-KONG    TO    CEYLON.  ^gg 

tude  82°  21'  east.     Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hun- 
dred and  sixty-six  miles. 

December  23c/. — This  morning  early  we  arrive  at  Point 
de  Galle,  Ceylon,  having  been  fourteen  days  on  our  pas- 
sage from  Hong-Kong.  Here  we  are  again  surrounded 
by  the  native  boatmen.  Their  boats  are  different  from 
any  that  I  have  yet  seen ;  the  boat  itself  is  some  twenty 
feet  long,  and  only  two  feet  in  width,  and  about  as  deei:), 
canoe  model,  and  with  two  poles  about  six  feet  long 
running  across  the  boat,  one  forward,  the  other  astern, 
attached  to  a  log  of  the  length  of  the  boat  to  keep  the 
craft  from  turning  over;  and,  instead  of  rowing  in  tlie 
ordinary  way,  one  man  pulls  with  a  single  oar  and  an- 
other steers  the  craft  with  a  long  sweep.  We  land  at 
the  custom-house  wharf,  where  our  baggage  undergoes  a 
slight  examination  by  the  officers  in  charge,  and  we  are 
then  driven  to  the  Oriental  Hotel ;  board  seven  rupees 
per  day.  Rupees  are  the  currency  of  the  country,  and 
are  worth  forty-eight  cents  of  American  coin  each ;  they 
are  of  silver,  nearly  of  the  weight  and  size  of  the  Amer- 
ican half  dollar,  and  j^ass  current  throughout  the  whole 
of  British  India. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

CEYLON. 

The  island  of  Ceylon  is  situated  about  three  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  north  of  the  equator ;  its  greatest  length 
is  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  and  breadth  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles.  This  island  constitutes  a  distinct 
British  province,  and  is  under  the  control  and  super- 
vision of  the  British  Government.  The  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  mountainous,  but  the  soil  is  rich  in  fertility,  well 
timbered  with  a  large  variety  of  spice,  royal  palm,  and 
Oriental  shade-trees.  In  the  interior  of  the  island  asfri- 
cultural  pursuits  are  more  extensive ;  the  principal  crops 
are  coffee  and  rice,  and  on  some  plantations  the  tea-plant 
is  cultivated,  but  does  not  thrive  as  in  colder  climates. 
Nearly  all  kinds  of  vegetables  are  raised  in  every  part 
of  the  island.  Wild  beasts  are  numerous;  leopards, 
elephants,  tigers,  and  a  variety  of  smaller  animals,  are 
captured  upon  the  island. 

The  natives  are  almost  as  dark  as  the  West  India 
negro,  with  small  features,  long,  glossy-black  hair,  and 
thin  lips,  possessing  a  mild  and  inoffensive  countenance, 
and  pleasant  manners ;  even  the  most  lowly  of  them,  on 
meeting  strangers,  will  make  a  graceful  bow. 

There  is  only  about  five  degrees'  difference  in  the  cli- 
mate between    summer  and   winter :    the  thermometer 


CEYLON.  1(35 

during  the  winter,  on  an  average,  in  the  shade,  stands 
at  about  85°,  and  in  the  summer  it  rarely  rises  above 
90°.  During  our  sojourn  of  ten  days,  the  mercury  has 
stood  at  an  average  of  85° ;  I  must  confess,  however,  that 
it  is  rather  warm  for  winter,  but  during  the  evenings  we 
experienced  a  soft,  gentle  breeze  from  off  the  sea,  and 
found  a  blanket  comfortable.  During  the  day,  from  ten 
to  four  o'clock,  it  is  desirable  to  keep  in  the  shade  and 
remain  quiet,  to  avoid  sunstroke. 

December  24:th. — To-day  in  walking  out  we  are  be- 
sieged by  the  natives,  who  would  follow  wherever  we 
went,  enticing  us  to  buy  specialties  of  the  country,  such 
as  turtle-shell- work  jewelry,  canes,  birds,  pearls,  ivory 
ornaments,  and  polecats.  When  we  declined  to  purchase 
at  the  price  asked,  they  would  then  say,  "  What  will 
you  give  ?  "  and  we  generally  bought  for  less  than  one- 
half  the  price  originally  asked.  The  money-brokers  are 
another  pest,  doing  their  official  business  on  the  street, 
and  following  the  stranger  from  pillar  to  post.  Scores 
of  them  kept  on  our  track,  day  after  day,  offering  rupees 
in  exchange  for  foreign  coin.  These  brokers  are  very 
shrewd  and  bright,  and  could  compute  the  difference 
and  the  discount  in  their  heads,  without  pen  or  pencil, 
quicker  than  we  Americans. 

December  "Ihth. — This  being  Christmas-day,  the  hotel 
in  which  we  are  boarding  is  beautifully  trimmed ;  the 
veranda,  which  reaches  the  entire  length  of  the  building, 
is  beautifully  decorated  with  a  complete  network  of  ever- 
greens and  flowers,  the  work  having  been  executed  the 
evening  previous  by  the  natives.     From  many  of  the 


166  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

public  offices  and  buildings,  and  the  shipping  in  the 
harbor,  the  British  flag  was  seen  proudly  floating  to  the 
blossom-laden  breeze. 

In  the  forenoon  we  attended  divine  service  in  the 
Protestant  Reformed  church,  which  is  a  neat  edifice,  and 
beautifully  located  on  an  eminence  fronting  on  and  over- 
looking the  sea.  The  congregation  consisted  principally 
of  natives,  who  were  neatly  clad,  and  paid  marked  atten- 
tion to  the  service.  The  choir  numbers  some  twenty 
native  singers  of  both  sexes,  accompanied  by  an  organ, 
the  combination  producing  very  pretty  music. 

December  ^Qth. — :This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  again 
attended  at  the  Protestant  Keformed  church,  both  morn- 
and  evening.  The  building  was  very  well  filled,  princi- 
pally by  the  native  element.  They  have  established  a 
mission-school  here  to  educate  the  young  in  English, 
which  is  said  to  be  well  conducted,  under  the  auspices 
of  English  teachers.  The  school-house  is  beautifully 
situated  on  an  eminence  under  the  shade  of  Oriental 
trees,  through  which  the  -gentle  breezes  blow  soft  and 
frao-rant  alono;  the  coast. 

December  2^th. — To-day  we  proposed  going  on  a  visit 
to  Kandy — which  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
island,  and  is  reached  by  riding  seventy-two  miles  in  a 
heavy  coach  drawn  by  four  horses,  and  about  forty  miles 
by  rail  in  addition — but,  as  we  knew  the  roads  to  be 
dusty,  and  the  weather  very  hot,  we  declined  making 
the  excursion. 

Point  de  Galle  is  the  principal  stopping-place  for 
steamers  going  to   and  from  London  to  India,  China, 


CEYLON.  1^^ 

Australia,  and  many  other  Eastern  and  Southern  ports, 
and  it  is  also  the  great  central  coaling-station.  Sailing- 
ships  are  constantly  engaged  bringing  coal  from  Eng- 
land, around  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  for 
the  use  of  the  numerous  steamers  stopping  at  this  point. 

The  island  of  Ceylon  is  conceded  by  many  to  be  the 
paradise  of  the  world,  both  in  scenery  and  climate.  The 
air  is  laden  with  sweet-scented  odors,  blowing  gently 
from  off  the  spicy  forests,  and  the  entire  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  covered  with  the  royal  palm  and  a  great  variety 
of  tropical  fruit-trees. 

'\^  l^December  1'^tli. — To-day  a  native  missionary  minister 
of  the  gospel  called  on  me,  soliciting  a  donation  to  assist 
the  mission  in  the  construction  of  a  new  school-liouse. 
He  said  that  he  had  been  converted  from  Buddhism  to 
Christianity  when  young,  and  was  educated  by  the  mis- 
sionaries for  the  ministry,  and  that  he  had  by  assiduous 
application  brought  many  of  his  countrymen  to  the  true 
knowledo-e  of  salvation. 

December  2^th. — Both  males  "and  females  go  bare- 
footed and  bareheaded.  Their  costume  is  often  so  sim- 
ilar that  the  only  way  in  which  they  can  be  distin- 
guished is  by  their  long  black  hair :  th.e  men  have  theirs 
put  up  with  combs ;  the  women  theirs  tied  in  a  knot  upon 
the  top  of  the  head.  This  afternoon  we  ride  out  in  the 
country  through  the  heavy  forests,  which  are  thickly 
studded  v/ith  the  cocoanut  -  tree.  The  cocoanut  -  tree 
is  of  all  palms  most  deservedly  valued,  as  one  of  the 
greatest  of  the  many  blessings  bestowed  by  a  bountiful 
Providence  upon  the  inhabitants  of  a  tropical  climate. 


168  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

It  is  a  common  saying  that  tlie  cocoanut-tree  lias  ninety- 
nine  uses,  and  that  the  hundredth  cannot  be  discovered. 
This  palm  is  from  sixty  to  a  hundred  feet  in  height,  one 
or  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  as  straight  as  a  reed ;  there 
are  no  branches  upon  the  trunk  of  the  tree  till  within  a 
few  feet  of  the  top,  which  is  crowned  with  magnificent 
clusters  of  fruit  and  leaves,  each  leaf  about  fourteen  feet 
in  length,  resembling  an  enormous  feather.      It  grows 
best  on  the  low,  flat  grounds  that  border  the  sea-coast. 
It  is  a  very  prolific  tree,  bringing  forth  flowers  every 
four  or  five  weeks ;  the  flowers  and  the  fruit  are  gener- 
ally to  be  seen  at  the  same  time.     Of  the  roots  baskets 
are  made ;    of  the   hollowed   trunks   pipes  for  leading 
water ;  from  the  leaf  coarse  sack-cloth  is  manufactured ; 
the  bud  is  accounted  a  delicacy  for  the  table  ;  the  leaves 
are  used   for  thatching  buildings,  for  making  baskets, 
fences,  and  children's  cradles ;  and  the  nut  furnishes  the 
chief  diet  of  the  Cingalese.    The  woody  ribs  upon  whicli 
the  leaves  grow  are  formed  into  a  kind  of  basket-work 
for   catching  fish,  and  into  brushes  and  bi'ooms ;  when 
the  wood  is  burned,  good  potash  is  yielded  by  the  ashes, 
and  used  by  washer-women  instead  of  soap;  the  juice  of 
the  flower  is  distilled  into  a  beverage  called  arrack,  the 
excessive  drinking  of  which  brings  on  intoxication ;  the 
coarse  covering  of  the  nut  is  stripped  oif  and  made  into 
cables  and  rigging  for  ships,  and  many  other  uses.. 

The  bread-fruit  tree  is  also  to  be  seen  intermingled 
with  the  forests ;  it  is  about  forty  feet  high,  having  a 
trunk  much  larger  than  the  palm,  resembling  more  the 
oak,  with  the  exception  of  the  leaves,  which  are  much 


CEYLON.  ■  1(^9 

larger  tlian  the  oak-leaf,  and  the  fruit  hangs  from  the 
"branches  like  apples,  but  will  weigh  from  eight  to  ten 
pounds  each.  The  Cingalese  are  proud  of  the  bread- 
fruit tree,  and  two  or  three  may  always  be  seen  around 
a  native  cottage,  shading  it  with  their  2:)rolific  branches. 
It  bears  fruit  in  five  years,  from  the  liranch  set  out,  and 
will  continue  to  bear,  even  in  its  wild  state,  for  more 
than  half  a  century.  By  baking  the  fruit  over  a  slow 
tire  it  is  made  into  flour,  and  then  into  bread,  upon  which 
the  natives  principally  subsist,  and  which  is  considered 
bv  them  the  staff  of  life. 

There  is  still  another  valuable  tree,  which  \ve  see 
growing  wild  in  the  forest,  called  the  jaca,  and  which  is 
much  laro^er  than  the  bread-fruit  tree,  the  trunk  beinof 
from  five  to  six  feet  in  circumference  ;  the  fruit  is  oblong 
and  large,  ten  to  twelve  pounds  in  weight,  and  the  na- 
tives eat  it  freely.  Many  different  kinds  of  sj^ice  and 
nut  trees  may  be  seen  growing  wild  in  the  thick  forests. 
I  am  informed  that  there  is  not  a  shrub,  tree,  or  plant, 
growing  upon  the  islands  bordering  upon  the  equator, 
that  is  not  of  some  benefit  to  the  inhabitants. 

Ceylon  can  well  be  called  the  paradise  of  the  world, 
for  Providence  has  provided  the  people  with  all  luxuries 
imaginable.  Besides  her  forests  being  filled  with  wild 
game  in  abundance,  her  trees  bring  forth  fruit,  both  for 
food  and  beverage ;  her  rivers  and  bays  are  filled  with 
a  variety  of  fine  fish,  all  sent  by  Him  who  rules  over  the 
universe,  to  feed  the  peoj)le  in  this  heathen  and  far-off 
land. 

December  SOth. — This  afternoon  we  took  a  ride  around 

12 


170 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


the  bay.  We  stopped  on  tlie  way  at  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal bungalows,  and  also  at  the  Buddhist  temple,  where 
we  were  sho^vn  the  idols  and  gods  which  they  worship. 
There  were  some  eight  or  ten  priests  in  and  around  this 
small  temple,  whose  dress  consisted  of  a  large  yellow 
shawl  wrapped  around  the  bare  l)ody.  They  were  the 
most  forlorn  specimens  of  humanity  I  ever  saw,  Avithout 


NATITCH  GIRLS. 


shoes  or  hats,  and  having  their  hair  shaved  close  to  the 
head.  The  priests  in  this  country  are  not  allowed  to 
marry,  or  keep  concubines.  Whenever  one  of  them  dies, 
the  body  is  burned  upon  an  altar,  and  the  ashes,  put  in 
a  stone  jar,  are  offered  up  in  sacrifice  unto  idols. 

December  ^Ist. — Whenever  we  go  into  the  streets, 
either  to  walk  or  ride,  we  are  pestered  with  beggars; 
there  seems  to  be  no  end  of  them.     This  afternoon  while 


CEYLON.  ]7l 

riding  out,  a  large  canipaiiy  of  men  and  boys  followed 
tlie  carriage  for  two  or  three  miles;  as  one  crowd  tired 
out,  in  going  tlirougli  some  village,  a  new  set  would 
spring  up  and  keep  pace  with  the  horses.  We  saw  but 
few  women,  for  they  kept  more  in  the  huts.  As  we 
were  passing  through  the  woods  a  guana  came  out  of  a 
swamp.  This  reptile  resembles  the  alligator,  excepting 
that  it  has  a  tongue  like  a  snake.  Those  that  inhabit 
the  swamps  and  rivers  are  black,  and  those  living  on  the 
land  are  gray;  they  are  often  from  twelve  to  fifteen  feet 
long.  On  our  return  "\ve  stopped  in  a  cinnamon-grove, 
and  got  some  bark. 

January  1,  1876. — This  is  the  warmest  New-Year's- 
■day  that  I  have  ever  experienced,  the  thermometer  in- 
dicating 86°  in  the  shade.  The  colonists,  and  also  some 
of  the  natives,  observed  it  as  a  general  holiday.  In  walk- 
ing out  through  the  woods,  in  the  cool  of  the  day,  we 
•came  to  a  very  fine  bungalow.  The  gate  was  open,  and 
we  concluded  to  walk  in  the  grounds,  where  we  were 
politely  met  by  a  middle-aged  gentleman,  who,  after 
plucking  some  flowers  for  us,  extended  us  an  invitation 
to  go  and  see  his  father,  to  which  we  gave  our  consent. 
We  found  the  old  gentleman  sitting  on  the  front  veranda. 
He  said  he  knew  that  we  were  Americans ;  that  he  was 
at  all  times  glad  to  see  and  talk  with  people  from  the 
New  World,  for  he  had  heard  that  it  was  a  fine  country, 
and  it  had  once  been  ruled  by  George  Washington,  one 
of  the  greatest  statesmen  of  any  age  of  the  world's  his- 
tory. He  said  he  was  eighty-six  years  of  age,  and  had 
three  sons.     I  asked  him  how  he  liked  his  queen;  he 


172  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

said  that  Queen  Victoria  was  a  lady  of  liigli -toned  cliar- 
acter,  and  had  been  a  good  ruler,  much  better  than  his 
countrymen,  who  are  incapable  of  governing  themselves. 
January  2d. — This  morning  early  the  steamship 
Surat,  Captain  Burn,  arrived  in  port  from  London,  on 
which  we  engaged  passage  for  Calcutta,  distance  thirteen 
hundred  and  thirty  miles;  fare  twenty  rupees,  or  ten 
dollars'  each,  being  pi'obably  the  cheapest  passage  in  the 
world  for  so  long  a  distance.  But  this  is  easily  accounted 
for,  as  there  are  some  two  or  three  rival  lines  between 
Ceylon  and  Calcutta ;  the  regular  fare  on  certain  days, 
when  the  opposing  shij)s  are  not  in,  is  one  hundred  and 
sixty  rupees.  The  Surat  is  of  three  thousand  tons'  bur- 
den, full-rigged,  built  of  iron,  propelled  by  a  stern-screw, 
and  belongs  to  the  English  mail  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
line.  After  taking  tiffin,  or  lunch,  at  the  hotel,  we  pay 
our  bills  and  hasten  on  board.  We  have  in  company 
some  tMrty-five  first-class  passengers,  the  most  of  whom 
were  direct  from  London,  en  route  for  Calcutta, 


CHAPTER   XV. 

CEYLOlSr      TO      CALCUTTA. 

January  3d. — Bay  of  Bengal.  We  are  all  day  in 
siy'lit  of  land,  and  sailing  along  the  westerly  coast  of 
Ceylon.  The  weatlier  is  most  charming,  wind  light,  and 
sea  smooth.  Thermometer  80°.  Course  north  by  west  5 
latitude  7°  5'  north,  longitude  82°  3'  east.  Distance  run, 
up  to  12  :\r.,  one  hundred  and  fifty^four  miles. 

January  Uh. — Bay  of  Bengal.  Weather  line,  and 
sea  smooth.  Thermometer  80°.  Course  north  by  west; 
latitude  10°  north,  longitude  81°  8'  east.  Distance  run, 
up  to  12  M,,  two  hundred  and  forty-five  miles. 

January  oth. — This  morning  early  we  arrived  at  Ma- 
dras, India.  Our  ship  dropped  anchor  about  one  mile  from 
the  shore,  which  is  a  very  rough  and  dangerous  place 
to  land.  We  are  carried  on  shore  in  a  laro;e  surf-boat 
manned  by  fourteen  natives,  twelve  pulling  at  the  oars, 
one  steerino;  the  boat,  and  one  or  two  standins;  in  readi- 
ness  to  bale  water  as  it  occasionally  broke  over  the  bows. 
As  the  boat  approached  the  sandy  beach,  we  were  nearly 
swamped  by  the  angry  breakers ;  the  sailors,  in  great 
haste,  sprang  from  the  boat  into  the  surf,  and  carried  us 
in  sedan-chairs  upon  dry  land.  At  times,  when  the  sea 
is  very  rough,  ships  do  not  venture  to  land,  but  both 
freight  and  passengers  are  carried  to  Calcutta. 


174 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


We  are  now  landed  on  tlie  great  continent  of  ludia^ 
containing  a  population  of  over  two  liundred  million 
souls,  with  a  territory  covering  one  and  a  half  million 
square  miles.  How  strange  it  seems  that  this  dominion 
of  India,  with  such  a  large  population,  can  be  controlled 
by  the  far-off  island  of  Great  Britain,  w^hich  contains  only 


MADRAS  SURF. 


thirty  million  !  And  yet  there  is  a  reason  for  it :  weak 
and  ignorant  tribes  and  nations  are  generally  found  de- 
pendent on  stronger  and  more  enlightened  ones,  and  are 
often  absorbed  by  them.  All  Christian  and  prosperous 
nations  must  expand.  If  practicable,  the  exj^ansion  will 
be  made  on  adjacent  regions ;  if  not  practicable,  it  will 
then  be  made  in  those  regions,  however  distant,  which 


CEYLON    TO    CALCUTTA.  175 

offer  tlie  least  resistance.  The  British  conquests  in  India 
are  so  recent,  that  the  civil  government  can  hardly  yet 
be  said  to  be  consolidated.  AVithin  this  vast  territory 
there  are  three  great  presidencies — Madras,  Bengal,  and 
Bombay.  The  northern  and  eastern  portions  of  the  ter- 
ritory are  divided  into  provinces.  A  viceroy,  or  gov- 
ernor-general, appointed  by  the  Queen  of  Great  Britain 
for  four  years,  resides  in  Calcutta  and  administers  a  form 
of  federal  government,  while  each  presidency  and  j^rov- 
ince  has  its  own  local  administration. 

We  first  saw  the  city  of  Madras  from  the  sea,  and  it 
seemed  commanding  and  beautiful,  a  city  of  European 
aspect  stretching  some  three  or  four  miles  along  the 
border  of  the  sandy  shore,  upon  a  low  and  level  plain, 
and  containing  over  four  hundred  thousand  people.  We 
hasten  on  and  make  the  best  use  of  our  time,  by  visiting 
some  of  the  principal  shops  and  edifices.  We  find  the 
weather  excessively  hot,  and  one  day  is  quite  sufiacient 
for  all  that  is  to  be  seen.  Mr.  Fowler,  one  of  the  pas- 
sengers, who  joined  us  on  shipboard  at  San  Francisco, 
remained  over,  expecting  to  sail  for  Calcutta  by  the  fol- 
lowing ship  of  this  line.  At  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening 
the  ship's  anchor  was  vfeighed,  and  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney en  route  for  Calcutta. 

January  6fJ<. — Bay  of  Bengal.  Weather  fine,  wind 
light  from  the  north,  and  sea  smooth.  Thermometer  80°. 
Ship's  course  north  by  west;  latitude  15°  8'  north,  lon- 
gitude 82°  12'  east.  Distance  run,  \\j)  to  12  m.,  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty-seven  miles. 

January  ItJi. — Bay  of  Bengal.      Weather  fine,  sea 


176  .AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

smooth,  not  a  ripple  being  visible  on  its  surface.  Ther- 
mometer 81°.  Course  north  by  west;  latitude  18°  14' 
north,  longitude  85°  14'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m., 
two  hundred  and  fifty-four  miles. 

January  Sth. — Ba}^  of  Bengal.  The  weather  charm- 
ing, and  tlie  sea  is  like  glass.  In  the  mirror-like  waters 
occasionally  we  see  a  water-snake  swiming  playfully  over 
the  surface  near  the  shij:),  and  it  was  most  amusing  to 
hnar  some  of  the  more  timid  lady  passengers  order  the 
waiters  to  close  the  outside  2:>orts  of  their  staterooms, 
lest  a  snake  should  crawl  up  the  ship's  side  and  take 
possession  !  Thermometer  80°.  Course  west-northwest : 
latitude  21°  24'  north,  longitude  85°  8'  east.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  sixty-four  miles. 

We  met  quite  a  number  of  sailing-shi2:)s  on  their  pas- 
sage, going  both  into  and  out  of  Calcutta,  one  of  whose 
decks  was  literally  crowded  with  coolies,  destined  as  ^vas 
supposed  to  servitude  in  some  foreign  country.  This 
afternoon  at  two  o'clock  the  ship  came  to  anchor  in  the 
mouth  of  the  Hoogly  River,  abreast  of  Tiger  Island,  wait- 
ing for  the  flood-tide.  It  is  said  that  this  large  and 
lonely  island,  covered  with  brushwood,  abounds  with 
tigers  and  other  beasts  of  prey.  There  is  a  monument 
on  the  island  marking  the  spot  where  a  young  woman 
was  carried  ofl^  by  a  tiger.  A  vessel  from  America 
was  detained  by  the  tide,  as  often  happens  at  this  point, 
and  a  number  of  the  passengers  concluded  to  go  on  shore. 
While  they  were  strolling  in  the  thicket,  a  lady,  one  of 
the  party,  strayed  a  little  from  the  rest  of  the  company, 
when  presently  a  screaui  from  the  woman  was  heard  ; 


CEYLON   TO    CALCUTTA.  177 

ier  companions  ran  to  lier  assistance,  but  arrived  only 
in  time  to  see  lier  carried  off  by  a  tiger.  Some  of  our 
passengers  proposed  taking  tlie  sliip's  gig  and  going 
asliore  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  Tiger 
Island,  but  both  Captain  Burn  and  the  ship's  pilot  ad- 
vised us  not  to  venture,  for  fear  of  injury  from  the  wild 
animals  infesting  the  jungles. 

January  9fh. — Calcutta  is  situated  on  tbe  Hoogly 
Kiver,  about  one  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth ;  the 
Hoogly  is  one  of  the  principal  outlets  of  the  Ganges. 
This  morning  at  seven  o'clock  the  ship's  anchor  was 
raised,  and  we  resumed  our  course  for  Calcutta.  In  a  few 
minutes  after  getting  under  way,  our  skip  collided  with 
a  native  junk,  and  before  the  ship's  life-boat  could  be 
lowered  from  the  davits  the  little  craft  had  sunk  to  the 
bottom,  leaving  its  crew  of  fifteen  sailors  floating  upon 
the  surface  of  the  water.  Fortunately  they  were  all  res- 
cued from  a  watery  grave.  When  they  were  brought 
on  deck,  the  ship's  officers  ordered  rice  for  their  break- 
fast. In  consequence  of  the  detention  caused  by  this 
accident,  our  steamer  lost  the  flood-tide,  and  at  twelve 
o'clock  anchored,  where  we  had  to  remain  till  the  next 
morning  for  the  high  tide,  in  order  to  cross  the  bar, 

January  lOth. — This  morning  at  ten  o'clock  the  ship 
again  got  under  way.  Most  of  the  passengers  were 
anxious  to  get  to  Calcutta,  but  we  were  not  so  much 
limited  in  time,  and,  being  in  smooth  water,  with  de- 
lightful scenery  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  felt  that 
we  were  quite  as  well  off"  on  shipboard,  with  a  bountiful 
table,  as  we   probably  would   be  in    any  other   place. 


178  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

The  lower  parts  of  the  banks  of  the  Hoogly  River  are 
co^^ered  with  mid  jungles,  through  which  are  scattered, 
sometimes  in  groves,  the  cocoanut  and  other  palms,  the 
whole  landscape  assuming  a  strictly  Oi'iental  aspect. 
The  river  is  a  dangerous  one,  and  can  only  be  navigated 
]jy  daylight,  on  account  of  the  numerous  sand-banks, 
which  shift  during  every  heavy  freshet. 

As  we  approach  the  city  of  Calcutta,  the  signs  of 
cultivation  become  more  fi'equent.  For  several  miles 
the  river  on  either  side  is  lined  with  rich  plantations 
and  costly  residences,  mingled  -with  Oriental  shade-trees, 
and  surrounded  by  magnificent  vegetable  and  flower 
gardens. 

In  sight  of  Calcutta,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river, 
is  situated  the  palace  of  the  ex-King  of  Oude,  who  was 
dethroned  by  the  East  India  Company,  and  brought  to 
Calcutta  as  a  prisoner  of  state.  He  was  allowed  to 
retain  a  great  part  of  his  wealth.  The  buildings  are  very 
pretty,  extending  a  long  distance  upon  the  river-banks; 
here  stands  his  temple,  the  dome  of  which  is  covered 
with  burnished  gold,  dazzling  to  look  upon  in  the  bright 
sunlight.  We  were  detained  for  nearly  two  hours  oppo- 
site his  grounds,  partly  in  getting  the  ship  into  the  dock, 
and  partly  in  waiting  for  the  custom-house  ofiicials,  and 
had  abundance  of  time  to  examine  the  beauties  of  the 
place.  At  length  the  custom-house  officers  came  on 
board,  and  examined  the  passengers'  trunks.  We  did 
not  wait  for  the  ship  to  get  alongside  the  wharf,  but 
took  a  native  craft.  As  we  approached  the  shore,  w^e 
saw  gathered  together  crowds  of  people ;  all  nations  and 


CEYLON    TO    CALCUTTA.  179 

all  costumes  seemed  to  be  I'epresented,  and  by  the  time 
our  boat  reached  the  landing  scores  of  them  made  a  rush 
for  our  baggage,  and  it  was  necessary  for  us  to  shout, 
and  fight  our  way  through  the  crowd  the  best  we  could 
to  prevent  it  from  being  carried  off.  Before  leaving  the 
ship  we  made  a  bargain,  in  plain  English,  as  to  what  the 
price  should  be  to  carry  us  on  shore,  and  our  trunks  up 
the  bank,  about  fifty  feet  distant,  to  the  gharries,  or  car- 
riages, for  which  the  carriers  demanded  additional  pay. 
I  refused  in  the  most  emphatic  manner  to  pay  any  more 
than  the  sum  agreed  upon,  and,  if  they  would  carry  the 
trunks  uj)  the  bank  and  j)lace  them  on  the  gJiarry,  I 
should  pay  them,  but  not  before.  After  all  had  been 
done,  more  than  a  dozen  gathered  around,  'each  one  de- 
manding enough  for  all,  whether  he  liad  touched  our 
baggage  or  not.  At  length  I  settled  with  the  man  with 
whom  I  had  made  the  bargain,  by  handing  him  wliat  I 
thofight  right,  and  told  the  noisy  crowd  to  look  to  him 
for  their  dues. 

We  were  driven  to  the  Great  Eastern  Hotel,  where 
we  arrived  at  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  and  were  fur- 
nished with  good  rooms  for  six  rupees  per  day  for  each 
person.  In  addition  to  the  two  rooms  which  we  occu- 
pied, we  had  a  bath-room,  which  is  desirable  in  a  hot 
climate. 

The  Great  Eastern  is  run  by  a  company,  and  is  the 
largest  hotel  in  Calcutta.  The  table  was  supplied  with 
the  most  delicious  fruits,  and  all  the  necessaries  of  life 
in  abundance.  The  servants  were  so  numerous  that  they 
were  often  in  each  other's  way.    With  their  dusky  forms, 


180  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

clothed  in  white  from  head  to  foot,  movino;  about  with- 
out  shoes,  and  uttering  not  a  word,  they  seemed  like  so 
many  lost  spirits.  When  waiting  on  us  at  table,  they 
wore  white-muslin  hats,  with  immense  brims  covered 
with  the  same  material ;  when  we  retired  at  night  we 
signified  to  them,  as  plainly  as  we  could,  that  their 
duties  for  the  day  were  over,  and  tliat  we  no  longer  re- 
quired their  services.  Closing  tLe  door,  we  fancied  that 
we  bad  seen  the  last  of  them  for  the  night ;  but  scarcely 
bad  we  turned  round  when  the  same  dark  gbosts  in 
white  stood  before  us,  and  when  I  awoke  in  the  morn- 
ing, on  opening  tbe  door,  the  same  forms  were  lying  on 
the  floor,  awaiting  orders  for  tbe  day. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

CALCUTTA. 

January  11th. —  The  city  of  Calcutta  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  tlie  banks  of  tLe  Hoogly  Eiver,  about  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  ocean.  It  contains  some  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  conceded 
to  be  the  finest  city  in  the  East.  Some  of  the  largest  and 
finest  sailing-ships  in  the  world  enter  her  port,  and  her 
commerce  is  with  all  the  earth.  Calcutta  may  be  called 
the  European  capital  of  Asia,  for  it  has  been  the  seat  of 
the  British  Empire  in  the  East  for  more  than  a  century, 
and  the  impress  of  British  energy  and  influence  is  seen 
and  felt  on  every  hand. 

By  many  Calcutta  is  regarded  as  a  city  of  palaces. 
Here  are  the  residences  of  the  merchants,  and  those  con- 
nected with  the  civil  and  military  service,  whose  dwell- 
ings may  in  truth  be  called  palaces,  standing  as  they  do 
in  the  midst  of  squares,  surrounded  by  a  profusion  of 
trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers.  Some  of  the  dwellings  are 
massive,  but  not  architecturally  beautiful.  The  acacia, 
mango,  bamboo,  and  the  stately  palm — the  glory  of  the 
tropics — are  seen  in  the  gardens ;  but  that  part  of  Cal- 
cutta occupied  by  the  natives  presents  a  dingy  and  dirty 
appearance,  and  it  would  be  a  most  difficult  matter  to 
keep  it  otherwise,  for  the  streets  are  narrow  and  literally 


182  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

filled  with  people.  In  that  part  occupied  by  Europeans, 
however,  the  streets  are  beautifully  macadamized  and 
bordered  with  shade-trees.  A  large  number  of  coolies 
are  employed  in  watering  the  streets,  each  waterman 
having,  instead  of  a  cart,  a  goatskin  shaped  like  an  im- 
mense bottle  left  open  at  the  neck,  and  suspended  by  a 
strap  over  the  shoulders  of  the  coolie,  who,  seizing  the 
neck  with  one  hand,  throws  the  water  hither  and  thither, 
transformino;  the  dust  into  mud. 

The  city  of  Calcutta  has  undergone  many  vicissitudes, 
and  witnessed  many  exciting  and  bloody  events.  Dur- 
ing the  conflict  of  1756,  between  the  Hindoos  and  the 
English,  when  Fort  William  was  taken  by  Surajah 
Dowlah,  Nabob  of  Bengal,  a  feeble  garrison  being  left 
to  defend  the  fort  after  the  Governor  and  others  had 
escaped  to  the  shijDS,  the  prisoners,  one  hundred  and 
forty-six  in  number,  were  imprisoned  in  a  room  only 
eighteen  feet  square,  with  two  small  windows  (what  is 
now  known  the  world  over  as  the  Black  Hole  of  Cal- 
cutta). On  the  18th  of  June,  during  a  sultry  night,  they 
were  shut  up  without  water  or  food,  or  any  means  of 
relief.  Mr.  Holwell,  an  English  officer,  and  one  of  the 
unfortunate  inmates,  has  described  in  detail  the  horrors 
of  that  fatal  night,  which  are  scarcely  paralleled  in  the 
annals  of  human  misery.  Every  moment  added  to  their 
distress,  but  all  attempts  to  obtain  relief  were  in  vain. 
Messengers  were  sent  to  the  nabob  to  inform  him  of 
the  terrible  sufterings  of  the  prisoners,  and  the  answer 
came  back  that  he  was  asleep  and  his  attendants  dared 
not  wake  him,  fearing  that,  if  disturbed,  he  might  treat 


CALCUTTA.  133 

his  captives  with  still  greater  inhumanity.  The  air  of 
the  prison  soon  became  pestilential,  producing  at  every 
respii'ation  of  the  poor  wretches  a  feeling  of  suffocation ; 
the  perspiration  flowed  in  streams,  and  they  were  tor- 
mented with  the  most  burning  thirst.  As  the  sufferers 
grew  weaker,  they  began  to  be  squeezed  or  trampled  to 
death.  Loud  shouts  were  raised  for  water,  and  when 
the  Hindoo  soldiers  without  heard  their  cries,  they 
brouo-ht  lio'hts  to  witness  their  sufferinsrs  and  mock  at 
them.  At  about  eleven  o'clock  the  prisoners  began  to 
die  fast;  six  of  Howell's  intimate  friends  expired  at  his 
feet,  and  were  trampled  upon  by  the  survivors.  A  great 
proportion  were  raving  or  delirious ;  some  uttered  inco- 
herent prayers,  others  the  most  frightful  blasphemies. 
They  endeavored  by  their  cries  to  induce  the  guards  to 
fire  the  prison,  and  put  an  end  to  their  sufferings,  but 
without  effect.  When  day  dawned  upon  that  fatal  night, 
the  few  2^risoners  who  had  not  died  were  either  raving 
mad  or  insensible.  At  six  in  the  morning  the  nabob 
made  his  apj^earance,  and,  on  his  learning  the  events  of 
the  night,  he  gave  orders  to  unbar  the  fatal  door,  and 
out  of  the  one  hundred  and  forty-six  captives  only 
twentj^-three  ghastly  forms  had  just  life  enough  left  to 
crawl  from  the  dark  hole  when  the  door  was  opened  ; 
the  remaining  one  hundred  and  twenty-three  lay  piled 
upon  the  floor,  a  heap  of  putrid  corj^ses.  No  scene  con- 
nected with  Calcutta  is  more  indelibly  graven  on  the 
memory  of  the  world  than  this. 

After  Mr.  Howell  had  been  revived  by  the  fresh  air, 
the  nabob  ordered  for  him  a  seat  and  a  cup  of  water,  but 


184  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

sliowed  no  otlier  mark  of  sympathy,  and  immediately 
commenced  a  strict  inquiry  about  the  supposed  treasure 
hid  in  some  part  of  the  fort  which  had  been  taken  on 
the  previous  day.  Mr.  Howell  tried  to  explain  to  him 
that  he  had  no  knowledge  of  the  money,  but  rather  sup- 
posed the  Governor  had  taken  the  treasure  on  board  the 
ships,  which  had  a  tendency  to  reconcile  the  nabob,  so 
he  sent  Mr.  Howell,  with  the  other  surviving  prisoners, 
to  Moorshedabad.  During  the  voyage  they  suffered 
severely,  their  bodies  being  covered  with  boils  that  had 
broken  out  in  consequence  of  their  confinement.  The 
dead  bodies  of  the  prisoners,  without  any  ceremony, 
were  thrown  into  a  ditch. 

All  the  English  force,  both  naval  and  military,  which 
could  possibly  be  spared,  under  the  command  of  Admiral 
Watson,  was  dispatched  with  the  greatest  haste  to  Cal- 
cutta. The  ships  arrived  in  the  middle  of  December, 
and  anchored  some  fifteen  miles  below  the  city.  Letters 
for  the  nabob  were  forthwith  sent  to  Calcutta,  but, 
receiving  no  reply,  the  English  determined  without 
delay  to  commence  hostilities.  The  admiral  immedi- 
ately moved  the  ships  up  the  river,  in  front  of  Fort 
Mayapore,  which  he  proposed  to  attack  on  the  follow- 
ing day.  Little  resistance  being  apprehended,  Colonel 
Clive,' about  midnight,  landed  with  a  large  force  of 
men,  with  a  view  to  cut  off  the  retreat  of  the  garrison 
of  the  fort  to  Calcutta;  he  accordingly  stationed  his 
troops  in  a  low,  hollow  space,  surrounded  by  brush- 
wood, thinking  that  he  was  perfectly  secure.  The  men 
being  extremely  fatigued,  they  fell  asleep  without  even 


CALCUTTA.  .  185 

placing  a  sentinel.  The  enemy  informed  the  nabob  of 
their  position,  who  sent  a  large  detachment  which  made 
an  unexpected  attack  in  the  night.  The  English  suf- 
fered terribly  before  they  could  form  theii*  ranks ;  their 
two  field-pieces  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  enemy,  who 
fortunately  knew  not  how  to  use  them,  and  they  were 
afterward  recovered.  Colonel  Clive  resolved  not  to 
retreat,  lest  his  troops  should  be  struck  with  panic ;  and 
when  they  were  at  length  lallied,  and  formed  in  order 
of  battle,  they  quickly  dispersed  the  band  of  assailants. 

The  nabob  was  so  much  discouraged  by  this  move- 
ment that  he  left  Calcutta,  leaving  it  garrisoned  by  only 
five  hundred  men,  who  surrendered  almost  so  soon  as 
Admiral  Watson  had  opened  his  batteries.  The  mer- 
chandise which  had  been  left,  belonging  to  the  English, 
was  found,  it  havino-  been  reserved  for  the  use  of  the 
nabob. 

On  our  way  up  the  Hoogly  River,  some  fifteen  miles 
below  Calcutta,  we  passed  Serampore,  which  is  beauti- 
fully situated.  Every  one  who  is  at  all  familiar  with 
the  history  of  missions  in  the  East  knows  how  inti- 
mately this  place  is  associated  with  the  names  of  the 
earliest  and  some  of  the  best  men  that  have  gone  out  to 
preach  the  gospel  in  Asiatic  countries.  In  the  beginning 
of  the  present  century  it  was  the  cave  in  which  the 
missionaries  were  concealed  when  they  were  forbidden 
to  preach  in  British  India  (it  then  being  a  Danish  pos- 
session, and  not  under  the  control  of  the  English) ;  and 
this  is  the  spot  where  Carey  and  Ward  confined  them- 
selves, to  study  the  languages  of  the  country.     Here  they 

13 


186  •  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

planted  their  jorinting-presses,  and  sent  forth  millions 
of  pages  of  Christian  truth  into  nearly  all  parts  of  Asia 
and  the  islands  of  the  sea.  Here,  too,  Judson,  several 
years  later,  found  a  temporary  refuge,  when  he  was  for- 
bidden to  land  at  Calcutta,  as  if  he  and  his  coadjutors 
from  America  had  been  guilty  of  conspiring  against  the 
peace  of  the  country. 

Carey  was  born  of  poor  parentage,  in  a  small  town 
in  England,  and  aj^prenticed  at  the  age  of  fourteen  to 
the  business  of  shoemaking,  which  trade  he  seems  never 
to  have  mastered. "  It  is  said  that  in  after-years,  when 
dining  at  the  governor-general's  in  India,  he  overheard 
some  Englishman  speak  of  him  as  a  shoemaker,  where- 
upon he  turned  around  and  corrected  him,  saying  that 
he  was  only  a  cobbler !  On  his  death-bed,  both  the 
wife  of  the  Governor-General  of  India  and  the  Bishop  of 
Calcutta  came  to  ask  his  dying  blessing.  While  learn- 
ing his  trade  in  England  he  improved  himself  by  read- 
ing, and  at  length  turned  his  attention  to  the  study 
of  languages  and  the  Bible;  he  was  licensed  by  the 
Baptists  to  preach  the  gospel.  On  his  arrival  in  India 
he  was  obliged  to  conceal  himself  from  the  knowledge 
of  the  East  India  Company,  whose  policy  was  opposed 
to  efforts  for  the  conversion  of  the  natives.  For  several 
years  he  labored  in  great  seclusion,  supporting  himself 
by  working  on  an  indigo-plantation.  In  the  year  1800 
he  was  joined  by  Marshman  and  Ward  from  England, 
when  they  established  themselves  under  Danish  protec- 
tion at  Serampore.  They  applied  themselves  to  learning 
the  languages,  and  began  the  translation  of  the  Bible 


CALCUTTA.  137 

into  the  numerous  tongues  of  the  East.  They  also  laid 
the  foundation  of  a  college  of  high  order,  and  erected 
for  it  a  building  which  even  now  is  regarded  as  one  of 
the  finest  structures  of  its  kind  in  India ;  they  likewise 
formed  a  fine  library,  now  filled  with  the  choicest  works 
of  the  East. 

It  is  wonderful  that  a  few  poor  missionaries  could 
do  such  a  work,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  expense  of 
these  enterprises  they  bore  themselves.  Dr.  Carey  at 
length,  for  his  services  as  professor  in  the  College  of 
Fort  William  at  Calcutta,  received  a  thousand  rupees 
a  month,  nearly  equal  to  six  thousand  dollars  per  year ; 
Mr.  Ward  received  as  much  more  in  the  printing-office ; 
and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Marshman  about  the  same  for  teach- 
ing; and  yet,  while  they  were  receiving  these  large  sums 
for  their  services,  they  drew  from  the  fund  only  twelve 
rupees  each,  or  six  dollars  a  month.  The  remainder  was 
devoted,  by  mutual  consent,  to  the  purposes  of  the 
mission  and  for  spreading  the  gospel.  The  cost  of  one 
version  alone,  which  they  prepared  and  printed,  was  one 
hundred  thousand  dollars.  The  words  of  the  agreement 
which  they  signed  when  they  entered  on  their  work 
were :  "  Let  us  give  ourselves  up  unreservedly  to  the 
€ause  in  which  we  are  engaged ;  let  us  never  think  that 
our  time,  our  gifts,  our  strength,  our  families,  or  even 
the  clothes  we  wear,  are  our  own ;  let  us  sanctify  them 
all  to  God  and  his  glorious  cause."  They  were  all 
earnest  in  the  work,  and  they  lived  not  unto  themselves, 
but  as  wise  stewards  laid  their  treasures  where  neither 
moth  nor  rust  doth  corrupt,  and  where  thieves  do  not 


188  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

break  through  nor  steal;  and  they  have  passed   away 
to  enjoy  their  rich  reward. 

The  Zenana  Mission  was  undertaken  a  few  years  ago 
by  the  Woman's  Union  Missionary  Society  of  America 
for  Heathen  Lands,  whose  headquarters  in  India  are  at 
Calcutta,  under  the  superintendence  of  Miss  Hook  a 
lady  of  rare  culture  and  refinement.  The  ladies  of  the 
mission  go  out  daily  among  the  zenanas,  and  by  many 
are  cordially  received.  Great  numbers  of  the  wealthy 
natives  express  an  earnest  desire  to  be  instructed. 

The  Bishop's  College  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Hoogly,  some  two  or  three  miles  below 
Calcutta,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  botanic  garden  or  park. 
It  was  founded  in  the  year  1820  for  the  purpose  of  train- 
ing up,  under  the  discipline  of  the  Church  of  England, 
young  men  for  preachers  and  teachers  to  be  employed 
by  the  Church  in  scattering  the  seeds  of  the  gospel  over 
India.  The  arrangements  in  this  institution  are  very 
extensive. 

The  Asiatic  Society,  located  in  Calcutta,  was  estab- 
lished by  the  eminent  scholar  and  Christian,  Sir  William 
Jones,  who  went  out  to  India  in  1783.  Having  been 
appointed  to  the  bench  of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Bengal, 
he  devoted  himself  to  the  study  of  the  languages  of  the 
East,  as  the  best  means  of  fitting  himself  for  usefulness 
in  India.  He  is  said  to  have  acquired  in  the  course 
of  his  life  twenty-eight  different  languages,  and  to  have 
become  familiar  with  the  literature  of  each.  This  Asiatic 
Society  was  formed  for  the  purpose  of  preserving  the 
history  and   the  memorials   of  India.     It   contains   an 


CALCUTTA.  189 

immense  collection  of  volumes  and  antique  manuscripts, 
and  relics  of  many  kinds.  The  large  building  in  whicL. 
they  were  kept  was;  long  since  filled,  so  that  it  was 
found  necessary  to  construct  additional  buildings  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  institution. 

The  Government  House,  built  during  the  adminis- 
tration of  the  Marquis  of  Wellesley,  has  dimensions 
perhaps  one-fourth  less  than  the  Capitol  at  Washing- 
ton. Its  walls  are  brick,  covered  with  stucco  in  the 
Indian  style,  an  excellent  imitation  of  white  marble. 
It  is  inclosed  with  gardens,  filled  with  a  profusion  of 
Oriental  shrubs  and  shade-trees ;  but  the  noble  arched 
gateway  is  ornamented  with  no  such  modern  and  re- 
publican symbol  as  the  bird  of  freedom,  with  arrows 
and  the  olive-branch  in  its  claws,  nor  does  the  tower 
or  turret  show  any  stars  or  stripes,  or  any  modern  tri- 
colored  ensign.  Instead  of  all  these,  there  are  a  lion 
and  unicorn  stationed  over  the  gateway,  being  more  of 
a  representation  of  fighting  for  the  crown  than  of  liberty. 
The  stately  cross  of  St.  George  is  displayed  from  the 
palace-walls ;  marquees  and  tents  cover  the  plain,  sur- 
mounted with  the  same  flag,  and  ofiicers,  soldiers,  and 
servants,  are  all  clothed  in  gorgeous  scarlet  and  gold 
uniforms,  tokens  of  British  royal  authority.  The  walls 
are  covered  with  British  portraits — the  most  prominent 
among  them  being  those  of  George  HI.,  and  Charlotte, 
his  faithful  queen  ;  the  Earl  of  Chatham,  General  Wolfe, 
Lord  North,  Lord  Cornwallis,  Lord  Clive,  and  others  too 
numerous  to  mention.  The  person,  stranger  or  other- 
v/ise,  who  desires  or  claims  notice  at  the  vice-regal  court, 


190  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

instead  of  presenting  letters  or  leaving  cards,  registers 
his  name  in  the  adjacent  court.  If  recognized,  he  is 
honored  with  an  audience ;  if  not,  nothing  is  said.  It 
is  stated  that  when  the  dinner-hour  arrives,  and  the 
invited  guests  are  assembled  in  the  throne-room,  stand- 
ing,  the  viceroy  and  the  Countess  of  Mayo  enter,  each 
attended  by  an  aide-de-camp,  and  they  salute  their  guests 
individually.  The  band  plays  during  the  dinner,  which 
usually  takes  about  two  hours. 


CHAPTEK   XVIL 

CALCUTTA     AND     ITS     SIGHTS. 

January  12 fh. — Kali  Ghaut  is  the  most  famous  of 
the  Hindoo  temples  in  Calcutta.  It  has  three  discon- 
nected structures;  the  floors  of  all  are  on  one  level, 
about  eight  feet  above  the  ground,  and  are  reached  by 
flights  of  stone  steps.  The  iDuilding  on  the  right  hand 
is  circular,  open  all  arouud,  ^vith  roof  sujDported  by 
'Hindoo  columns;  the  central  building  is  oblong;  the 
third  and  principal  edifice  is  square,  and  surmounted 
by  a  dome,  which  extends  beyond  the  walls,  and  is  sup- 
ported by  outside  colmnns  and  no  windows;  light  is 
admitted  through  small  niches.  The  building  first  de- 
scribed is  the  hall  of  sacrifice,  into  which  only  Brahman 
priests  are  admitted.  The  building  last  mentioned  con- 
tains the  shrine  of  the  goddess  Kali,  to  whose  service 
the  Thugs  especially  devoted  themselves.  Not  even 
its  threshold  is  allowed  to  be  profaned  by  the  foot- 
steps of  the  vulgar.  The  central  edifice  is  the  wor- 
shipers', in  which  they  pay  their  adoration.  Bullocks 
and  goats  are  sacrificed,  and  there  are  connected  wdth 
this  one  temple  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  priests. 

January  I3th. — To-day  Ave  ride  out  some  four  or  five 
miles  into  the  country,  to  the  palace  known  as  the 
Seven  Tanks.     This  edifice  is   a  large  building  within 


192  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

tbe  inclosure  of  extensive  gardens,  ornamented  with  a 
large  variety  of  flowers,  slirubs,  and  shade-trees,  and 
having  fish-ponds,  carriage-roads,  and  winding  pathways. 
The  lord  of  the  palace  was  not  at  home,  but,  by  giving 
the  waiters  in  charge  a  small  fee,  we  were  permitted  to 
enter.  The  walls  were  covered  with  life-size  pictures  of 
the  members  of  the  family  for  several  generations  back, 
and  the  tables  were  covered  with  relics  of  antiquity. 
In  the  garden  or  park  we  saw  cages  filled  with  wild 
animals.  The  huge  boa-constrictors,  sleeping  in  their 
apartments,  were  captured  in  the  north  of  India.  The 
ostrich,  the  bird-of-paradise,  the  pelican,  the  eagle,  and 
the  swan,  are  as  domesticated  as  if  they  had  known  no 
other  home.  The  fish-pond  is  quite  deep;  its  inhabi- 
tants came  to  the  surface  and  fed  from  our  hands.  Here 
we  saw  an  immense  green  tortoise  which  weighs  nearly 
two  hundred  pounds,  cajDable  of  carrying  a  man  on  his 
back.  Tbe  cages  contained  a  variety  of  wild  animals, 
the  ferocious  black  bear,  the  tiger,  and  the  lion,  among 
the  most  prominent. 

January  \Mli. — To-day  we  take  a  ride  to  the  Eoyal 
Botanical  Garden,  situated  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river  from  Calcutta.  The  grounds  cover  two  hundred 
and  seventy-two  acres,  and  have  a  river-frontage  on  the 
Hoogly  of  over  a  mile.  The  roads  are  beautifully  laid 
out,  and  the  whole  of  the  grounds  may  be  gone  over 
without  leaving  a  carriage.  To  the  left  we  passed  by 
a  mahogany-grove,  and  a  variety  of  palms  and  other 
shade-trees.  We  at  length  come  to  the  great  banyan- 
tree,  the  pride   of  India.     This  wonderful  tree  is  said 


CALCUTTA    AND    ITS   SIGHTS.  I93 

to  be  several  hundred  years  old,  and  the  largest  of  its 
kind  in  the  country,  covering  a  sj^ace  of  ground  eight 
hundred  feet  in  circumference  ;  it  measures  around  its 
trunk  fifty-one  feet,  and  one  hundred  and  seventy  of  its 
branches  descend  to  the  ground  and  have  taken  root, 
presenting  one  of  the  most  novel  sights  ever  witnessed, 
and  people  come  from  all  j^arts  to  see  it. 

During  the  afternoon  we  ride  out  to  Fort  William, 
which  is  very  handsomely  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Hoogly  River.  The  fort  is  in  the  form  of  an  irregular 
octagon,  with  five  sides  toward  the  land  and  three  tow- 
ard  the  river ;  it  is  surrounded  by  a  dry  moat  or  ditch, 
which  can  be  filled  in  a  short  space  of  time  with  water 
by  a  sluice  from  the  river.  The  fort  is  situated  on  a 
plain,  on  gently-rising  ground,  and  contains  six  hundred 
mounted  guns.  It  is  caj^able  of  accommodating  fifty 
thousand  men,  and  is  the  largest  fortification  in  India. 

On  our  return  to  the  city  we  stopped  at  the  Garden 
of  Eden.  The  name,  however,  is  not  a  synonym  for 
paradise,  as  might  be  supj^osed,  but  was  bestowed  in 
compliment  to  Miss  Eden,  the  sister  of  Earl  Godolphin, 
a  former  Governor-General  of  India.  Brilliant  gas-lights 
sparkled  through  the  dark  foliage  of  mango,  palm,  and 
cypress  trees,  with  music  from  a  central  stand.  It  was  a 
gay  scene  to  look  upon,  and  we  promenaded  on  the  green 
lawns  for  an  hour,  listening  to  the  music  and  surrounded 
by  groups  of  gentlemen,  ladies,  and  children ;  army  of- 
ficers in  full  dresSy  stately  baboos  in  white  cambric,  dusky 
Sepoy  guards  in  white-and-red  uniforms,  rajahs  in  jew- 
eled turbans  and  gold-embroidered  robes,  and  Moham- 


194  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

medans  in  the  background  on  their  knees — the  latter 
with  their  faces  toward  Mecca,  repeating  their  prayers. 

That  portion  of  the  city  between  the  Garden  of  Eden 
and  Fort  William  is  one  continual  park,  forming  the 
great  fashionable  drive  of  Calcutta.  Every  evening  just 
before  sunset,  when  the  heat  of  the  day  has  passed,  the 
whole  town  turns  out  for  an  hour's  drive  up  and  down 
the  strand,  which  is  one  of  the  gayest  and  most  beautiful 
sights  to  be  seen  in  the  suburbs  of  any  city,  and  one  of 
the  most  peculiar ;  in  no  part  of  the  world  is  there  any- 
thing to  equal  it.  The  Euroj^eans,  with  their  gay  equi- 
pages, from  the  viceroy's  scarlet  and  gold  down  to  the 
unpretending  gJiarry,  move  on  in  a  steady  line,  some- 
times three,  four,  or  five  abreast,  until  night  comes  on. 
The  occupants  of  the  carriages  are  mostly  Europeans, 
but  the  entire  scene  is  decidedly  Oriental ;  some  of  the 
coachmen  and  footmen  are  fine  specimens  of  the  various 
tribes  of  India,  all  in  native  costume,  the  colors  and  style 
of  which  are  as  varied  as  the  laces  of  Hindostan,  all  of 
whom  seem  to  be  in  high  glee. 

We  also  visited  the  place  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
where  the  Hindoos  burn  the  dead,  which  is  one  of  the 
most  loathsome  sights  that  I  have  ever  witnessed.  On 
our  arrival  a  dead  human  body  had  just  been  placed  on 
the  funeral-pile ;  in  a  short  time  the  hot  flames  consumed 
the  body,  and  the  ashes  were  collected  by  the  priest  and 
thrown  into  the  river.  While  the  fire  was  doing  its 
work,  the  mourners  and  friends  of  the  deceased  sat  flat 
upon  the  ground  witnessing  the  fearful  scene,  which  to 
them  is  as  sacred  as  the  religion  they  profess.     Every 


CALCUTTA    AND    ITS    SIGHTS.  195 

day  a  number  of  dead  bodies  are  disposed  of  in  tliis 
manner. 

We  called  at  the  office  of  A.  C.  Litchfield,  consul- 
general  for  the  United  States,  by  whom  we  were  re- 
ceived with  marked  attention,  and  who  invited  us  to 
make  a  visit  at  his  residence. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

GOVERlS^MElSrT    AND    CASTE    IN    INDIA. 

In  the  sacred  volume  which  contains  the  earliest  of 
our  historical  records,  no  statement  is  made  whence  we 
might  conclude  that  the  Jews,  the  first  inhabitants  of 
the  world,  had  arrived  at  any  knowledge  of  India.  The 
river  Euphrates,  and  the  territory  immediately  beyond 
it,  appeared  to  them  the  most  remote  objects  to  the  east- 
ward, and  are  described  as  the  end  of  the  earth.  Nothing 
satisfectory  is  known  either  of  the  region  or  the  people 
before  Alexander  the  Great  entered  the  country  with 
his  army,  which  was  a  little  more  than  three  hundred 
years  before  the  Christian  era. 

At  that  early  age  of  the  world's  history,  Alexander, 
having  formed  a  resolution  to  explore  the  East,  em- 
ployed the  Phoenicians,  and  other  maritime  people  be- 
longing to  his  army,  to  construct  a  fleet  of  more  than 
two  thousand  vessels,  in  which  he  put  part  of  his  army, 
and  encamped  on  the  shore  with  the  remainder  until  all 
were  in  readiness  for  dejjarture.  At  length  this  great 
armament  began  its  movement  down  the  river ;  the  noise 
and  shouting  of  the  troops,  and  the  brandishing  of  so 
many  oars,  as  the  flotilla  dropped  down  the  stream, 
struck  with  admiration  the  many  spectators  who  lined 
the  shore,  and  who  were   eagerly  watching  their  prog- 


GOVERNMENT   AND    CASTE   IN   INDIA.  197 

ress.  Some  time  was  spent  on  their  voyage,  and  in  at- 
tacking certain  strong  places,  by  whicli  Alexander  rasbly 
sacrificed  many  of  his  troops,  and  even  endangered  his 
own  life,  for  the  pleasure  of  making  conquests  wbich  he 
had  not  the  power  to  retain.  After  a  voyage  of  nine 
months,  as  it  is  stated,  down  the  river,  he  landed  at 
Pattala.  On  his  approach  the  inhabitants  fled,  and  al- 
lowed him  to  take  possession  of  theii*  capital  without 
resistance.  As  they  went  farther  down  the  river,  the 
stream  divided  into  two  spacious  channels,  in  entering 
one  of  which  they  were  much  alarmed  when  the  water 
suddenly  receded  and  left  a  large  part  of  their  ships  on 
dry  land ;  but,  the  next  day,  the  channel  again  filled 
with  water  and  the  vessels  floated  off  without  receiving 
any  damage,  which  alternation  was  occasioned  by  the 
tide,  of  which  they  had  no  knowledge.  In  a  few  months 
after,  Alexander  crossed  the  Persian  Gulf,  where  he  found 
a  friendly  people  and  a  fertile  country,  in  which  all  the 
wants  of  the  fleet  were  supplied,  and,  in  the  following 
year,  that  part  of  the  fleet  which  had  not  been  lost  along 
the  rocky  coast  arrived  in  India,  and  penetrated  the 
country  as  far  as  the  Ganges. 

The  discovery  of  the  passage  to  India  around  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  was  made  six  years  after  the  discovery  of 
America  by  Columbus,  and  opened  the  whole  of  India 
to  the  commerce  of  Europe.  In  the  year  1600  a  com- 
mercial company  was  chartered  in  England,  under  the 
name  of  the  East  India  Company,  with  almost  unlimited 
privileges  and  power,  which  continued  to  increase  and 
extend  its  limits  until  it  had  brought  the  greater  part 


198  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

of  India  under  its  sway ;  but  at  length,  in  1858,  the  year 
after  the  great  Sepoy  mutiny,  the  company  was  com- 
pelled by  the  Government  of  Great  Britain  to  relinquish 
all  its  possessions  in  India. 

The  Hindoos  claim  for  their  country  and  nation  an 
antiquity  of  four  or  five  million  years,  and  that  things 
have  been  going  on  much  after  the  same  fashion  from 
the  beginning;  that  in  the  early  days  of  their  race 
men  grew  to  the  height  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet, 
and  lived  a  thousand  or  more  years. 

The  empire  of  India,  as  previously  mentioned,  in- 
cludes a  number  of  provinces  and  presidencies,  such  as 
Bengal,  Bombay,  Madras,  etc.,  extending  over  a  territory 
of  a  million  and  a  half  square  miles,  and  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  two  hundred  million  people;  it  is  now  admin- 
istered by  a  governor-general  or  viceroy,  who  has  under 
him,  in  the  several  provinces,  governors,  lieutenant-gov- 
ernors, and  commissioners.  All  the  great  native  rulers 
were  dethroned,  and  their  territory  taken,  in  the  con- 
quests made  by  British  arms. 

For  a  period  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  India 
was  ruled  for  the  benefit  of  the  East  India  Company. 
This  was  a  commercial  enterprise,  undertaken  for  the 
purpose  of  making  money,  and  gold  and  precious  stones 
were  the  objects  sought,  while  the  welfare  of  the  people 
was  among  the  last  matters  to  be  considered ;  even  the 
claims  of  religion,  humanity,  and  justice,  were  too  often 
treated  with  neglect.  But  things  have  taken  a  wonder- 
ful change  since  that  great  monopoly  has  been  abolished. 
India  is  now  ruled,  not  for  the  sake  of  extorting  money 


GOVERNMENT   AND    CASTE   IN   INDIA.  199 

from  a  subjugated  race,  but  for  the  welfare  of  the  people ; 
and  instead  of  the  cause  of  religion  being  retarded  as 
hitherto,  it  is  now  encouraged  and  propagated  in  every 
possible  way  by  all  good  English  subjects. 

The  aspect  of  the  country,  in  its  material,  educa- 
tional, social,  and  religious  interests,  is  at  present  full  of 
promise.  There  are  yet  reforms  to  be  worked  out  which 
will  require  time  for  their  consummation;  but,  judging 
from  the  movements  now  inaugurated,  India  bids  fair  to 
become  a  mighty  empire  in  the  East.  The  viceroyalty 
is  the  highest  office  in  the  gift  of  the  British  crown,  and, 
considering  the  extent  of  its  sway,  and  the  population 
over  which  it  is  exercised,  it  is  the  most  important  dele- 
gated office  in  the  world.  The  power  is  not  so  absolute 
as  was  that  of  the  governors-general  in  the  palmy  days 
of  the  East  India  Company,  but  the  present  viceroy  is 
directly  responsible  to  the  home  Government.  He  is 
paid  a  salary  of  twenty-five  thousand  pounds — equal  to 
one  hundred'and  twenty-five  thousand  dollars — annually, 
and  is  allowed  nearly  as  much  more  for  incidental  ex- 
penses. He  has,  as  before  remarked,  an  extensive  palace 
in  Calcutta,  where  he  resides  during  the  winter,  and  an- 
other in  the  Himalaya  Mountains,  where  he  spends  the 
summer. 

All  official  salaries  in  India  are  generally  large ;  and 
the  immense  army  of  office-holders  employed  in  all  the 
departments  of  government — the  revenues  for  their  pay- 
ment being  drawn  directly  from  the  country  itself — 
makes  it  of  vast  importance  to  Great  Britain,  for  it  is  a 
source  from  which  a  large  number  of  the  higher  and 


200  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

middle  classes  obtcain  tlieir  support.  Some  officials,  who 
receive  the  highest  salaries,  have  the  promise  of  pensions 
after  their  terms  of  service  expire.  Nearly  every  ship 
returning  to  England  carries  home  servants  of  the  Gov- 
ernment, and  as  many  more  are  constantly  coming  out. 
At  the  end  of  seven  years,  as  a  rule,  officers,  both  high 
and  low,  have  a  furlough  of  one  year  on  full  pay,  with 
the  expenses  of  tlieir  voyage  homeward  paid;  this  rule 
not  only  includes  the  army,  but  also  the  banks  and  other 
corporations. 

There  is  associated  with  the  viceroy  an  Executive 
Council,  whose  members  may  be  regarded  as  secretaries 
or  ministers  in  charsre  of  the  bureaus  of  Foreio-n  Affairs, 
Finance,  War,  Judiciary,  Post-Office,  Board  of  Public 
Works  and  Education.  This  Executive  Council,  like  a 
cabinet  council  elsewhere,  waits  on  the  viceroy  daily  or 
weekly  as  he  requires.  Its  members  are  residents  in 
India,  and  they  are  appointed  by  the  viceroy  with  the  con- 
sent of  the  crown.  With  the  consent  of  the  Executive 
Council  the  viceroy  appoints  all  magisterial  and  minis- 
terial officers.  All  this  confers  upon  the  viceroy  almost 
absolute  power  over  the  government  of  India.  There  is 
also  a  Legislative  Council,  which  consists  of  the  same  ex- 
ecutive councilors,  with  the  addition  of  a  few  residents  of 
India  selected  by  the  viceroy,  with  the  approval  of  the 
crown,  to  represent  the  general  interests  of  the  country. 
In  each  of  these  councils  the  viceroy  presides.  He  can 
veto  any  measure  passed,  but  not  without  rendering  his 
reasons  to  the  crown.  This  Legislative  Council  makes 
general   laws   and   levies   taxes.      A   majority   in    each 


GOVERNMENT  AND    CASTE  IN  INDIA.  201 

Council  are  British,  but  a  few  prominent  natives  of 
India,  distinguislied  for  rank,  property,  or  merit,  are 
added  to  each.  The  Executive  Council  sits  with  closed 
doors,  but  the  Legislative  Council  debates  in  public, 
and  its  proceedings  are  reported  as  fully  as  those  of  our 
own  Congress  of  the  United  States.  Thus  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  Government  of  British  India  differs  from 
that  of  the  United  States,  chiefly  in  its  denial  of  the 
elective  franchise.  All  its  appointments  are  derived, 
directly,  or  indirectly  from  the  crown  of  England. 

But  the  Government  of  India,  as  described,  is  not 
established  in  all  parts  of  the  conquered  territory.  There 
are  several  districts,  some  very  large  ones,  which  still  re- 
main under  the  government  of  native  hereditary  princes. 
All  these  provinces,  however,  acknowledge  the  supremacy 
of  the  British  Government,  and  submit  to  its  interven- 
tion in  the  local  administration  by  way  of  advice  or 
protest.  Some  of  them  feel  quite  independent.  Other 
native  princes  are  more  subservient,  and  consent  to  have 
their  revenues  collected  by  the  Calcutta  Government, 
and  even  applied  by  it  to  the  welfare  and  improvement 
of  the  districts.  Some  admit  judicial  interference,  and 
others  exclude  it.  Some  still  maintain  armies,  and  others 
have  surrendered  that  power.  Hence  it  is  apparent  that 
a  large  part  of  India  is  in  a  transitory  state,  and  much 
remains  to  be  done  to  consolidate  the  several  interests 
of  the  Government. 

The  European  population  of  India,  including  the 
British  Islands,  is  short  of  two  hundred  thousand,  who 
are  chiefly  engaged  in  the  public,  military,  and  civil 

14 


202  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

service,  although  in  the  principal  cities  there  is  a  large 
mercantile  population.  And  it  seems  wonderful  that 
such  a  small  number  should  be  capable  of  governing 
over  two  hundred  million  people.  There  are  very  few 
Europeans  in  India  that  were  born  there,  and  scarcely 
one  whose  parents  were  natives  of  the  country.  There 
is  a  class  of  children  born  in  the  country,  of  European 
fathers  and  native  mothers,  numbering  over  fifty  thou- 
sand, called  East  Indians,  who  are  commonly  acquainted 
with  both  the  foreign  and  native  languages;  many  of 
this  class  have  had  special  advantages  of  education,  and 
occupy  positions  as  clerks  or  agents  of  the  Government ; 
they  are  almost  as  dark  as  the  natives,  and  are  easily 
distinguished  by  their  European  features;  they  are  not 
reputed  to  possess  as  much  enterprise  of  character  as 
foreigners. 

The  great  objection  by  the  natives  to  the  schools 
and  colleges  in  India  is,  that  they  have  a  tendency  to 
oppose  their  religious  form  of  idolatry,  which  they  con- 
sider quite  as  sacred  as  we  do  Christianity.  But,  doubt- 
less, the  results  of  the  work  of  education  and  the  teach- 
ings of  Christianity  must  aid  greatly  in  the  overthrow 
of  idolatry,  and  of  other  forms  of  false  religion  which 
have  so  long  prevailed  in  the  land.  The  general  attitude 
of  the  Government  toward  the  systems  of  idolatry  has 
undergone  an  entire  change.  The  time  was,  and  not 
many  years  ago,  when  the  East  India  Company  derived 
a  large  revenue  from  the  native  temples  and  places  of 
worship;  when  the  English  soldiers  were  compelled 
to  bow  down  and  do  reverence  before  the  heathen  gods. 


GOVERNMENT  AND    CASTE   IN    INDIA.  203 

for  the  sake  of  securing  tlie  favor  or  avoiding  the  hos- 
tility of  the  natives.  At  length  a  long  indictment  was 
found,  and  recorded  against  the  former  rulers  of  the 
land  by  the  home  Government;  and  they  were  con- 
victed not  only  of  wickedness  but  of  folly,  when,  in 
the  great  mutiny  of  1857,  the  very  men  whose  favor 
they  had  courted  became  their  most  deadly  enemies. 

The  greatest  social  difficulty  of  the  Government  con- 
sists in  contendino;  ag;ainst  the  ancient  laws  and  customs 
of  caste.  A  touching  incident,  which  may  be  regarded 
as  showing  the  protest  of  human  nature  against  the  laws 
of  caste,  is  told  of  a  young  native  woman,  which  occurred 
a  few  years  ago.  She  was  indicted  for  the  murder  of  her 
child,  whose  father  was  of  a  lower  caste  than  her  own, 
and  Avith  which  intermarriaore  was  forbidden.  She  con- 
fessed  that  she  killed  the  infant,  rather  than  lose  her 
caste.  The  jury,  half  native  and  half  foreign,  pro- 
nounced her  not  guilty,  notwithstanding  her  confession. 
Therefore  the  rules  of  caste  are  unbroken  even  by  crime. 
A  man  may  commit  murder,  adultery,  theft,  or  perjury, 
and  even  be  convicted  of  such  crimes  without  losing 
caste ;  but  if  he  violates  any  of  the  ceremonial  laws, 
even  by  eating  with  a  European,  or  with  a  Mohammedan 
of  India,  or  with  any  one  not  belonging  to  his  class,  he 
would  be  degraded.  It  is  said  that  a  Brahman  was 
once  forced  by  a  European  to  eat  a  small  particle  of 
meat.  Althouo^h  his  offense  was  involuntarv,  he  had  to 
do  three  years'  penance,  and  pay  a  ransom  of  one  liun- 
dred  thousand  rupees,  to  be  restored  to  his  caste !  If 
one  violates  the  rules  of  caste,  he  or  she  is  driven  from 


204  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

tome  ;  and  any  friend  who  should  give  shelter  would 
be  denounce  I  as  an  outcast.  Neither  parents,  nor  wife, 
nor  children,  would  be  allowed  to  hold  intercourse  with 
such  a  man. 

This  is  the  penalty  that  every  Hindoo  incurs  who 
becomes  a  Christian,  and  caste  thus  proves  one  of  the 
most  serious  obstacles  to  the  progress  of  the  Christian 
religion.  It  is  a  severe  test,  but  just  such  a  test  as  was 
indicated  by  the  promise  of  the  Saviour :  "  Every  one 
that  hath  forsaken  houses,  or  brethren,  or  sisters,  or 
father,  or  mother,  or  wife,  or  children,  or  lands,  for  my 
name's  sake,  -shall  receive  an  hundred-fold,  and  shall  in- 
herit everlasting  life." 

There  are  certain  features  of  national  character  which 
not  only  discriminate  one  people  from  another  in  distant 
parts  of  the  globe,  but  also  the  same  people  from  their 
immediate  neighbors.  The  outlines  of  the  Hindoo  re- 
ligious system  have  already  been  traced,  and  we  have 
now  to  consider  their  political  arrangements  and  the 
peculiar  castes  and  classes  into  which  they  are  divided. 

The  Hindoos  appear  to  have  been  always  ruled  by 
despotic  governments;  and  for  many  ages  their  subjec- 
tion to  a  foreign  race,  differing  in  religion,  manners,  and 
lano-uao-e  from  those  of  their  own,  has  been  humiliating ; 
even  the  native  princes  who  had  attained  a  certain  de- 
gree of  power  have  been  degraded,  and  certain  privileges 
wrested  from  them. 

A  township  or  village  is  formed  by  a  community 
of  the  same  caste,  occupying  a  certain  extent  of  land, 
the  boundaries  of  which  are  carefully  defined.     Some- 


GOVERNMENT   AND    CASTE   IN  INDIA.  205 

times  it  is  cultivated  in  common  by  the  united  labor 
of  the  inhabitants,  but  more  commonly  each  ploughs 
his  separate  field.  Some  part  of  the  land  is  assigned, 
to  those  who  have  charge  of  important  public  services. 
They  have  over  them  one  w^ho  acts  as  judge  and  magis- 
trate, and  treats  with  judges  of  similar  communities. 
Whatever  change  the  supreme  authority  in  the  emj)ire 
may  undergo,  or  into  whatever  hands  it  may  pass  by 
inheritance,  usurpation,  or  force  of  arms,  whether  its 
rulers  be  native  or  foreign,  the  j^eculiar  constitution 
of  each  township  remains  unaltered ;  no  revolutions 
affect  it,  no  conquest  changes  it ;  even  when  invasion 
has  compelled  its  members  to  leave  their  native  seats, 
and  spend  years  in  exile,  upon  the  first  dawn  of  tran- 
quillity, they  hasten  back,  and  if  possible  resume  their 
ancient  inheritance. 

The  next  grand  feature,  and  one  now  peculiar  to 
India,  consists  in  the  division  of  the  people  into  castes; 
it  is  an  institution  which  has  long  eftected  a  separation 
among  certain  orders  of  society  as  complete  as  if  they 
had  belonged  to  diiferent  sj^ecies.  Although  its  pov/er 
has  been  shaken  by  the  inroads  of  the  English,  it  still 
continues  to  exist.  The  four  principal  castes  consist  of 
the  Brahmans,  Kshatriyas,  Vaisyas,  and  the  Sudras.  It 
is  through  religion,  or  rather  a  slavish  superstition,  that 
these  distinctions  are  sanctioned.  The  sacred  books 
claimed  by  the  Brahmans  as  having  been  issued  in  the 
moment  of  creation  from  the  mouth  of  Brahma  repre- 
sent Kshatriyas  from  liis  arms,  Vaisyas  from  his  thigh, 
and  Sudras  from  his  feet ;    accordingly,  while  the  first 


206  •  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

enjoys  a  rank  almost  equal  to  divinity,  the  latter  are 
denied  the  rights  of  common  humanity.  Their  sacred 
books  are  filled  with  relations  of  the  miraculous  powers 
of  the  Brahmans,  millions  of  years  ago,  in  drying  up  the 
sea,  vomiting  fire  on  their  enemies,  and  subduing  the 
great  nations  of  the  earth.  Brahmans  are  first  in  rank 
of  society.  In  the  great  festivals,  when  the  opulent 
occasionally  make  a  display  of  their  wealth,  the  most 
honored  of  them  are  loaded  with  presents ;  at  entertain- 
ments given  by  those  in  high  places,  it  is  said  to  amount 
to  many  thousand  rupees ;  lands  and  cattle  are  also 
given  at  their  feasts  by  the  pious.  So  far,  indeed,  do 
they  rank  above  every  other  class,  that  the  daughter 
of  the  poorest  Brahman  is  taught  to  consider  a  king  as 
no  equal  match  for  her. 

The  Kshatriyas,  or  military  class,  are  second  in  dignity. 
During  the  era  of  Hindoo  independence,  not  only  gen- 
erals, but  even  kings,  were  chosen  from  this  body,  al- 
though, since  the  subjection  of  India  by  foreign  powers, 
they  have  suffered  a  very  severe  depression.  The  only 
powerful  body  of  this  class  now  remaining  are  those 
under  the  name  of  Rajpoots,  who  occupy  the  wild  tract 
of  country  bordering  on  the  western  desert  of  India. 

The  Vaisyas  rank  third,  and  belong  more  to  the  in- 
dustrial part  of  the  community,  but  their  functions  are 
not  very  distinctly  explained.  By  some  they  are  said  to 
be  traders,  and  by  others  shepherds  and  cultivators  of 
the  soil. 

The  Sudras  stand  lowest  in  the  scale  of  castes,  and 
suffer  a  degree  of  degradation  greater  than  befalls  any 


GOVERNMENT  AND    CASTE   IN  INDIA.  207 

otlier  class  of  people  not  actually  bondsmen.  They  are 
not  only  doomed  to  serve  and  toil,  but,  as  far  as  possible, 
are  debarred  from  improving  tlieii*  circumstances.  Even 
the  attempt  of  a  Sudra  to  accumulate  property  is  declared 
to  be  unhnvful,  and  gives  pain  to  the  Brahmans.  Their 
spiritual  prospects  are  equally  looked  down  upon,  and 
they  are  not  permitted  in  public,  or  openly,  to  perform 
a  single  religious  ceremony.  Their  occupation  is  princi- 
pally agricultural,  and  some  exercise  the  various  trades 
and  handicrafts.  Their  employment  is  invariably  trans- 
mitted by  hereditary  descent  from  father  to  son,  and 
they  never  attempt  to  vary  their  method,  or  make  any 
improvements  on  the  models  derived  from  their  ancestors. 
To  taste  the  food  of  another  caste,  or  to  hold  communica- 
tion with  persons  of  an  inferior  caste,  constitutes  the 
chief  of  their  deadly  sins.  If  one  should  swallow  a  mor- 
sel of  beef,  it  converts  at  once  the  most  revered  Brah- 
man into  a  despised  and  miserable  outcast,  and  he  at 
once  loses  his  caste.  The  loss  of  caste  to  them  is  the 
loss  of  the  whole  world ;  henceforth  the  offender  can  see 
no  more  the  face  of  father,  mother,  brother,  or  sister,  or 
even  his  wife  or  children ;  they  will  fly  from  his  pres- 
ence as  from  one  infected  with  some  deadly  distemper. 
Those  who  violate  the  laws  of  caste  often  commit  sui- 
cide, or  take  refuge  in  the  caves  of  the  mountains,  or 
some  remote  place  where  they  can  never  see  a  friend. 


CHAPTEE   XIX. 

CUSTOMS    AND    MAKNEES    OF   THE   NATIVES. 

The  Hindoos  appear  to  be  imbued  with  a  tliorougli 
selfisliness,  viewing  the  mass  of  foreigners  only  as  in- 
struments to  promote  their  own  interest  and  that  of 
their  immediate  connections.  Yet  tliey  are  courteous 
and  polite,  and  in  meeting  with  foreigners  they  inva- 
riably make  a  graceful  bow,  by  raising  the  right  hand 
to  the  forehead,  often  with  a  cheerful  smile  upon  the 
face.  If  this  mode  of  politeness  should  indicate  any  de- 
gree of  sympathy,  then  they  are  misrepresented  by  those 
who  dwell  amouo;  them. 

Nowhere  in  India  is  woman  elevated  to  her  true 
position,  as  the  equal  or  companion  of  man ;  she  is  ex- 
cluded from  the  ordinary  social  intercourse  of  every- 
day life.  Among  the  poorer  classes  she  is  often  made 
a  mere  beast  of  burden,  or  water-drawer;  by  none  is 
she  deemed  worthy  of  education.  The  common  females 
exhibit  their  fondness  for  jewelry  by  the  display  of  a 
profusion  of  ornaments:  they  wear  rings  in  their  ears 
and  in  their  noses,  necklaces  trimmed  with  jewels, 
bracelets  around  their  arms  and  ankles,  and  rings  on 
their  toes  and  hno^ers.  The  rino-s  worn  in  the  nose  are 
put  through  the  side  of  the  nostril,  and  I  have  seen 
some  of  them  from  two  to  three  inches  in  diameter. 


CUSTOMS   AND    MANNERS    OF    TEE   NATIVES.        209 

The  different  races  and  religions,  to  some  extent,  may 
be  distinguished  by  their  dress.  The  Hindoos  button 
the  vest  on  the  right  side,  and  the  Mohammedans  on 
the  left,  and  the  numerous  sects  often  wear  different 
colors  and  cut  of  costume.  The  garments  worn  by  the 
Hindoos  of  to-day  are  probably  of  the  same  cut  and 
fashion  as  those  worn  centuries  before  the  Christian  era. 
The  dress  of  the  men  usually  consists  of  two  j)ieces  of 
wide  cotton  cloth,  one  of  which  is  wrapped  around  the 
waist,  and  the  other  thrown  loosely  over  the  shoulder; 
a  shawl,  formed  in  the  shape  of  a  turban,  upon  the  head, 
and  sandals  upon  the  feet,  complete  the  costume.  The 
women  have  a  single  piece  of  cloth,  either  silk  or  cotton, 
plain  or  colored,  several  yards  in  length,  which  is  partly 
tied  around  the  waist,  forming  a  kind  of  garment  tliat 
reaches  to  the  feet ;  the  rest  is  then  passed  around  the 
body  and  over  the  head,  falling  down  the  back,  which 
gives  them  rather  a  graceful  appearance.  Some  of  the 
native  men  wear  loose  trousers,  as  wide  as  ladies'  skirts 
at  the  bottom,  looj^ed  around  the  ankles.  The  wealthier 
classes  among  the  natives,  both  Mohammedan  and  Hin- 
doo, indulge  freely  in  dress,  Avearing  the  richest  silks  and 
finest  muslins,  trimmed  with  gold  and  silver  lace,  and 
their  hair  adorned  with  rich  ornaments.  Both  rich  and 
poor  are  very  fond  of  jewelry,  and  by  those  who  can 
afford  it  there  is  no  limit  to  their  decoration,  excejit  the 
extent  of  their  means. 

It  is  said  that  the  Hindoos  are  not  the  original  pos- 
sessors of  the  soil.  When  they  came  into  the  countiy, 
some  thousands  of  years  ago,  they  found  it  already  occu- 


210  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

pied  by  a  people  wlio  Lad  strayed  over  there  not  long 
after  tlie  dispersion.  The  descendants  of  these  tribes, 
who  were  driven  back  by  the  Hindoos,  some  twenty-five 
or  thirty  centuries  ago,  may  still  be  found  in  some  of  the 
remote  parts  of  India,  but  their  numbers  are  so  few  that 
the  Hindoo  may  be  regarded  as  the  native  race. 

It  is  said  that  a  certain  class  of  the  Hindoo  people,  in 
the  mountains  and  upper  provinces,  club  together  and 
carry  on  a  regular  system  of  plunder,  which  is  deeply 
rooted  in  their  habits.  They  are  not  like  European  rob- 
bers, bold  desperadoes  who  set  at  defiance  the  order  and 
laws  of  society,  for  they  are  recognized  and  sanctioned 
by  certain  laws  in  the  ancient  codes,  dividing  the  spoil 
between  themselves  and  the  state.  Even  under  the  Brit- 
ish Government,  which  denounces  such  a  state  of  things 
with  heavy  penalties,  it  is  still  carried  on  to  a  great  ex- 
tent. They  calculate  on  their  dexterity  for  eluding  de- 
tection, and  some  of  them  often  live  in  the  midst  of 
villages,  where  their  practices  are  well  known  to  the 
people,  but  which  scarcely  render  them  any  the  less 
respected  by  their  neighbors.  They  go  in  large  bands, 
under  the  lead  of  a  chief,  and  do  not  commit  depreda- 
tions on  their  immediate  neighbors,  or  within  the  terri- 
tory of  their  own  village.  As  they  pass  through  the 
country  towns  they  compel  to  foll9w  them  all  who  can 
render  any  service,  threatening  instant  death  in  case  of 
refusal.  The  timid  inhabitants  on  their  ai:)proach  are 
struck  with  terror,  and  seldom  attempt  resistance,  but 
at  once  surrender  such  effects  as  the  marauders  may 
require.     At  their  departure  the  outlaws  utter  fearful 


CUSTOMS   AND    MANNERS    OF    THE  NATIVES.        211 

oaths  against  sucli  as  may  take  any  steps  to  discover  or 
bring  them  to  justice.  The  terror  inspired  by  such 
threats,  the  difficulty  of  bringing  evidence  before  the 
English  courts,  and  the  facility  of  retreat  into  the  thick 
jungles  by  which  many  of  the  provinces  are  surrounded^ 
enable  them  Ions;  to  baffle  the  efforts  of  the  Government 
officers  in  their  arrest. 

The  Hindoos  are  generally  active  and  industrious, 
eagerly  bent  on  the  accumulatiou  of  wealth,  and  though 
wages  are  low,  and  the  laboring  classes  extremely  poor, 
yet  capital  yields  high  profits ;  therefore  many  of  those 
who  have  been  fortunate  in  their  money-lending,  or  mer- 
cantile pursuits,  have  attained  very  great  wealth,  very 
little  of  which  is  expended  in  the  daily  enjoyments  of 
life.  Those  in  the  country  villages  live  in  low  mud 
houses,  eating  and  living  on  the  bare  ground  floor,  hav- 
ing neither  tables  nor  other  furniture.  Their  dwellings 
in  the  large  cities  are  more  expensively  constructed,  but 
the  same  custom  of  living  is  to  a  great  extent  practised 
both  by  the  rich  and  poor  alike. 


CHAPTER   XX. 


PEODUCTS      OF      INDIA. 


The  rents  in  India  exceed  a  third  of  tlie  gross  prod- 
uce of  the  land,  hence  a  farm  can  only  yield  a  very 
small  income.  The  implements  of  agriculture  are  of  the 
most  imperfect  form ;  the  name  of  plough  can  scarcely 
be  applied  to  the  instrument  used  for  breaking  the  soil, 
for  it  has  neither  coulter  nor  mould-board,  the  handle  has 
but  little  power  in  guiding  it,  and  the  share  does  not 
penetrate  the  soil  beyond  three  inches.  The  harrow  is 
in  the  shape  of  a  ladder,  on  which  the  driver  stands  to 
guide  the  team,  and,  instead  of  having  teeth,  rough, 
bushes  are  attached  to  assist  in  coverino;  the  seeds.  The 
hoe  and  shovel  are  of  the  same  simj^le  character.  The 
rotation  of  crops  is  a  principle  unknown  in  India ;  every- 
thing possible  is  drawn  from  the  ground  until  it  is  com- 
pletely exhausted,  when  it  must  be  recruited  by  being 
left  fallow  some  time ;  manure  is  scai'cely  used  at  all. 
In  some  parts  of  India  the  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  con- 
tinues to  bear  fair  crops  without  intermission.  The 
farmers  in  India  spend  much  time  in  irrigation,  without 
which  the  land  becomes  languid  and  will  die  for  the 
want  of  water.  This  system  requires  more  labor  than 
working  the  land  itself,  for  water  has  to  be  apj^lied  every 
day  during  the  dry  season,  which  commonly  continues 


PRODUCTS    OF  INDIA.  213 

for  more  than  one-half  of  the  year.  In  addition  to  the 
supply  of  water  furnished  by  the  great  rivers,  princes 
and  wealthy  individuals  liave  built  immense  tanks  and 
pools,  or  reservoirs,  for  public  use.  Every  farmer  also 
has  wells — some  of  great  depth — on  his  premises.  Hun- 
dreds and  thousands  ot  people  may  be  seen  all  over  the 
face  of  the  country  drawing  water ;  much  is  drawn  by 
hand-labor,  but  the  larger  farmers  draw  by  bullocks, 
with  a  wooden  framework  over  the  well ;  in  the  top  is  a 
pulley-block,  through  which  a  rope  is  rove ;  at  one  end 
is  attached  a  large  leatliern  bucket,  at  the  other  the  bul- 
locks, and  as  the  water  is  raised  it  is  emptied  into  a 
wooden  trough,  through  wliicli  it  is  conveyed  over  the 
fields,  in  a  similar  manner  to  that  practised  in  China. 

Rice  in  India  is  tlie  principal  staff  of  life,  being  used 
to  a  greater  extent  than  any  other  grain.  It  is  the  food 
of  the  highest  and  the  lowest,  and  is  the  principal  har- 
vest of  all  Asia.  Its  production  requires  more  water 
than  any  other  grain,  and  the  crop  is  wholly  dependent 
on  irrigation.  The  rice-ground  in  India  is  prepared  in 
April,  and  the  seed  is  sown  in  May  and  harvested  in 
August. 

Cotton  is  raised  to  a  considerable  extent  in  India ;  it 
used  to  be  inferior  to  that  grown  in  America,  and  w^as 
less  valued  by  the  English  dealers,  but  in  later  years  it 
has  been  greatly  improved  by  a  change  of  seed,  and  now 
compares  favorably  with  that  raised  in  our  Southern 
States. 

Silk  is  another  valuable  article  in  the  India  trade. 
It  is  produced  largely  in  Bengal,  and  not   so  much  in 


214  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

tlie  upper  i^roviuces.  Silk  was  originally  confined  to 
the  East,  but  since  its  introduction  into  Europe  it  has 
been  so  much  improved  that  the  French  and  Italian 
silk  is  now  decidedly  superior  to  the  Indian  and  Chinese. 
The  silk-manufacture  in  India  is  of  great  antiquity,  and 
is  carried  on  to  considerable  perfection  without  the  aid 
of  machinery.  The  loom  requires  two  j^ersons  to  work 
it,  and  probably  is  now  the  same  as  that  in  use  many 
thousand  years  ago.  The  shawls  of  Cashmere,  made 
from  the  wool  of  goats,  are  all  woven  by  hand,  and  give 
employment  to  many  thousand  people. 

Sugar  is  extensively  raised  and  consumed  in  India. 
The  cane,  however,  is  said  to  be  inferior  in  strength  to 
that  of  the  West  Indies,  and  the  product  is  principally 
made  into  molasses.  It  is  claimed  by  many  intelligent 
persons  that,  if  European  skill,  capital,  and  machinery, 
were  applied  to  the  production  of  sugar,  India  could 
easily  supj^ly  the  whole  British  Empire. 

Tobacco  was  not  originally  raised  in  India,  but,  as 
soon  as  the  Europeans  had  found  it  in  America,  it  was 
introduced  into  the  East.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  for 
its  growth,  and,  as  it  is  now  raised  in  nearly  every  part 
of  the  empire,  a  considerable  amount  is  being  exported 
to  Europe. 

Indigo  is  extensively  grown ;  in  a  commercial  point 
of  view  it  has  taken  the  lead  of  almost  every  other  com- 
modity, and  commands  a  ready  sale,  both  in  Europe  and 
America.  Although,  as  the  name  implies,  it  is  strictly  an 
Indian  plant,  since  the  country  came  into  the  posses- 
sion of  the  English,  its  culture  has  been  greatly  extended. 


PRODUCTS    OF  IXDIA.  215 

Opium  is  anotlier  great  product  of  India,  and  liad 
long  been  raised  in  the  country  before  it  came  under 
British  rule.  In  1773  tlie  East  India  Company,  becom- 
ing aware  of  its  great  pecuniary  value,  assumed  the 
monopoly  of  its  growth.  It  has  ever  since  been  raised 
under  the  direction  and  for  the  benefit  of  the  Govern- 
ment. It  is  cultivated  largely  in  the  southern  prov- 
inces, in  the  districts  bordering  on  the  Ganges.  It  is  the 
juice  taken  from  the  seed-vessels  of  the  common  white 
poppy,  extracted  before  the  seeds  are  fully  ripe.  There 
are  few  prettier  sights  than  the  poppy-fields  present 
when  in  full  bloom. 

Pepper  is  also  an  important  object  of  Hindoo  agri- 
culture. This  valuable  spice,  for  which  there  is  such 
a  general  demand,  is  raised  amid  the  wooded  hills  of 
Malabar,  shaded  by  dense  forests.  It  also  grows  on 
many  of  the  East  Indian  islands,  but  the  Malabar  pepper 
is  considered  the  best.  It  is  exported  in  the  two  states, 
black  and  white,  a  distinction  which  arises  from  the 
different  modes  in  which  the  seeds  have  been  prepared. 

India  has  been  celebrated  not  onl}^  for  the  rich 
products  of  her  soil,  but  her  manufactures  have  also 
enjoyed  a  high  reputation  from  the  earliest  antiquity, 
all  by  hand-labor.  The  country  contains  a  vast  number 
of  inhabitants  who  are  wretchedly  poor,  and  a  few  who 
are  immensely  rich.  On  the  one  hand,  the  great  mass 
of  the  people  live  in  abject  poverty  upon  the  coarsest 
food,  while  some  of  the  rich  subsist  upon  the  finest  lux- 
uries and  products  of  the  land. 

India  is  also  prominent  in  the  great  mines  of  wealth, 


216  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

gold,  silver,  and  precious  stones,  and  no  expense  is 
spared  in  obtaining  the  rich  treasure  for  her  princes 
and  great  men  of  the  country,  which  they  so  highly 
prize  and  hoard  up.  These  mines  in  former  years  are 
said  to  have  employed  many  thousand  men  to  work 
them ;  also  ingenious  mechanics  in  gold  and  silver,  for 
cutting,  polishing,  and  setting  precious  stones :  and  now, 
as  perhaps  centuries  ago,  the  ground  is  the  workman's 
bench ;  his  hands  and  feet  the  vise,  and  his  tools  only 
rude  pieces  of  iron  with  sharp  edges;  he  carries  on  his 
trade  in  a  slovenly  manner,  waiting  till  he  is  sent  for 
by  a  customer,  when  he  picks  up  his  little  set  of  imj^le- 
ments  and  fire-dish,  and  hastily  walks  off  to  do  the 
work. 

India  has  always  produced  commodities  of  great 
value  and  beauty,  but  the  demand  has  much  diminished, 
in  consequence  of  the  inability  to  cope  with  the  im- 
proved machinery  of  Europe  and  the  United  States. 
Cashmere  shawls,  w^hich  are  worked  by  hand-labor,  are 
still  exported  in  large  quantities  ;  and  many  other 
articles,  manufactured  without  the  aid  of  steam-ma- 
chinery, are  sent  abroad ;  but  calicoes,  muslins,  and 
silks,  are  mostly  consumed  in  the  country.  The  Euro- 
pean returns  for  India  goods  have  been  limited;  the 
Orientals,  generally  speaking,  have  shown  very  little 
taste  for  the  productions  of  the  West,  and  require  that 
their  commodities  should  be  paid  for  in  gold  and  silver, 
which  has  a  tendency  to  retard  the  trade  and  commerce 
of  any  country. 

By  not  having  a  rainfall  in   the  usual  way,  as  in 


PRODUCTS    OF   IN  LI  A.  ^  217 

Europe  and  America,  the  agriculturist  in  India  is  placed 
at  a  disadvantage.  Rain  only  falls  in  certain  districts 
in  a  sj^ecific  time,  or  occurs  at  certain  periods,  called  tlie 
rainy  season,  and  in  general  there  is  but  one  rainy  sea- 
son during  the  year,  commencing  in  June  and  continuing 
till  October,  Avhicli  is  during  the  southwest  monsoons;' 
little  or  no  rain  falling  in  the  other  months.  In  the 
peninsula  of  India,  however,  there  are  in  some  places 
two  rainy  seasons :  one  during  the  southwest  monsoon 
on  the  west  side,  the  other  in  the  time  of  the  northeast 
monsoon  on  the  east  side  of  the  country.  It  is  said  that 
the  quantity  of  rain  which  sometimes  falls  in  a  short 
time  is  very  great ;  that  the  roads  become  like  rivei'S, 
and  the  fields  like  lakes;  but  this  only  happens  at  long- 
intervals  ;  generally  speaking,  it  falls  gently,  even  in  the 
absence  of  clouds,  with  bright  sunshine.  These  heavy 
showers  are  generally  accompanied  with  terrific  thunder 
and  lio;htninof.  For  some  hours  lio-htninsi:  is  seen  almost 
without  intermission ;  sometimes  it  onlv  illuminates  the 
sky,  and  shows  the  clouds  near  the  horizon ;  at  others  it 
lights  up  the  distant  hills,  and  again  leaves  all  in  dark- 
ness, when  in  an  instant  it  reappears  in  vivid  flashes. 
During  all  this  time  thunder  never  ceases  to  roar,  and 
is  only  silenced  by  some  nearer  sound  which  echoes 
through  the  ear  with  such  a  sudden  and  tremendous 
crash  as  can  scarcely  fail  to  strike  the  insensible  heart 
with  fear  and  reverence  for  Him  who  holds  the  elements 
within  his  grasp,  and  the  world  at  his  control. 

15 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

*  CALCUTTA     TO     BENARES. 

January  loth. — We  have  been  traveling  for  nearly 
five  months,  and  have  reached  a  point  more  than  fourteen 
thousand  miles  westward  all  the  way,  to  find  the  East.  I 
was  told  at  home  that  Japan,  China,  and  India,  were  all 
in  the  East,  and  we  still  go  on  westward,  turning  neither 
to  the  south  nor  north,  and  I  should  like  to  know  how 
much  farther  we  have  to  go  before  we  find  ourselves  in 
the  East.  We  have  now  com])leted  about  one-half  of 
our  tour  around  the  globe.  But  more  perplexing  than 
all  other  philosophy  is  that  composed  of  geography  and 
astronomy,  which  j)laces  the  United  States  of  America 
right  under  our  feet,  and,  worst  of  all,  tells  us  that  New 
York,  our  good  old  town,  is  turned  topsy-turvy  !  It  re- 
quires a  great  power  of  specific  gravity  to  realize  this 
philosophy;  and,  more  bothering  still,  although  I  am 
quite  sure  that  I  sit  and  stand  right-end  upward,  with 
giound  below,  and  sky  above,  as  I  gaze  from  the  hotel 
veranda,  the  people  in  the  streets  of  Calcutta  and  the 
ships  on  the  Hoogly  River  aie  the  same.  I  am  told, 
from  the  standpoint  at  home,  that  the  people  in  India, 
and  the  ships  upon  the  sea,  with  their  passengers,  are 
all  wrong-end  upward,  the  keels  of  ships  pointing  tow- 
ard New  York,  with  their  masts  the  contrary  way.     To 


CALCUTTA    TO    BENARES.  219 

solve  this  problem,  I  wisli  that  some  one  could  only 
send  me  a  telegram  tlirougli,  either  below  or  above.  If 
these  things  are  so,  there  is  something  more  in  going 
around  the  ^^'orld  than  appears  on  the  surface. 

Every  intelligent  person  knows  that  it  is  by  the 
mighty  power  of  steam  applied  to  locomotion,  by  land 
and  sea,  tliat  we  are  enabled  to  comjjlete  a  belt  of 
traveling  around  the  globe  in  a  comparatively  short  pe- 
riod to  what  we  could  a  few  years  ago,  when  we  had  to 
traverse  the  sea  by  sailing-ships,  and  the  land  by  coaches. 

I  recall  to  memory  some  twenty-five  years  ago  when 
the  srold  excitement  broke  out  in  California.  Little 
did  I  then  dream  that  it  would  evei-  be  my  privilege 
to  cross  over  the  Western  prairies  and  see  the  Indian 
tribes,  and  other  features  of  pictorial  mountain  scenery. 
Far  distant  was  the  thought,  when  I  was  a  boy,  study- 
ing geography  of  the  world  in  a  country  school,  that  it 
would  ever  be  my  lot  to  cross  the  Kocky  Mountains  by 
rail  at  an  elevation  of  eight  thousand  feet,  and  scale  the 
Sierra  Nevada  ran^re  at  an  altitude  of  over  seven  thou- 
sand  feet;  and  the  remotest  of  my  thoughts  could  not 
comprehend  that  it  would  ever  be  my  privilege  to  make 
the  tour  around  the  world  in  so  short  a  period  of  time. 

This  evening  we  leave  Calcutta  by  the  half-past  ten 
o'clock  train  for  Delhi,  distance  nine  hundred  and  ninety- 
six  miles,  fare  eighty-eight  rupees.  It  was  a  beautiful 
moonlio-ht  evenino\  The  terminus  of  the  East  India 
Kailway  is  situated  directly  opposite  Calcutta,  across  the 
Hoogly.  Here  we  presented  ourselves  for  a  journey  of 
twenty-four  hours.     A  telegram  from  uj)  the  road  has 


220  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

been  received  tliat  a  train  of  cars  ran  off  the  track  last 
niglit,  killing  and  wounding  a  large  number  of  j^assen- 
gers,  wbicli  to  liear  was  not  congenial  to  our  feelings. 
The  Indian  sleeping-cars  are  a  modification  of  the  Amer- 
ican system,  and,  although  they  do  not  in  India  furni-h 
bedding  and  attendance,  there  is  no  extra  charge  made 
for  the  carriage,  and  it  was  cheaper  to  buy  bedquilts  and 
pillows  than  to  pay  three  dollars  a  night,  as  in  America^ 
for  the  accommodation  ;  and  the  bedding  is  also  required 
in  the  liotels,  where  it  is  only  customary  to  provide  a 
bedstead,  a  mattress,  one  sheet,  and  perhaps  one  hard 
pillow.  On  leaving  the  depot  at  Calcutta  we  made  our 
beds  in  the  best  possible  manner,  and  should  have  en- 
joyed a  comfortable  night's  repose,  but  the  train  stop- 
ping at  short  intervals  all  through  the  night,  taking  in 
and  putting  off  passengers,  very  much  broke  our  rest. 

January  KStli. — This  morning  early  we  arrive  at 
Newadi,  two  hundred  and  twenty-nine  miles  from  Cal- 
cutta. The  day  is  bright  and  pleasant,  but  warm.  This 
little  town  is  pleasantly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  j 
here  an  additional  eno;iue  is  attached  to  the  train  to 
assist  i:i  pulling  up  the  steep  incline,  through  a  deep  cut 
in  the  road.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  under  a  good 
state  of  cultivation,  and  the  poppy-fields  are  numerous. 
At  nine  o'clock  we  arrive  at  a  small  town  called  ]\Iauan- 
pur,  stopping  long  enough  to  breakfast. 

The  greater  part  of  the  plain  of  India  is  destitute  of 
heavy  forests,  and  I  may  say  the  greater  part  of  the  con- 
tinent of  Asia,  except  on  the  neighboring  islands  near 
the  equator,  where  they  are  very  dense,  although  a  large 


CALCUTTA    TO    BENARES.  221 

part  of  Hindostaii  is  in  jungle,  whicli  is  a  brusliwood 
from  ten  to  twelve  feet  in  lieiglit,  thickly  covering  the 
ground. 

At  two  o'clock  we  stop  at  Pakowr  and  take  dinner. 
This  station  was  one  of  the  tirst  places  plundered  and 
destroyed  by  the  rebels  during  the  insurrection  of  1857. 
The  bungalows  of  the  railway-officers  were  destroyed  by 
fire.  The  Ranis  palace  was  sacked,  and  the  native  town 
overrun  by  eight  thousand  insurgents,  armed  w^ith  bows 
and  arrows,  and  battle-axes ;  many  of  the  inhabitants 
were  barbarously  murdered,  others  fled  to  the  jungle  for 
their  lives,  and  it  was  a  lono;  time  before  the  town  was 
reclaimed.  Shortly  after  leavins;  Pakowr  we  came  to 
Rajmahab,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ganges,  a 
town  of  considerable  note,  and  at  the  station  (called 
Talijeria)  is  an  interesting  missionary  establishment 
which  was  founded  by  the  Rev.  W.  Puxley. 

Sultanganja  is  the  next  station,  and  is  of  some  repute. 
It  was  here — when  tlie  railroad  company  was  making 
excavations  for  extension  —  that  a  curious  Bnddhist 
image,  made  of  copper,  ten  feet  high,  was  dug  out  of  a 
mound.  The  country  is  covered  with  Buddhist  temples, 
many  of  them  going  to  decay.  Shortly  after  leaving  the 
village  we  pass  through  a  tunnel,  nine  hundred  feet 
in  length,  the  only  one  upon  the  road.  The  country 
through  which  we  ride,  so  far  as  we  can  see,  is  composed 
of  a  plain,  dotted  with  towns  and  hamlets,  and  in  the 
distance  we  obtain  an  occasional  view  of  the  mountains, 
ivliich  makes  the  ride  one  of  interest. 

The  train  stops  nearly  an  hour  in  the  city  of  Patana, 


222  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

beautifully  situated  on  tlae  banks  of  the  Ganges,  and 
containing  a  large  native  population.  The  streets  are 
narrow,  and  the  houses  densely  crowded  together.  The 
rooms  are  still  shown  where  the  massacre  of  the  Euro- 
peans took  place.  The  victims  are  buried  in  the  town, 
and  a  monument  is  erected  over  them. 

At  six  o'clock  in  the  evening  we  arrive  at  Mogul 
Serai,  where  we  make  a  change  on  a  branch-road  six 
miles  in  leno;tli  leadins;  to  the  Gano;es,  where  we  found 
carriages  in  readiness  to  convey  the  passengers  across 
the  river,  over  a  bridge  made  of  boats  joined  together, 
and  on  reaching  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream  we  had 
about  three  miles  to  ride  to  reach  Sekrole,  or  the  canton- 
ment, the  place  where  all  the  European  population  are 
located.  On  our  arrival  in  the  holy  city  we  put  up  at 
Clark's  Hotel,  which  is  the  best  kept  in  the  place.  We 
were  furnished  with  a  good  suite  of  rooms,  including  a 
bath,  at  ten  rupees  a  day  for  us  two.  Mr.  Clark  is  an 
Englishman,  of  a  high-toned  character.  He  has  been  in 
the  country  for  the  last  twenty-five  years,  and  married 
a  native  lady  of  education  and  accomplishments,  who 
speaks  several  languages.  There  was  no  })lace  in  the 
town  where  we  could  have  been  more  highly  entertained* 
or  procured  more  information,  than  at  Mr.  Clark's  hott  L 


(J) 

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PQ 


CHAPTER   XXII. 


BENARES. 


Tjie  city  of  Benares  is  beautifully  situated  ou  the 
left  bank  of  tlie  Gano;es,  and  contains  two  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  inhabitants.  It  is  of  great  antiquit}',  and 
is  conceded  to  be  the  home  of  Hindooism,  Her  temples 
number  over  a  thousand,  exclusive  of  the  numerous 
smaller  shrines  occupied  by  idols,  which  meet  the  eye  in 
every  direction.  The  number  of  idols  worshiped  in  this 
city  by  the  people  is  reputed  to  be  not  less  than  half  a 
million  !  The  city  extends  from  two  to  three  miles  along 
the  bank  of  the  river,  surmountino-  an  elevation  of  about 
eighty  feet  above  the  water's  surface.  Above  the  river, 
on  the  side  of  the  embankment,  rise  some  noble  build- 
ings, many  of  tliem  four  and  five  stories  high,  all  con- 
structed of  stone.  Owing  to  the  rise,  and  consequent 
swift  current,  of  the  river  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year, 
some  of  their  foundations  have  sunk  for  several  feet,  thus 
partially  destroying  their  beauty.  Many  of  these  build- 
ings are  the  palaces  of  wealthy  Indian  princes.  A  row 
of  palaces,  temples,  and  ghauts,  extends  along  the  river- 
front for  over  a  mile. 

Dr.  Sherriug,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  at 

'  Benares,  said  that  the  early  history  of  this  sacred  city 

of  the  Hindoos  is  involved  in  much  obscurity;  that  it  is 


224  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

doubtless  of  great  antiquity,  aud  may  even  date  back 
from  tlie  time  when  tbe  Aryan  race  iirst  s|)read  itself  over 
Northern  India.  Wlien  it  was  first  built,  and  by  what 
prince  or  patriarch,  is  altogether  unknown.  While  many 
cities  aud  nations  have  fallen  into  decay  and  perished, 
her  sun  has  never  gone  down.  As  a  queen,  she  has  ever 
received  the  willing  homage  of  her  subjects,  scattered 
over  all  India;  and,  as  a  lover,  she  has  secured  their 
affection  and  resrard. 

And  now,  after  the  lapse  of  so  many  years.  Dr.  Sher- 
ring  said  that  the  city  still  maintains  most  of  the  fresh- 
ness and  all  the  beauty  of  her  early  youth.  No  eight  in 
the  world  probably  can  surpass  that  of  Benares,  as  seen 
in  the  distance  from  the  river-side.  He  also  speaks  of 
her  as  a  city  which  in  wealth,  dignity,  and  sanctity,  is 
auiono;  the  foremost  in  all  Asia. 

January  lltJi. — This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  attend 
the  Episcopal  church,  situated  in  the  English  part  of  the 
city.  There  \vere  present  about  one  hundred  Europeans 
and  ten  natives. 

January  ISt/t. — This  morning,  after  an  early  break- 
fast, we  procure  a  guide  and  carriages,  and  ride  to  the 
Ganges.  On  the  way  we  pass  the  Durga  Kund  Temple, 
which  is  a  lofty  and  graceful  building  of  pyramidal  form, 
the  lines  being  broken  by  numerous  turrets,  or  clusters 
of  turrets,  the  whole  being  covered  with  elaborate  carv- 
ino;,  and  with  carved  ficfures  of  sacred  animals.  It  is 
located  in  a  small  inclosure,  surrounded  Ijy  an  open 
colonnade.  It  stands  upon  twelve  elaborately  -  carved 
pillars,  and  is  sui'mounted  l)y  a  dome,  with  a  cupola  at 


BEX  A  RES.  225 

€acli  corner,  and  a  bell  is  suspended  from  the  centre  of 
the  dome.  This  temple  is  held  very  sacred  in  Hindoo 
•estimation,  and  crowds  of  ^vorshipers  were  gathered 
around  it  to  j)ay  their  devotions  and  strew  their  offer- 
ings on  the  shrine  of  the  goddess. 

But  this  temple  is  better  known  by  Europeans  by 
the  name  of  the  Monkey  Temple,  for  there  are  hundreds 
of  monkeys — all  living  deities — which  crowd  not  only 
the  buildino;  but  the  immediate  Deio:hborhood,  tlius  otv- 
iiig  it  its  name.  Fine,  fat,  well-fed  fellows  they  are,  of 
a  rich  orange  color ;  from  the  venerable  patriarch  to  the 
l)abe  in  the  mother's  arms,  they  are  seen  climbing  grace- 
fully from  the  turret  to  the  pinnacle,  grinning  and  chat- 
tering in  fear  or  in  anger,  occasional!}^  leaping  to  the 
ground  to  scramble  for  a  few  handfuls  of  parched  corn 
thrown  to  them  by  the  devotees.  Dangerous  neighbors 
they  must  be  in  such  a  crowded  neighborhood;  but  the 
Hindoos  venerate  the  ape,  and  their  sacred  character  pro- 
tects them  from  all  molestation. 

On  leaving  the  Monkey  Temple  we  are  driven  to 
the  river-bank  of  the  Gano;es,  and  conducted  throucrh 
some  of  the  principal  palaces.  Ascending  a  flat  roof, 
several  charts  are  seen  of  the  heavens,  engraved  on  stone, 
and  some  of  the  instruments  formerly  used  in  astronomi- 
cal observations,  a  few  of  which  are  of  gigantic  size,  but 
are  fast  falling  to  decay.  The  mural  quadrant,  for  taking 
the  sun's  altitude,  consists  of  a  wall  eleven  feet  hio^h  and 
nine  feet  thick;  here  is  another  instrument  for  ascertain- 
ing the  declination  and  distance  from  the  meridian  of 
any  planet  or  stai-,  occupying  a  space  thirty-six  feet  in 


226  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

length  by  five  in  brenflth ;  and  the  remains  of  other  ap- 
pliances of  a  similar  character  are  seen  here.  They  were 
doubtless  constructed  over  a  thousand  years  ago. 

On  the  bank  of  the  river,  connected  with  one  temple,, 
is  a  large  well,  some  twenty  feet  in  depth.  The  stencli 
of  the  water  was  as  bad  as  that  from  a  common  sewer^ 
occasioned  by  tlie  devotees  throwing  in  their  offerings, 
consistino;  of  small  bunches  of  flowers  and  strains  of 
rice ;  and  yet,  as  fast  as  it  could  l^e  dipped  up  with 
buckets,  the  miserable  creatures  drank  it  as  holy  water. 
Here  we  saw  1)ull- worship,  peacock-worship,  and  other 
modes  of  worship  too  obscene  for  description,  and  every 
morning  the  place  is  thronged  with  devotees. 

We  enter  a  boat  and  sail  along  the  river-front,  where 
we  witnessed  the  washing  and  head-shaving  of  dead 
bodies,  and  their  transference  to  the  funeral-piles.  For 
a  lono;  distance  down  the  banks  of  the  river  were  varied 
crowds  of  bathers,  monster  idols,  ghauts,  and  funerah 
pyres — these  vast  crowds  all  seeking  salvation  from  the 
waters  of  the  Gano;es. 

We  progress  slowly  along  with  our  boat  till  we 
come  to  the  large  mosque  with  its  two  lofty  minarets 
towering  up  to  a  great  height.  Here  we  discharge  our 
boat,  and  return  to  the  carriage  through  the  busy  crowd 
by  land.  Where  this  mosque  is  situated  the  river-bank 
is  at  least  eighty  feet  high  from  the  water's  edge.  We 
ascend  to  the  roof  by  upward  of  a  hundred  ste|)s,  worn 
into  deep  hollows  by  the  feet  of  the  multitude  who  are 
continually  passing  up  and  down.  From  here  we  ob- 
tained a  magnificent  view  of  the  city  and  surrounding 


BENARES.  22  T 

country,  and  the  Ganges  winding  its  silver-like  thread 
throuo'h  tlie  valle\  till  lost  in  the  distance.  We  ad- 
mired  the  minarets  for  their  simplicity  and  boldness ; 
they  have  an  altitude  of  one  hundred  and  forty-seven 
feet. 

Passino;  throus-h  the  crowd  we  next  arrive  at  the 
temple  of  Shiva,  commonly  known  as  the  Golden  Tem- 
ple. This  is  tlie  reigning  deity  of  Benares,  and  receives 
more  adoration  than  any  other  idol,  and  yet  there  is  noth- 
ing very  elaborate  about  it,  situated  in  a  narrow  and  the 
most  crowded  street  in  the  city ;  the  throng  was  really 
so  dense,  we  thought  that  it  would  be  impossible  to 
enter.  It  is  erected  back  from  the  street  in  the  centre 
of  a  little  inclosure,  consisting  of  three  small  rooms, 
raised  on  a  stone  platform,  and  crowned  with  three 
domes,  two  of  which  are  said  to  be  overlaid  with  gold, 
from  which  it  derived  its  name  l)y  the  Europeans  as  the 
Golden  Temple.  In  each  room  there  is  a  large  holy 
stone,  and  the  worship  consists  in  throwing  rice,  flowers, 
and  money,  upon  these  stones.  There  is  an  inner  temjile 
in  which  only  the  priests  are  allowed  to  enter;  within 
the  inclosure  adjacent  to  the  temple  is  what  is  called  the 
Well  of  Knowledge,  into  which  flowers  and  grains  of 
rice  are  thrown  as  ofl:eriugs  to  the  gods,  and  the  water  is 
drawn  and  drunk  by  the  numerous  devotees.  This  well 
is  surrounded  by  a  handsome  colonnade  of  forty  pillars. 
Immediately  to  the  east  of  the  well  is  the  stone  figure  of 
a  large  bull,  about  seven  feet  high,  dedicated  to  one  of 
their  principal  gods. 

The  entire  surroundings  are  rich  in  temples  of  elabo- 


228  AROUXD    THE    WORLD. 

rate  workmanship,  among  which  the  most  worthy  of  no- 
tice is  one  to  Anpurana,  a  goddess  who  is  supposed  to 
save  from  huno-er;  hence  it  is  always  thronged  l^v  beo-- 
gars.  Here  is  also  one  dedicated  to  the  sun,  one  to  the 
planet  Saturn,  and,  I  think,  there  is  another  to  the  moon. 
Not  far  from  these  temples  is  a  famous  well  called  Kal 
Kup,  or  the  Well  of  Fate.  Over  the  framework  cover- 
ing the  well  is  a  square  hole,  so  arranged  in  relation  to 
the  sun  that  at  twelve  o'clock  its  rays,  passing  through 
the  hole,  strike  upon  the  water  below,  indicating  mid- 
day, and  at  this  hour  it  is  crowded  by  those  wishing  to 
search  into  the  secrets  of  the  future. 

In  returning  to  the  hotel  we  pass  by  the  Queen's  Col- 
lege, where  some  three  hundred  and  fifty  native  youths 
are  instructed  in  principles  quite  the  opposite  to  those 
inculcated  in  the  idolatrous  scenes  just  before  witnessed. 
It  is  a  fine  building,  in  the  Gothic  style,  containing  large 
rooms,  a  liljrary  stored  with  a  rare  collection  of  Oriental 
manuscripts,  and  an  Indian  museum.  The  grounds  of 
the  college  are  very  extensive,  and  heautifully  laid  out. 

January  Vdth. — This  afternoon  we  are  accompanied 
by  an  experienced  guide  and  ride  out  into  the  country, 
some  four  or  five  miles  distant,  to  Sarnath.  The  im- 
mense ruins  of  Sarnath  are  of  great  interest.  Here  are 
two  towers,  distant  about  twenty-five  hundred  feet  from 
each  other.  The  Hindoos  have  a  tradition  that  a  man, 
by  the  name  of  Lorik,  was  accustomed  to  jump  in  a 
single  leap  from  tower  to  tower ;  he  is  rej^uted  to  have 
resided  in  the  vicinity  of  these  towers,  and  was  the 
owner  of  a  laro;e  number  of  milch-cows,  and  after  he 


BENARES.  229 

milked  tlie  cows  in  the  morning,  with  the  milk  in  hand, 
he  gave  one  leap  from  the  top,  jumping  from  one  tower 
to  the  other  withont  spilling  the  milk.  Both  of  the 
tovv^ers  are  in  ruins,  and  only  enough  is  left  to  testify  to 
their  great  mao;nitu(le.  The  first  tower  which  we  ap- 
proached was  constructed  on  a  high  mound  ;  according 
to  a  recent  survey  made,  it  is  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
eight  feet  above  the  general  level  of  the  country,  and  is 
constructed  entirely  of  brickwork.  The  second  is  also 
of  brick,  faced  with  elaborately  -  cut  stone,  and  with 
images  in  some  of  the  niches :  the  faces  are  more  or  less 
richly  decorated  with  a  profusion  of  flowering  foliage, 
the  south  face  being  altogether  plain. 

The  remains  of  these  laroe  Buddhist  establishments 
cover  some  ten  or  twelve  acres,  and  the  parts  of  the 
towers  remaininc:  would  have  been  torn  down  Ions;  ao;o, 
but  the  brick  and  mortar  are  so  firmlv  combined  that 
they  are  like  one  perfect  mass  of  stone,  and  the  only  way 
by  which  the  great  iron  bolts  and  rods  are  taken  out  by 
the  poor  class  of  people  is  with  chisel  and  hammer. 

In  the  early  ages  this  town  was  the  cradle  of  Buddh- 
ism. Buddha,  according  to  tradition,  was  a  prince;  he 
renounced  royal  state,  wealth,  family,  fiiends,  everything, 
and  repaired  to  Sarnath ;  here  he  remained  in  seclusion 
for  Ave  years,  during  which  time  the  study  of  his  profes- 
sion continued,  and  it  resulted  in  his  conviction  that  he 
had  become  perfectly  purified.  Here  his  teachings  began 
nearly  twenty -four  hundred  years  ago ;  and,  according 
to  the  faith  of  his  disciples,  his  gospel  has  spread  all  over 
the  East,  and  it  is  to  continue  to  radiate  until  it  shall 


230  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

pervade  the  entire  eartli.  According  to  statistics,  the 
numerons  sects  of  the  religious  world  comprise  nine  hun- 
dred million  believers,  of  which  the  Buddhists  claim 
three  hundred  and  fifteen  million.  But,  according  to  the 
teachings  of  the  Bible,  we  know  that  the  gospel  of  Christ, 
the  King  of  glory,  the  divine  ruler  of  both  heaven  and 
earth,  shall  spread  from  the  rivers  to  the  uttermost  ends 
of  the  earth,  till  all,  from  the  leaf.t  to  the  greatest,  shall 
know  him. 

Dr.  Sherring  states  that  the  Hindoos  are  good  gram- 
marians but  meagre  historians,  and  the}'  possess  no  sin- 
gle record,  among  the  ten  thousand  separate  manuscript 
works  of  which  their  ancient  literature  is  said  to  be  com- 
posed, on  the  historical  correctness  of  which  one  can 
place  mucli  reliance.  Their  stories  are  so  intermingled 
with  different  events— the  web  of  the  one  is  so  inti- 
mately interwoven  with  the  woof  of  the  other,  and  the 
two  mixed  up  as  a  whole — that  the  finest  microscopic 
intellects  of  Europe,  after  patient  and  long-continued  ex- 
amination, have  been  baffled  in  the  attempt  to  discover 
which  is  fiction  and  which  is  fact.  They  have  also  more 
ways  of  spelling  the  same  words  than  any  other  people 
I  have  ever  known. 

January  ''20th. — This  morning,  as  usual,  we  ride  out 
to  the  Ganges.  On  our  approaching  the  sacred  river  we 
saw  thousands  of  j^eople,  some  going  to,  others  returning 
from,  the  bath  in  the  waters.  Here  we  saw  a  tank  on 
the  river-bank,  about  thirty-five  feet  square,  and  ten  feet 
deep ;  it  has  stone  steps  leading  to  the  water  below,  sur- 
rounded by  Brahmans,  both   men   and  women,  making 


BENARES.  231 

oftei'ings,  wliich  consisted  of  crumbs  of  bread,  rice,  small 
bunches  of  flowers,  and  leaves.  The  stench  arising  from 
the  tank  was  almost  unendurable,  and  yet  they  bathed 
in  and  even  drank  of  this  water,  believing  that  it  will 
purify  them  and  wash  away  every  sin  that  they  are 
guilty  of  According  to  tradition,  in  ancient  times  many 
devotees  sacrificed  themselves  in  this  tank,  and,  before 
doing  so,  they  solicited  from  their  idols  the  promise  that 
they  should,  in  the  next  life,  have  a  residence  in  some 
rich  man's  house  of  high  caste  ! 

In  sailing  along  the  river-front,  we  saw  great  num- 
bers of  Hindoos,  men  and  women,  bathing  in  the  Ganges, 
and  others  upon  the  banks  performing  their  religious 
ceremonies,  hoping  thus  to  wash  a^vay  their  sins;  some 
were  worshiping  the  river  itself;  others  upon  their  knees, 
with  closed  eyes  gazing  toward  the  sun,  praying  to  it, 
were  so  much  absorbed  in  their  devotions  as  apparently 
to  be  unconscious  of  the  presence  of  those  around  them. 
Every  now  and  then  we  saw  smoke  arising  on  the  river's 
edge,  caused  by  the  burning  of  the  Hindoo  dead;  we 
passed  pile  after  pile,  some  burning  and  others  making 
ready  for  the  cremation. 

The  burning  of  dead  bodies  is  the  most  loathsome 
sight  ever  witnessed.  The  funeral-pile  is  first  prepared 
by  setting  four  stakes  in  the  ground,  about  two  feet 
apart  and  four  feet  high,  and  the  wood,  consisting  of 
about  a  cart-load,  is  piled  between  the  stakes  two  feet  in 
height;  then  the  corpse  is  laid  upon  the  pile,  covered 
over  with  sandal- wood  shavings,  and  afterward  the  rest 
of  the  wood  is  placed  on,  to  the  height  of  the  stakes. 


232  AROUND    THE    WOBLD. 

At  leiigtli,  when  all  is  in  readiness,  tlie  family  of  the 
deceased,  headed  by  the  priest,  marches  in  procession 
seven  times  around  the  funeral-pile,  toi-ches  in  hand  ;  on 
the  last  round  the  priest  lights  up  the  pile,  and  his  fol- 
lowers also  apply  their  torches  in  turn.  In  a  few 
moments  the  sacred  pile  is  in  a  complete  blaze^  and 
continues  to  burn  until  the  whole  mass  is  reduced  to 
ashes,  when  the  dust  is  carefully  collected  by  the  mourn- 
ers and  thrown  into  the  Gauges.  After  this  ceremony 
the  priest  is  not  allowed  to  touch  any  human  being  for 
the  space  of  fourteen  days,  lest  lie  should  be  defiled.  It 
is  considered  a  great  crime  unless  the  fire  to  light  up 
the  funeral-pile  is  taken  from  the  house  of  some  Sudras, 
the  lowest  and  most  despised  caste  in  India — a  casre 
which,  if  one  of  its  members  should  be  touched,  contami- 
nates the  party  touching  him,  who  thus  forfeits  his  caste, 
and  becomes  a  vagabond  upon  the  face  of  the  earth. 
The  Sudras  caste,  knowing  that  the  Bralmians  dare  not 
burn  their  dead  without  fire  from  their  dwellings,  often 
charge  the  rich  enormous  sums.  Shortly  before  our 
visit,  a  Hindoo  prince  had  given  one  thousand  rupees 
for  fire  to  burn  the  remains  of  some  distinguished  friend. 
Up  to  within  a  few  years,  it  was  the  custom  of  the  Hin- 
doos to  burn  the  widow  or  wife  of  the  deceased  husband 
alive  with  him  upon  the  same  funeral-pile;  but,  since 
the  English  came  into  power,  they  have  interposed  and 
put  a  stoj)  to  this  inliuman  practice. 

There  is  a  dance  practised  by  the  Brahmans,  both  in 
Japan  and  India,  called  the  devil-dance,  of  which  the 
priest  is  at  the  head,  having  his  forehead  smeared  with 


BENARES.  233 

ashes  and  streaks  of  red  paint  over  liis  face ;  he  wears 
a  high  Avhite  cap,  with  red  tassels,  and  a  long  white  rohe 
reaching  to  his  feet.     In  his  right  hand  he  holds  a  spear 
ornamented  with  bells,  that  jingle  harshly  every  time 
the  ground  is  struck  by  it.     As  the  band  of  tomtoms 
strike  up,  the  Brahman  priest  makes  his  appearance  from 
behind  the  curtain  upon  the  stage,  when  the  devotees 
show  him  the  offerings  they  intend  to  present,  but  he 
appears   wholly    unconscious ;    then    the   tomtoms    are 
beaten  faster  and  louder,  when  he  exclaims  in  a  loud 
voice,  "  I  am  god,  the  only  true  god ! "     Then  the  de- 
luded devotees  crowd  around  the  priest  and  offer  obla- 
tions,  soliciting  answers  to   their   questions  as  to  the 
future.      During  the  performance,  which  continues  for 
an  hour  or  more,  the  priest  cuts  and  hacks  himself  with 
a  sharp  instrument  until  completely  covered  with  blood. 
When  all  is  over  he  casts  off  his  bloody  garments,  picks 
up  the  sacrifices,  and  walks  off  quietly  to  the  fountain 
of  water  to  wash  the  donors'  sins  away.     The*  caste  of 
Brahman s  believe  that  this  mode  of  worship  will  drive 
away  malignant  spirits,  and  inform  them  of  future  events. 
There  are  many   other  peculiar  modes   of  worship 
practised  by  the  Brahmans  in   their  temples,   such   as 
beating  on  drums  and  blowing  of  horns,  to  call  the  gods 
out.     Some  have  a  cylinder  filled  with  something  which, 
when  turned,  makes  a  loud  noise ;  when  the  gods  an- 
swer, they  join  in  singing  and  clapping  of  hands.    There 
is  one  temple  where  a  man  stands  to  guard  the  door,  and 
to  put  a  fan  into  the  hands  of  those  who  were  desirous 
of  making  offerings  to  the  idol,  of  which  fanning  is  one ; 

16 


234  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

a  second  man  rings  a  ))ell  to  awake.i  the  idol,  and  a 
third  man  i)laces  the  sacrificial  dishes  before  the  idol 
and  deals  out  the  food;  a  fourth  holds  up  a  looking- 
glass  to  the  idol,  while  the  fifth  beats  a  drum  or  blows 
a  horn  for  its  amusement ;  the  sixth  acts  the  part  of 
treasurer,  and  the  seventh  washes  and  cleans  the  dishes 
used  in  the  temple.  In  some  temj)les  there  are  those 
who  prepare  the  idol's  bed,  and  present  a  toothpick 
after  it  is  supposed  to  have  taken  its  meals.  Such  is 
the  idolatrous  and  foolish  superstition  of  the  deluded 
Brahmans. 

Here  is  a  temple  called  Bhaironath,  protected  by  a 
large  idol  in  the  shape  of  a  dog.  The  confectioners  near 
the  temple  keep  a  good  stock  of  images  of  the  dog  made 
of  sugar,  which  are  offered  to  the  idol.  A  Brahman  is 
stationed  here  whose  duty  it  is  to  protect  persons  from 
the  wicked  influences  of  evil  spirits ;  this  is  done  by  a 
peacock's  feather,  which  he  waves  over  them.  A  stran- 
ger, seeing  it,  is  under  the  impression  that  the  Brahman 
is  employed  to  drive  away  flies,  which  are  said  to  fill  the 
temple  during  the  hot  season,  being  attracted  by  the 
small  sugar  images.  On  entering  this  temple,  a  Brah- 
man is  seen  standing  at  the  door,  holding  in  his  hand  a 
cup  made  out  of  cocoanut-shell,  in  which  he  expects  all 
visitors  to  drop  their  offerings. 

Sankata  Devi  is  a  temple  which  is  visited  principally 
by  barren  women,  and  their  one  prayer  is  that  the  god- 
dess will  bestow  on  them  the  gift  of  children.  There  is 
a  story  to  the  effect  that  one  poor  woman,  after  offering 
flowers,  began  beating  her  head  on  the  floor,  and  with 


BENARES.  235 

tears  was  supplicating  the  goddess  to  grant  her  a  child, 
saying:  "  I  have  wealth,  so  that  I  can  feed  daily  a  thou- 
sand people,  but  I  am  still  unhappy  and  most  miserable, 
and  have  no  one  to  leave  my  wealth  to.  Is  it  your  wish 
when  I  die  that  it  shall  be  left  to  strangers?  Oh,  give 
me  only  one  child,  and  I  will  be  your  slave  for  life ! 
Even  a  daughter  will  be  preferable  to  none  at  all !  If 
you  will  but  grant  my  request,  I  vow  to  feed  daily  one 
hundred  Brahmans  in  this  temple  for  one  year !  " 

I  have  only  enumerated  a  few  of  the  most  prominent 
temples  in  the  city  of  Benares ;  to  speak  of  them  all 
would  require  months  of  examination,  and  fill  volumes 
in  description.  Shiiues  and  temples  are  here  more  nu- 
merous than  in  any  other  city  in  the  world. 

The  Buddhist  priests  live  principally  in  and  around 
their  temples,  and  are  seldom  seen  in  the  streets.  They 
are  readily  known  by  their  large  yellow  garments,  which 
they  wear  wrapped  around  the  body,  by  being  bare- 
footed, and  with  the  h:ur  shaved  close  to  the  head. 
They  restrain  their  feelings  from  all  attachment  to  the 
fair  sex,  and  no  woman  dare  venture  to  approach  a 
priest  unless  to  perform  some  religious  duty,  or  to  pre- 
sent some  pious  offering.  According  to  our  informants, 
the  principle  of  religious  homage  among  the  Buddhists 
is  that  God,  or  his  substitute,  is  in  a  temple,  whom  they 
worship  through  idols,  believing  that  idols  shall  stand 
between  God  and  man.  Instead  of  calling  u23on  God 
dii'ectly,  they  supplicate  the  idols,  through  which  they 
claim  to  receive  answers  to  prayer.  Their  opposition 
to  the  destruction  of  animal  life,  theft,  lying,  adultery, 


236  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

and  drinking  ardent  spirits,  is  a  good  qnalification  ;  and 
if  tliey  only  looked  to  God,  instead  of  worshipping 
their  idols,  they  would  be  as  devout  a  race  as  any  on 
the  earth. 

During  our  stay  in  Benares,  every  day  regularly  some 
three  or  four  Brahmans  assembled  in  front  of  the  hotel, 
exhibiting  snakes  of  the  most  deadly  character.  They 
would  coil  them  round  their  necks,  and  even  carry  them 
in  their  bosoms.  The  reptiles  were  trained  in  such  a 
manner  that  they  would  make  a  leap ;  by  speaking  to 
them  they  would  raise  or  put  down  their  heads,  and  the 
Brahmans  could  charm  the  snakes  in  any  way  they  seem- 
ingly wished. 

From  actual  statistics  it  has  been  estimated  that  in 
all  India  there  are  from  twenty  to  thirty  thousand  deaths 
from  poisonous  serpents  every  year !  Snakes  live  and 
multiply  not  only  in  the  jungles  and  open  country,  but 
in  villages  and  cities.  They  often  make  their  homes  in 
the  thatch  of  dwellings,  and  drop  down  from  the  rafters 
and  lurk  about  the  kitchen-utensils ;  and  sometimes  are 
found  in  the  parlors,  and  secrete  themselves  in  the  beds. 
I  listened  to  many  thrilling  narratives  of  adventures  with 
these  unwelcome  visitors.  I  had  heard  of  these  danger- 
ous reptiles  before  entering  India ;  so,  on  retiring  for  the 
nio-ht,  I  usually  made  a  diligent  search  through  the  bed- 
chamber, and  overhauled  the  sheets  upon  the  bedstead^ 
in  order  to  guard  against  the  presence  of  some  hidden 
reptile.  Among  the  most  dangerous  and  deadly  is  the 
hooded  cobra,  which  often  attains  the  length  of  ten  feet 
or  more.     In  the  south  of  India  snakes  have  often  been 


BENARES.  237 

captured  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  in  length.  A  gen- 
tleman traveling;:  with  us  in  the  cars  said  that  last  sum- 
mer  he  captured  a  cobra  of  large  size  in  his  bed,  as  lie 
was  about  to  retire  for  the  nio-ht. 

During  tlie  winter  months  the  snakes  of  India  remain 
in  holes,  and  only  come  out  during  the  wet  weather  of 
the  summer  months,  and  are  considered  to  be  the  greatest 
of  all  plagues  that  have  ever  been  in  the  country. 

We  visited  tlie  Maliarajali  Palace,  belonging  to  a  dis- 
tinguished Indian  prince,  wlio  keeps  three  hundred  ser- 
vants and  as  many  horses,  and  nine  elephants.  The 
prince  was  not  at  home,  but  his  house  is  always  open  to 
European  and  American  tourists ;  so  the  servants  showed 
us  through  the  numerous  apartments,  which  were  ele- 
gantly furnished,  and  the  walls  covered  with  valuable 
ancient  paintings. 

We  also  visited  the  private  residence  of  Baboo  Go- 
kool,  who  gave  us  a  cordial  welcome.  z\inong  other 
things,  he  said  that  he  was  most  hap2:)y  to  meet  people 
from  the  far  West.  He  had  read  our  country's  history 
in  his  youth,  and  lielieved  us  to  be  a  great  people.  Be- 
fore leavino^,  he  showed  us  throuo-h  a  room  filled  mth 
curious  things — weapons  of  war,  and  a  large  variety  of 
gold,  silver,  and  copper  coins,  which  were  in  use  some 
two  or  three  thousand  years  ago,  and  precious  stones 
which  he  had  collected  from  time  to  time  in  different 
parts  of  India.  He  saw  that  we  admire<i  the  stones,  and, 
opening  the  case,  requested  each  of  our  party  to  select 
one  of  our  choice.  We  offere;!  to  pay,  by  presenting 
money,  which  he  refused  to  take,  saying  that  he  was 


238  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

only  too  liappy  to  give.  It  is  said  that  the  rajaLs  of 
India  are  very  benevolent,  and  particnlarly  so  to  those 
whom  they  fancy. 

We  also  visited  one  of  the  principal  warehouses, 
where  were  manufactured  and  kept  for  sale  the  most 
costly  and  elegant  brocade  fabrics  in  the  w^orld.  They 
are  worn  by  the  native  j^rinces,  baboos,  and  rajahs; 
they  are  formed  of  silk  and  the  purest  of  gold,  woven 
in  patterns  five  yards  long  and  one  yard  wide.  A  pat- 
tern never  costs  less  than  three  hundred  dollars,  and 
thence  upward  to  six  or  seven  hundred.  The  merchants 
took  several  pieces  out  of  the  cases  for  our  inspection, 
at  the  same  time  requesting  us  to  register  our  names  as 
purchasers,  but  there  is  very  little  of  this  costly  fabric 
sold  to  tourists.  The  merchants  in  the  East  are  amiable 
and  everywhere  polite. 

We  saw  a  first-class  wedding  pass  through  the  city, 
marching  in  procession,  which  reached  a  long  distance, 
and  was  accompanied  by  two  bands  of  music.  The'  pro- 
cession consisted  of  horses  exquisitely  decorated  with 
scarlet  blankets  trimmed  with  gold  and  silver  lace,  and 
a  profusion  of  colored  ribbons,  led  by  men  dressed  in 
rich  uniforms.  The  groom  rode  in  the  rear  upon  horse- 
back,  covered  with  a  rich  canopy,  bordered  by  a  crimson 
veil  trimmed  with  gold  fringe.  After  the  display  they 
marched  to  the  bride's  residence. 

According  to  the  custom  of  the  country,  betrothals 
are  made  by  a  class  of  persons  outside  of  the  families, 
who  are  supposed  to  be  well  acquainted  with  the  caste 
and  circumstances  of  the  parties,  without  the  knowledge 


BEXARES.  239 

of  tlie  yoniig  man  and  woman  who  are  tc)  V)e  join(d  to- 
gether for  life.  This  is  done  when  the  parties  are  mere 
infants,  1>y  the  pai-ents  entering  into  -a  contract  that  their 
chiklren  shall  be  married  iij^on  attaining  a  certain  age. 
After  this  has  been  done,  it  is  impossible  to  break  the 
engagement,  unless  one  or  both  of  them  should  die. 
From  the  time  of  the  engagement  till  the  marriage,  the 
intended  bride  is  required  to  maintain  the  strictest  seclu- 
sion. Whenever  friends  call  upon  her  parents,  she  is 
expected  to  retire ;  she  must  be  closely  veiled  when 
ofoino;  into  the  streets,  and  she  is  debarred  from  all  social 
intercourse *with  those  of  her  sex  with  w^hom  she  for- 
merly associated. 

The  office  of  match-maker  is  considered  honorable, 
and  both  men  and  women  are  employed  to  conduct  nup- 
tial negotiations,  great  confidence  being  reposed  in  their 
judgment.  By  some  castes  the  selection  and  contracts 
are  made  by  the  parents,  and  in  all  cases  the  boy  and 
o;irl  have  no  voice  in  the  en2:a2i:ement  to  be  made.  The 
presents  given  at  the  betrothal  are  said  to  be  very  valu- 
able, consisting  of  silks,  rice,  cloth,  fruits,  and  sometimes 
money. 

Here,  as  in  other  countries,  there  is  a  great  contrast 
between  a  wedding  and  a  funeral.  While  the  Hindoos 
burn  the  dead  body,  their  next-door  neighbors,  the  Chi- 
nese, bury  the  dead.  We  saw  a  Chinese  funeral  proces- 
sion pass  through  the  streets  of  Penang.  The  corpse  was 
borne  upon  long  poles,  resting  upon  the  shoulders  of 
twenty-six  men.  The  coffin  is  constructed  of  thick 
plank,  perfectly  tight  and  strong,  which  is  laid  upon  a 


240  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

shelf  iu  some  temple  for  several  years.  Those  who  are 
rich  have  a  great  part  of  their  wealth,  or  treasure,  put 
in  the  coffin  with  the  body,  and  watched  by  a  guard 
both  night  and  day  till  the  years  of  probation  have  ex- 
pired. At  length  the  coffin  is  removed  to  the  family 
field,  and  covered  over  with  a  large  mound  of  earth  re- 
semblins:  a  hus^e  hav-stack. 


CHAPTEE   XXIII. 


LUCKTv^OW    AKD    CAWNPORE. 


January  ^Ofh. — This  afternoon  at  two  o'clock  we 
leave  Benares,  the  lioly  city  of  the  Hindoos,  en  route  for 
Delhi,  we  having  at  Calcutta  paid  for  a  through-ticket 
to  that  city,  with  the  j)rivilege  of  stopping  on  the  road 
wherever  we  desired,  not  to  exceed  sixty  days  from  the 
date  of  issue.  We  pass  through  endless  fields  of  rice, 
wheat,  and  millet,  orchards  of  bananas,  tamarinds,  and 
mangoes,  the  latter  tree  just  now  in  bloom,  filling  the 
^ir  with  a  perfume  sweet  as  that  of  the  acacia.  In  other 
fields  are  large  herds  of  cattle,  flocks  of  sheep,  and  goats. 
Occasionally  we  passed  by  groups  of  slender  men  and 
children  upon  the  roadside.  The  few  women  w^hom  w'e 
saw  were  gayly  attired,  with  a  profusion  of  silver  orna- 
ments, ear-rings,  nose-rings,  and  anklets.  The  surround- 
ings were  so  very  pleasant  that  we  regretted  when  night- 
fall came  u^dou  us. 

January  21.s/. — This  morning  at  five  o'clock  we  ar- 
rive in  the  city  of  Lucknow,  and  put  up  at  the  Imperial 
Hotel,  board  five  rupees  a  day,  and  have  good  entertain^ 
ment.  Lucknow  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  Goomtee,  which  is  spanned  by  an  iron  bridge. 
Previous  to  the  Sepoy  mutiny,  Lucknow  was  a  purely 


242  AROUXD    THE   WORLD. 

Oriental  city  of  great  extent  and  picturesque  appearance. 
An  intelligent  writer,  wlio  visited  Lucknow  in  1856, 
thus  describes  tlie  view  from  the  river:  "The  city,  which 
extends  for  several  miles  along  the  river-bank,  seemed 
one  mass  of  majestic  and  beautiful  buildings  of  dazzling 
whiteness,  crowned  with  domes  of  burnished  gold,  while 
scores  of  minarets  were  looming  up  in  every  direction ; 
the  wdiole  picture  was  like  a  dream  of  fairy-land ;  but 
during  the  mutiny  the  city  was  bombarded  by  the  Eng- 
lish troops  and  greatly  injured,  and  the  general  features^ 
of  the  city  have  been  much  altered." 

The  English  settlement  of  Lucknow  is  very  prettily 
built.  The  buildings  are  of  brick,  covered  with  stucco, 
giving  them  the  appearance  of  white  marble,  with  beau- 
tiful gardens  and  macadamized  roads.  The  city  itself 
contains  about  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  We 
made  the  best  of  our  time  by  visiting  some  of  the  prin- 
cipal places  of  interest  in  the  city,  some  of  which  I  will 
briefly  describe. 

The  Martiniere  is  a  peculiarly  fantastic  building  of 
every  species  of  architecture,  adorned  with  stucco  images, 
huge  lions  with  lamps  instead  of  eyes,  mandarins,  and  a 
host  of  gods  and  goddesses.  The  interior  contains  some 
handsome  apartments,  many  of  them  with  frescoed  ceil- 
ings. It  was  said  to  have  been  originally  designed  as  a 
palace  for  the  nawab;  he,  however,  died  before  it  was 
"finished,  and  left  funds  for  its  endowment  as  a  school, 
ordering  his  body  to  be  buried  under  its  floor;  but,  dur- 
ing the  rebellion,  the  mutineers  opened  his  tomb  and 
scattered  thq  remains. 


LUCKNOW   AND    C AWN  PORE.  243 

We  next  proceed  to  the  ruins  of  buildings  destroyed 
in  the  mutiny,  these  remaining  nearly  in  the  same  state 
they  were  when  they  were  left ;  and  here  for  five  months 
a  little  band  of  Christians  held  out,  with  unexampled 
courage  and  endurance,  against  hordes  of  well-armed, 
well-]3iovisioned,  and  ferocious  enemies.  All  the  build- 
ings are  in  a  terribly  shattered  state,  bearing  numerous 
marks  of  shot  and  shell,  and  every  point  has  a  sad  story 
connected  with  it.  Here  are  shown  the  remains  of  a 
portico,  in  the  fall  of  which  some  twenty  or  more  brave 
soldiers  were  buried;  here  is  shown  another  room  under- 
neath the  ground,  where  the  women  and  children  took 
refuge  from  the  hail  of  shot.  Not  far  from  this  spot  is 
the  churchyard  where  those  who  perished  during  the 
siege  were  buried ;  here  is  the  grave  of  Sir  Henry  Law- 
rence, Major  Banks,  and  many  other  English  officers  and 
soldiers.  The  church  was  nearly  leveled  to  the  ground 
durino;  the  siesce. 

We  hire  a  carriage  and  diive  out  some  few  miles  into 
the  country,  to  the  garden-house  formerly  belonging  to 
the  King  of  Oude.  In  the  garden  was  pointed  out  to 
us  the  tomb  of  Sir  Henry  Havelock,  a  plain  obelisk  with 
a  long  inscription.  The  country  roads  are  level  and 
beautifully  macadamized. 

The  King  of  Oude,  whose  possessions  were  the  last 
to  be  seized  by  the  East  India  Company,  reigned  here 
in  great  splendor.  When  the  British  authorities  in- 
formed him  that  they  required  his  extensive  and  rich 
dominions,  and  that  he  must  lay  down  his  sceptre  and 
his  crown,  the  governor-general  23roposed  to   settle   on 


244  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

him  a  large  pension,  but  tlie  king  was  reluctant  to  I'esign 
his  authority,  and  refused  to  sign  any  deed  of  convey- 
ance. When  compelled  to  retire,  he  sent  his  queen  to 
England  to  plead  his  cause  before  Queen  Victoria ;  but 
before  she  returned  the  mutiny  of  1857  broke  out,  and 
the  kino-'s  fate  was  sealed.  He  now  resides  on  the 
Hoogly,  some  two  or  three  miles  below  Calcutta.  By 
many  this  seizure  of  the  territory  of  Oude,  and  the  sale 
of  the  personal  property  of  the  king,  are  regarded  as  the 
immediate  cause  of  the  rebellion  in  which  so  much 
property  was  destroyed  and  life  sacrificed,  not  only  in 
Lucknow,  but  in  numerous  other  places  in  India.  Luck- 
now  is  where  the  torch  of  rebellion  was  first  lighted, 
and  shortly  after  its  lurid  glare  was  seen  spreading  like 
wildfire  over  many  parts  of  the  peninsula. 

tTanuary  22<'/. — This  morning  we  resume  our  tour 
by  the  ten-o'clock  train ;  at  one  o'clock  we  sto])  at  Cawn- 
pore,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  uj^on  a  flat 
and  sandy  plain.  It  is  a  large  military  station,  and  the 
cantonments  comprise  an  area  of  ten  miles,  with  a  pojiu- 
lation  of  seventy-five  thousand,  exclusive  of  the  military 
and  the  European  residents ;  there  is,  besides,  accom- 
modation for  seven  thousand  troops.  This  was  the 
scene  of  some  of  the  most  fearful  atrocities  of  the 
mutiny  of  1857.  CaAvn23ore  has  acquired  a  melancholy 
interest  in  the  eyes  of  every  Englishman,  if  not  the  whole 
civilized  world,  and  many  tourists  stop  to  visit  the 
memorials  which  exist  of  those  events.  The  sad  story 
is  familiar  to  most  readers. 

Memorial  Garden  is  a  large  spot  of  ground  inclosed, 


LUCKNOW   AND    CAWNPORE.  245 

neatly  laid  out,  and  beautifully  kept.  On  a  raised 
mound  is  tlie  memorial  erected  over  the  well  in  whicli 
a  large  niunber  of  Christians,  chiefly  women  and  chil- 
dren, were  cast,  by  order  of  the  rebel  Nena  Sahib,  and 
left  to  die.  It  consists  of  a  raised  circular  stone  plat- 
form, on  which  is  placed  a  statue  of  a  female  draped 
figure  with  wings,  surrounded  by  a  Gothic  stone  screen 
of  beautiful  design  and  workmau ship.  At  the  foot  of 
the  mound  on  either  side  are  inclosures  coutaining  the 
tombs  of  those  who  fell  in  the  battles  fouo-ht  in  and 
around  Cawnpore  during  the  mutiny.  No  native  is  al- 
lowed, on  any  pretext  whatever,  to  enter  this  garden 
without  a  permit  from  the  authorities. 

About  a  mile  from  the  river  is  the  intrenchment 
in  which  General  Wheeler,  with  his  small  band  of 
soldiers,  and  the  Europeans  and  half-caste  residents, 
were  assembled,  and  for  twenty-one  days  held  the  city 
in  the  face  of  a  continual  fire  from  Nena's  troops.  No 
vestige  of  the  intrenchment  now  remains,  but  the  well 
into  which  the  women  and  children  were  thrown  is  still 
to  be  seen.  " 

The  chief  events  of  the  mutiny  centred  at  Cawnpore. 
This  station  was  occupied  by  Sir  Hugh  Wheeler,  with 
a  small  body  of  English  troops,  who  had  under  their 
protection  several  hundred  women  and  children,  belong- 
ing chiefly  to  the  city  and  neighborhood.  Having  no 
fortress,  they  intrenched  themselves  by  throwing  up 
earthworks  on  the  open  |  plain.  There  were  two  small 
buildings  in  the  place  which  they  occupied,  with  a  piece 
of  land  less  than  an  acre  in  size ;  there  were  nine  hun- 


246  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

dred  persons  in  all  within  this  narrow  space.  The 
Sepoys  opened  upon  them  a  murderous  fire ;  their  pro- 
visions were  falling  short ;  famine  stared  them  in  the 
face ;  and,  owing  to  the  close  confiDement  and  the  heat 
of  the  scorching  sun,  many  of  them  were  dying  from 
day  to  day,  while  some  went  raving  mad.  At  length 
the  enemy  began  to  pour  red-hot  shot  within  the  en- 
campment, which  fired  and  burned  their  buildings. 
During  this  fearful  moment  they  received  an  offer  from 
the  rebel  leader,  Nena  Sahib,  that  if  they  would  aban- 
don the  intrenchments  and  the  treasure  which  they  had 
been  guarding,  the  survivors  should  be  furnished  with 
boats  and  an  escort  to  take  them  down  the  Ganges  to 
Allahabad,  where  they  would  have  safe  quarters,  and 
be  out  of  the  reach  of  their  foes.  They  declined  this 
offer  until  the  rebel  had  signed  the  contract,  and  con- 
firmed his  promise  with  a  solemn  oath,  which  he  did. 
Finally,  conveyances  were  provided  for  taking  the  sick 
and  wounded  to  the  river,  about  a  mile  distant.  They 
were  getting  into  the  boats,  when,  by  the  order  of  Nena 
Sahib,  who  betrayed  his  trust,  a  battery  opened  upon 
them,  by  which  a  large  number  were  killed,  and  a  few 
boats  hastily  rowed  across  the  river,  but  they  were  after- 
ward captured  by  the  Sepoys,  the  men  all  killed,  and 
the  women  and  children  carried  back  to  the  camp  to 
die  a  more  cruel  death.  They  were  for  several  weeks 
incarcerated  in  a  building  scarcely  large  enough  to  con- 
tain them,  where  they  were  most  shamefully  and  brutally 
treated  by  the  Sepoy  troops.  A  rumor  having  reached 
the  rebels  that   an  English  military  force  was  on  the 


LUCKNOW   AND    OAWNPORE.  247 

march  from  Allahabad  to  rescue  the  captives,  an  order 
was  given  at  once  that  the  women  and  children  should 
be  slain,  doubtless  not  an  unwelcome  order  to  those  who 
were  suffering  a  thousand  deaths.  At  sunset,  on  the 
15th  of  July,  1857,  volleys  of  shot  were  fired  into  the 
doors  and  window^s  of  the  building,  until  all  were  sup- 
posed to  be  dead.  The  next  morning  it  was  found  that 
a  number  were  still  alive  ;  on  Ijeing  brought  out  in  a 
frantic  state,  they  either  threw  themselves  or  were 
thrown  by  the  enemy  into  a  large  well,  near  the  prison- 
house.  The  number  of  women  and  children  who  perished 
in  this  most  brutal  manner  was  nearly  two  hundred. 
The  English  army,  under  General  Havelock,  entered 
Cawnpore  the  day  after  this  fearful  massacre,  driving 
out  the  rebels  before  them ;  and  when  they  reached  the 
building  in  which  the  poor  victims  had  been  murdered, 
covered  with  blood,  locks  of  hair,  and  pieces  of  torn 
garments,  the  soldiers  were  horrified,  almost  maddened, 
by  the  fearful  sight,  and  killed  every  rebel  wdthin  tlieir 
reach. 

At  Futtehghur,  a  few  miles  farther  up  the  Ganges, 
General  Wheeler  and  his  men  were  intrenched.  This 
place  has  long  been  one  of  the  chief  stations  of  Ameri- 
can mission-work ;  all  the  mission-buildings  were  de- 
stroyed by  the  rebels,  the  foreign  residents  either  shot  or 
put  to  the  sword,  the  English  officers  being  the  first  to 
suffer.  The  survivors,  including  four  American  mission- 
ary families,  attempted  to  escape  in  boats,  hoping  to 
reach  Allahabad.  The  Americans  were  Rev.  Messrs. 
Freeman,  Campbell,  Jobnson,  and  McMullen,  witli  their 


248  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

wives  and  children,  together  with  others,  amounting  in 
all  to  one  hundred  and  thirty  persons.  While  floating^ 
down  the  Ganges  with  a  swift  current,  they  were  con- 
stantly in  fear  of  the  natives;  twice  they  were  fired  on, 
and  a  lady  and  child  killed.  On  the  fourth  day  out,  the 
boats  ran  aground  upon  a  sand-bar.  Not  being  able 
to  get  them  oif,  the  whole  party  went  on  shore  and 
concealed  themselves  in  the  jungles  or  long  grass,  in 
constant  fear  of  being  captured  by  the  enemy,  and  with 
little  hope  of  escaj)e.  Here  they  engaged  in  prayer, 
making  preparation  for  death,  the  missionaries  earnestly 
exhorting  them  to  put  their  trust  in  Him  who  would 
bring  salvation  even  in  death.  On  the  following  day 
they  were  discovered  by  a  body  of  Sepoys,  who  made 
them  prisoners,  and  took  them  to  Cawnpore.  They 
were  tied  together  with  ropes,  and  compelled  to  take  up 
their  march  on  foot ;  they  being  nearly  exhausted  with 
long  fasting  and  anxiety  of  mind,  as  night  came  on  they 
were  allowed  to  lie  down  upon  the  ground,  in  the  open 
air,  the  Sepoys  keeping  guard  over  tliem  to  prevent 
their  escape.  Early  the  next  morning  they  were  marched 
into  Cawnpore,  before  Nena  Sahib,  who  instantly  or- 
dered them  to  be  drawn  up  in  line  on  the  parade-ground, 
where  they  were  shot  down.  The  record  of  these  ter- 
rible scenes  was  derived  from  four  native  Christians, 
who  were  the  only  survivors. 

On  leaving  Cawnpore  we  go  to  Agra,  one  hundred  and 
forty  miles  distant.  On  our  arrival  in  this  ancient  city 
at  midnight,  we  are  driven  from  hotel  to  hotel,  all  over- 
filled ;  finally,  we   succeed  in  getting  into  the  Harrison 


^LUCENOW  AND    CAWNPORE.  949 

Hotel,  with  the  express  understandiiig  that  we  shall 
vacate  our  rooms  on  the  arrival  of  his  royal  highness  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  for  the  rooms  had  all  been  engaged 
ahead.  Accordingly,  we  were  very  glad  to  agree  to  this 
j)roposition. 
17 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


AGRA. 


January  2Sd. — The  city  of  Agra  is  beautifully  situ-- 
ated  on  the  banks  of  the  Jumna,  and  was  formerly  a. 
walled  town,  with  sixteen  gates ;  portions  of  the  walls, 
and  the  ruins  of  five  gates  are  still  to  be  seen.  Its  cir- 
cumference within  the  walls  is  estimated  to  be  about 
nine  square  miles.  Agra  was,  until  within  the  last  few 
years,  the  seat  of  the  Government  of  the  Northwestern 
Provinces,  which  has  since  been  transferred  to  Alla- 
habad. The  civil  station  and  the  English  military  can- 
tonments occupy  a  large  space  of  ground  not  far  distant 
from  the  ancient  town. 

The  fortress  is  an  immense  structure,  of  irregular 
form,  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circumference,  situated  on  the 
river-front,  and  contains  the  j)alace.  Its  massive  walls 
on  the  side  next  to  the  river  are  sixty  feet  in  height. 
From  the  to23  we  obtained  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
river,  city,  and  country.  The  entire  structure  is  sur- 
rounded by  numerous  turrets,  and  a  moat,  thirty  feet 
wide,  paved  Avith  stone.  We  entered  by  the  north  gate- 
way, an  imposing  structure,  flanked  by  two  enormous 
towers,  continued  inward  by  a  range  of  buildings  show- 
ing a  beautiful  succession  of  alternate  niches  in  the  walls^ 
and  small  arched  openings  covered  with  carvings  and 


EXTERIOR     OF    THE     FORT. 


p.  250. 


AGHA.  251 

mosaic- work.  From  tliis  gate  through  wliicli  we  ride 
into  the  inclosure,  a  paved-way  ascent  leads  to  the  noble 
court-yard,  five  hundred  feet  by  three  hundred  and 
seventy,  surrounded  by  arcades.  On  the  one  side  we 
entered  the  judgment-seat  of  Akbar,  a  si)lendid  liall, 
one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  long  by  sixty  broad.  It 
is  an  open  portico,  the  roof  resting  on  three  row^s  of 
pillars,  with  circular  ceilings.  The  alcove  is  in  the 
centre  of  the  hall,  where  Akbar  sat  to  pronounce  judg- 
ment. This  alcove  is  a  pavilion  of  white  marble,  beau- 
tifully carved  in  recesses,  containing  three  sculptured 
marl)le  chairs  inlaid  with  mosaics.  A  door  back  of  the 
throne  leads  to  the  private  hall  of  audience.  It  consists 
of  an  oblong  room  of  w^hite  marble  most  beautifully 
carved,  and  inlaid  with  precious  stones ;  many  of  them, 
however,  have  been  taken  out,  either  by  the  multitude 
of  visitors  or  the  natives  themselves.  The  adjoining 
room  is  an  immense  court,  two  hundred  and  thirtv-five 
feet  by  seventy,  formerly  the  sitting-room  for  the  ladies. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  colonnade  which  they  were  deco- 
rating with  evergreens,  flowers,  lanterns,  and  flags,  in 
whicli  to  give  a  ball  to  the  Prince  of  Wales  on  his 
arrival  in  the  city. 

This  magnificent  fortification  and  palace  combined 
was  built  by  the  grandson  of  Akbar  I.  This  emperor 
gave  a  festival  on  its  completion,  which,  according  to 
tradition,  cost  over  a  million  dollars,  and  although  he 
expended  hundreds  of  millions  upon  his  army,  he  had 
in  his  treasury  when  he  died  more  than  a  hundred 
million    dollars  of  coined   money,  gold   and   silver,  be- 


252  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

sides  a  large  accuniulatioii  of  valuable  jewels  and  pre- 
cious stones. 

Near  tlie  judgment-liall,  just  described,  stands  the 
Pearl  Mosque,  a  beautiful  specimen  of  architecture  of 
the  finest  white  marble,  the  interior  exquisitely  carved 
and  inlaid  with  precious  stones,  chaste  and  simple,  but 
beautiful  beyond  description.  It  can  be  comj^ared  to  no 
other  edifice  that  I  have  ever  seen  ;  to  the  eye  it  is 
absolutely  perfect.  An  insciiption  upon  a  marble  slab 
represents  this  mosque  to  have  been  constructed  by 
Shah  Jehan  in  the  year  1656.  It  occupies  one  side  of 
a  court  one  hundred  feet  square,  paved  with  white- 
marl  )le  blocks,  and  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  marble 
cloister  elegantly  carved  in  panels. 

Among  the  wonders  of  the  palace  are  curious  under- 
ground passages,  where  the  ladies  are  said  to  have  played 
hid e-ancl -seek  to  amuse  the  emperor.  One  of  these  is 
thought  to  communicate  with  the  Taj  Mahal,  and  also 
an  old  house  in  ruins  in  the  cantonment.  At  the  end 
of  one  of  these  passages  is  a  deep  well,  said  to  have  been 
used  to  put  the  unfaithful  ones  in  who  were  sentenced 
to  death.  Two  soldiers,  some  years  ago,  fell  down  this 
well,  and  were  either  killed  by  the  fall  or  starved  to 
death,  as  their  bodies  were  not  found  until  several  days 
afterward ;  the  authorities  after  this  gave  orders  to  have 
the  passage  bricked  up. 

From  the  fort  we  drive  to  the  Taj  Mahal,  about  a 
mile  distant,  over  a  good  road.  We  enter  first  the  outer 
court,  an  oblong  inclosure  about  four  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  depth,  surrounded  by   arches,  and  having  four 


AGRA.  253 

gateways.  The  principal  gateway  led  iis  into  the  grand 
inclosure,  which  is  beautifully  laid  out  with  stately  trees, 
shrubs,  flower-beds,  and  iish-ponds,  and  is  kept  in  order 
by  the  Government.  The  Taj  Mahal  is  raised  on  a  plat- 
form of  red  sandstone,  measuring  nine  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  feet  by  three  hundred  and  twenty-nine,  fronting  on 
the  river.  Two  mosques  occupied  the  court,  one  on  the 
east  and  the  other  on  the  west  end  ;  like  the  tow^ers, 
they  are  of  red  sandstone  inlaid  with  white  marble. 
The  plan  of  the  Taj  is  an  irregular  octagon  one  hundred 
and  thirty  feet  in  length  and  seventy  in  breadth,  with 
an  immense  high  ceiling  and  marble  floors. 

The  Taj  Mahal  was  erected  by  the  Emperor  Shah 
Jehan  for  his  highly-esteemed  queen,  Mumtaz  Mahal,  as 
a  tomb,  in  which  they  now  both  sleep  side  by  side.  She 
died  before  him,  in  giving  birth  to  a  child ;  it  is  stated 
that,  as  she  felt  her  life  ebbing  away,  she  sent  for  the 
emperor,  and  told  him  she  only  had  two  requests  to 
make :  flrst,  that  he  would  not  take  another  wife  and 
have  children  to  contend  with  hers;  and  the  second, 
that  he  would  build  for  her  a  handsome  tomb,  to  j^er- 
petuate  her  memory.  The  emperor,  who  was  devotedly 
attached  to  her,  at  once  set  about  complying  ^vith  her 
last  request.  The  tomb  was  commenced  immediately 
after  the  queen's  death,  in  the  year  1630,  upon  which 
twenty  thousand  workmen  were  employed  for  twenty- 
two  years  in  its  erection,  at  a  cost  of  fifteen  million 
dollars.  The  two  tombs,  which  lie  side  by  side,  are 
of  the  purest  w^hite  marble,  exquisitely  inlaid  with 
blood-stone,  agate,  carnelian,  jasper,  and  other  precious 


254 


AROUND    THE   WORLD. 


stones,  and  suiTounded  by  a  white-marble  screen,  elalv 
orately  cut  in  open-work,  interwoven  with  vines  and 
flowers  of  the  most  intricate  ornamental  designs  and 
workmanship,  the  finest  that  I  have  ever  seen  in  any 
part  of  the  world,  and  is  acknowledged  by  every  trav- 


THE    TAJ   MAHAL,    FROM    THE    FOUNTAIN. 


eler  to  be  unrivaled,  and  the  sigjlit  of'this  alone  declared 
by  many  to  be  worth  a  journey  around  the  world.  An 
Englishman  made  the  remark :  "It  is  a  sanctuary  so 
pure  and  stainless,  revealing  so  exalted  a  spirit  of  Mo- 
hammedan worship,  that  I  feel  humbled  as  a  Christian 


AGRA.  255 

in  thanking  God  that  our  own  religion  has  never  in- 
spired its  architects  to  surpass  this  noble  temple  of 
splendor  and  magnificence." 

The  two  tombs,  the  monuments  of  display,  are  placed 
in  the  grand  hall  above  the  ground-floor,  which  is  a 
lofty  rotunda,  lighted  both  from  the  dome  above,  and 
below  by  screens  of  open  marble  wrought  in  vines,  and 
ornamented  with  a  wainscoting  of  sculptured  tablets 
representing  clusters  of  white  lilies.  The  dome  of  the 
Taj  Mahal  contains  an  echo  more  sweet  and  pure  and 
prolonged  than  that  in  the  Baptistery  of  Pisa,  which  is 
the  finest  in  Europe,  and  doubtless  this  is  the  finest  in 
the  world.  A  single  musical  note,  uttered  by  the  voice 
sounds  very  loud,  and  floats  overhead  in  a  long  tone 
fading  away  so  slowly,  that  we  imagine  we  still  hear 
it  when  all  is  silence.  The  hall,  notwithstanding  the 
precious  materials  of  which  it  is  built,  and  its  elab- 
orate finish,  assumes  a  grave  and  solemn  eftect.  Some 
tourists,  on  first  entering  this  solemn  chamber,  have  been 
known  to  burst  suddenly  into  tears,  and  it  has  the  ten- 
dency to  thrill  almost  every  person  with  emotions  of 
solemnity,  if  not  to  bring  moisture  to  his  eyes. 

The  Taj  Mahal  is  surrounded  by  a  beautiful  park 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  square,  fronting  on  the  river, 
planted  with  choicest  Oriental  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers, 
with  several  fountains  scattered  through  the  park,  throw- 
ing a  profusion  of  jets  into  the  air,  which,  as  the  sun 
shone  upon  them,  represented  a  shower  of  diamonds. 
This  park  or  garden  is  surrounded  by  a  high  wall, 
and  entered  by   a  magnificent  gateway,  covered  by   a 


256  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

building  from  fifty  to  sixty  feet  in  lieiglit,  whicli  is 
admired  by  all  for  its  architectural  grandeur,  and  beauty 
of  the  carving  and  mosaic  ornamentation.  We  entered 
beneath  this  majestic  arched  gateway  on  going  to  the 
Taj  Mahal.  On  the  river-side  of  this  garden  rises  a 
terrace  of  red  sandstone  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  a 
thousand  feet  in  length,  the  walls  of  hewn  stone.  At 
the  extreme  left  of  this  terrace  stands  a  magnificent 
mosque.  It  is  the  place  of  prayer  for  the  faithful  who 
come  to  visit  tlie  tomb. 

Here  upon  the  lofty  terrace  of  sandstone  rises  an 
additional  terrace  of  pure  white  marble  of  cut  blocks 
laid  in  courses,  forming  a  building  three  hundred  feet 
square.  At  each  of  its  four  corners  there  stands  a  cir- 
cular marble  minaret  about  thirty  feet  in  diameter, 
gradually  diminishing  in  size  to  the  height  of  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet,  and  crowned  with  an  open  cupola 
commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  In  the  centre  of  this  marble  terrace,  or  rather 
in  the  building,  is  a  fountain  in  which  the  Mohammedans 
go  to  wash  and  purify  themselves  before  entering  the 
sacred  tombs  of  the  Taj  Mahal,  which  is  an  ancient  cus- 
tom connected  with  their  religion. 

Shah  Jehan  commenced  to  build  a  new  palace  for 
himself  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  from  the  Taj 
Mahal,  intending  to  connect  the  two  edifices  by  a  bridge 
spanning  the  stream,  but  the  civil  war  shortly  after 
broke  out,  which  led  to  his  fall,  and  cut  short  the  un- 
dertaking. 

To  the  northeast  of  the  city,  higher  up  the  river,  and 


AGRA.  257 

on  the  opposite  side  of  it,  is  situated  what  is  called  the 
Garden  of  Rest,  one  of  the  oldest  garden  inclosures  in 
Agra,  and  which  w^as  the  garden  palace  of  Nur  Afshan, 
and  is  laid  out  somewhat  in  the  same  style  as  the  Taj 
Mahal  gardens,  with  stone  and  marble  pavilions,  which, 
it  is  said,  are  often  occupied  by  picnic-parties  coming 
from  a  distance. 

It  is  related  that  Abkar  founded  this  city  by  build- 
ing a  splendid  residence  and  capital  out  of  his  private 
fortune,  from  what  w^as  then  a  complete  waste :  but  he 
did  not  long  occupy  it,  as  the  people  came  pouring  in  on 
account  of  its  beautiful  locality,  and  constructed  many 
costly  residences.  The  saint  found  his  devotions  inter- 
fered wdth  by  the  bustle  and  crow-ding  around  him,  but 
before  leaving  for  more  secluded  quarters  he  named  the 
city  Agra. 

January  24:th. — This  morning  ^ve  were  notified  by 
the  proprietor  of  the  hotel  that  his  royal  highness  the 
Prince  of  Wales  was  expected  to  arrive  in  the  city  some 
time  during  the  afternoon,  and  that  our  rooms,  w^hich 
w^ere  taken  on  conditions,  would  be  recj[uired ;  but,  if  we 
thought  proper  to  remain  over,  he  would  furnish  us  rooms 
in  an  old  bungalow,  in  one  corner  of  the  garden,  which 
was  covered  with  a  thatched  roof.  As  soon  as  I  saw  the 
place  it  reminded  me  of  the  snakes  of  India  falling  from 
the  rafters,  and  I  declined  the  invitation  of  our  host  to 
remove  into  it.  But,  fortunately,  we  saw  the  eighty  ele- 
phants standing  on  the  public  square  in  readiness  for 
the  royal  tourist,  covered  with  scarlet  blankets,  trimmed 
with  gold  and  silver  lace,  wdth  gilded  chairs  upon  their 


258  AROUXD    THE    WORLD. 

backs,  aud  tlieir  drivers  dressed  in  rich  uniform,  and  a 
profusion  of  flags  displayed  from  tlie  fortress,  tlie  house- 
tops, and  all  kinds  of  banners  posted  up  along  the  streets 
and  roadside. 

We  leave  by  the  half-past  ten  o'clock  train  en  route  for 
Delhi.  We  ride  fourteen  miles  to  Tundla,  and  make  a 
change  of  cars  upon  the  East  India  Railway.  Some  hills 
which  we  cross  are  without  irrioration — the  soil  looks  as 
dead  as  if  it  never  had  any  life ;  but,  where  the  water 
has  reached  the  land  by  the  system  of  irrigation,  the 
crops  are  in  a  flourishing  condition.  Deficient  in  indus- 
try as  in  energy,  the  natives  sit  on  the  ground  \\  hen  they 
use  the  sickle ;  they  have  no  modern  agricultural  im- 
provements or  machinery.  The  country  generall}"  bears 
the  same  aspect  as  the  plain  of  the  Ganges.  As  we  pass 
along  through  the  jungles,  occasionally  we  see  large  herds 
of  deer,  and  great  numbers  of  very  large  birds  of  dif- 
ferent colors  and  sj)ecies,  comparatively  tame.  As  the 
cars  hummed  along,  they  made  but  little  effort  to  fly; 
some  of  them,  as  they  stood  upon  their  feet,  stretching 
up  their  necks,  appeared  from  three  to  four  feet  liigh. 
The  birds  of  India,  on  the  whole,  are  admitted  to  be  of 
a  class  remarkable  both  for  splendor  of  color  and  grace- 
fulness of  form.  The  reason  of  o:ame  beins;  so  tame  is 
that  the  natives  use  no  fire-arms,  and,  even  if  they  did, 
to  take  life  would  be  a  direct  violation  of  tlieir  relist- 
ious  teachings. 

We  arrived  in  the  city  of  Delhi  at  six  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  and  were  conveyed  to  the  United  Service  Ho- 
tel, which  is  decidedly  the  best  hotel  in  the  city.     We 


AGRA.  259 

were  furnislied  witli  two  large  rooms  and  a  batli  for  ten 
rupees  a  day  for  us  two.  The  house  was  kept  by  a  Mo- 
hammedan, who  was  very  polite,  and  made  every  effort 
to  entertain  us  in  the  best  possible  manner. 


CHAPTEK   XXV. 


DELHI. 


January  2btli. — The  city  of  Delhi  was  built  by  Shall 
Jehaii,  about  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century. 
Leaving  Agra,  which  had  been  chiefly  constructed  by  his 
grandfather,  the  renowned  Akbar,  during  a  revolution 
in  the  countrv,  he  fled  to  Delhi  and  laid  the  foundation 
of  this  gorgeous  capital.  It  is  inclosed  by  a  w^all  of  red 
granite,  five  and  a  half  miles  in  circuit,  and  is  entered  by 
twelve  strongly -fortified  gates,  the  principal  of  which  are 
named  the  Calcutta,  Cashmere,  and  Lahore  Gates. 

Before  the  present  city  was  built,  Delhi  at  different 
periods  occupied  various  sites  within  a  circuit  of  twenty 
miles  or  more,  most  of  which  space  is  now  covered  with 
ruins.  One  monument,  the  loftiest  single  column  in  the 
world,  yet  remains  in  a  good  state  of  preservation  about 
ten  miles  outside  of  the  walled  city,  in  the  midst  of 
magnificent  ruins  of  which  there  is  no  satisfactory  ac- 
count given  in  the  records  of  India.  Old  Delhi,  as  it  is 
called,  the  last-forsaken  site,  is  in  a  tolerably  good  state 
of  preservation.  The  walls  remain,  and  much  of  the  an- 
cient city  is  standing,  but  its  public  halls  are  deserted. 
Wherever  the  former  kings  built  their  fortified  palaces, 
there  the  nobles  clustered  around,  and  the  surrounding 
inhabitants  also  followed,  both  on  account  of  trade,  and 


DELHI.  261 

tlie   better  protection   aftorded  against   wandering    and 
barbarous  tribes  of  robbers. 

One  principal  street,  called  Cliandi  Cliowk,  one  liun- 
di'ed  and  twenty  feet  wide,  divides  tlie  ancient  town  from 
the  modern.  It  is  tlie  principal  boulevard  of  Delhi, 
crowded  with  people  from  early  morning  until  night, 
and  there  is  no  sti-eet  in  India  where  there  is  more  of  an 
Asiatic  display  made.  Hundreds  of  camels  and  elephants 
may  be  seen  arriving  and  departing  with  heavy  back- 
loads  of  produce  and  merchandise.  On  either  side  of 
this  boulevard  are  shops  and  warehouses  of  the  wealthy 
merchants.  The  centre  is  a  broad  terrace  or  promenade, 
shaded  with  acacias  and  other  ornamental  trees.  This 
promenade  is  thronged  with  people  in  all  the  varied  cos- 
tumes peculiar  to  different  regions  of  Asia.  Other  parts 
of  the  city  are  equally  curious  in  their  way.  The  peo- 
ple, after  sunset,  assemble  on  the  roofs  of  their  dwellings 
to  enjoy  the  cool  of  the  evening. 

January  26f/i. — This  morning  early  we  engaged  an 
experienced  guide,  and,  in  company  with  a  party  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  started  off  upon  a  picnic-excursion 
some  eleven  miles  distant  in  the  country,  taking  luncheon 
Avith  us.  We  2:>rocured  three  large  double  teams,  rode 
as  far  as  Kootub,  where  we  left  the  gha?'ries,  and  took  a 
relay  of  bullocks  and  rode  in  ox-carts  to  Toogluckabad, 
where  luncheon  was  prepared  for  the  party  in  what  is 
called  a  dak  bungalow.  This  style  of  bungalow  is  to 
be  found  on  all  the  princi^^al  roads  in  India,  about  one 
day's  journey  distant  from  each  other,  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  pilgrims.    They  contain  no  furniture,  excepting 


262  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

a  pine  table,  a  tin  cup,  a  l)ucket,  and  a  bedstead,  and  are 
always  open  to  the  weary  and  tlio^e  wlio  are  desirous  of 
stopping  overniglit.  The  bullock-cart  in  the  interior  of 
India  is  the  principal  conveyance.  It  is  said  that  a  good 
pair  of  bullocks  will  travel  in  a  day  as  far  as  an  ordinary 
span  of  horses.  Our  bullocks  went  on  a  fast  trot,  with- 
out stopping,  the  entire  distance. 

Tooo-luckabad  was  once  a  laro-e  citv,  but  is  no^v 
covered  with  a  complete  mass  of  ruins.  The  place 
derived  its  name  from  Toogluck,  a  former  prince,  who 
ruled  over  the  people,  and  was  the  most  furious  tyrant 
that  ever  reio;ned.  The  ruins  of  the  old  fortification  are 
most  interesting.  The  fortress  stood  on  a  rocky  emi- 
nence, covering  a  very  large  space,  and  was  built  of 
massive  blocks  of  stone,  so  large  and  heavy  that  they 
must  have  been  quarried  on  the  ground.  The  thick 
walls  are  double,  with  a  ditch  between.  The  ranijiarts 
are  raised,  w4th  rooms  arched  over,  which  doubtless 
formed  the  quarters  of  the  troops  that  garrisoned  the 
fort.  The  walls  slope  inward,  similar  to  those  in  the 
Egyptian  style  of  architecture,  and  are  pierced  with 
loop-holes,  which  serve  to  give  light  and  air.  This  fort 
has  thirteen  gates,  and  there  are  three  inner  gates  to  the 
citadel,  which  contains  seven  tanks  of  water. 

January  '2ltJi. — This  forenoon  ^ve  ride  out  to  the 
palace  and  citadel,  extending  for  a  mile  along  the  river- 
front. It  is  a  mile  and  a  half  in  circuit,  and  is  inclosed 
on  three  sides  by  a  wall  of  red  stone  forty  feet  high, 
flanked  with  turrets  and  cupolas.  It  is  entered  by  two 
noble  gateways.     Entering  by  the  Lahore  Gate,  we  pass 


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DELHI.  263 

under  an  arch,  leadini>:  to  the  coiirt-var(].  In  front  of 
the  entrance,  at  the  distance  of  about  one  hundred  paces, 
is  the  Music  Hall.  Bevond  and  facino;  this  buildino;  is 
the  Hall  of  Pnl^lic  Audience.  In  the  wall  is  a  staircase 
that  leads  up  to  the  throne,  raised  about  ten  feet  from 
the  ground-floor ;  it  is  covered  by  a  canoj)y  supported 
on  four  pillars  of  white  marble,  the  whole  being  curi- 
ously inlaid  Avith  mosaic-work ;  behind  the  throne  is  a 
doorway  by  which  the  emperor  entered  from  his  private 
apartments.  The  whole  of  the  wall  behind  the  throne 
is  covered  with  mosaic  paintings,  in  precious  stones,  of 
some  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers,  of  vines,  fruits,  birds,, 
and  beasts. 

We  next  enter  the  hall  of  Dewan-i-Khas,  in  whicli 
the  emperor  gave  free  audience  to  all  who  had  any 
petition  or  cause  to  present.  It  is  a  square  marble 
pavilion,  with  an  elevated  throne  on  one  side,  supported 
by  pillars  of  stone,  the  wall  beautifully  inlaid  with  mo- 
saic flowers.  One  side  of  this  hall  opens  on  the  court ; 
the  second  side  faces  on  the  palace-gardens ;  tlie  third 
side  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  river  Jumna,  which, 
flows  near  the  palace-grounds;  while  the  fourth  rests 
upon  the  walls  of  the  zenana.  On  the  side  of  the  zenana, 
which  is  now  closed,  stood  the  famous  "  Peacock  Throne," 
which,  in  the  time  of  the  Mogul  dynasty,  was  the  ad- 
miration, if  not  the  envy,  of  the  world.  This  throne 
was  taken  away  in  1759  by  Nadir  Shah,  the  Persian 
conqueror,  by  whom  the  gold  that  came  off  the  canopy 
was  melted  down,  the  value  of  which,  together  with, 
the  precious  stones,  was  estimated  at  upward  of  ten 


264  AROUND    THE    WOULD. 

million  rupees.     The  Peacock  Throne  is  thus  described 
by  a  writer  who  \vitnessed  it : 

"  The  throne  was  six  feet  lono;  and  four  feet  broad, 
composed  of  solid  gold,  inlaid  with  precious  gems.  It 
was  surmounted  by  a  gold  can()j)y  supported  on  twelve 
pillars  of  the  same  material,  and  around  the  canoj)y  hung 
a  fringe  of  pearls ;  on  each  side  of  the  throne  stood  two 
umbrellas,  symbols  of  royalty,  covered  with  crimson 
velvet  richly  embroidered  with  gold-thread,  and  clotted 
with  pearls,  with  handles  of  solid  gold,  eight  feet  long, 
studded  with  diamonds.  The  back  of  the  throne  was 
a  representation  of  the  expanded  tail  of  a  peacock, 
the  natural  colors  of  which  were  imitated  by  sapphires, 
rubies,  emeralds,  diamonds,  and  other  l)rilliant  gems  of 
great  value,  perhaps  more  so  than  in  any  other  temple 
in  the  world,  except  Solomon's  in  the  holy  city  of  Jeru- 
salem." 

The  Persian  invader  and  tyrant.  Nadir  Sliah,  who 
not  only  stripped  the  ]3alace  of  all  its  valuables,  but  sat 
on  the  throne  just  described,  ordered  the  slaughter  of 
nearly  a  hundred  thousand  of  the  helpless  inhabitants 
of  Delhi :  men,  women,  and  children,  were  put  to  the 
sword,  filling  the  streets  and  avenues  with  their  innocent 
Mood.  Walking  over  this  marble  floor,  worn  through 
in  places  by  the  millions  of  footsteps,  once  the  scene  of 
imperial  magnificence,  and  in  which  so  many  cruel  deeds 
were  perpetrated,  we  were  forcibly  reminded  of  the  his- 
tory of  the. Jewish  war,  and  the  great  Temple  of  Jeru- 
salem, where  there  had  been  exhibited  so  many  scenes  of 
grandeur,  glory,  cruelty,  and  humiliation,  culminating  at 


DELHI.  265 

lengtli  in  final  destruction.  It  has  "been  well  said  that, 
if  there  ever  was  a  paradise  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
it  was  the  city  of  Delhi  when  she  was  in  the  height  of 
her  glory. 

Leaving  the  throne-room,  we  pass  on  to  an  adjacent 
apartment  containing  the  royal  baths,  surmounted  by 
domes — rooms  of  the  purest  white  marble,  with  inlaid 
borders,  marble  floors,  and  tanks,  and  a  fountain  in  each 
room  ;  there  is  much  simplicit}^  in  their  arrangement,  and 
yet  they  are  chaste  and  beautiful  to  behold. 

January  2Sfh. — This  morning,  conducted  by  our  ex- 
perienced guide,  who  is  conversant  with  the  history  of 
all  that  concerns  this  ancient  city,  we  ride  out  to  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  accounted  one  of  the  grandest  mosques 
in  the  East.  It  is  situated  on  a  small,  rocky  eminence, 
overlooking^  the  citv.  Its  court  is  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  square,  paved  with  red  stone,  and  entered  on 
three  sides  by  handsome  gateways,  easily  approached  by 
flights  of  steps.  In  the  centre  of  the  square  is  a  reservoir 
or  fountain  of  water.  The  edifice  is  very  imposing,  and, 
with  its  lofty  minarets,  forms  one  of  the  most  striking- 
objects  in  Delhi.  From  its  summit  we  had  a  view  be- 
fore us  of  the  entire  city  and  surroundings.  This  mosque 
is  two  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  broad,  surmounted  by  three  superb  domes 
and  two  minarets.  It  was  constructed  under  the  super- 
vision of  Shah  Jehau,  and  Avas  ten  years  in  building. 
The  interior  is  faced  with  plain  white  marble ;  that  part 
which  indicates  the  direction  of  the  shrine  of  Mecca  is  a 
handsome  niche,  adorned  with  a  profusion  of  rich  fancy- 

18 


266  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

work,  and  appears  to  have  been  cut  out  of  a  solid  j^iece 
of  white  marble  ;  at  about  equal  distances  apart,  there 
are  three  projecting  galleries. 

Leaving  the  mosque,  we  rode  through  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  with  its  battered  portals  and  crumbling  parapets, 
and  followed  the  road  leading  to  the  Flag-staff  Tower. 
On  the  way  we  passed  by  the  cemetery  in  which  is  the 
grave  of  Nicholson,  who  captured  Delhi  during  the 
mutiny  of  1857.  Immediately  above  the  cemetery  is 
Ludlow  Castle ;  some  distance  beyond,  on  the  right,  we 
passed  by  Sir  T.  Metcalf's  handsome  residence  on  the 
banks  of  the  Junma.  To  the  left,  crowning  the  height, 
we  approached  the  Flag-staff  Tower,  into  which,  during 
the  mutiny,  the  women  and  children  flocked  for  pro- 
tection. Returning,  we  passed  through  the  site  of  the 
great  battle-field.  We  also  saw  the  observatory,  now 
in  ruins.  Near  this  is  a  handsome  monument  erected  to 
the  memory  of  the  victims  who  fell  in  the  massacre. 
BetAveen  this  monument  and  the  observatory  is  one  of 
Asoka's  pillars,  dating,  from  the  inscription  found  en- 
graved thereon,  two  hundred  years  before  the  Christian 
,era.  In  the  year  1766,  by  the  explosion  of  a  powder- 
magazine,  it  was  thrown  down  and  broken  into  five 
pieces.  After  the  mutiny  it  was  restored  and  set  up  by 
the  British  Government. 

Not  far  from  the  city-walls  we  come  to  the  shaft  or 
monument  of  red  stone  known  as  the  Lat.  This  stone 
is  in  one  single  piece,  forty  feet  high  and  ten  feet  in 
thickness  at  its  base,  gradually  tapering  to  the  top.  All 
around  it  lie  the  massive  ruins  of  an  old  palace.     This 


DELHI.  267 

sliaffc,  or  Lat,  as  it  is  called,  bears  an  inscription  of  a  very 
ancient  cliaraeter,  whicli  was  entirely  unintelligible  to 
the  most  learned  Bralimans,  but  more  recently  European 
skill  has  deciphered  the  writing,  which  proves  to  consist 
of  certain  edicts  for  the  furtherance  of  religion  and 
virtue,  put  forth  by  a  king  named  Dhuma  Asoka  Piya- 
dasi,  who  reigned  322  b.  c.  This  saint  must  have  changed 
his  character  after  he  ascended  the  throne,  since  he 
ordered  ninety  of  his  relatives  who  had  prior  claims  to 
be  put  to  death.  Tliis  shaft  is,  therefore,  twenty-two 
hundred  years  old,  and  the  inscription  upon  it  is  proba- 
bly the  oldest  writing  in  India. 

We  now  come  to  the  old  Pathan  Fort,  inclosed  by 
walls  sixty  feet  high ;  at  each  angle  is  a  circular  bastion, 
and  in  the  middle  of  each  side  a  gateway,  defended  by 
two  towers  pierced  with  loop-holes.  Within  the  fort  is 
a  mosque,  a  building  of  excellent  design  and  rich  work- 
manship. The  front  is  of  red  stone  inlaid  with  marble 
and  colored  stone,  and  ornamented  with  projecting  bal- 
conies supported  by  elegant  brackets.  It  is  crowned 
with  three  domes,  the  central  one  very  lofty. 

January  '2Wi. — This  morning  early,  accompanied  by 
our  guide,  we  rode  out  to  the  Kootub  Minar,  eleven 
miles  from  the  hotel.  It  is  rej)uted  to  be  the  loftiest 
column  in  the  world.  Kootub  Minar  is  a  tinted  pillar 
two  hundred  and  forty  feet  in  height,  and  about  eighty 
feet  in  circumference  at  the  base,  gradually  diminishing 
to  forty  feet  at  the  summit.  It  is  divided  into  five 
stories  by  2:)rojecting  balconies,  which  surround  the  tower 
and  add  much  to  its  beauty.     The  lower  story  is  ninety- 


268 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


■five  feet  in  height  from  tlie  base,  the  second  fifty  feet 
above  the  first,  the  third  forty  feet  above  the  second,  the 
fourth  twenty-five  feet  above  the  third,  and  the  fifth 
fifteen  feet  above  the  fourth.  For  what  purpose  it  was 
erected  no  one  can  tell.     This  column  is  in  a  good  state 


THE   KOOTLB  JIIXAU. 


of  preservation,  and  its  summit  is  reached  by  three  hun- 
dred and  seventy-five  steps.  Looking  up  from  its  base, 
I  thouo-ht  it  too  hio-h  to  ascend  throuo-h  a  circular  stair- 
way ;  but  Mrs.  Winants,  having  more  of  a  passion  for 
climbing,  ventured  up,  and  on  descending  said  the  view 


DELHI.  269 

from  tlie  summit  of  the  column  more  than  compensated 
her  for  the  fatiorue  she  endured. 

Within  a  few  hundred  feet  of  the  Kootub  Minar  are 
numerous  carved  fragments  of  the  ]\Iusjid-i-Kootul3-ul-Is- 
1am,  which  was  erected  as  the  grand  mosque  of  old  Delhi. 
It  was  constructed  by  its  Mohammedan  conqueror,  at 
the  close  of  the  twelfth  century,  from  the  spoils  of  twenty- 
seven  Hindoo  temples.  Some  of  the  arches  and  pillars 
are  beautifully  sculptured.  In  the  centre  of  the  court 
stands  the  celebrated  Iron  Pillar,  surrounded  by  clusters 
of  columns  of  infinite  variety  and  design,  and  of  the  most 
delicate  workmanship.  There  are  three  entrances  to  the 
large  court.  The  Iron  Pillar  alluded  to  is  a  solid  sbaft 
of  mixed  metal,  sixteen  inches  in  diameter;  it  stands 
twenty-two  feet  above  the  ground-surface,  and  as  far  be- 
low-ground. The  history  of  the  shaft  is  as  follows: 
Rajah  Pathora,  fearing  the  fall  of  his  dynasty,  consulted 
the  Brahmans  as  to  what  steps  should  be  taken  to  insure 
its  continuance.  He  was  informed  that,  if  he  sunk  an 
iron  shaft  into  the  ground,  it  would  pierce  tlie  head  of 
the  snake-god  Lishay,  who  supported  the  world,  and  his 
kingdom  would  endure  forever.  The  pillar  was  accord- 
ingly constructed.  How  long  the  shaft  remained  undis- 
turbed is  not  mentioned  ;  but  the  rajah,  either  distrust- 
ing his  priestly  advisers,  or  desirous  of  seeing  for  him- 
self whether  the  snake  had  been  touched,  had  the  pillar 
taken  up,  and,  finding  the  end  of  it  covered  with  blood, 
ordered  the  pillar  to  be  again  inserted  in  the  ground. 
His  Brahman  friends  now  told  him  that  the  sceptre 
would   soon  pass  away  from  the  hands  of  the  Hindoo 


270  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

sovereign — that  the  charm  was  broken.  Shortly  after 
this,  Shihab-ncl-cliu  took  possession  of  the  kingdom,  and 
from  that  time  no  Hindoo  king  has  reigned  in  the  great 
city  of  Delhi. 

Sekander  Sani,  consisting  of  a  cluster  of  buildings,  is 
the  next  place  we  visited.  We  entered  a  gateway  with 
pointed  horseshoe  arches.  The  building  within  the  court 
is  surrounded  by  massive  screens  of  marble  lattice-work, 
and  the  whole  structure  surmounted  by  a  dome.  From 
here  we  were  invited  to  visit  the  "  Tank,"  about  one 
hundred  paces  distant,  partly  inclosed  by  a  wall  eiglity 
feet  high,  from  the  top  of  which  souie  live  or  six  nearly- 
naked  natives  leaped  into  the  Avater  one  by  one.  After 
reaching  terra  firma  each  in  turn  held  out  his  hand  for 
money  in  reward  for  the  performance,  for  which  visitors 
are  expected  to  pay,  and  it  is  a  feat  that  every  traveler 
should  witness.  They  sprang  with  outstretched  arms 
and  legs,  and  kept  in  this  position  until  within  about 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  from  the  \vater,  when  they  sud- 
denly straightened  themselves  uj^right,  plunged  feet  fore- 
most into  the  tank,  and  soon  reappeared  swimming  on 
the  surface. 

Delhi,  Avith  her  noble  fort  and  splendid  palaces,  her 
stupendous  mosques,  Ler  battered  walls  and  public  halls^ 
once  the  pride  of  India,  is  a  grand  desolation,  covered 
with  ruins,  which  it  would  require  volumes  to  describe 
and  months  to  explore. 

It  is  conceded  by  many  travelers  that  the  wonderful 
ruins  spread  over  Northern  India  are  of  greater  interest 
to  the  tourist  than   any  existing  in  the  world,  excepting 


DELHI.  271 

those  of  Palestine  and  Egypt,  whicli  are  more  intimately 
connected  with  the  world's  sacred  history. 

We  called  upon  the  Rev.  Dr.  Smith,  who  cordially 
received  us,  and  gave  much  information  concerning  the 
missionary  work  in  whicli  he  has  been  engaged  at  this 
post  for  the  last  twenty-live  years.  He  not  only  preaches 
some  three  or  four  times  a  week  to  the  natives,  bnt  has 
much  to  do  with  the  municipal  business  of  the  city.  The 
Queen's  Gardens  are  also  committed  to  his  care,  with 
their  menageries  and  all  that  pertains  to  them. 

When  Dr.  Smith  entered  Delhi,  in  1850,  he  made  his 
first  convert  in  this  place,  and  had  to  preach  in  a  very 
small  room.  Now  he  has  a  flourishing  church,  with  six 
hundred  members,  of  which  four  hundred  or  more  are 
communicants,  and  the  mission  is  self-sustaining.  He 
has  also  charge  of  a  flourishing  school,  where  several 
native  young  men  have  been  fitted  for  the  ministry,  and 
sent  out  to  preach  the  gos2:>el  truth  to  their  countrymen. 
By  this  means,  in  a  circuit  of  fifty  miles  or  more,  several 
additional  churches  have  been  established.  Dr.  Smith 
is  accustomed  to  go  over  this  circuit  at  least  twice  a  year, 
visiting  the  churches  and  administering  to  their  spiritual 
welfare.  He  said  that  the  country  churches  were  chiefly 
conducted  by  native  2:)reachers,  who  had  much  greater 
influence  and  made  more  converts  than  foreign  mission- 
aries, but  they  require  more  monetary  means  to  carry 
on  the  work  successfully  ;  as  to  laborers  in  the  missionary 
field  they  have  a  good  supply. 

Dr.  Smith's  excellent  wife,  a  lady  of  rare  culture  and 
refinement,  and  great  energy  of  character,  together  with 


272  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

some  four  or  five  other  women,  conducts  the  Zenana  Mis- 
sion, and  has  free  access  to  over  eighty  Mohammedan 
girls,  who  are  instructed  in  letters  and  needle-work.  The 
ladies  of  this  mission,  who  go  out  daily  among  the  zena- 
nas, are  generally  cordially  received,  and  many  of  the 
wealthy  natives  ex^^ress  an  earnest  desire  that  their  ^vives 
and  daughters  may  be  instructed.  This  institution  is 
not  altogether  new ;  its  specific  form  was  adopted  some 
fifteen  years  ago  by  the  Woman's  Union  Missionary  So- 
ciety of  America  for  Heathen  Lands,  which  is  spreading 
over  most  of  the  large  cities  of  India,  and  whose  head- 
quarters are  at  Calcutta.  It  is  a  work  of  great  imj^or- 
tance  to  the  women  of  India,  who  are  so  little  esteemed 
by  the  male  sex,  as  it  brings  them,  in  closer  connection 
with  the  influence  of  the  Christian  religion. 

Since  the  mutiny  of  1857,  by  which  the  city  of  Delhi 
was  greatly  damaged,  the  English  Grovernment  has  made 
many  improvements.  The  Queen's  Gardens,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  town,  are  laid  out  with  much  taste,  beautified 
by  fine  roads  and  walks,  and  ornamented  with  flowers, 
shrubs,  and  shade-trees.  A  costly  memorial  church  has 
been  erected  within  the  inclosure  to  commemorate  those 
who  fell  in  the  terrible  revolt,  which  burst  upon  the  city 
with  such  terrific  force. 

The  insurrection  commenced  at  Meerut,  about  forty- 
five  miles  distant.  After  the  massacre  of  the  Europeans — 
men,  women,  and  children — at  that  j^lace,  tlxe  Sepoys  set 
out  in  a  body  for  Delhi,  where  the  native  troops  joined 
them,  leaving  the  fortifications  with  only  a  few  English 
officers,  many  of  whom  were  slaughtered  by  the   insur- 


DELHI.  273 

gents.  The  magazine,  which  contained  an  enormous  sup- 
ply of  powder,  guns,  and  other  implements  of  war,  was 
in  charge  of  Lieutenant  Willoughby.  Seeing  the  state 
of  affairs,  he  closed  and  barricaded  the  gates,  and  then, 
laying  a  train  of  gunpowder,  j^repared  to  blow  up  the 
arsenal  should  resistance  prove  unavailing.  Only  nine 
English  oflScers  kept  thousands  of  Se2:)oys  at  bay,  until 
at  length,  completely  exhausted,  and  likely  to  be  over- 
powered by  the  enemy,  the  match  was  ap2:>lied,  and  more 
than  a  thousand  mutineers  were  blown  into  the  air.  All 
the  Europeans  in  the  city  who  had  not  made  their  escape 
were  massacred  by  the  Sej^oys.  The  English  families 
were  tied  in  row^s,  and  then  shot  and  sabred  without 
mercy.  Those  who  escaped  suffered  fearfully — tender 
women  and  helpless  children  wandering  for  days  under 
the  burning  sun,  lying  down  at  night  in  the  jungles  in 
constant  fear  of  the  enemy.  At  this  time  the  city  of 
Delhi  fell  completely  into  the  hands  of  the  rebels;  but 
it  was  not  long  after  when  it  was  recaptured  by  the 
English  trooj3s,  an  exploit  conceded  to  have  been  one  of 
the  most  brilliant  and  heroic  achievements  in  the  history 
of  Indian  warfare. 

January  30th. — This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  availed 
ourselves  of  the  opportunity  of  attending  divine  service 
at  Rev.  Dr.  Smith's  church,  a  neat  and  comfortable  edi- 
fice, beautifully  situated  in  an  open  space  about  a  mile 
out  from  the  city-walls.  The  first  service  was  in  the 
native  language.  The  church  was  entirely  filled  with 
natives,  who  were  neatly  clad  in  the  costume  of  the 
country.     The  second  sermon  was  in  English,  the  con- 


274  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

gregation  consisting  chiefly  of  British  officers  and  sol- 
diers. 

January  ^\st. — We  now,  having  reached  the  remotest 
point  of  our  journey  inland,  and  over  a  thousand  miles 
from  the  sea,  turn  our  faces  homeward  by  the  East  India 
Railway  11.30  a.  m.  train  for  Bombay,  distant  twelve 
hundred  and  thirty -four  miles ;  fare  one  hundred  and 
eleven  rupees  each,  with  the  j^rivilege  of  stopping 
and  remaining  over  at  any  place  on  the  road.  At  a 
quarter-past  twelve  o'clock  we  arrived  at  Gareeabad^ 
thirteen  miles  below  Delhi,  where  there  is  a  road  branch- 
ing off  to  the  Himalaya  Mountains,  distant  sixty  miles  by 
rail  and  thirty  by  bullock-carts,  where  we  had  a  strong 
desire  to  go ;  but  we  were  informed,  by  those  who  had 
just  returned  from  the  mountains,  that  the  snow  was 
deep  and  the  weather  cold,  therefore  we  reluctantly  de- 
clined making  the  trip.  On  our  arrival  in  Southern 
India,  we  found  the  weather  so  extremely  hot  that  we 
concluded  to  send  our  heavy  trunks,  containing  all  our 
thick  clothing,  by  ship  to  Bombay,  which  we  were  to 
receive  on  our  arrival  at  that  place.  Hence  we  were  not 
prepared  to  encounter  cold  weather. 

A  few  days  can  be  profitably  spent  in  the  Himalayas, 
the  loftiest  peak  of  which.  Mount  Everest,  is  represented 
to  be  a  little  over  twenty-nine  thousand  feet  high,  the 
greatest  mountain  altitude  in  the  world ;  but  they  are 
not  popular  as  a  winter  resort.  During  the  hot  season 
they  are  visited  by  the  rajahs,  princes,  and  English  noble- 
men, who  have  fine  summer  residences  scattered  over  the 
hill-country,  devoting  their  time  principally  to  hunting 


DELHI.  275 

wild  game,  with  all  kinds  of  which,  such  as  wild  ele- 
phants, leopards,  tigers,  wolves,  wild-cats,  etc.,  it  is  said 
the  mountains  are  infested.  But,  during  the  winter,  the 
entire  region  is  nearly  deserted,  being  visited  only  by 
tourists  in  search  of  novelty. 

As  we  proceed  down  the  road,  on  our  way  toward 
Bombay,  we  occasionally  encounter  large  herds  of  deei', 
antelo23e,  and  numerous  flocks  of  large  birds,  seemingly 
as  tame  as  if  they  had  never  heard  a  gun.  As  night  is 
coming  on,  our  car  is  lit  up,  and  we  commence  to  un- 
bundle our  bedding,  spreading  it  out  in  the  best  possible 
manner  upon  the  lengthy  seats  for  an  all-night's  ride. 
The  days  in  India  at  this  season  are  extremely  hot,  but 
the  nights,  especially  just  before  dawn  of  day,  we  fnind 
were  chilly. 

Fehruary  \st. — This  morning,  at  seven  o'clock,  we 
tind  ourselves  in  Allahabad,  three  hundred  and  ninety 
miles  from  Delhi,  having  been  nineteen  hours  on  the 
passage  from  the  latter  |)lace.  We  are  driven  to  the 
Northwestern  Hotel,  where  we  have  good  quarters  for 
five  rupees  a  day  for  each  person.  This  hotel  is  pleas- 
antly situated  and  well  conducted. 


CHxiPTER   XXVI. 


ALLAHABAD. 


The.  city  of  Allahabad  is  situated  on  a  tongue  of  land 
formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Junma  and  Ganges 
Rivers,  and  is  considered  by  the  Hindoos  as  one  of  the 
most  sacred  localities  in  India,  being  venerated  by  them 
as  the  place  where  three  rivers  join,  only  two  of  these 
streams  being  visible  to  mortal  eyes;  the  third,  they 
assert,  flows  direct  from  paradise ! 

Allahabad,  a  name  given  to  the  place  by  the  Moham- 
medan conquerors,  means  the  "  City  of  God."  When  a 
pilgrim  arrives  here,  the  first  thing  he  does  is  to  repair 
to  the  river  and  sit  down  upon  the  bank ;  he  then  has 
his  head  and  body  closely  shaved,  so  that  each  hair  may 
fall  into  the  water,  the  sacred  writings  promising  him 
one  million  years'  residence  in  paradise  for  every  hair 
deposited  in  the  water !  After  shaving,  he  bathes,  to 
wash  his  sins  away. 

The  fort,  built  by  Akbar,  rises  directly  from  the 
banks  of  the  two  rivers,  which  situation  rendered  it 
in  former  days  nearly  impregnable.  It  covers  a  large 
ground-surface,  and  has  been  a  very  noble  castle  in  its 
time,  but  has  suffered  greatly  by  cannon-balls  and  other 
missiles.  It  is  still,  however,  a  striking  place,  and  its 
principal  entrance  is    surmounted  ])y  a  dome,   with    a 


ALLAHABAD.  277 

wide  liall,  surrounded  by  arcades  and  galleries.  With- 
in the  in  closure  is  the  hall  occupied  by  Akbar.  The 
Europeans  took  refuge  in  this  old  fort  during  the  mutiny 
of  1857,  many  of  whom  fell  victims  to  cholera  brought 
on  by  privation  and  suffering. 

Allahabad  has  acquired  much  importance  within  a 
few  years  by  the  removal  of  the  capital  from  Agra  to 
this  place.  Aside  from  the  old  city  a  new  one  has  been 
laid  out,  with  broad  avenues  and  spacious  squares ;  and 
large  puldic  buildings,  including  some  of  the  finest  bar- 
racks in  India,  have  recently  been  finished.  Many  beau- 
tiful bungalows  have  also  been  erected,  surrounded  by 
extensive  .  gardens,  planted  witL  ornamental  shade-trees 
and  flowers,  giving  the  dwellings  a  cheerful  and  pretty 
appearance.  In  the  mutiny  of  1857  every  foreign  resi- 
dence and  every  public  Ijuilding  was  destroyed,  except- 
ing the  Masonic  Hall,  which  the  natives  did  not  dare 
to  attack,  on  account  of  the  spirits  that  were  supposed 
to  guard  it.  The  ancient  city  of  Allahabad  is  of  con- 
siderable extent,  but  is  poorly  built,  the  houses  being 
low,  and  the  streets  narrow  and  winding. 

Allahabad  has  Ions;  been  known  as  a  mission-field 
of  the  American  Presbyterian  Church.  It  is  the  chief 
place  of  pilgrimage,  and,  through  the  multitudes  that 
gather  here  every  year,  an  influence  may  be  sent  out  to 
every  part  of  India  by  those  who  come  here  to  wash 
their  sins  away  in  the  holy  waters  of  the  Gauges  and 
Jumna,  this  being  to  the  Hindoos  the  most  sacred  spot 
in  the  world. 

The   bridge  over  the    Jumna   is  one  of  the  attrac- 


278  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

tions  of  Allaliabad,  the  river  being  about  a  half-mile 
broad  at  tliis  point.  The  bridge  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  the  world,  being  entirely  of  wrought-iron,  and  thirty- 
two  hundred  and  twenty -four  feet  long;  there  are 
fifteen  openings  in  it,  each  two  hundred  and  five  feet 
in  the  clear.  The  construction  of  this  bridge  is  con- 
sidered a  great  triumph  of  engineering  skill.  The  bed 
of  the  river  is  very  treacherous,  owing  to  the  loose  ma- 
terial and  the  rapid  current  at  this  point.  The  immense 
piers  are  sunk  fifty  feet  below  the  level  of  low  water, 
and  the  water  at  the  time  of  a  freshet  in  the  river  rises 
here  from  forty-five  to  fifty  feet,  so  that  these  stupendous 
stone  piers  must  necessarily  be  one  hundred  feet  high 
merely  to  lift  the  bridge  above  high  water.  The  rail- 
way is  carried  over  on  top  of  tlie  iron  girders,  and  the 
public  carriage-road  is  underneath.  The  I'ailway  is 
carried  on  a  viaduct  for  a  long  distance  after  leaving  the 
bridge,  the  former  being  almost  as  fine  a  work  as  the 
bridge  itself,  constructed  as  it  is  on  lofty  arches.  The 
East  India  Rail  wav  and  the  Grand  Trunk  road  both  have 
depots  in  this  city.  It  has  become  an  important  railway 
centre,  and  is  the  very  focus  of  the  great  railway  system 
of  Hindostan,  which  unites  Bengal,  Northern  India,  and 
Bombay. 

The  two  great  rivers  that  here  unite  are  navigable 
for  steamers  for  a  long  distance,  and  the  Ganges  from 
here  to  Calcutta  has  a  fall  of  only  five  inches  to  the  mile. 
This  lordly  stream,  in  its  course  from  the  mountains  to 
the  sea,  receives  as  tributaries  no  less  than  twenty  rivers, 
twelve  of  which  are  of  greater  volume  than  the  Rhine. 


ALLAHABAD.  279 

The  lower  part  of  tliis  great  river  is  covered  with  ships, 
steamers,  and  vessels  of  every  description,  and  by  its 
agency  an  immense  commerce  is  carried  on  w^ith  every 
section  of  the  country. 

Allahabad  is  admirably  situated,  and  its  population 
and  trade  have  steadily  increased  and  are  still  increasing. 
The  population  has  doubled  in  a  few  years,  and  now 
numbers  nearly  two  hundred  thousand  souls.  The  new 
Capitol  is  of  stone,  located  in  the  centre  of  a  large  park, 
with  grounds  elegantly  laid  out,  and  adorned  with  the 
beautiful  trees  of  this  favored  land ;  as  yet,  however,  the 
trees  are  small  and  afford  but  little  shade,  but  an  abun- 
dant supply  of  water  is  provided  for  the  ground,  and  in 
a  few  3^ears  will  make  the  place  beautiful. 

The  university  buildings  are  also  of  stone,  large  and 
elegant,  and  wdth  fine  grounds  adjoining,  but  in  which 
the  trees  are  as  yet  small.  These  public  buildings  are 
among  the  finest  in  India.  The  site  of  the  city  is  level, 
and  the  streets  are  very  smooth,  being  macadamized  in 
the  best  possible  manner.  It  is  never  winter  here,  and 
the  leaves  do  not  fall,  but  are  ever  green ;  the  grass, 
however,  withers,  for  there  is  no  rain  at  this  season  of 
the  year,  and  the  land  that  is  not  irrigated  is  dry,  parched 
up,  and  seemingly  dead. 

February  'id. — This  morning  early  we  hired  a  car- 
riage, procured  an  experienced  guide,  and  rode  to  the 
junction  of  the  Ganges  and  Jumna  Rivers,  where  we 
found  the  great  Hindoo  fair,  which  is  only  celebrated 
once  in  every  ten  years  (although  they  have  regular 
annual  fairs  not  so  large)   in  full  display.     It  was  the 


280  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

largest  concourse  of  people  that  I  ever  witnessed.  Thou- 
sands and  teis  of  thousands  come  from  all  parts  of  India 
to  worship,  and  wash  their  sins  away  in  these  united 
waters.  Flag-s  of  various  ordei's  were  hoisted  over 
stands  on  which  Brahman  priests  were  seated  to  receive 
fees  and  read  their  Shastas.  Before  reaching  the  sacred 
waters,  for  a  mile  along  both  sides  of  the  wide  avenue, 
all  sorts  of  shops  and  tents  were  pitched,  for  the  sale  of 
idols  and  useful  and  useless  articles.  Within  the  encamp- 
ment good  order  prevailed,  and  the  people  were  seemingly 
devout  in  their  manner  of  woi  ship.  The  scene  reminded 
me  of  a  colored  Methodist  camp-meeting.  In  the  tents 
the  people  were  quietly  seated  upon  the  ground,  the 
priects  reading  to  them  from  books,  and  others  preaching 
to  the  multitude.  But  the  most  loathsome  sisfhts  that 
I  have  ever  beheld  were  in  some  of  the  tents :  devotees 
with  their  bodies  covered  with  sackcloth  and  ashes,  as 
an  atonement  for  sin ;  others  with  heads  shaven  close  to 
the  skull,  completely  covered  with  ashes,  upon  their 
bended  knees,  with  their  faces  fixed  toward  heaven  as 
if  in  silent  prayer ;  while  others  still  were  as  naked  as 
when  horn,  with  the  exception  of  a  small  piece  of  muslin 
cloth  frirded  around  the  loins,  their  bodies  colored  vel- 
low,  and  striped  with  red  paint.  Every  tent  in  which 
there  was  j^reaching  had  incense  burning  at  the  door. 

As  we  passed  through  the  dense  crowds  to  the 
water  -  front,  its  banks  were  literally  thronged  with 
people,  and  thousands  were  bathing  in  the  Ganges; 
while  others,  having  their  heads  and  bodies  shaved  pre- 
paratory  to    entering   the   sacred   waters,   crowded    on 


ALLAHABAD.  281 

numerous  boat&i.  The  encampment-grounds  covered  a 
space  of  not  less  than  one  hundred  acres,  and  there  were 
reputed  to  have  been  five  hundred  thousand  people  in 
and  around  this  locality,  who  came  from  all  quarters  of 
the  peninsula  on  this  occasion.  Many  brought  tents, 
provisions,  and  cooking-utensils,  with  them.  Some  from 
the  remotest  parts  were  from  three  to  four  weeks  on  the 
journey  to  this  fair.  In  coming  from  Delhi  we  passed 
bullock-carts  loaded  with  devotees,  both  men  and  women ; 
others  on  foot,  dragging  their  way  along  toward  the  holy 
river.  It  is  said  that  many  of  the  older  people  remain 
here  to  die,  and  have  their  bodies  either  burned  or 
thrown  into  the  Ganges ;  in  the  case  of  those  who  are 
too  poor  to  pay  the  expense  of  the  funeral-pile,  their 
bodies  are  thrown  into  the  sacred  waters  with  little  or 
no  ceremony.  After  hearing  of  this  custom  of  the  Hin- 
doos, our  party  ate  no  more  fish  while  in  the  country. 

The  Hindoos  also  worship  the  sun,  moon,  stars,  and 
fire.  By  one  of  our  i)arty  an  intelligent-looking  native 
was  asked  why  they  worshiped  such  things.  He  re- 
plied that  they  believed  in  one  God,  who  was  the  true 
light  of  both  heaveu  and  earth ;  that  the  sun,  moon, 
stars,  and  fire,  gave  lights,  and  God  dwelt  in  all  those 
lights.  In  making  further  inquiry,  the  question  was 
asked  why  they  worshiped  so  many  gods  and  goddesses. 
He  answered  that  the  true  God  was  invisible ;  and  the 
only  way  by  which  they  had  access  to  his  presence  was 
through  their  graven  images  or  gods,  who  were  merely 
representatives,  standing  between  them  and  their  God, 
and  through  them  came  answer  to  prayer. 

19 


282  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

The  worsliip  of  idols  God  lias  denounced  in  tlie 
strongest  possible  language  througliout  botli  the  Old 
and  New  Testaments,  declaring  that  man  shall  not  wor- 
ship graven  images  (Jeremiah  xxv.  6  :  "  And  go  not 
after  other  gods  to  serve  them,  and  to  worship  them, 
and  provoke  me  not  to  anger  with  the  works  of  your 
hands;  and  I  will  do  you  no  hurt").  The  missionaries 
may  well  ask  for  the  sympathy  and  prayers  of  the 
rio-hteous  in  their  conflict  with  such  abominable  wor- 
ship  of  idols !  The  Christian  workers  in  these  benighted 
and  heathen  lands  have  a  double  duty  to  perform,  like 
the  builders  of  the  walls  of  Jerusalem  under  Nehemiah, 
w^hen  they  had  to  work  with  the  trowel  in  one  hand, 
and  stand  ready  to  defend  themselves  with  the  sword 
in  the  other. 

In  a  tour  around  the  world,  mission-work  and  mis- 
sionaries naturally  form  topics  of  thought  and  conversa- 
tion. I  regard  this  subject  as  one  possessing  elements 
of  special  interest  to  travelers ;  and,  if  no  friendly  sym- 
pathy were  felt  to  awaken  inquiry  and  lead  to  inves- 
tigation of  facts,  adverse  representations  would  have 
that  effect.  On  board  the  steamers  of  the  Pacific,  and 
in  these  Eastern  seas,  we  are  almost  certain  to  meet  with 
missionaries  traveling  to  or  from  their  respective  fields 
of  labor,  and  we  are  almost  equally  sure  to  encounter 
some  of  anti-missionary  sentiments,  who  never  seem  to 
be  more  in  their  glory  than  when  I'eviling  the  mission- 
aries and  speaking  disparagingly  of  their  work.  We 
had  representatives  of  both  of  these  classes  with  us  all 
the  way  from  San  Francisco  to  Ja2:>an,  China,  India,  and 


ALLAHABAD.  283 

even  met  tliem  in  the  British  settlements,  speaking  and 
arguing  against  missionary  work. 

If  it  liad  not  heen  for  tlie  missionaries  of  Eno-land  and 
America,  who  at  first  introduced  the  princij^jles  of  civili- 
zation into  Asia,  which  has  had  so  great  an  influence 
in  opening  the  doors  of  her  commerce  to  the  AVestern 
world,  we  would  not  to-day  have  known  so  much  of  her 
history.  Therefore  tourists,  in  traveling  around  the 
globe,  whether  they  are  pious  or  otherwise,  instead  of 
speaking  against  the  missionaries,  without  some  tangible 
and  sufficient  cause,  should  commend  their  work  for  the 
good  which  it  has  already  done,  and  which  no  intelli- 
gent observer  can  doubt. 

Eno-land  and  the  United  States  have  sent  out  more 
missionaries,  and  done  more  to  civilize  and  Christianize 
the  heathen,  than  all  other  countries  together.  The 
little  seeds  of  salvation,  sown  by  the  influence  of  these 
devoted  laborers,  have  taken  root,  and  are  slowly  but 
gradually  spreading  over  the  continent  of  Asia,  and  the 
islands  of  the  sea^  Ere  long  will  come  the  rich  harvest, 
according  to  the  teaching  of  the  Scriptures,  when  even 
from  the  least  to  the  greatest  all  shall  know  the  name 
of  the  Lord. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

JUBBULPORE      TO      BO  31  BAY. 

February  Sd. — This  morning  we  resumed  our  tour 
€71  route  for  Bombay  by  the  8  a.  m.  train.  Nynce,  a  small 
village,  is  our  first  stopping-place  after  leaving  Allaha- 
bad. From  here  we  ran  through  a  fine  open  countiy, 
well  cultivated,  till  we  came  to  Jurra,  where  we  made 
another  halt.  Soon  after  leaving  N3'nce  the  cultivation 
decreases,  and  low  jungle-bnshes  appear  scattered  over 
the  valley.  Farther  along,  the  country,  for  some  two 
or  three  miles,  is  covered  with  ]ar2:e  black  bowlders  of 
granite,  but  in  the  distance  are  seen  high  ranges  of  moun- 
tain-scenery. We  soon  reach  a  bold  headland,  which 
appears  to  be  the  end  of  the  chain,  but  as  we  move  along 
it  again  appears  in  the  distance,  where  richly- wooded 
slopes  meet  the  eye.  Farther  on  a  long  curve  through 
a  cutting  brings  us  into  a  fine  expanse  of  open  country^ 
bounded  on  the  left  by  high  hills,  which  soon  after  sweep 
round  to  the  right.  As  the  train  rushes  along,  two  large 
tigers  are  seen  in  the  jungle  not  far  from  the  track. 
We  stop  at  Mujgowan  for  nearly  half  an  hour.  It  is 
in  a  charming  situation,  embosomed  in  hills,  and  is  the 
highest  point  in  the  Ghauts. 

Soon  after  leaving  this  station,  we  are  again  in  a  fine 


JUBBULPORE    TO    BOMBAY.  285 

open  country,  witli  a  few  trees  scattered  liere  and  there, 
^nd  a  Mffli  rano;e  of  hills  before  us.  We  arrive  at  Sutna 
at  2.30  p.  M.,  where  we  dine.  About  a  mile  from  the 
town  we  cross  a  river  of  the  same  name.  Now  the  view 
is  all  closed  in  by  the  high  hills.  As  we  emerge  from 
these,  we  pass  for  nearly  thirty  miles  through  a  beauti- 
ful level  valley,  bounded  on  either  side,  in  the  distance, 
by  lofty  hills  of  almost  uniform  height,  sloping  gently 
to  the  plain.  Later  in  the  afternoon  we  pass  through, 
very  pretty  jungle-scenery,  diversified  here  and  there  by 
detached  hills  rising  from  a  beautifully-wooded  plain, 
and  all  along  we  occasionally  see  some  large  herds  of 
deer  and  antelope,  and  flocks  of  birds. 

Early  in  the  evening  we  passed  by  a  mountain  on 
fire,  which  was  most  beautiful  to  look  upon.  At  ten 
o'clock  in  the  evening  we  arrive  in  Jubbulpore,  where 
we  break  our  journey,  and  put  up  in  the  Great  Northern 
Hotel — board  five  rupees  a  day.  This  hotel  is  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  station ;  it  is  somewhat  fantastic  in 
its  construction,  but  very  well  kept. 

Februartj  UJi. — The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Jub- 
bulpore is  interesting  on  account  of  its  diversified  hills, 
which  contain  a  variety  of  precious  stones.  Beautiful 
specimens  of  agate,  porphyry,  blood-stone,  and  many 
other  rare  and  valuable  gems,  are  found  here,  and  can  be 
purchased  at  reasonable  prices. 

Jubbulpore  is  a  thriving  place,  with  good  roads  and 
pleasant  bungalows.  The  city  contains  eleven  thou- 
sand houses  within  its  boundaries.  The  streets  are 
w^ide  and  clean,  lined  with  shops  and  residences,  built 


286  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

to  conform  to  the  Oriental  style,  and  present  rather  a 
pretty  aspect. 

This  is  the  station  to  which  the  Thuo^s  were  consigned 
when  the  mutiny  of  1857  wa§  suppressed.  They  are 
organized  into  a  sort  of  penal  colony  under  British  super- 
vision. Some  of  the  more  desperate  and  dangerous  char- 
acters are  in  irons,  and  they  are  all  kept  at  hard  labor. 
Even  the  children  of  the  Thug's  are  coniined  here,  and 
are  not  allowed  to  go  out,  lest  the  band  should  again 
spread  over  the  country,  and  its  fearful  and  unnatural 
crimes  be  repeated. 

The  prison  covers  a  large  space,  with  a  court  within^ 
which  is  kept  well  guarded,  the  door  and  windows  be- 
ing secured  by  heavy  iron-bound  gates  and  shutters. 
We  were  shown  by  the  superintendent  through  the  in- 
stitution. Some  of  the  prisoners  were  hackling  flax  and 
carding  wool,  others  spinning,  and  others  again  weaving 
the  fabric  into  carpets  and  blankets,  of  a  very  neat  pat- 
tern and  color,  for  the  English  army.  The  whole  of  the 
work  is  performed  with  machines  of  native  construction, 
and  of  the  most  ancient  design.  It  was  very  interesting 
to  see  a  row  of  small  boys  sitting  on  a  seat  behind  the 
weavers  threadins;  needles.  There  are  other  branches  of 
industry  carried  on  in  this  institution,  which  was  alto-^ 
gether  well  worth  a  visit. 

We  engaged  an  exj^erienced  guide,  and  rode  out  for 
several  miles  into  the  country.  Coming  to  the  foot  of  a 
group  of  hills,  presenting  a  wild  and  most  picturesque- 
appearance,  we  left  the  carriage  and  climbed  the  highest 
peak,  on  which  is  a  Hindoo  temple  of  great  antiquity^ 


JUBBULPOEE    TO    BOMBAY.  987 

constructed  on  tlie  ,very  edge  of  a  "bold  precipice.  We 
ascended  a  flight  of  stone  steps  till  we  came  to  the  roof 
of  the  temple,  whence  we  obtained  a  magnificent  view 
of  the  surrounding  country.  The  scenery  throughout  is 
full  of  beauty;  the  valley  and  adjacent  hills,  as  we  look 
down  upon  them,  were  covered  with  gigantic  bowlders 
of  granite,  scattered  in  the  wildest  confusion,  some  deeply 
imbedded  in  the  ground,  others  piled  one  upon  another 
in  such  peculiar  positions  that  it  seemed  as  if  they  had 
been  placed  there  by  the  hand  of  man  instead  of  Nature ; 
others  were  riven  in  twain  by  some  mighty  force — all 
more  or  less  in  a  state  of  decomposition,  the  slow  but 
sure  decay  of  centuries,  which,  after  a  time,  must  end 
in  the  displacement  of  the  ponderous  masses.  Eiding 
through  the  woods,  we  saw  two  very  fine  monkeys  play- 
fully jumping  from  branch  to  branch,  seemingly  paying 
but  little  attention  to  passers-by.  As  we  proceeded 
through  the  shady  forest  we  met  two  Brahman  priests, 
clothed  in  their  usual  yellow  garments,  both  bareheaded 
and  barefooted;  but  they  would  no  more  disturb  or 
harm  a  monkey  than  we  would  some  choice  animal,  for 
the  reason  that  monkevs  are  amono-  their  chief  idols  of 
worship.  We  returned  to  the  city  by  a  difl:erent  road 
from  that  by  which  we  came.  Just  before  reaching  it 
we  passed  by  some  splendid  country  bungalows  sur- 
rounded by  spacious  parks,  or  large  gardens,  lined  with 
shade-trees,  planted  with  shrubs,  and  adorned  with  beau- 
tiful flowers. 

The  Nerbudda  Eiver  is  not  far  from  the  city  of  Jub- 
bulpore,  and  is  a  clear  and  rapid  stream,  with  high  and 


288  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

precipitous  banks.  This  being  the  dry  season,  the  water 
is  low.  Here  are  deposited  thousands  of  logs  of  the 
finest  timber,  cut  in  the  mountain-forests,  and  waiting 
for  the  river  to  rise,  when  they  are  floated  in  rafts  down 
to  the  sea. 

All  the  ancient  public  edifices  in  India  are  built  of 
stone.  The  elaborate  workmanship  on  some  of  the 
stone-work  shows  that  cutting  and  engraving  had  at- 
tained to  a  perfection  several  centuries  ago  that  is  now 
unknown  to  the  natives  of  the  countr}^ 

February  htli. — This  morning  we  take  our  departure 
by  the  half-past  nine  train  en  route  for  Bombay.  We 
have  assigned  to  our  company  a  reserved  carriage.  The 
extension  of  the  East  India  Railroad  between  here  and 
Bombay  has  only  been  opened  to  travel  within  some 
three  or  four  years ;  since  its  completion,  it  has  become 
one  of  the  most  important  lines  in  India,  as  it  links 
Calcutta  with  Bombay,  and  greatly  reduces  the  time 
occupied  by  bullock-carts,  v/hich  required  several  weeks ; 
the  entire  distance  can  now  be  accomplished  in  less  than 
two  days.  I  purpose  describing  only  a  few  of  the  prin- 
cipal places  along  the  road. 

At  Chandni  is  an  okl  fortification  commanding  the 
great  pass  from  the  west  into  Hindostau.  It  stands 
upon  a  precipitous  rock,  and  possesses  considerable  nat- 
ural strength.  The  face  of  the  country  is  wild  and 
diversified,  and  the  railway  must  have  cost  an  immense 
sum  for  grading  through  this  mountain-pass.  During 
the  afternoon  several  monkeys  were  seen  jumping  from 
branch  to  branch  in  the  wild  forest-trees.     The  scenery 


JUBBULPORE    TO    BOMBAY.  289 

was  SO  very  interesting  that,  when  nightfall  came  upon 
us,  we  regretted  that  the  day  had  not  been  longer. 

Fehrua/ry  6th. — This  morning,  by  the  break  of  day, 
we  enter  the  Ghauts.  The  scenery  through  all  this 
region  is  most  picturesque,  wild,  and  charming.  The 
road  winds  round  the  beautiful  wooded  mountains  in 
every  conceivable  way,  constantly  opening  to  our  de- 
lighted gaze  v^iews  different  from  those  seen  by  us  in  any 
other  country.  For  a  long  distance  we  follow  the  wind- 
ing course  of  the  Godavery  River,  which  has  its  source 
in  this  mountain-range,  its  troubled  waters  rolling  over 
bowlders  in  the  wildest  confusion.  As  we  are  making 
the  descent  from  the  highest  and  western  Ghaut,  the 
road  winds  and  curves  round  2:)recipitous  mountain-peaks, 
reminding  one  of  the  worm  of  a  screw.  While  looking 
out  on  one  side  of  the  carriage  one  sees  overhanging 
rocks  reaching  as  it  were  above  the  clouds,  and  from  the 
other  are  beheld  far  below  in  the  abyss  the  furious  tor- 
rent of  waters  rushing  and  leaping  over  the  rocks,  and 
making  a  noise  like  that  of  some  great  cataract.  After 
leaving  the  Ghauts  the  country  slopes  gradually  away 
into  vast  plains. 

From  Kussara  the  highest  point  is  reached,  where 
begins  the  incline  toward  the  sea.  The  course  of  the 
railway  is  indescribably  beautiful :  the  lofty  cliifs,  green 
slopes,  wooded  gorges,  silver  streams,  cascades,  forests  of 
palms  and  teak-trees,  and  other  Oriental  trees  in  blossom, 
all  combine  to  present  a  picture  of  grandeur  and  beauty. 
Before  reaching  the  plains  we  passed  through  thirteen 
tunnels,  the  longest  in  all  India. 


290  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

Just  before  reaching  Bombay  we  crossed  over  the 
island  of  Salsette,  which  is  approached  from  the  main- 
land by  a  handsome  bridge.  This  island  is  diversified 
by  hills,  mountains,  and  fertile  valleys,  where  we  see 
various  ruins,  consisting  of  churches,  convents,  and  villas. 
From  here  we  passed  through  a  succession  of  beautiful 
gardens  and  groves  of  mangoes,  cocoa-nuts,  and  palms,  of 
great  beauty,  till  we  come  almost  to  the  gates  of  the  city. 
At  11.30  A.  M.  we  arrived  in  Bombay,  and  were  driven 
to  the  Byculla  Hotel,  where  we  had  excellent  entertain- 
ment at  five  rupees  a  day.  This  hotel  is  beautifully 
situated  on  the  border  of  the  town,  having  airy  rooms, 
and  two  tiers  of  balconies,  one  above  the  other,  stretch- 
ing all  around  the  house,  well  adapted  to  the  hot  cli- 
mate. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


BOMBAY. 


Februarg  ^tli. — The  city  of  Bombay  is  beautifully 
situated  on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  which  belongs 
to  a  group  connected  by  a  causeway.  The  land  is  mostly 
level,  excepting  the  rising  ground  called  Malabar  Hill,  a 
point  to  the  west  of  the  island.  Bombay  has  a  fine  har- 
bor for  shipping,  nearly  land-locked,  in  which  lie  some 
of  the  largest  and  finest  ships  in  the  world.  The  island 
was  taken  by  the  Portuguese  in  the  early  part  of  the 
sixteenth  century,  and  by  them  ceded  in  1661  to  Charles 
H.  of  England,  as  part  of  the  dowry  of  his  queen,  Cath- 
arine of  Braganza.  King  Charles,  five  years  later,  either 
gave  or  sold  it  to  the  East  India  Company;  and  in  1865 
it  was  made  the  capital  of  the  Western  Presidency. 
On  the  opening  of  communication  with  England  by  the 
Red  Sea  route  it  received  a  new  impetus,  and  railroad 
communication  centring  here  from  all  parts  of  India,  its 
population  and  commerce  have  rapidly  increased.  It  is 
admirably  located,  both  in  regard  to  its  internal  and 
foreign  trade,  at  the  western  entrance  of  India,  has  di- 
rect communication  with  the  richest  parts  of  the  great 
peninsula,  and  is  the  nearest  point  of  communication  with 
the  whole  Western  world.  Bombay  contains  a  popula- 
tion of  six  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  and  is  the  most 


292  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

lively  city  in  India.  Nearly  all  the  tribes  of  Hindostan 
are  represented  here,  besides  Chinese,  Persians,  Afghans, 
Arabs,  Jews,  Europeans,  and  many  other  nationalities. 
The  costumes  of  the  people  are  varied  and  gay,  and  the 
streets  are  j)erfectly  thronged  by  a  busy  multitude  both 
on  foot  and  in  carriasies. 

February  ^tli. — To-day  I  called  upon  the  American 
consul,  and  examined  the  shij^ping  in  the  harbor,  which 
was  an  interesting  sight  to  witness ;  numerous  large  ships 
lying  off  at  anchor  shij^ping  and  discharging  cargoes, 
each  ship,  by  its  flag,  representing  its  nationality.  I  also 
saw  the  flag  of  our  country,  the  stars  and  stripes,  waving 
to  the  breeze — that  glorious  standard  which  has  greeted 
us  in  every  clime,  floats  in  peace  over  every  ocean,  and 
has  its  influence  in  every  land  and  upon  every  sea. 

February  9th. — We  saw  the  procession  of  the  Mo- 
hammedan annual  relisjious  fair,  this  beins;  the  tenth 
and  last  day.  The  procession  marched  through  the 
sti'eets,  which  were  literally  crowded  with  people.  Some 
in  the  procession,  as  it  was  moving  on,  were  plaj^ing  on 
musical  instruments,  others  were  dancing,  and  others 
singing,  all  exhibited  in  a  religious  way. 

February  10th. — We  chartered  a  small  steam-yacht, 
and  invited  some  seven  or  eight  English  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen who  were  stopping  at  the  hotel  to  devote  the 
afternoon  to  a  visit  to  the  beautiful  little  island  Ele- 
phanta,  about  six  miles  across  the  bay.  The  caves  of 
Elephanta  are  deserted  Buddhist  temples,  immense  cav- 
erns cut  in  the  solid  rock.  The  entrance  to  the  first 
temj^le  has  three  oj^enings,  and  is  supported  by  huge 


BOMBAY.  293 

pillars  formed  in  the  rock.  This  temple  is  one  hundred 
and  thirty-three  feet  in  length,  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
broad,  with  a  ceiling  twenty  feet  high,  supported  l3y 
ranges  of  massive  pillars  beautifully  carved.  Opposite 
the  main  entrance  is  a  gigantic  busfc  with  three  heads, 
supposed  to  represent  the  Hindoo  Trinity.  Here  are 
two  small  temples,  one  on  each  side  of  the  principal  one, 
the  true  history  of  which  is  not  known  ^vith  any  degree 
of  certainty,  but  they  are  supj^osed  to  have  been  built 
in  the  sixth  century.  There  are  numerous  other  carved 
figures  and  shrines  on  the  island,  which  is  beautifully 
wooded,  and  one  of  the  group  that  forms  the  harbor  of 
Bombay. 

Febmary  Wtli. — This  afternoon  we  rode  out  to  Mal- 
abar Hill,  overlooking  the  sea  and  city — the  handsomest 
spot  in  Bombay.  It  is  a  kind  of  cemetery,  selected  by 
the  Parsees,  on  account  of  its  great  elevation,  for  dispos- 
ing of  their  dead.  It  is  constantly  guarded  by  men  of 
a  distinct  caste,  who  are  not  permitted  to  mingle  with 
the  rest  of  the  people.  This  cemetery  contains  a  large 
building  devoted  to  the  preservation  of  the  sacred  fire, 
which  has  been  burning  from  the  remotest  age,  and  is 
never  allowed  to  expire.  Here  are  buildings  for  the 
priests  and  those  having  charge  of  the  dead ;  and  also 
five  round  stone  towers,  called  the  Towers  of  Silence, 
each  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  high  and  about  sixty  in 
diameter,  which  are  the  receptacles  of  the  dead. 

When  a  death  occurs,  the  body  is  taken  to  the  gate 
of  the  cemetery,  approached  by  a  high  flight  of  steps, 
and  delivered  into  the  hands  of  the  priests.     After  a 


294  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

prescribed  ceremonial,  the  body  is  taken  to  one  of  tlie 
towers  and  laid  on  a  grate  upon  the  extreme  top,  where 
a  flock  of  hideous  vultures  is  always  flying  around  wait- 
ing to  devour  the  flesh,  and  the  bones  at  length  fall 
within  the  inclosure  of  the  tower  below  in  heaps.  It  is 
the  most  revolting  mode  of  disposing  of  the  remains  of 
departed  friends  which  I  have  seen  in  any  country — 
quite  as  bad  as,  if  not  worse  than,  the  Hindoo  mode  of 
cremation. 

The  scenery  from  this  high  hill  is  most  magnificent 
to  witness ;  the  drive  was  through  groves  of  cocoa-nut 
jDalms,  and  bungalows,  surrounded  by  a  profusion  of 
Oriental  trees  and  floAvers,  mostly  occupied  by  Parsees, 
who  form  by  far  the  most  numerous  class  in  Bombay. 

The  Parsees  embody  a  great  part  of  the  wealth  of 
the  city,  and  are  the  most  intelligent  and  enterprising 
of  the  natives  of  the  country.  A  large  i^art  of  the  mer- 
cantile business  is  also  in  their  hands.  Their  costume  is 
of  a  peculiar  cut,  partly  European  and  partly  Oriental ; 
they  are  readily  recognized  in  every  part  of  the  East  by 
their  high-crowned  leather  hats.  They  have  a  sort  of  a 
caste  similar  to  the  Hindoos,  and  are  forbidden  to  marry 
excepting  among  their  own  people.  They  seldom  eat 
anything  cooked  by  one  of  another  religion.  We  had 
in  com23any  with  us  on  the  steamship  from  Hong-Kong 
to  Canton  three  Parsee  gentlemen,  who  had  a  separate 
table,  and  instead  of  eating  fish,  meat,  and  j^otatoes, 
w^ith  knife  and  fork,  the  food  was  first  carved,  and 
picked  up  by  their  fingers.  They  are  as  a  rule  well 
educated,  but,  with  all  their  intelligence,  they  hold  with 


BOMBAY.  295 

great  tenacity  to  the  ancient  forms  and  superstitions  of 
tlieir  ancestry,  and  there  are  no  more  bio-oted  reliscionists 
among  all  the  tribes  of  Asia.  They  are  the  descendants 
of  the  discijiles  of  Zoroaster,  who  lived  in  Persia  several 
centuries  before  Christ,  and  it  was  by  him  that  their 
form  of  religion  was  established.  They  are  usually 
known  as  fire-worshipers  reverencing  fire,  as  well  as  the 
sun,  moon,  and  other  heavenly  bodies.  In  their  temples 
fire  is  kept  continually  burning  by  priests,  who  maintain 
that  it  has  never  been  extinguished.  They  feed  it  with 
fragrant  spices,  and  treat  it  as  if  it  were  a  god.  The 
priests  cover  the  lower  part  of  their  faces  with  a  mask 
wlien  they  approach  the  sacred  fire,  lest  they  should 
defile  it  with  their  breath. 

February  12th. — We  devoted  the  day  to  riding  about 
the  city.  "We  visited  the  Town  Hall,  a  massive  struct- 
ure, with  apartments  not  only  for  the  public  service  but 
scientific  and  historical  purposes.  The  rooms  of  the 
Royal  Asiatic  Society,  with  its  immense  library  and 
museum,  are  full  of  interest  to  every  tourist.  We  also 
rode  to  the  fortifications.  The  Elphinstone  Circle,  named 
from  the  Hon.  Mountstuart  Elphinstone,  who  succeeded 
to  the  Bombay  presidency  in  1819,  is  surrounded  by 
fine  public  buildings,  and  the  centre  of  the  most  im- 
portant commercial  oj)erations. 

February  \Ztli. — This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  attended 
the  Baptist  Mission  church.  The  congregation  consisted 
of  a  goodly  number  of  natives,  neatly  clad  in  the  costume 
of  the  country.  I  then  visited  the  Union  Missionary 
Society  works,  which   are   in   a   prosj)erous   condition. 


296 


AROUND    THE   WORLD. 


Their  printing-press  was  at  work,  striking  off  religious 
tracts  and  other  publications,  to  be  distributed  over  their 
■field  of  labor. 

Fehriiary  Wtli. — This  evening,  by  invitation  through 
the  landlord  of  our  hotel,  who  is  a  Parsee  in  high  stand- 
ing, we  attended  a  first-class  wedding  at  the  residence 
of  a  wealthy  Parsee.     The  couple,  however,  had  been 


PARSEE   CHILDREN. 


married  for  eio-ht  davs ;  but,  accordino-  to  their  custom, 
the  weddino;  festival  was  continued  for  nine  days,  of 
wdiich  this  was  the  last.  The  building  was  brilliantly 
illuminated,  both  within  and  without,  it  will  be  safe  to 
say  with  thousands  of  taper-lights. .  Both  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen were  dressed  in  their  peculiar  costume,  and  con- 
stantly kept  moving,  coming  and  going.     They  treated 


BOMBAY.  297 

US  to  some  sweet  spices,  wliich  comprised  all  that  was 
liaiidecl  round  to  the  company.  It  was  more  a  display 
of  dress  and  o-randeiir  than  a  feast. 

February  l^tli — The  annual  horse-races  took  place 
to-day  on  the  Byculla  course,  which  was  directly  in  the 
rear  of  our  hotel,  from  the  lofty  veranda  of  which  we 
saw  the  whole  performance.  The  race-horses  are  not 
kept  in  such  nice  trim,  nor  do  they  run  as  swiftly,  as 
those  of  America  and  England. 

Fehruary  l<6t]i. — They  have  continual  summer  in  Bom- 
bay, and  its  inhabitants  have  never  seen  frost  nor  snow. 
The  climate,  at  this  season  of  the  year,  is  genial  and 
pleasant.  The  thermometer  stands  on  an  average,  at 
noon,  in  the  shade,  at  about  70° ;  at  night  it  is  much 
cooler,  especially  toward  morning,  when  a  blanket  is 
comfortable. 

Fehruary  17th. — \Ye  devote  the  time  mostly  to  rid- 
ing, in  and  out  of  the  city,  visiting  the  numerous  shops, 
filled  with  all  kinds  of  toys,  cheap  fancy-goods,  etc., 
which  reminds  one  of  being  in  fairy-land.  Among  the 
curious  places  in  Bombay  is  the  hospital  for  aged  and 
infirm  animals.  It  is  open  to  all  species  of  animals,  ex- 
cepting the  human.  If  a  horse,  camel,  elephant,  dog,  or 
other  member  of  the  l)rute  creation,  becomes  disabled, 
he  is  brougbt  here  and  kindly  treated  at  the  exj^ense  of 
the  institution. 

Fehruary  ISth. — England  not  only  controls  the  peo- 
ple of  India,  but  she  holds  an  enviable  position  of  influ- 
ence over  the  great  masses  in  many  parts  of  Asia.  The 
two  small  islands  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland  claim  to 

20 


298  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

hold  and  govern  more  tlian  one-tliird  of  the  territory  of 
the  globe.  England's  royal  army  of  red-coats  is  seen 
everyAvhere.  Her  ostensible  policy  is  that  of  neutrality, 
but,  like  her  national  symbol,  the  lion,  she  can  be  aggres- 
sive, and  is  ever  able  to  grapple  with  and  to  conquer  any 
feeble  territory  within  her  reach,  in  view  of  bringing  it 
under  her  rule.  Japan,  China,  India,  Amei'ica,  and  many 
of  the  larsre  islands  of  the  sea,  feel  the  influence  of  Eno"- 
land's  controlling  power. 

Doubtless  it  has  been  a  great  blessing  to  the  people 
of  India  in  having;  been  brou^rht  imder  British  rule.  It 
is  with  great  pleasure  that  I  bear  testimony  to  the  high 
character  of  the  men  who  have  the  administration  of 
affairs  in  the  Indian  Empire,  as  well  as  to  the  promising 
aspect  of  the  country's  future.  I  doubt  if  any  country 
has  more  conscientious  and  intelligent  public  officers  con- 
trolling its  destinies,  but,  as  in  the  case  of  other  new 
administrations,  there  are  yet  important  reforms  to  be 
consummated. 


CHAPTEE  XXIX. 


BOMBAY    TO    SUEZ. 


Fehruary  Vdtli, — This  afternoon  at  four  o'clock  we 
embark  on  board  the  steamship  Erl-King,  Captain  Ham- 
ilton, and  take  passage  for  Suez ;  distance  three  thousand 
miles,  fare  two  hundred  and  fifty  rupees  apiece.  The 
Erl-King  is  a  fine  iron  ship,  bark-rigged,  of  the  capacity 
of  three  thousand  tons,  propelled  by  a  stern-screw.  Our 
passengers  consist  principally  of  East  India  officers — in 
the  military  and  civil  service — and  their  families,  return- 
iDor  to  Ensfland  on  furloug-h  or  leave  of  absence. 

When  we  come  to  look  back  over  the  Orient,  and  the 
interesting  scenes  through  which  we  have  passed,  it  is 
with  a  feeling  of  deep  regret  that  we  determine  upon 
hastening  our  departure,  partly  owing  to  the  sudden 
breaking  out  of  the  small-j^ox  in  Bombay,  by  which 
scores,  if  not  hundreds,  were  dying  daily  in  the  city, 
and  partly  on  account  of  the  necessity  of  evading  the 
hot  and  enervating  winds  of  the  Red  Sea,  which  com- 
monly commence  as  early  as  the  first  of  March,  and  con- 
tinue up  to  the  first  of  December. 

India  is  not  altogether  a  land  of  darkness,  and  yet 
the  mass  of  its  people  are  still  bowing  down  to  its  gods 
of  wood  and  of  stone,  or  following:  the  banner  of  the 
false  Prophet ;  but  the  Sun  of  Righteousness  is  lighting 


300  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

up  tlie  dark  peaks  here  and  there,  and  giving  promise  of 
the  coming  day  when  Christianity  shall  triumph  over 
superstition  and  false  religion. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  the  ship's  anchor  was 
raised.  Caj^tain  Hamilton  said  that  he  intended  to  strike 
a  bee-line  across  the  Indian  Ocean  for  Aden,  on  the 
southern  coast  of  Arabia,  which  was  the  first  land  he 
expected  to  make.  The  passengers  are  all  on  deck,  in 
good  spirits,  chatting  about  home,  and  taking  a  farewell 
view  of  India.  The  weather  is  charming,  and  not  a  rip- 
ple upon  the  surface  of  the  bay. 

February  20th. — Weather  fine,  and  the  ship  under 
full  sail  running  before  the  fresh  northeast  monsoon. 
Thermometer  75°,  Course  west  by  south;  latitude  18° 
22'  north,  longitude  69°  56'  east.  Distance  run,  from 
yesterday  4  p.  m.  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  sixty-four 
miles. 

February  21st. — Weather  fine,  and  the  ship  running 
before  the  monsoon,  with  all  canvas  set,  which  kept  the 
vessel  steady,  helped  us  on  our  course,  and  supplied  us 
with  plenty  of  fresh  air — a  great  blessing  on  these  hot 
Eastern  seas.  Thermometer  76°.  Course  west  bv  south ; 
latitude  17°  54'  north,  longitude  67°  8'  east.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  miles. 
The  Erl-King  is  not  as  fast  as  some  ships  that  we  have 
been  on,  for  the  reason  that  she  does  not  carry  the  mail, 
and  is  very  heavily  laden  with  merchandise.  Captain 
Hamilton,  this  afternoon,  ordered  a  tent  constructed  on 
the  main  deck  for  the  accommodation  of  those  who  found 
it  too  hot  to  sleep  below. 


BOMBA  Y    TO  SUEZ.  .  3OI 

February  2^d. — The  weather  is  chariinng,  the  sea 
like  glass,  and  not  a  ripple  upon  the  water.  The  ship 
is  under  full  sail,  and  running  gracefully  before  the  mon- 
soon. Thermometer  76°.  Course  west  by  south ;  lati- 
tude 17°  14'  north,  lono-itude  63°  41'  west.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles. 

As  the  passengers  gradually  became  acquainted,  the 
time  passed  pleasantly  away.  We  find  Captain  Hamil- 
ton a  gentlemanly,  polite  officer,  not  only  looking  well 
to  his  shi]),  l)ut  attending  faithfully  to  the  comfort  and 
pleasure  of  his  passengers,  which  cannot  be  said  of  all 
captains  on  the  sea.  Every  morning  and  evening  he  in- 
spected every  part  of  the  ship,  from  stem  to  stern,  with 
the  keenest  eye,  to  see  for  himself  that  everything  was 
in  its  proper  place  and  every  man  at  his  post.  The  table 
was  plainer  than  in  some  ships,  but  the  food  was  sub- 
stantial and  well  cooked,  and  the  waiters  obli^ring  and 
ready  at  every  call. 

February  23d. — Weather  very  fine,  and  ship  under 
all  sail,  running  before  the  monsoon.  Thermometer  76°. 
Course  west  by  south  ;  latitude  16°  23'  north,  longitude 
61°  2'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and 
seventy-six  miles. 

Fehruary  2Uli. — Weather  fine,  sea  smooth,  and  the 
ship,  having  all  sail  set,  running  as  usual  before  the  mon- 
soon. Thermometer  80°.  Course  west  by  south ;  lati- 
tude 15°  41'  north,  longitude  57°  53'  east.  Distance  run, 
Tip  to  12  M.,  one  hundred  and  eighty- three  miles. 

February  2bth. — Weather  fine,  sea  smooth,  and  ship 
running  before  the  gentle  monsoon.     Thermometer  81°. 


302  AROUND    THE   WORLP. 

Course  west  by  south;  latitude  15°  11'  nortli,  longitude 
55°  5'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and 
seventy-three  miles. 

February  ^Qtlt. — Weather  fine,  sea  smooth,  and  ship 
under  full  sail.  Thermometer  81°.  Course  west  by  south ; 
latitude  14°  21'  north,  longitude  52°  42'  east.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  seventy-four  miles. 

This  evening  the  water  is  as  smooth  as  a  mirror,  and 
so  deeply  impregnated  with  phosphorescent  jets  of  light 
that  we  could  almost  see  to  piclv  a  pin  from  the  ship's 
deck,  or,  in  other  words,  completely  illuminating  sur- 
rounding objects.  During  yesterday  and  to-day  the 
ocean  was  stre^ved  with  locusts,  which  are  supposed  to 
have  been  blown  from  oif  the  Arabian  coast.  To-day 
we  are  abreast  of  the  mouth  of  the  great  Euphrates 
Kiver,  which  has  its  outlet  in  the  Indian  Ocean. 

Fehruary  2'ltli. — Weather  charming,  and  ship  under 
full  sail.  Thermometer  80°.  Course  west  by  south  ;  lati- 
tude 13°  42'  north,  longitude  49°  1'  east.  Distance  I'un, 
up  to  12  M.,  one  hundred  and  eighty-three  miles.  This 
kind  of  weather,  in  the  latitude  of  the  Indian  Ocean^ 
commonly  continues  for  six  months  of  the  year.  The 
monsoons  are  similar  to  the  trade-winds  upon  the  Amer- 
ican Pacific  coast,  and  render  it  quite  as  pleasant  to  be 
on  sea  as  upon  the  land. 

Fehruary  2Sth. — This  morning  early  we  saw  many 
flying-fish  skipping  over  the  unruffled  sea.  The  weather 
still  continues  fine,  and  the  ship  under  full  sail.  Ther- 
mometer 81°.  Course  west  by  south;  latitude  12°  55^^ 
north,  longitude  46°  15'  east.     Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.> 


BOMBAY    TO    SUEZ. 


303 


one  hundred  and  seventy-one  miles.  Later  in  the  after- 
noon we  are  off  Aden,  sixteen  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  Bombay.  There  is  nothing  very  striking  in  the 
appearance  of  the  town.  It  is  a  mass  of  rock  connected 
with  the  mainland  by  a  low,  sandy  neck,  the  rock  tower- 
ing up  to  the  height  of  seventeen  hundred  and  seventy- 


ADEN. 


six  feet.  It  was  held  by  the  Portuguese  during  the 
height  of  their  power  in  the  East.  The  Turks  captured 
it  in  1538,  and  held  it  for  three  centuries.  In  1839,  for 
an  outrage  committed  upon  a  vessel  sailing  under  Eng- 
lish colors,  the  British  Government  seized  the  place, 
strengthened  its  fortifications,  and  have  kept  a  large  gar- 


304  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

rison  upon  it  ever  .since.  On  account  of  its  strength  it 
is  called  the  "  Gil)raltar  of  the  East,"  for  its  command- 
ing po;^ition  near  the  Red  Sea.  It  seldom  rains  at  Aden, 
sometimes  three  or  four  years  elapsing  without  a  drop 
falling  from  the  clouds ;  even  when  it  rains  on  the  main- 
land near  by,  it  passes  over  Aden.  To  supply  the  town 
witli  water,  the  authorities  have  excavated  immense 
tanks  in  the  solid  rock  to  collect  the  rainfall  when  it 
does  occur,  and  where  the  precious  iluid  is  preserved  for 
years.  Aden  is  now  principally  used  as  a  coaling-sta- 
tion. All  ships  passing  through  the  Red  Sea  to  and 
from  India  stop  at  Aden  to  take  in  coal,  w^hich  is  brought 
from  England  in  sailing-ships  by  way  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  and  deposited  here  for  the  use  of  her  steam- 
ships. 

February  29th. — We  have  now  entered  the  Red  Sea, 
ninety  miles  from  Aden.  This  forenoon  we  pass,  loom- 
ing up  from  the  sea,  the  twelve  small  islands  called  the 
Twelve  Apostles ;  shortly  after  we  go  through  the  straits 
of  Bab-el-Mandeb,  or  what  are  called  by  old  sailors  the 
Gate  of  Tears.  We  are  now  having  the  shores  of  Arabia 
on  one  side  and  Africa  on  the  other,  both  of  which  can 
be  seen  with  the  naked  eye.  To-day  the  weather  is  very 
tine,  and  the  water  perfectly  smooth.  Our  ship  is  still 
running  before  the  monsoon,  under  sail.  Thermometer 
76°.  Course  north  by  west;  latitude  12°  40'  north,  lon- 
gitude 48°  24'  east.  Distance  run,  u])  to  12  m.,  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-two  miles. 

This  afternoon  we  passed  by  the  city  of  Mocha,  on 
the  Arabian  side.     This  region  forms  the  great  coffee- 


BOMBAY    TO    SUEZ.  305 

growing  district,  whose  fine  product  is  shipped  to  many- 
parts  of  the  world.  The  Arabs  also  trade  in  frankin- 
cense, myrrh,  amber,  and  ostrich-feathers ;  they  likewise 
supj)ly  the  passing  ships  with  fruit,  mostly  dates,  and 
with  mutton  of  the  Berber  sheep.  This  small  animal  is 
invariably  white,  with  a  black  head. 

March  \st. — Weather  very  fine.  Last  night  the  ship 
ran  out  of  the  gentle  northeast  monsoon,  which  has  ac- 
companied us  all  the  way  from  India.  This  forenoon 
we  pass  by  the  Jebel  Teir  Island,  located  nearly  in  the 
centre  of  the  sea,  about  midway  from  either  shore.  The 
Ked  Sea  occupies  but  a  small  space  upon  the  maj),  and 
yet  it  is  over  thirteen  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  its 
greatest  width  is  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  To-day 
the  ship's  course  is  west-northwest ;  wind  southeast,  all 
sail  set.  Latitude  15°  17'  north,  longitude  40°  41'  east. 
Distance  run,  uj)  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  eighty-seven 
miles. 

March  2d. — The  Red  Sea  is  by  old  sailors  conceded  to 
be  one  of  the  most  dangerous  in  the  world  to  navigate. 
The  water  is  of  great  depth,  but  rocks  and  islands  are 
scattered  through  it,  and  coral-reefs  abound,  which  sel- 
dom lift  their  heads  above  the  waves  to  warn  the  sailor 
of  his  danger.  Ships  are  often  lost  in  tliick  weather  by 
the  unexpected  changes  of  currents.  The  countries  on 
both  sides  of  the  sea  are  inhabited  by  wild  and  barbar- 
ous people.  There  is  now  a  fearful  war  raging  in 
Abyssinia,  on  the  African  coast,  between  the  Egyptians 
and  Abyssinians.  To-day  the  weather  is  clear.  Ther- 
mometer 80°.      Course  west-northwest ;  latitude  17°  42' 


30(3  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

nortli,  longitude  39°  52'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,, 
one  hundred  and  seventy-five  miles. 

March  3d. — Weather  clear,  wind  blowing  a  gale  from 
northw^est.  Thermometer  76°.  Course  west-northwest ; 
latitude  19°  27'  north,  longitude  39°  2'  east.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m.,  one  hundred  and  fifteen  miles.  The  gale 
became  so  terrific  that  Captain  Hamilton  ordered  the 
sailors  aloft  to  send  the  light  spars  and  topsail-yards 
upon  deck,  in  order  to  relieve  the  laboring  ship.  We 
were  not,  however,  without  w^arning  of  this  gale,  for  the 
captain  said,  some  two  or  three  days  ago,  when  the 
weather  w^as  fine,  that  we  should  encounter  a  succession 
of  gales,  and  that  we  had  better  prej)are  for  the  event. 
It  is  a  most  singular  phenomenon,  that  these  gales  on 
the  Red  Sea  should  be  so  res^ular  in  their  course.  It 
commonly  blows  at  this  place  a  gale  from  two  distinctly 
opposite  points,  both  up  and  down  the  sea,  at  the  same 
time,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  leaving  an 
intermediate  space  of  nearly  a  dead  calm  for  one  hun- 
dred miles  between  the  two  currents  of  wind.  Sailing- 
ships  are  scarcely  ever  seen  on  this  sea,  native  crafts 
excepted,  and  these  are  often  utterly  lost,  or  wrecked. 

March  \th. — The  gale  continued  all  through  last 
night,  and  to-day  we  occasionally  ship  a  heavy  sea,  wash- 
ing the  decks  from  stem  to  stern ;  but  the  w^eather  over- 
head is  perfectly  clear,  and  scarcely  a  cloud  to  be  seen. 
Thermometer  76°.  Course  west-nortlnvest ;  latitude  21° 
34'  north,  longitude  37°  46'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to 
12  M.,  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  miles. 

March  5th. — Last  night  we  left  the  gale  astern ;  to- 


BOMBAY    TO    SUEZ.  3O7 

day  the  weather  is  delightful,  with  little  or  no  wind. 
The  passengers  are  all  in  high  glee  and  full  of  life,  as  is 
always  the  case  at  sea  after  having  a  gale  of  wind. 
Thermometer  76°.  Ship's  course  west-northwest;  lati- 
tude 21°  34'  north,  longitude  37°  46'  east.  Distance 
run,  up  to  12  m,,  one  hundred  and  sixty-six  miles. 

March  Qth. — ^To-day  we  approach  the  opposite  wind, 
but  it  is  fair,  and  not  as  terrific  as  the  last  gale,  which 
was  ahead ;  tlie  weather,  nevertheless,  is  very  fine.  Ther- 
mometer 75°.  Course  west-northwest;  latitude  26°  19' 
north,  longitude  34°  06'  east.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m., 
one  hundred  and  fifty-five  miles.  Captain  Hamilton 
runs  the  ship  at  a  slo^v  rate,  lest  the  coal  may  fall  short 
before  reaching  Suez.  Last  night  a  large  ball  of  fire  was 
seen  by  the  ofiicers  and  sailors  of  the  ship  to  fall  from 
the  heavens  into  the  sea,  which  incident  furnished  a  to23ic 
of  conversation  for  the  passengers  during  the  day. 

Marcli  ^th. — Weather  fine,  sea  smooth.  Thermometer 
75°.  Course  west-northwest ;  latitude  28°  3'  north,  loufji- 
tude33°  5'  east.  Distance  run,  u]^  to  12  m.,  one  hundred 
and  sixty-four  miles.  We  have  now  eighty-five  miles  to 
make  to  I'each  Suez.  At  mid-day  we  are  abreast  of 
Mount  Sinai,  which  peak  can  be  seen  through  a  good 
glass.  It  was  at  the  base  of  this  mount  that  the  Israelites 
pitched  their  tents  when  on  their  journey  into  the  prom- 
ised land,  and  where  Moses  went  up  into  the  mount  and 
procured  the  tables  of  stone,  with  the  Ten  Command- 
ments written  thereon,  for  the  government  of  the  chib 
dren  of  Israel,  by  Him  who  rules  the  universe. 

March  Sth. — This  morning  we  pass  over  the  tracks 


308  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

upon  the  Red  Sea  where  the  Israelites  are  supposed  to 
have  crossed.  There  is  no  doubt  in  reg-ard  to  the  route 
by  which  they  came  from  Succoth  to  the  sea.  It  is 
clearly  defined  by  the  general  features  of  the  countiy — 
a  precipitous  mountain-range  forming  a  deep  ravine, 
stretching  from  the  sea  in  a  westerly  direction,  from 
which  they  could  not  diverge.  Pharaoh  and  his  host 
were  in  their  rear,  and  they  had  fled  until  they  could  go 
no  farther — a  mountain-wall  was  on  one  side,  and  the 
deep  sea  on  the  other.  At  the  j^oint  to  which  I  refer 
the  Red  Sea  must  be  from  five  to  six  miles  in  width, 
and  of  great  depth,  for  our  ship,  drawing  twenty-two  feet 
of  water,  passed  over  the  supposed  track.  The  Egyptians 
pursuing  the  Israelites  went  after  them  into  the  midst 
of  the  sea,  even  all  Pharaoh's  horses,  his  chariots  and  his 
horsemen.  It  was  in  the  midst  of  the  very  waves  that 
they  proposed  to  turn  back,  when  they  found  that  the 
Lord  was  fio-htins:  for  the  Israelites  and  as-ainst  them- 
selves.  They  accordingly  turned  and  fled ;  but  when 
the  sea  fell  from  its  walls  and  returned  to  its  bed,  of  the 
vast  army  that  had  gone  into  it  there  remained  not  so 
much  as  one  of  them. 

Doubtless,  the  drying  up  of  the  waters  of  the  Red 
Sea  was  not  effected  alone  by  the  strong  east  wind,  for 
the  children  of  Israel  went  into  the  bed  of  the  sea  upon 
dry  ground,  and  the  waters  were  a  wall  unto  them  on 
their  right  and  on  their  left.  The  Holy  Scriptures  show 
that  it  was  a  sublime  miracle.  If  the  Israelites  had 
taken  a  more  northerly  route,  they  could  have  passed 
around  the  head  of  the  Red  Sea  over  dry  ground,  and  it 


BOMBAY    TO    SUEZ.  309 

would  not  have  taken  them  more  than  a  day's  march  to 
have  brought  them  opposite  to  the  point  where  they  did 
cross.  And  they  could  have  also  traveled  over  the 
sandy  desert  into  Palestine  or  the  promised  land  in  forty 
days  instead  of  forty  years,  but  this  short  route  was  not 
consistent  with  the  divine  will ;  neither  would  their 
enemies,  the  Egyptians,  in  that  case,  have  been  destroyed 
by  the  angry  and  rushing  waters  of  the  Red  Sea  if  the 
Israelites  had  taken  their  own  way.  They  had  no  choice 
as  to  the  course  which  they  should  take,  for  they  were 
guided  and  ruled  over  by  a  higher  power — by  Him  who 
led  them  on  by  a  pillar  of  cloud  by  day,  and  a  pillar  of 
fire  by  night. 

About  nine  o'clock  this  morning  our  ship  drops  her 
anchor  near  the  mouth  of  the  Su6z  Canal,  through  which 
she  is  to  pass  en  route  for  England,  and  by  her  I  sent 
one  of  my  heavy  trunks,  to  be  left  in  Liverpool,  thus 
saving  both  the  expense  and  trouble  of  carriage  across 
the  Continent. 

Previous  to  leaving  the  ship,  the  passengers  joined  in 
presenting  Captain  Hamilton  a  letter,  expressing  their 
sympathy  and  kindly  regard  for  the  marked  attention 
and  gentlemanly  treatment  received  at  his  hands  dur- 
ing the  pleasant  voyage  of  sixteen  days  from  India  to 
Egypt. 

We  are  landed  by  the  natives  upon  the  custom-house 
dock,  where  we  supposed  that  our  trunks  would  be 
turned  inside  out  by  the  authorities ;  but,  instead  of  an 
examination,  the  officer  in  charge  requested  backshish. 
One  of  the  party  gave  a  rupee,  and  we  passed  through 


310  AROUND    TEE   WORLD. 

and  put  up  at  tlie  Suez  Hotel ;  price  for  board  eighty 
piasters  per  day,  which  is  equal  to  four  dollars  of  our 
currency.  The  piaster  is  the  Egyptian  standard  of 
money ;  one  piaster  is  equal  in  value  to  five  cents  Ameri- 
can coin. 


CHAPTEK   XXX. 

EGYPT. 

Suez,  like  Aden,  presents  nothing  very  striking  to 
the  tourist.  The  city  is  situated  on  a  low,  sandy  j)lain, 
and  for  some  cause  or  other  they  scarcely  ever  have  any 
rainfall.  A  stream  of  fresh  water  has  been  brought 
through  the  desert  from  the  Xile,  which  supplies  the 
most  pressing  wants  of  the  town,  which  is  said  to  con- 
tain thirty  thousand  inhabitants.  The  houses  are  purely 
Oriental,  and  not  very  inviting ;  they  are  one  story  high, 
and  built  of  clay.  The  town  is  surrounded  on  all  sides 
by  the  sandy  desert,  and  whatever  is  consumed  in  the 
place  is  brought  from  abroad.  The  Suez  Canal  Com- 
pany has  made  a  safe  harbor  here  with  convenient 
wharves,  used  chiefly  by  ships  coming  and  going  through 
the  canal,  and  by  the  railroad  company. 

The  Suez  Canal  is  one  of  the  chief  improvements  in 
the  East,  opening  up  a  great  highway  of  commerce  be- 
tween Europe  and  Asia,  and  bringing  the  two  continents 
into  closer  connection  with  each  other.  The  canal  is 
€ighty-seven  miles  in  length,  built  over  the  desert,  con- 
sisting of  a  level,  sandy  plain  through  a  chain  of  small 
lagoons,  having  its  terminus  at  Port  Said,  u2:)on  the 
Mediterranean,  at  one  end,  and  Suez,  on  the  Red  Sea,  at 
the  other.     The  canal  has  an  average  width  of  seventy- 


312  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

two  feet  at  the  bottom,  and  two  Inmdred  feet  at  the 
surface,  with  a  depth  of  twenty-six  feet ;  the  water  in 
the  two  seas  is  on  the  same  level,  and  the  canal  has  no 
locks.  Steamships  pay  two  dollars  per  ton,  according  to 
their  registers,  for  the  privilege  of  passing  through. 
There  are  few  if  any  sailing-ships  which  make  the  pas- 
sage, for  the  reason  that  the  tariif  is  higher  than  they 
can  aiford  to  pay,  and  the  navigation  of  the  Red  Sea  is 
dangerous  for  sailing-vessels ;  hence  sailing-ships  bound 
to  the  Indies  go  around  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope. 

The  Suez  Canal  was  not  altogether  a  ncAv  idea  on  the 
part  of  its  modern  projectors.  The  ancient  Egyptians, 
it  is  believed,  had  some  sort  of  communication  by  water 
across  the  isthmus.  In  1798,  Napoleon  I.,  then  com- 
manding the  French  expedition  to  Egypt,  proposed 
opening  a  ship-canal  through  the  same  route.  A  com- 
mission appointed  to  make  the  survey  reported  that  the 
Ked  Sea  was  thirty  feet  lower  than  the  Mediterranean. 
This  was  considered  a  fatal  objection,  and  the  enterprise 
was  abandoned.  But,  when  the  survey  was  made  in 
1830  for  the  opening  of  the  canal,  they  found  the  two 
seas  on  the  same  level. 

March  9th. — ^This  morning  we  leave  by  the  Egyptian 
8  A.  M.  train  en  route  for  Cairo ;  distance  one  hundred 
and  eighty  miles;  fare  for  each  person  three  hundred 
and  fifty  piasters.  We  ride  along  the  margin  of  the 
Suez  Canal  some  forty  miles,  till  we  come  to  Ismailia, 
which  town  sprung  suddenly  into  existence  by  the  touch 
of  the  canal.     After   the  completion   of  the  canal  the 


EGYPT.  313 

kliedive  appointed  a  day  for  a  celebration  of  tlie  great 
enterprise.     He  invited  Napoleon,  tlie  imperial  patron 
of  the  work,  and  tlie  empress,  and  all  tlie  kings  and 
queens  and  princes  of  the  world,  to  come  to  Ismailia, 
where  was   given  a  grand  entertainment.      Since  then 
Ismailia  has  become  of  considerable  note,  and  is  building 
up  rapidly.     After  leaving  Ismailia  we  struck  out  into 
the  desert,  and  for  several  hours  traversed  the   sandy 
waste,  forming  a  picture  of  desolation.     Now  and  then 
we  came  upon   some  weary  travelers,  who  with  camels 
or  donkeys  were  dragging  their  way  through  the  lonely 
desert  upon  some  foi'eign  pilgrimage.     Early  in  the  after- 
noon we  approached  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  on  the  same 
route  which  Abraham  took  when  he  went  into  Egypt 
to  escape  the  threatened  famine,  and  by  which  the  sons 
of  Jacob  went  down  to  buy  corn.     It  is  also  the  section 
of  country  in  which  the  Israelites  dwelt  four  hundred 
and  thirty  years.     This  plain  is  rich  in  fertility,  and 
dotted  with  small  towns  and  cities.     The  foundations 
upon  which  these  towns  are  built  are  raised,  by  artificial 
earth,  several  feet  above  the  level  of  the  country,  for 
protection  against  the  rise  and  inundation  of  the  river 
Nile,  which  commonly  occurs  in  the  autumn  of  every 
year.     These  towns  are  chiefly  inhabited  by  farmers  and 
shepherds.     They  still  hold  to  the  traditions  spoken  of 
in  the  Bible ;  they  have  no  barns  in  which  to  store  their 
crops,  but  do  their  thrashing  in  the  "field.     We  caught 
sight  of  the  great  Pyi'amids,  at  least  forty  miles  distant, 
with  all  their  gigantic  majesty  looming  up  to  the  clouds. 
They  may  well  be  ranked  among  the  great  wonders  of 

21 


314 


AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 


the  world.  For  a  while  we  almost  forgot  that  we  were 
travelers  from  the  New  World,  and  fell  to  meditating 
upon  the  land  in  which  we  found  ourselves — upon  tlie 
Pharaohs    and   the   j)atriarchs  —  until   warned   hy    the 


CAIRO. 


steam- whistle  that  we  had  arrived  in  the  ancient  city  of 
Cairo,  where  we  were  immediately  besieged  by  a  host 
of  hotel-runners,  dragomen,  crowds  of  donkeys  and  don- 
key-boys, porters,  and  beggars,  reminding  us  of  the 
Egyptian  plagues.     But   the  beggars  are   not   now   as 


EGTPT.  3]^  5 

prevalent  as  when  I  was  here  eight  years  ago ;  then  they 
were  like  the  frogs  of  the  aucient  2:>lague  which  ascended 
into  the  very  bedchambers.  Finally,  among  the  dense 
crowd,  we  at  length  succeeded  in  getting  a  carriage,  and 
rode  to  Sheplieard's  Hotel,  where  we  arrived  just  before 
sunset;  board  sixty  piasters  a  day.  This  hotel  is  the 
best-kept  house  in  Cairo. 

The  jjopulation  of  Egypt  is  reputed  to  be  eight  mill- 
ions, composed  chieily  of  two  classes.  The  most  influ- 
ential class  consists  of  immigrants,  or  sojourners,  from 
Europe.  They  lead  in  commerce,  banking,  and  manu- 
factures, and  retain,  by  virtue  of  treaties  between  the 
sultan  and  Christian  Euroj^ean  countries,  their  respective 
nationalities  and  allegiance.  They  are  not  only  exempt 
from  the  judicial  authority  of  the  Egyptian  Government, 
but  also  from  taxation.  Thus  they  constitute  a  govern- 
ing class  independent  of  the  government  itself.  The 
native  class  is  of  a  mixed  race.  A  small  portion  are 
Copts,  descendants  of  the  ancient  Egyptians.  Those 
li\^ng  near,  and  on  the  Mediterranean  coast,  are  chiefly 
of  Arabian  extraction  and  are  mostly  Mohammedans. 
Besides  these,  there  are  Nubians,  Abyssinians,  and  many 
other  African  races. 

Over  all  these  native  races  the  khedive  exercises  ab- 
solute power.  He  taxes  at  his  will,  and  confiscates  at 
his  pleasure.  The  majority  of  his  subjects  are  sincere 
and  bigoted  in  their  religious  faith.  The  khedive's  ad- 
ministration is  a  personal  one ;  every  transaction  of  the 
government  is  conducted  with  his  personal  knowledge 
and  by  his  direction,  and  without  his  sanction  nothing 


316  ABOUND    THE    WORLD. 

can  be  done.  It  is  due  to  the  khedive  to  say  tliat  his 
administration  is  successful,  and  even  popular.  He  has 
done  much  for  the  improvement  of  Cairo,  by  pulling' 
down  old  buildings,  and  erecting  more  substantial  and 
modern  ones  in  their  stead ;  widening  and  straightening 
the  streets,  etc.  He  has  already  extended  the  Alexan- 
dria  &o  Cairo  Railroad  several  hundred  miles  toward 
Upper  Egypt,  and  intends  to  carry  it  to  the  Soudan,  the 
extreme  southern  province  of  his  dominions.  He  is  indi- 
vidually the  largest  land-proprietor  and  agriculturist  in 
Egypt.  I  am  informed  that  he  owns  one-iifth  of  the 
tillable  land  of  the  country,  and  is  reputed  to  be  im- 
mensely wealthy.  What  is  more  marvelous  is,  that  he 
superintends  his  personal  estate,  as  well  as  his  public 
aifairs. 

Khedive  is,  in  modern  Egypt,  the  title  for  which  the 
Europeans  use  the  word  viceroy.  The  present  khedive 
is  a  son  of  the  eminent  Ibrahim  Pasha,  and  grandson 
of  Mehemet  Ali.  He  succeeded  his  uncle.  Said  Pasha^ 
in  1863,  and  is  now  about  sixty  years  old.  By  a  treaty 
which  he  made  some  few  years  ago  with  the  sultan,  the 
succession  is  confirmed  in  his  family  in  a  direct  line.  He 
was  educated  in  France,  speaks  both  English  and  French 
fluently,  and  his  appearance  is  decidedl}'  European.  He 
has  several  large  and  most  magnificent  palaces,  and  lives 
in  great  splendor.  Every  day  we  saw  him,  accompanied 
by  some  of  the  members  of  his  family,  riding  past  our 
hotel. 

March  10th. — The  history  of  Egypt  extends  back  to 
a  period  three  or  four  thousand  years  before  the  birth  of 


EGYPT.  31 7^ 

Clirist,  and  many  of  its  monuments  are  tlie  oldest  human 
handiwork  existing  in  the  world.  It  was  a  powerful  and 
wealthy  kingdom  in  the  days  of  Joseph.  Moses  was 
•educated  in  its  schools,  in  order  to  fit  him  for  the  guid- 
ance of  the  Jewish  people  into  the  promised  land.  Egypt 
is  conceded  to  have  been  the  cradle  of  the  world's  civili- 
zation; Greece  derived  its  arts  and  its  sciences  from 
lEgypt.  She  also  taught  imperial  Rome ;  and  from  Rome 
the  waves  of  knowledge  spread  all  over  Western  Europe. 
But  Egypt,  like  Greece  and  Rome,  to-day  does  not  enjoy 
that  high  degree  of  civilization  which  she  did  centuries 
ago.  She  has  also  lost  that  polished  literature,  and  the 
arts  and  sciences  practised  by  her  forefathers,  and  her 
people  have  become  a  benighted  race. 

March  11th, — To-day  we  ride  out  to  the  citadel,  not 
so  much  to  see  the  structure  itself,  or  the  grand  mosque, 
as  for  the  panoramic  view  of  the  city  and  the  valley  of 
the  Nile,  which  it  commands.  This  magnificent  sight 
alone  would  pay  a  traveler  for  coming  to  this  far-off 
country,  even  if  he  should  see  nothing  else.  As  we  stand 
ujDou  this  bold  parapet,  the  whole  of  Cairo,  both  ancient 
and  modern,  lies  at  our  feet.  On  the  borders  of  the  city 
flows  the  Nile,  winding  its  way  through  the  lovely  valley 
until  lost  in  the  distance,  and  containing  the  little  island 
of  Rhoda,  upon  whose  borders  Moses  was  found  in  the 
bulrushes  by  the  king's  daughter.  The  Pyramids  and 
the  Sphinx,  which  are  but  a  few  miles  off,  sit  now,  as 
they  did  forty  or  fifty  centuries  ago,  in  silent  majesty. 

Although  the  citadel  has  been  rendered  unreliable  as 
a  fortress,  it  very  justly  excites  admiration.     Like  those 


318  AROUND    TEE   WORLD. 

in  India  whicli  we  saw,  it  is  a  combination  of  fortifica- 
tions, palaces,  and  mosques.  It  stands  on  a  bluff  three 
"hundred  feet  above  the  Nile.  A  well,  whicli  supplies 
water  to  the  citadel,  is  an  object  of  much  curiosity  and 
interest.  It  was  excavated  by  Saladin,  and  is  com- 
monly known  as  Joseph's  Well.  It  is  two  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  deep,  and  consists  of  two  stories  or  cham- 
bers ;  the  water  is  raised  from  the  bottom,  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet,  into  the  first  chamber,  worked  by  men 
stationed  at  the  bottom,  thence  it  is  brought  to  the  top 
of  the  well  by  another  mechanical  process.  A  winding- 
staircase  leads  from  top  to  bottom. 

In  the  citadel  is  the  court  in  which  the  Mamelukes 
were  treacherously  massacred,  by  order  of  Mehemet  Ali^ 
in  1811.  Here  stands  one  of  the  khedive's  numerous 
palaces,  occupied  by  one  of  the  princes.  But  the  most 
imposing  modern  structure  in  the  citadel  is  the  mosque 
of  Mehemet  Ali.  This  mosque,  by  reason  of  its  advan- 
tageous site,  its  grand  dimensions,  and  its  lofty  dome  and 
minarets,  is  the  most  conspicuous  and  admired  object  in 
Cairo.  It  is  constructed,  both  within  and  without,  in- 
cluding walls,  columns,  and  dome,  of  white  alabaster. 
The  tomb  in  which  the  remains  of  Mehemet  Ali  rest  is 
very  beautiful ;  the  sarcophagus  is  of  alabaster,  covered 
with  rich  tapestry. 

The  Jews,  in  the  time  of  the  Pharaohs,  found  Egypt 
a  storehouse  of  corn;  the  Greeks  and  Romans,  at  a  later 
period,  found  it  a  storehouse  of  monuments  and  relics,  and 
eagerly  carried  them  away.  The  spoils  of  Egypt  are  seen 
in  Rome,  Naples,  Paris,  Berlin,  Constantinople,  Amster- 


EGYPT.  319 

dam,  and  even  in  London.  But  to-day  we  iind  Egypt  in 
a  state  of  transition,  gradually  emergiDg  from  a  condition 
of  darkness  into  a  more  enlightened  civilization. 

March  12th.  —  To-day  we  attend  the  Presbyterian 
Mission  church ;  preaching  in  Arabic  by  Dr.  Lansing. 
The  doctor  informed  us  that  the  mission-work  in  Cairo 
was  greatly  on  the  increase.  There  are  now"  three  thou- 
sand nominal  Christians,  and  six  hundred  communicants, 
in  all  Egypt.  During  the  last  five  years,  the  number 
has  more  than  doubled. 

March  \?>tli. — The  camel  and  donkey  do  the  work  of 
vehicles  in  all  parts  of  Egypt,  carrying  merchandise  and 
products — even  sacks  of  brick,  stone,  earth,  and  timber — 
upon  their  backs.  When  the  camel  is  to  receive  his 
load,  he  is  instructed  to  f:dl  upon  his  knees,  and,  when 
loaded,  to  rise,  go  to  his  place  of  destination,  and  again 
kneel  until  his  load  is  discharged.  When  a  camel  is 
loaded,  he  will  cry,  signifying  that  he  has  as  much  bur- 
den as  he  can  carry.  The  donkey  is  also  a  very  useful 
animal,  and  can  carry  as  large  loads  on  his  back  as  one 
of  our  ordinary  horses ;  yet,  he  is  not  one-quarter  the 
size  of  a  horse.  But,  since  Cairo  and  Alexandria  have 
become  more  modernized,  business -men  have  brought 
into  use  English  horses  and  carts,  with  which  they  can 
do  more  than  doul)le  the  work  formerly  accomplished. 
The  streets  are  filled  with  saddled  donkeys  going  hither 
and  thither,  led  by  donkey -boys,  soliciting  strangers  to 
ride.  Here,  as  in  India,  caravans  are  numerous.  More 
than  a  hundred  camels  may  sometimes  be  seen  on  the 
desert,  eitlier  loaded  with  pilgrims — consisting  of  men, 


320  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

women,  and  cliildren — or  merchandise.  It  is  said  that 
it  is  not  uncommon  for  one  train  to  brino;  in  enouo-h  cot- 
ton,  sugar,  tobacco,  or  corn,  to  load  an  ordinary  sailing- 
ship,  and  they  are  often  from  four  to  six  weeks  on  their 
jonrney.  It  is  a  most  interesting  sight  to  see  a  caravan 
in  the  distance,  esj^ecially  crossing  the  desert;  they  re- 
semble a  line  of  merchant-ships  more  than  anything  else. 
The  pyramids  may  well  be  classed  with  the  great 
wonders  of  the  world.  Underneath  these  monuments 
lies  the  dust  of  Egypt's  early  kings.  They  are  immense 
structures,  that  of  Cheops  measuring  seven  hundred  and 
sixty-four  feet  at  its  base,  and  gradually  tapering  up 
to  the  height  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  feet.  They 
have  doubtless  cost  more  to  build  than  the  ancient  city 
of  Cairo,  which  contains  over  four  hundred  thousand  in- 
hal)itants.  Two  of  the  largest  of  them  stand  about  one- 
eighth  of  a  mile  apart.  The  stone  of  which  they  are 
built  is  supposed  to  have  been  brought  from  Thebes, 
some  six  hundred  miles  up  the  Nile.  Some  of  the  larger 
blocks  are  twenty  feet  long,  and  from  five  to  six  feet 
thick.  I  saw  an  estimate,  made  by  a  scientific  gentle- 
man, which  shows  that  there  is  stone  enough  in  these 
two  pyramids  to  build  a  wall,  four  feet  high  and  eight 
inches  thick,  reachino;  from  New  Yoik  to  San  Francisco ! 
The  natives  are  at  a  loss  to  know  how  these  immense 
blocks  of  stone  were  transported  from  such  a  great  dis- 
tance without  the  use  of  machinery  and  wheel-carriaoes, 
and  say  that  the  modern  inhabitants  are  incomj)etent, 
and  have  not  the  knowledge  necessary,  to  enable  them 
to  erect   such  stupendous  structures  at  the  present  day 


EGYPT. 


321 


These  two  pyramids  are  situated  about  five  miles  from, 
tlie  city  of  Cairo,  on  the  very  edge  of  the  Great  Sahara 
Desert,  which  is  covered  with  sand-hills.  When  the  wind 
blows  hard  it  is  impossible  to  see,  on  account  of  the 
dense  clouds  of  sand,  which   shift  and  roll  up  like  the 


THE    tPHLNX. 


waves  of  the  ocean.  It  requires  several  weeks  of  hard 
labor  for  a  caravan  of  camels  to  cross  over  this  vast 
desert,  and  during  a  heavy  gale  of  wind  they  are  com- 
pelled to  pitch  their  tents  and  remain  until  it  abates. 
I  am  informed  that,   after  a  gale,   they  have  often  to 


322  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

excavate  their  way  out  from  the  sand-banks  that  have 
formed  over  their  tents  during  its  continuance. 

The  Sphinx  is  situated  within  a  few  hundred  feet  of 
the  pyramids,  and  is  a  colossal  figure  hewed  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  excepting  the  fore-paws,  which  have  been 
attached ;  it  is  an  enormous  monster  with  gigantic  arms, 
between  which  w'as  formerly  held  a  miniature  temple, 
with  a  flight  of  steps  to  approach  it.  In  former  times 
its  head  bore  either  the  royal  helmet,  or  the  ram's-horns. 
It  is  sixty-three  feet  high,  its  human-shaped  head  twelve 
feet  long,  the  nose  four  feet  long,  and  the  mouth  two  feet, 
wide.  It  is  conceded  by  many  to  be  the  most  wonder- 
ful of  the  Egyptian  monuments,  and  the  more  I  looked 
at  it,  the  more  striking  it  appeared.  Most  people  never 
weary  in  gazing  upon  its  human  form.  When  and  for 
what  purpose  this  vast  image  was  constructed,  no  one  can 
give  a  satisfactory  account. 

The  Mohammedans  are  very  devout  in  their  mode  of 
worship.  They  have  no  altars  in  their  mosques ;  they 
worship  no  graven  images,  nor  pictures  of  any  kind. 
Before  entering  their  places  of  worship,  it  is  the  custom 
to  wash  their  hands  and  feet ;  others  strip  off*  and  wash 
their  entire  bodies,  in  a  fountain  of  water  in  an  outer 
court  kept  for  that  purpose.  When  they  enter  the 
mosque,  they  bow  again  and  again,  some  ten  or  twelve 
times,  and  at  length  prostrate  their  bodies  upon  the  mar- 
ble floor  with  their  faces  down,  and,  after  a  few  minutes 
of  silent  prayer,  rise  upon  their  feet,  make  as  many  genu- 
flections as  at  first,  and  leave  the  mosque.  They  have  as 
much  regard  for,  and  keep  Friday  as  saci'edly,  as  we  do 


EGYPT.  32S 

the  Christian  sabbath.  They  believe  in  Christ — that  he 
did  exist — and  that  he  was  a  great  prophet,  even  greater 
than  Moses,  but  do  not  look  upon  him  as  the  Saviour 
of  the  world.  Instead  of  accepting  Christ,  they  recognize 
Mohammed  as  their  prophet  and  mediator.  A  man  is 
stationed  at  the  entrance  to  the  mosque,  whose  duty  it 
is  to  furnish  visitors  with  slippers  to  put  on  their  feet 
lest  they  defile  the  floor. 

The  Arabians  are  the  descendants  of  Ishmael,  and 
half-brothers  of  the  Jews.  Abraham  had  two  sons — 
the  first-born,  Ishmael,  by  Hagar,  an  Egyptian  hand- 
maiden ;  the  second  son,  Isaac,  by  Sarah,  his  wife — both 
of  whom  received  the  blessing,  with  the  j^romise  that 
each  should  become  a  great  nation.  Hence  they  became 
two  distinct  peoples,  and  both  claim  Abraham  as  their 
father,  and  both  races  also  reject  Christ  as  the  Saviour 
of  the  world.  While  the  Je\YS  number  only  about  four 
million,  the  Arabs  and  their  various  offshoots  comprise 
some  ten  or  fifteen  million. 

Almost  every  spot  of  ground  in  and  around  Cairo  is 
classic  to  the  Christian  world.  This  is  the  land  in  which 
Joseph  ruled  over  the  Egyptians;  this  is  the  land  in 
which  the  sons  of  Jacob  came  to  buy  corn ;  this  is  the 
land  in  which  Jacob  and  his  descendants  dwelt  four  hun- 
dred and  thirty  years ;  this  is  also  the  land  into  which. 
Joseph  and  Mary  fled  with  the  infant  Jesus,  in  order  to 
escape  the  wrath  of  King  Herod  of  Judea.  When  Jacob 
entered  Egypt  his  family  only  consisted  of  seventy  souls ; 
when  they  took  their  departure,  after  the  lapse  of  four 
hundred  and  thirty  years,  they  had  increased  to  six  hun- 


324  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

dred  thousand  men,  besides  the  women  and  children  and 
a  mixed  multitude  who  went  out  with  them ;  doubtless 
the  entire  nation  amounted  in  all  to  over  a  million.  It 
must  have  been  a  grand  sight  to  those  who  witnessed 
the  exodus  of  this  large  concourse  of  people  marching 
on  foot,  through  the  country,  on  their  way  back  to  the 
promised  land.  As  I  gazed  over  the  large,  picturesque, 
and  fertile  plain,  dotted  with  the  royal  palm,  and  other 
scattering  Oriental  trees,  the  general  topography  and 
aspect  of  the  country  so  clearly  defined  by  the  sacred 
Scrij^ttures,  I  could  almost  imagine  that  I  saw  the  great 
host  on  their  march,  the  pillar  of  cloud  leading  them  on 
by  day,  and  the  heavy  curtain  hung  up  by  the  hand  of 
God  to  2^rotect  them  from  their  pursuers  by  night. 

This  morning  we  took  our  departure  from  Cairo  by 
the  eight  o'clock  train  for  Alexandria  ;  distance  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  fare  twenty-five  piasters  each. 
We  rode  the  greater  part  of  the  way  along  the  margin 
of  the  Nile,  the  country  rich  in  fertility  and  dotted  with 
towns  and  hamlets.  There  are  no  forests,  and  but  few 
groves,  except  of  the  date-palm,  and  orange  and  lemon 
trees,  with  an  occasional  sycamore,  acacia,  or  mulberry- 
tree.  The  chief  fruits  are  the  date,  grape,  fig,  pome- 
granate, banana,  many  kinds  of  melons,  and  the  olive ; 
the  vegetables  are  of  many  kinds  and  excellent  quality, 
forming  the  principal  food  of  the  common  people.  The 
most  important  field-products  are  wheat,  corn,  cotton, 
sugar-cane,  tobacco,  barley,  millet,  and  flax.  The  cattle 
that  we  saw  were  in  excellent  condition  ;  but  the  camels, 
which  make  long  journeys  in  crossing  the  deserts,  seemed 


EGYPT. 


325 


ill  fed  and  badly  kept.  The  birds  of  Egypt  are  not  re- 
markable for  beauty  of  plumage- — in  so  open  a  country 
this  is  natural ;  among  the  birds  of  prey,  the  most  com- 
mon are  of  the  scavenger  class,  such  as  the  vulture  and 
kite.     Among  the  reptiles  are  crocodiles,  frogs,  snakes, 


A  WOMAN   ON  THE   NILE. 


etc. ;  the  scorpion  is  found  in  the  desert.  Among  de- 
structive insects  are  locusts,  which  sometimes  come  upon 
the  cultivated  land  in  a  cloud.  Fleas  are  also  prevalent ; 
they  not  only  annoyed  us  in  the  streets,  but  follovred  us 
to  the  hotels,  and  even  besieged  the  bedchambers. 

The  inundation  of  the  Nile,  which  commonly  occurs 


^26  AROUND    TEE   WORLD. ^ 

once  a  year,  fertilizes  and  sustains  the  country  and  makes 
the  river  its  chief  blessing,  a  very  slight  overflow  or 
failure  of  risino-  beino-  the  cause  of  famine.  There  is 
scarcely  a  country  in  the  world  where  famine  has  raged 
so  terribly,  at  different  times,  as  in  the  land  of  Egypt. 
In  the  year  1199,  in  consequence  of  the  great  inunda- 
tion, a  terrible  famine  ensued,  accompanied  by  indescrib- 
able enormities.  Human  flesh  was  a  common  article 
of  food;  man-catching  became  a  regular  business;  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  poj)ulation  were  swept  away  by 
famine  and  disease.  Even  in  the  time  of  Joseph,  the 
famine  continued  unabated  for  seven  years,  all  the  money 
of  the  inhabitants  being  spent  in  purchasing  corn ;  they 
also  parted  with  their  horses,  flocks,  and  horned  cattle, 
and  the  very  land  which  they  cultivated  was  made  over 
to  the  sovereio;n,  in  consideration  of  their  receivino-  from 
the  j^ublic  stores  a  supply  of  food.  The  people  were  na 
longer  the  proj^rietors,  but  mere  cultivators  of  the  soil. 
The  soverei2:n  became  the  freeholder  of  the  entire  land 
in  the  kingdom,  and  his  subjects  were  to  pay  him  a  fifth 
jDart  of  the  produce  by  way  of  rent  for  the  lands  which 
they  occupied  (excepting  those  held  by  the  priests,  which 
were  not  sold),  and  eat  the  portion  of  food  which 
Pharaoh  gave  them.  It 'seldom  rains  in  Egypt,  except- 
ing at  the  time  of  the  equinoxes,  when  the  country  is 
inundated  like  India  during  the  overflow  of  the  Ganges, 
Indus,  and  other  large  rivers.  During  the  dry  seasons 
the  people  resort  to  artificial  irrigation.  As  we  ride 
along,  wells  may  be  seen  scattered  in  every  direction 
over  the  face  of  the  country,  both  men  and  women  being 


EGYPT.  32^ 

engaged  in  drawing  water  to  put  on  tlie  land.  We  ar- 
rive  in  Alexandria  at  1  p.  m.,  Laving  been  five  hours  on 
our  passage  from  Cairo,  and  take  board  in  tlie  Hotel 
de  I'Europe  at  sixty  2:>iasters  a  day. 

The  city  of  Alexandi'ia  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Nile,  facing  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and  contains 
about  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants.  It 
was  founded  by  Alexander  the  Great,  332  b.  c.  The 
people  are  a  mixed  race,  having  representatives  from 
almost  every  nation.  They  are  of  a  dark  copper-color, 
such  as  we  have  seen  in  Japan,  China,  and  India.  The 
women,  when  in  the  street,  wear  a  close  white  veil  with 
two  small  holes  in  front,  of  the  size  of  a  penny,  to  look 
through ;  and  were  it  not  for  the  veils  it  would  be  dif- 
ficult to  distinguish  the  men  from  the  women,  their  dress 
is  so  very  similar. 

Alexandria  is  a  famous  seaport  for  all  Egypt.  When 
I  was  here  in  1867  the  streets  were  not  paved,  and  it 
was  decidedly  the  most  filthy  city  that  I  had  ever  wit- 
nessed ;  but  since  then  many  of  the  narrow  streets  have 
been  both  widened  and  straightened,  and  paved  with, 
square  blocks  of  stone,  which  give  the  city  a  fine  appear- 
ance. The  more  distinctively  Oriental  part,  however, 
remains  with  the  same  narrow  streets,  excepting  that 
ttey  have  been  paved,  and  are  kept  cleaner  than  for- 
merly. Our  hotel  fronts  on  the  great  public  square, 
^hich  on  either  side  is  lined  with  fine  residences  in  the 
European  style.  It  seems  as  if  we  had  already  entered 
Europe,  and  left  Egypt  behind  us.  A  throng  of  fashion- 
ably-dressed Europeans  are  promenading  up  and  down 


328 


AROUND    THE    WORLD. 


POMPET's    FIIiLAB. 


tlie  square ;  and  Frencli  and  Englisli  equipages  are  seen 
driving  by.  The  khedive  lias  a  handsome  palace  here, 
in  which  he  resides  during  his  short  sojourn  in  Alex- 
andria. This  is  the  meeting-point  of  the  East  and  West, 
of  the  old  and  new  civilizations.  Here  are  camels,  don- 
keys, dock-yards,  arsenals,  steam-engines,  factories,  mills, 
and  many  other  modern  improvements,  indicating  that 
the  old  order  of  things  has  changed,  and  given  way  to 
the  new.     The  Oriental  part  of  the  town  abounds  with 


EGYPT.  329 

camels,  goats,  dogs,  and  Egyptian  donkeys,  the  latter 
being  used  for  carrying  people  and  merchandise  through 
the  streets,  and  upon  short  jaunts,  and  the  camels  are 
employed  in  long  journeys,  for  the  transportation  of  mer- 
chandise and  produce  across  the  desert. 

Pomj)ey's  Pillar  is  one  of  the  attractive  sights,  erected 
1495  B.  c. ;  it  stands  on  a  dreary  and  solitary  mound, 
which  overlooks  the  lake  and  the  modern  city.  It  is  a 
noble  Corinthian  column ;  the  fluted  shaft,  which  is 
formed  of  one  piece  of  red  granite,  is  seventy-three  feet 
high,  the  circumference  at  the  base  is  twenty-one  feet, 
gradually  diminishing  to  the  top.  At  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  city,  in  an  opposite  dii'ection,  stands  Cleo- 
patra's Needle,  formed  of  one  block  of  stone,  seventy 
feet  high.  Another  needle,  of  the  same  size  and  form  as 
the  first,  lies  upon  the  ground  partly  covered  with  sand. 
It  was  presented  to  the  British  Government  by  Mehemet 
Ali  in  1820,  Init  the  vast  expense  prevented  its  removal. 

Alexander  the  Great,  with  his  Macedonians,  entered 
and  conquered  the  country  332  b.  c.  After  him  came 
the  Greek  dynasty,  who  ruled  Egypt  till  it  became  a 
Koraan  province  under  Augustus  Caesar,  30  b.  c.  It  was 
overrun  by  the  Saracens  a.  d  640,  and  became  a  Turkish 
province  in  1517.  From  1805  to  1849  Mehemet  Ali  was 
23asha  and  Viceroy  of  Egypt ;  and  it  is  now  governed  by 
the  khedive,  Ismail  Pasha. 

The  Scriptures  have  been  strikingly  fulfilled  in  re- 
gard to  Egypt.  From  the  second  Persian  conquest,  more 
than  two  thousand  years  ago,  until  now,  not  a  single 
native  ruler  has  occupied  the  throne  of  Egypt. 

22 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


IVIEDITEKEANEAN     SEA. 


March  \Uh. — At  nine  o'clock  this  morning  we  take 
passage  on  board  the  French  steamship  Erymanthe,  for 
Naples;  distance  about  a  thousand  miles,  fare  two  hun- 
dred and  se\^enty-five  francs  apiece.  Alexandria  is  one 
of  the  principal  seaports  bordering  on  the  Mediterranean. 
As  we  are  leaving  the  port  we  see  flags  floating  to  the 
breeze  from  the  numerous  mast-heads,  representing  al- 
most every  nationality,  among  them  the  stars  and  stripes 
of  our  own  country.  There  are  several  lines  of  ships 
sailing  almost  daily  to  all  parts  of  the  Levant.  'Palestine 
may  be  reached  twice  a  week,  of  which  Jaifa,  three  hun- 
dred and  twelve  miles  distant,  is  the  chief  port  for  tour- 
ists to  the  Holy  Land  ;  time  twenty-four  hours.  I  hav- 
ing visited  Syria  and  Palestine  on  a  previous  tour,  we 
therefore  thought  it  best  to  go  direct  to  Italy. 

March  l^th. — Our  ship  is  filled  with  passengers  of 
all  nationalities — English,  Americans,  French,  Italians, 
Spaniards,  Egyptians,  and  Arabs — the  greater  part  of 
whom  are  first-class  people,  very  polite  and  graceful  in 
their  movements,  especially  the  ladies.  But  the  Mediter- 
ranean is  not  as  graceful  in  its  movements  as  some  of  the 
Eastern  seas  which  we  have  traversed.  It  generally 
takes  one  or  two  days  to  get  used  to  the  sea  and  to  one 


MEDITERRANEAN  SEA.  331 

another,  and  to  learn  each  other's  histories,  when  little 
groups  begin  to  form ;  distinct  nationalities  commonly 
flock  together,  s])ending  an  hour  or  two  either  on  deck 
or  in  the  saloon, 

March  16^A. — This  morning,  and  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  forenoon,  we  sailed  along  the  island  of  Crete, 
commonly  called  Candia.  This  is  one  of  the  large 
islands  of  the  Mediterranean,  it  being  one  hundred  and 
sixty  miles  in  length,  and  iifty  in  its  greatest  breadth, 
Christianity  was  introduced  into  this  island  by  the 
apostle  Paul,  who  left  Titus  here  as  its  minister  to  carry 
on  the  work  which  he  had  begun.  I  find,  by  referring  to 
my  log,  that  thus  far  we  have  traveled  by  sea  and  land 
about  twenty-one  thousand  and  seventy  miles,  of  which 
sixty-five  hundred  and  thirty  were  over  land,  and  four- 
teen thousand  five  hundred  and  forty  by  sea ;  the  distance 
in  a  straight  line  would  have  been  much  shorter,  but  we 
have  made  detours  both  up  and  down  as  well  as  around 
the  world,  all  the  way  in  search  of  the  far  West,  and  we 
have  no  knowledge  at  hand  to  show  how  much  farther 
we  have  to  travel  before  reaching  its  culminating  point. 
Neither  shall  we,  in  going  round  the  world,  be  able  to 
recover  the  20th  of  last  October,  which  we  virtually 
leaped  over  and  lost  from  the  calendar,  as  if  we  had  not 
lived  it,  although  by  the  canceled  day  we  really  lost  no 
time  from  life's  history.  I  am  told,  if  we  should  return 
to  America  by  the  way  we  came,  at  the  same  spot  upon 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  we  should  recover  the  day.  This  is  a 
^scientific  riddle,  however,  for  scholars  to  explain,  and  it 
might  form  a  feature  for  some  future  school  examinations^ 


332  AROUND    TEE   WORLD. 

March  Vlth. — This  afternoon  we  pass  through  the 
strait  of  Messina,  two  miles  in  width — the  beautiful 
island  of  Sicily  on  one  side,  and  the  coast  of  the  Italian 
Peninsula  on  the  other.  Here  we  see  the  volcano  Mount 
Etna,  looming  u})  into  the  clouds  in  all  its  majesty,  its 
summit  covered  with  snow,  while  at  the  base  vegetation 
is  in  bloom.  It  was  not  in  eruption,  although  we  could 
see  a  small  volume  of  smoke  at  intervals  issuing  from  its 
peak.  Mount  Etna  is  ten  thousand  eight  hundred  and 
seventy-two  feet  above  the  sea-level,  and  its  base  is 
twenty  miles  in  circumference. 

Sicily  is  the  largest,  finest,  most  fruitful,  and  most 
celebrated  island  in  the  Mediterranean.  Its  greatest 
length  is  about  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles,  by  one 
hundred  in  its  greatest  breadth.  It  was  in  ancient  times 
the  seat  of  many  flourishing  Greek  colonies,  and  the  pre- 
sumption is  that  its  population  then  was  double  what  it 
is  at  the  present  time.  It  has  undergone  many  bloody 
revolutions.  The  Carthaginians  once  held  it ;  then  the 
Komans ;  afterward  the  Goths ;  then  the  Saracens,  and 
again  the  Normans ;  afterward  the  French ;  and  now  it 
is  held  and  governed  by  Victor  Emmanuel  of  Italy. 
Messina,  situated  on  the  strait,  is  the  chief  city  of  the 
island,  and  is  a  prominent  seaport  for  the  shipment  of 
oranges  and  other  fruits  to  England  and  the  United 
States.  During  the  early  part  of  the  evening  we  passed 
by  the  volcano  Stromboli,  which  is  situated  upon  a  small 
island,  resembling  a  sugar-loaf.  Earthquakes  are  of  fre- 
quent occurrence  upon  the  islands  of  the  Mediterranean^ 
but  the  climate  is  pure  and  highly  salubrious. 


MEDITERRANEAN  SEA.  333 

March  IStli. — At  1  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  Naples,  having 
been  four  days  and  four  hours  on  our  j^assage  from 
Egypt.  After  our  luggage  had  undergone  a  slight  ex- 
amination by  the  custom-house  authorities,  we  rode  to 
the  Hotel  des  Etrangers,  getting  board  at  ten  lire  per  day 
each.  A  lira  is  equal  to  nineteen  and  one-fifth  cents  of 
American  coin,  and  is  the  standard  of  value  of  Italy. 


CHAPTEK  XXXII. 

ITALY  :    NAPLES,  EOME,  PISA,  GENOA,  TURIN. 

The  city  of  Naples  is  very  handsomely  situated  on 
the  side  of  a  mountain,  sloping  gradually  down  to  the 
Mediterranean  Sea,  winding  itself  round  a  spacious  and 
l)eautiful  bay,  and  contains  a  population  of  five  hundred 
thousand.  It  is  a  very  ancient  city,  founded  by  the 
people  of  Cumse,  a  colony  from  Greece,  wbo  gradually 
spread  themselves  round  tlie  bay  of  Naples,  and  it  was 
named  from  this  circumstance  Neopolis,  or  the  "  New 
City."  It  was  also  called  Parthenope,  from  its  being  the 
burial-place  of  one  of  the  sirens  of  that  name.  Naples^ 
was  of  old,  as  it  is  now,  a  chosen  seat  of  pleasure.  Its. 
hot  baths  w^ere  not  surpassed  by  any ;  and  the  number 
and  excellence  of  its  theatres  and  other  j^laces  of  amuse- 
ment,  its  matchless  scenery,  the  mildness  of  its  climate,, 
and  the  luxury  and  effeminacy  of  its  inhabitants,  made 
it  a  favorite  retreat  for  the  wealthy  Romans.  After  the 
fall  of  the  Roman  Empire  it  underwent  many  vicissitudes^ 
and,  notwithstanding  the  calamities  it  has  suffered  from 
war  and  earthquakes,  it  is  to-day  the  most  populous  city 
in  Italy. 

March  \^th. — Yesterday  we  arrived  in  port  just  in 
time  to  escape  one  of  the  most  fearful  storms  that  have 
visited  this  vicinity  for  many  years.     We  came  into  port 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  335 

at  one  o'clocl-:  in  tlie  afternoon,  and  the  gale  commenced 
at  three,  raging  for  three  days  and  nights  without  inter- 
mission, during  which  time  many  ships  along  the  Italian 
coast  were  wrecked.  To-day  the  gale  is  still  so  violent 
that  we  dare  not  venture  into  the  streets. 

March  20th. — In  regard  to  the  manners  and  customs 
of  Naples,  they  only  can  be  learned  by  close  observation 
of  the  habits  of  the  middle  class,  for  it  is  next  to  impos- 
sible for  a  stranger,  even  with  good  introductions,  to 
know  enough  of  the  aristocracy  of  any  large  city  to  form 
a  correct  judgment  of  their  domestic  habits.  Almost  all 
families  here,  except  those  in  the  very  highest  ranks,  live 
in  stories  or  flats,  each  story  being  a  distinct  habitation. 
It  is  said  that  the  society  of  Naples  is  anything  but 
moral.  The  nobility  are  fond  of  great  show  and  splen- 
dor. The  women  are  proud,  even  when  very  poor ;  they 
never  go  out,  either  to  walk  or  ride,  without  seemingly 
makino;  strenuous  efforts  to  fascinate  the  other  sex.  The 
streets  are  thronged  with  people,  who  thread  their  way 
through  a  thousand  obstacles,  pushing  and  elbowing  each 
other  in  eveiy  direction,  while  laughing  and  exchanging 
jokes  with  the  greatest  good-humor.  The  people  here, 
as  in  Paris  and  Rome,  spend  the  greater  ])art  of  their 
time  out-of-doors — living  as  it  were  on  the  streets.  While 
the  higher  class  sit  around  the  small  circular  tables  on 
the  sidewalks,  sipping  their  wines  and  partaking  of  other 
luxuries,  the  common  people  occupy  the  middle  of  the 
streets,  some  with  their  ])ortable  stoves,  dealing  out  from 
their  frying-pans  to  the  hungry  the  universal  macaroni, 
which  is  the  favorite  dish  of  the  Neapolitans,  and  filling 


336  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

the  air  witli  the  smell  of  frying  and  other  culinary  odors. 
Foreigners  are  soon  recognized  and  besieged  by  the  lower 
class  of  peddlers,  offering  canes,  flowers,  and  other  small 
trifles  for  sale,  or  wishing  to  clean  boots;  and  many 
offered  their  services  to  guide  us  through  the  streets  or 
to  the  public  institutions,  and  by  the  cabmen  we  were 
importuned  on  every  corner  to  take  rides  in  or  out  of 
town. 

March  21st. — It  is  principally  in  respect  to  its  situ- 
ation that  Naples  surpasses  other  Italian  cities.  The 
streets  are  somewhat  winding,  but  of  good  width,  paved 
with  blocks  of  lava,  laid  in  mortar,  and  are  said  to  re- 
semble the  old  Koman  roads.  The  dwellings  are  well 
built,  of  a  species  of  white  limestone  resembling  marble, 
from  five  to  six  stories  in  height.  The  view  from  Naples 
embraces  the  whole  coast  toward  the  east,  which  is  lined 
with  a  continuation  of  villages,  and  the  picturesque  little 
island  of  Capri  rising  out  of  the  sea  in  the  distance. 

It  was  in  this  city  that  St.  Paul  landed  wlien  on  his 
way  from  Palestine,  and  thence,  in  company  with  other 
prisoners,  passed  overland  into  Rome  to  be  tried  for  trea- 
son before  Csesar. 

March  22(1. — This  morning  we  rode  out  some  twelve 
miles,  to  the  old  volcano  Solfatara.  The  ride  was  a  pleas- 
ant one,  over  a  good  road  winding  around  the  bay  of 
Naples.  The  early  history  of  this  old  volcano  is  lost  in 
antiquity ;  I  am  iti formed,  however,  that  its  eruptions 
cause<l  nuich  damage  in  former  ages.  It  is  situated  upon 
a  mountain,  only  a  short  distance  from  the  sea,  and  its 
summit  has  the  form  of  a  basin  or  plateau.     As  I  saw  it 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  337 

years  ago,  so  it  remained  to-day,  vomiting  forth  hot  sul- 
phur, steam,  and  smoke,  making  an  angry  noise  and 
puffing  like  a  steam-engine,  and,  though  no  tire  was  vis- 
ible, doubtless  it  was  not  far  distant,  as  the  o;rouud  was 
quite  warm,  and  in  places  upon  the  summit  we  saw  pools 
of  water  miuQ-led  with  mud,  which  had  reached  the  boil- 
ing-point.  We  returned  to  Naj^les  through  the  tunnel 
underneath  the  mountain,  thus  reducing  the  distance 
nearly  one-half.  On  our  return  we  visited  the  aquarium, 
which  has  the  best  supply  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  sea 
that  I  have  seen  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

March  23d. — We  visited  the  museum,  where  many 
curious  things  are  deposited  from  Pompeii,  consisting  of 
human  skeletons,  kitchen-utensils,  lamps,  carpenters'  and 
smiths'  tools,  images,  the  skeletons  of  horses  and  dogs, 
pieces  of  charred  books,  cloth,  cords,  and  a  variety  of 
other  things  brought  from  the  I'uined  city. 

Marcli  2-itli. — We  rode  out  to  Mount  Vesuvius,  about 
twelve  miles  east  from  the  city,  and  four  from  the  sea. 
This  famous  volcano  can  well  be  ranked  amons;  the  s-reat 
natural  wonders  of  the  world.  Vesuvius  is  not  now  in 
active  eruption,  but  there  is  a  continual  issue  of  thick 
volumes  of  black  smoke  ascendino;  from  its  crater  for 
several  hundred  feet,  which  we  saw  on  our  passage  to 
Naples,  some  forty  miles  distant.  When  I  was  here  in 
1868,  Vesuvius  was  in  full  eruption,  vomiting  from  its 
summit  volumes  of  smoke,  mingled  with  fire  and  volcanic 
matter,  which  ascended  a  thousand  feet  or  more.  As 
the  lava  issued  from  the  volcano  it  ran  down  throuo;h  a 
ravine  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  like  a  small  river  of 


338  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

red-hot  metal,  of  a  bno-ht-crimson  color,  and  of  the  con- 
sistency  of  thick  mortar.  In  its  onward  course  it  spread 
over  the  side  of  the  mountain,  covering  a  su^^erficial  area 
of  from  forty  to  fifty  acres  of  ground,  presenting  one  of 
the  grandest  and  most  sublime  spectacles  in  Nature  ever 
beheld  by  man. 

About  three  years  ago  Vesuvius  was  again  in  active 
eruption,  which  continued  for  several  weeks,  presenting 
scenes  of  horror  and  devastation  seldom  witnessed.  It 
is  said,  by  those  who  observed  the  occurrence,  that  great 
volumes  of  dense,  white  smoke,  like  fleeces  of  wool,  as- 
cended from  the  crater  to  the  height  of  five  thousand 
feet  or  more,  accompanied  by  earthquake-shocks,  making 
a  deafening  noise,  roaring  like  ten  thousand  thunders, 
while  clouds  of  ashes,  dust,  and  red-hot  stones  were  car- 
ried to  a  distance  of  some  ten  or  twelve  miles.  More 
than  forty  thousand  persons  fled  from  Naples  to  escape 
the  impending  danger,  among  whom  sixty  were  killed 
and  many  wounded.  Witnesses  of  such  sights  and  sounds 
might  well  fancy  themselves  assisting  at  the  cannonading 
of  some  tremendous  fortress,  accompanied  with  continu- 
ous explosions  of  powder-magazines ;  but  the  last  erup- 
tion was  still  more  fearful,  and  can  scarcely  be  realized 
by  those  who  did  not  witness  the  occurrence. 

Vesuvius  was  a  burning  mountain  two  thousand  years 
before  the  Christian  era.  Its  fires  slumbered  for  a  while, 
but  just  before  the  time  that  Paul  landed  in  Naples  it 
was  seized  with  convulsions,  by  which  the  whole  region 
was  shaken,  and  both  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  were 
ovenvhelmed  and  destroved. 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  339 

March  2oth. — We  visited  Pompeii,  which  fronts  on 
the  bay  of  Naples,  not  far  from  Vesuvius.  Pompeii  was 
demolished  by  the  eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius  in  the 
year  a.  d.  79,  and  continued  buried  under  ashes  and 
other  volcanic  matter  until  within  a  few  years,  when  the 
Neapolitan  Government  commenced  making  excavations 
to  learn  more  as  to  the  identity  of  the  lost  city.  Pom- 
peii has  the  reputation  of  being  the  most  wonderful  of 
the  antique  cities  of  Italy,  and  scarcely  second  to  any  in 
the  world.  The  walls  of  this  mysterious  town  are  about 
twenty  feet  thick  and  twenty-five  feet  high.  The  streets 
are  very  well  paved,  curbed,  and  guttered,  and  have  side- 
walks. The  design  of  the  dwellings  and  institutions 
is  very  good;  some  of  the  edifices  are  built  of  square 
blocks  of  white  and  colored  marble,  and  others  of  brick. 
Judging  from  appearance,  one  would  think  that  some  of 
them  have  not  been  constructed  more  than  a  score  of 
years.  We  turn  to  the  right  and  to  the  left,  and  wander 
from  street  to  street,  and  still  we  have  the  perfect  image 
of  a  city  before  us,  excepting  that  no  inhabitants  appear, 
and  we  can  but  imagine  that  those  who  occupied  it  have 
only  left  a  few  days  ago.  Some  parts  of  this  ancient  city 
still  lie,  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  deep,  underneath  olive- 
orchards  and  gardens,  where  we  saw  laborers  at  work 
digging  and  carting  away  the  dirt  from  off  the  ruins  of 
this  once  fine  town.  The  melancholy  destruction  of  such 
a  large  place,  by  the  eruption  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  in  a. 
single  night,  without  a  moment's  warning;  the  desola- 
tion which  must  have  spread  from  dwelling  to  dwelling ; 
the  flight  of  mother,  father,  sister,  and  brother,  from  the 


340  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

scene  of  terror  and  confusion,  must  awaken  the  deepest 
feelings  of  awe  and  sympathy  in  every  human  heart. 
We  picture  the  sight  of  mothers  with  infants  in  their 
arms  seeking  safety  and  protection,  gathering  their  little 
ones  around  them,  trying  to  escape  the  impending  dan- 
ger, yet  j)lunged  into  a  fearful  eternity. 

I  will  now  give  a  description  of  some  of  the  most 
important  edifices.  As  we  entered  the  grounds  we  saw 
a  number  of  petrified  human  bodies,  some  of  them  re- 
cently excavated  from  underneath  the  ruins.  They  bore 
a  striking  resemblance  to  white  marble,  and  were  quite 
as  heavy  and  hard  as  stone ;  some  of  their  features  were 
as  natural  and  distinct  as  on  the  night  when  suddenly 
buried  by  the  torrent  of  lava. 

The  House  of  Pensa,  occupying  an  area  of  over  three 
hundred  feet  by  one  hundred  and  twenty,  and  fronting 
on  four  streets,  is  a  large  and  interesting  mansion.  The 
garden  or  court  was  about  half  as  large  as  the  house, 
with  the  remains  of  a  fountain  in  the  centre,  and  a  reser- 
voir in  one  corner.  In  one  of  the  bedrooms  of  this  tnan- 
sion  five  female  skeletons  were  found. 

The  House  of  Apollo  was  another  fine  edifice,  having 
richly-frescoed  walls,  with  fountain  and  garden  beauti- 
fully decorated.  Upon  one  of  the  walls  are  figures  of 
Apollo,  Venus,  and  Juno. 

The  Temple  of  Jupiter  is  another  large  edifice,  situ- 
ated at  the  north  end  of  the  Forum.  This  location 
is  the  finest  in  the  city,  commanding  from  its  elevated 
position  a  magnificent  view  of  Mount  Vesuvius. 

The  Forum  is  by  far  the  most  spacious  and  imposing 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  34I 

spot  in  Pompeii,  occupying  an  elevated  position  about 
four  hundred  yards  from  the  Herculaneum  Gate. 

The  inner  walls  of  the  Temple  of  Augustus,  or  Pan~ 
theon,  are  richly  decorated.  Among  the  paintings  found 
here  is  that  of  Ulysses,  in  disguise,  on  his  return  from 
Ithaca,  meeting  Penelope. 

The  Villa  of  Diomedes  is  an  interesting  and  pleasant 
residence.  Near  the  garden  gate  of  this  villa  were  found 
the  skeletons  of  the  owner  and  his  servant,  one  holding 
in  his  hand  the  keys  of  the  house,  the  other  carrying 
a  purse  which  contained  one  hundred  gold  and  silver 
coins,  bearing  the  inscriptions  of  Nero  and  Titus. 

We  saw  a  large  number  of  mills,  in  different  parts  of 
the  city,  for  grinding  grain.  They  were  built  of  two  dis- 
tinct pieces  of  granite ;  the  lower  stone  was  concave, 
about  four  feet  in  circumference  and  one  foot  through  ; 
the  upper  stone  was  convex,  of  the  same  size,  cut  in 
grooves,  and  resting  on  the  lower  one ;  through  the  head 
of  the  upper  stone  were  two  holes,  in  which  to  place 
bars,  so  that  two  persons  could  turn  the  mill.  These 
mills  reminded  me  of  the  parable  in  Scripture  related 
by  our  Saviour:  "Two  women  shall  be  grinding  at 
the  mill;  the  one  shall  be  taken,  and  the  other  left." 
Here  we  also  saw  a  large  number  of  cooking-utensils, 
sucli  as  bowls,  cups  and  saucers,  pans  and  ladles,  all  of 
copper  manufacture,  and  knives  and  forks,  such  as  are 
now  in  general  use;  also  carpenters'  tools,  saws,  files^ 
axes,  augers,  chisels,  and  many  others,  some  of  them 
quite  as  modern  in  tbeir  construction  as  those  in  use  at 
the  present  day. 


342  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

The  edifices  to  which  I  have  alluded  are  built  with 
Mgh  ceiliugs,  frescoed  walls,  and  marble  floors,  sur- 
mounted with  high,  fluted  columns  with  Corinthian 
caps,  and  somewhat  modern  in  construction,  all  of  which 
liave  been  covered  until  recently  with  lava  and  other 
volcanic  matter  for  the  period  of  eighteen  hundred  years. 
Too  much  cannot  be  said  or  learned  of  these  old  ruins, 
with  the  condition  of  which  every  student  of  ancient 
history  should  be  familiar. 

March  2^th. — To-day,  owing  to  the  prevalence  of  a 
sudden  and  unexpected  storm,  we  are  confined  to  the 
precincts  of  our  hotel. 

March  '21th. — We  called  on  B.  O.  Duncan,  American 
consul,  who  cordially  received  us,  and  gave  us  much  and 
valued  information  concerning  Naples  and  its  environs, 
and  also  of  the  people. 

March  2Wi. — To-day  we  devoted  chiefly  to  shopping. 
The  stores  are  filled  with  rich  and  costly  goods,  of  which 
red  coral  and  lava-work  are  the  specialties. 

March  29th. — We  spent  the  day  riding  in  and  around 
the  town.  There  are  many  attractions  to  be  met  with 
in  Naples  and  its  suburbs,  and  one  might  profitably 
spend  three  months  in  the  inspection  of  noteworthy  and 
beautiful  objects. 

March  SOth. — This  morning  we  took  our  departure 
by  the  quarter-past  six  o'clock  train  for  Rome ;  distance 
two  hundred  miles,  fare  twenty-seven  lire  each.  The 
environs  and  suburbs  of  Naples  are  rich  in  scenery. 
When  far  distant  from  the  city,  we  saw  the  smoke  issu- 
ing from  the  crater  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  forming  heavy, 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  343 

dark  clouds.  At  Casei'ta,  not  far  from  Naj^les,  we  passed 
by  one  of  the  king's  country  palaces.  In  the  distance 
we  caught  sight  of  the  range  of  the  Apennines,  which 
extends  the  entire  length  of  Italy.  Many  of  these  moun- 
tains, it  is  said,  are  infested  with  bandits  and  robbers, 
who  get  their  living  by  plunder.  The  land  upon  the 
plain  is  fertile ;  the  farmers  are  now  ploughing  the  ground, 
and  some  planting  corn  and  potatoes.  The  country 
-everywhere  is  covered  with  the  mulberry-tree,  which 
affords  food  for  the  silkworm,  and  supports  for  the  grape- 
vine. Every  farmer  is  compelled  by  law  to  have  grow- 
ing upon  his  land  a  certain  number  of  trees,  according 
to  the  number  of  acres  he  works.  The  country  is  dotted 
with  towns  and  villages ;  the  more  ancient  are  chiefly 
built  either  upon  the  sides  or  tops  of  the  mountains,  sur- 
rounded by  stone  walls ;  but  the  modern  towns  are  now 
b)eing  constructed  upon  the  plains,  without  walls.  The 
country  roads  are  macadamized  and  in  excellent  order, 
lined  with  ox-teams,  donkey-carts,  and  foot-travelers,  on 
their  way  to  and  from  Naples.  At  4.30  p.  m.  we  arrived 
in  Rome,  and  found  our  way  to  the  Hotel  de  Minerve, 
board  nine  lire  per  day. 

March  2>lst. — The  city  of  Rome  is  beautifully  situ- 
ated upon  the  river  Til)er,  j^artly  on  seven  hills,  which 
formed  the  chief  site  of  ancient  Rome.  Four  of  these 
hills,  once  the  scene  of  so  many  exciting  and  bloody 
events,  are  now  covered  by  gardens  and  vineyards. 
Rome,  once  the  most  celebrated  of  European  cities,  and 
famous  both  in  ancient  and  modern  history — formerly 
as  being  the  chief  city  of  the  most  powerful  nation  of 


344  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

antiquity,  and  afterward  as  the  ecclesiastical  capital  of 
Christendom  and  tlie  residence  of  the  pope  —  now  is 
under  the  government  of  the  King  of  Italy.  At  an  early 
period  she  was  considered  the  mistress  of  the  entire 
known  world,  holding  in  her  grasp  the  destiny  of  all 
nations ;  her  territory  spreading  over  Europe,  Asia,  Af- 
rica, and  the  islands  of  the  sea,  teeming  with  millions  of 
inhabitants.  She  is  now  reduced  to  a  compai-atively 
small  town,  surrounded  by  a  zigzag  wall,  and  containing 
only  about  two  hundred  thousand  souls.  The  city  is 
very  well  built,  of  a  species  of  white  stone  or  marble, 
giving  the  houses  a  pretty  appearance,  but  the  streets 
are  both  narrow  and  crooked,  running  in  every  conceiv- 
able direction,  and  thronged  with  people.  The  stranger 
and  the  unwary  have  to  "  blaze  "  their  way  through  the 
noisy  crowd,  for  fear  of  being  lost  at  every  crook  and 
corner.  Rome  is  characterized  by  fine  churches,  which 
are  the  centre  of  attraction  to  the  pleasure-seeker  and 
the  curious.  The  citv  contains  in  all  three  hundred  and 
sixty-five  churches,  of  which  St.  Peter's  is  the  most  prom- 
inent. This  church  is  situated  on  Vatican  Hill,  over- 
looking the  city,  is  built  in  the  shape  of  a  Latin  cross, 
and  is  six  hundred  and  seven  feet  in  length  by  four  hun- 
dred and  forty-five  feet  in  width ;  the  height  of  the  dome, 
from  the  pavement  to  the  top  of  the  cross,  is  four  hun- 
dred and  forty-eight  feet.  This  church  was  one  hundred 
and  seventy-six  years  in  building,  at  a  cost,  when  labor 
was  less  than  half  what  it  is  now,  of  fifty  million  dollars. 
It  is  decidedly  the  largest  Christian  church  in  the  world, 
built  of  white  marble,  and  its  style  of  architecture  is 


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ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  345 

modern,  cliaste,  and  classical.  After  one  has  beheld  St. 
Peter's  the  interest  is  greatly  lessened  in  seeing  other 
churches.  The  pope  is  the  head  of  the  Catholic  Church, 
and  is  assisted  by  seventy-two  cardinals,  some  of  whom 
reside  in  Kome,  and  others  in  different  parts  of  the  world. 
At  the  decease  of  the  pope,  a  choice  is  made  by  election 
of  one  of  the  cardinals  to  fill  his  place,  who  holds  tlie 
office  for  life. 

I  will  only  briefly  advert  to  some  of  the  principal 
antique  edifices  in  Rome.  The  Colosseum  was  built 
A.  D.  79,  in  honor  of  Titus,  on  his  return  from  the  Jewish 
war ;  sixty  thousand  captive  Jews  were  employed  for  ten 
years  in  its  construction.  It  is  built  of  large  blocks  of 
white  stone,  four  stories  high,  and  consists  of  three  orders 
of  architecture — the  first,  Doric ;  second,  Ionic ;  third  and 
fourth,  Corinthian.  In  each  of  the  lower  tiers  there  are 
eighty  arches ;  the  circumference  of  the  building  is  six- 
teen hundred  and  forty -one  feet,  the  height  of  the  outer 
walls  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  feet,  and  the  length  of 
the  arena  two  hundred  and  seventy-eight  feet ;  the  whole 
superficial  area  covers  S'ix  acres  of  ground,  and  would  seat 
eighty-seven  thousand  persons.  At  the  time  of  its  inau- 
guration, which  continued  for  one  hundred  days,  five 
thousand  wild  animals  and  ten  thousand  captive  Jews 
were  slain  within  its  walls  for  the  amusement  of  the  sj^ec- 
tators.     Titus  himself  died  about  this  time. 

The  Temple  of  Venus  was  another  famous  structure, 
but  there  only  remain  to  denote  its  site  numerous  frag- 
ments of  marble  columns  strewed  upon  the  ground.  It 
was  built  by  Hadrian,  after  his  own  design,  and  there  is 

23 


34:6  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

a  story  to  the  effect  tliat  wlieu  it  was  finislied  he  asked 
an  eminent  architect  what  he  thought  of  it.  The  latter 
replied  that  it  was  very  good  for  an  emperor.  Hadrian 
took  such  offense  that  he  immediately  sent  for  an  officer 
of  his  guard,  and  ordered  the  architect's  head  cut  off. 
This  temple  was  constructed  in  the  year  a.  d.  67.  After 
its  completion,  people  came  from  all  parts  of  the  Eastern. 
world  to  see  this  royal  palace,  which  is  said  to  have  been 
richly  adorned  with  paintings  and  sculpture,  and  also  to 
have  contained  the  golden  candlesticks  and  the  golden 
tables,  and  other  pieces  of  valuable  furniture,  brought 
by  Titus  from  the  great  Temple  of  Jerusalem  on  his  re- 
turn from  the  Jewish  War.  But  nothincr  is  visible  of 
those  precious  relics ;  now  they  either  have  been  removed 
or  else  destroyed  by  the  lapse  of  ages.  The  palace  itself 
is  in  a  decayed  condition,  although  there  is  enough  re- 
mainino"  to  furnish  evidence  of  its  old-time  mao^nitude 
and  sj^lendor. 

The  old  Roman  Senate-chamber  is  worthy  of  note  on 
account  of  its  historic  associations.  This  chamber  was 
once  the  scene  of  many  bloody  acts  and  exciting  debates. 
It  was  in  this  hall  that  St.  Paul  pleaded  his  cause  before 
Cgesar.  There  remain  now  only  a  few  fragments  of 
broken  columns  to  identify  the  spot  where  the  old  Ro- 
man chamber  once  stood. 

The  Pantheon  is  also  an  edifice  of  great  interest.  It 
was  built  for  a  heathen  temple  by  King  Agrippa,  in  the 
year  a.  d.  27.  It  is  circular,  and  contains  one  of  the 
largest  domes  in  Europe,  supported  by  a  bronze  ring. 
The  building  is  in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  and  is 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  347 

now  used  as  a  cliurcli  for  Catliolic  worship.  It  is  not  at 
all  to  be  wondered  at  that  edifices  last  for  so  long  a  pe- 
riod in  these  countries,  since  they  are  built  in  the  most 
substantial  manner  of  stone  and  cement  combined.  There 
is  no  wood  in  their  construction  to  decay  ;  even  the  doors 
-and  window-frames  are  of  bronze. 

The  Forum  is  of  great  interest.  On  entering  it  from 
the  Via  Bonella,  we  have  the  Capitol  above  us  at  the 
right,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  walls  the  remains  of  the 
Temple  of  Concord,  the  three  remaining  columns  of  the 
Temjole  of  Vesj^asian,  and  the  colonnade  of  the  Temple 
of  Saturn.  At  a  short  distance  looms  up  the  Temple 
of  Antoninus,  and  at  the  right  are  the  huge  ruins  of 
Caesar's  Palace. 

The  Vatican  is  the  capitol  of  modern  E-ome,  and  ad- 
joins St.  Peter's  Church.  It  is  three  stories  in  height, 
and  comprises  an  infinite  number  of  rooms,  galleries,  cor- 
ridors, chapels,  a  library  of  a  hundred  thousand  vol- 
umes, and  a  museum  of  immense  size.  It  has  twenty 
courts,  with  eight  grand  stairways  and  two  hundred 
smaller  ones.  In  history  it  is  the  most  celebrated  of  all 
papal  palaces.  It  is  composed  of  a  mass  of  buildings 
erected  by  many  different  popes,  covering  a  space  twelve 
hundred  feet  in  length  and  a  thousand  in  breadth. 

This  palace  is  the  pope's  principal  residence  when  he 
is  in  Home.  The  grounds  are  laid  out  with  very  good 
taste,  adorned  with  ornamental  trees  and  choice  flowers. 
The  interior  of  the  palace  is  very  elegantly  furnished,  its 
walls  decorated  with  the  finest  paintings,  and  its  ceilings 
with  the  richest  frescoes.     By  our  valet  de  place  we  were 


348  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

conducted  througli  some  of  the  principal  chambers.  We 
first  entered  the  hall  of  audience  for  the  embassadors ; 
this  hall  is  finely  decorated  with  stucco  ornaments,  and 
covered  with  frescoes,  illustrating  events  in  the  history 
of  the  popes.  We  next  entered  the  Sistine  Chapel,  which 
is  approached  from  this  hall.  On  admission,  we  paid  the 
custodian  a  small  fee.  The  frescoes  on  the  walls  are  very 
fine,  having  been  executed  by  eminent  artists,  employed 
by  the  diiferent  popes  to  do  the  work ;  the  subjects  are 
principally  taken  from  the  Old  Testament,  and  are  con- 
ceived in  a  spirit  of  sublime  grandeur.  The  most  at- 
tractive painting  in  this  hall  is  opposite  the  entrance;  it 
represents  the  last  judgment;  it  is  sixty  feet  high  and 
thirty  broad,  and  was  executed  by  Michael  Angelo. 
Here  also  is  another  large  painting,  representing  the 
transfiguration.  This  painting  seems  to  express  the  mis- 
eries of  human  life,  and  leads  those  who  are  afflicted  to 
look  to  heaven  for  comfort  and  relief  The  U23per  j)or- 
tion  of  the  composition  represents  Mount  Tabor ;  on  the 
ground  the  three  apostles  are  lying,  deeply  affected  by 
the  supernatural  light  which  proceeds  from  the  divinity 
of  Christ,  who,  accompanied  by  Moses  and  Elijah,  is 
floating  in  the  air.  On  one  side  are  nine  apostles,  and 
on  the  other  a  multitude  of  people.  This  splendid  work 
of  art  was  executed  by  Raphael. 

We  were  also  conducted  through  the  Gallery  of  Stat- 
ues, where  we  saw  all  kinds  of  sculpture.  The  j^rincipal 
objects  of  attraction  are  the  two  sarcophagi  of  immense 
size.  One  of  them  was  for  Constantia,  the  daughter  of 
Constantine,  who  died  a.  d.  354 ;  the  other  for  the  Em- 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    BOMB,    ETC.  349 

press  Helena.  There  are  many  otlier  things  of  note  in 
the  Vatican,  which  would  require  several  days  to  ex- 
amine satisfactorily. 

The  Mamertine  Prison  is  one  of  the  most  revolting 
prisons  that  I  have  ever  examined.  Directly  over  it 
stands  an  old  church,  on  entering  which  we  were  con- 
ducted through  a  gloomy  stairway  till  we  came  to  a  trap- 
door, through  which  we  entered,  descending  sixteen  stone 
steps,  worn  by  the  footsteps  of  the  countless  throng  of 
visitors,  till  we  approached  a  dark  chamber  about  thirty 
feet  square,  which  is  directly  underneatli  the  floor  of  the 
cburch ;  from  this  chamber  we  descended  nearly  as  many 
steps  as  at  first,  to  a  lower  chamber  about  the  same  size 
as  the  upper.  We  ai-e  now  at  least  twenty-five  feet  below 
the  earth's  surface,  w^here  the  light  of  the  sun  is  never 
permitted  to  shine  upon  the  countenances  of  those  who 
are  so  unfortunate  as  to  Ije  locked  up  within  the  in- 
closure  of  its  dark  and  gloomy  walls.  It  was  in  this 
prison  that  St.  Paul  and  St.  Peter  ^yere  incarcerated  by 
Nero.  After  the  two  apostles  had  been  confined  in  this 
dungeon  for  the  period  of  nine  months  they  were,  by  the 
order  of  Nero,  taken  out  and  executed.  While  St.  Paul 
was  being  beheaded  upon  the  Apj^ian  Way,  some  two 
miles  outside  of  the  limits  of  the  present  walls  of  the 
<jity,  St.  Peter,  at  the  same  hour,  was  hanging  upon  the 
ignominious  cross  on  Vatican  Hill,  upon  which  spot  St. 
Peter's  Church  has  been  erected  in  commemoration  of  the 
apostle's  death ;  and  there  is  also  a  very  fine  church 
erected  over  the  spot  where  St.  Paul  fell  a  victim  to  the 
Homans,  called  St.  Paul's  Church. 


350  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

April  \st. — We  hired  a  carriage  and  rode  out  several 
miles  into  the  country,  upon  the  Via  Appia.  On  the 
way  we  passed  by  the  old  church  of  St.  Sebastian,  named 
after  the  venerable  saint,  who  was  martyred.  The  coun- 
try through  which  we  rode  is  rather  picturesque;  the 
dwellings  are  of  stone,  with  thick  walls  and  small  win- 
dows, and  look  as  if  they  had  stood  for  centuries,  and 
would  stand  for  centuries  to  come.  The  soil  is  not  very 
fertile,  though  it  could  be  made  to  produce  very  fair 
crops;  but  the  farmers  are  seemingly  devoid  of  enter- 
prise or  skill.  During  our  ride,  we  occasionally  passed 
antique  ruins. 

April  2d. — This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  attend  the 
Presbyterian  church,  located  outside  the  city  walls.  The 
chapel  is  a  neat  little  edifice,  and  will  seat  about  three 
hundred  people.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Runnels,  our  traveling- 
companions,  who  joined  us  upon  the  circuit  at  San  Fran- 
cisco, left  this  mornino-  en  route  for  Switzerland. 

April  Sd. — ^This  morning  we  left  Rome  by  the  quar- 
ter-past ten  o'clock  train  for  Pisa,  distance  about  two 
hundred  and  twenty -live  miles,  fare  forty  lire  each. 
The  country  in  the  vicinity  of  Rome  is  hilly,  and  not  as 
fertile  as  in  some  other  parts  of  Italy.  At  half-past 
eleven  we  stopped  for  a  few  minutes  at  Palo,  facing  on 
the  Mediterranean  Sea,  where  the  country  is  more  leveL 
After  leaving  this  town,  we  rode  along  the  border  of 
the  sea  nearly  all  the  afternoon.  At  intervals  we  saw 
ships  lying  off  at  anchor,  either  taking  in  cargoes  or  dis- 
charging them  upon  lighters.  The  country-houses  are 
all  constructed  of  stone.     The  lower  stories,  or  ground- 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  35I 

floors,  of  the  farm-dwellings  are  occupied  by  cattle,  and 
the  peoj^le  live  above.  We  arrived  at  Pisa  at  7.15  p.m., 
and  put  up  at  the  Hotel  de  Londres,  board  ten  and  a  half 
lire  per  day.  Here  we  I'ejoined  our  traveling-companions, 
who  left  us  at  Rome.  The  principal  objects  of  interest  in 
Pisa  are  the  Leaning  Tower  and  the  old  cathedral.  We 
devoted  the  day  principally  to  an  examination  of  the 
statuary,  of  marble  and  alabaster,  which  are  the  special- 
ties of  the  place.  I  purchased  two  handsome  pieces  of 
statuary,  and  made  a  shipment  of  them  to  New  York. 

April  Dtli. — We  left  Pisa  this  morning  by  the  half- 
past  eleven  o'clock  train  for  Genoa,  distance  a  hundred 
and  three  miles,  fare  twenty  lire.  At  one  o'clock,  ^^■Q> 
approach  the  marble-quarries  in  the  mountains ;  the  range 
stretches  close  to  the  Mediterranean.  Before  getting 
clear  of  the  mountains  we  passed  through  ninety-two 
tunnels;  about  half  the  distance  accomplished  during 
the  afternoon  was  made  below  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
We  arrived  in  Genoa  at  6.30  p.  m.,  and  took  board  at 
the  Hotel  de  la  Yille,  ten  lire  per  day. 

April  6t7i. — The  city  of  Genoa,  called  the  Superb,  is 
handsomely  situated  on  the  Mediterranean,  nearly  sur- 
rounded in  the  rear  by  a  succession  of  high  hills,  one 
gradually  rising  above  another.  The  city  is  one  of  the 
principal  seaports  of  Italy ;  it  possesses  an  excellent  har- 
bor for  shipping,  and  has  a  population  of  one  hundred 
and  forty  thousand. 

Genoa  is  a  city  of  great  antiquity,  and  has  undergone 
many  vicissitudes.  The  government  was  for  a  long  time 
in  a  state  of  revolution,  and  contests  were  constantly 


352 


ABOUND.    THE   WORLD. 


arising  between  the  nobility  and  citizens.  It  was  not 
till  1756  til  at  it  became  tranquil.  In  1797  tbe  city  was 
taken  by  the  French.  The  walls  of  the  city  have  fre- 
quently been  enlarged ;  the  older  portion  of  the  town  is 
laid  out  in  narrow  and  crooked  streets,  but  in  the  new 
part  they  are  wide  and  handsome.    The  climate  is  fine, 


GENOA. 


and  the  atmosphere  pure  and  clear.  Beggars  are  few 
in  number,  which  makes  it  more  as-reeable  for  tourists 
and  residents  than  most  Italian  cities. 

Christopher  Columbus  was  born  in  Genoa  in  1442.  A 
fi.ne  monument  to  his  memory  has  been  erected  in  the  pub- 
lic square.     Columbus  was  a  man  of  penetrating  genius, 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  353 

and  constantly  ambitious  of  accomplisliing  something  that 
would  perpetuate  his  fame.  He  first  applied  to  the  city 
of  Genoa  for  assistance  in  attempting  discoveries  in  the 
Western  seas,  but  it  was  refused,  and  he  was  regarded 
as  a  visionary.  The  same  ill  success  attended  him  in  his 
application  to  the  courts  of  Portugal  and  England.  He 
then  went  to  Spain,  where  he  received  encouragement 
from  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  who  fitted  him  out  with 
three  small  ships,  and  a  sufiicient  supply  of  money.  He 
soon  discovered  the  island  of  .Cuba,  of  which  he  took 
possession.  On  his  return  to  Spain,  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella were  much  pleased  with  his  great  success.  They 
then  furnished  him  with  a  larger  number  of  ships,  and 
on  his  second  voyage  he  discovered  the  group  of  Carib- 
bean Islands  and  Jamaica.  In  his  third  voyage  he  dis- 
covered that  part  of  the  continent  of  South  America 
where  Carthao-ena  was  afterward  built. 

The  cathedral  of  San  Lorenzo  is  the  centre  of  attrac- 
tion in  Grenoa.  This  old  cathedral  was  built  in  the 
eleventh  century,  in  Gothic  style,  with  a  singular  exte- 
rior, being  formed  of  white  and  black  stripes  of  marble. 
Some  of  the  inscriptions  in  the  church  give  the  history 
of  the  foundation  of  the  city.  A  beautiful  statue  of  the 
*'  Madonna  and  Child,"  made  of  bronze,  is  erected  in  the 
church.  The  finest  portion  of  the  church  is  the  chapel 
of  John  the  Baptist.  The  canopy  over  the  altar  covers 
the  sarcophagus  in  which  are  deposited  the  supposed 
relics  of  the  Baptist,  which  are  contained  in  an  iron- 
bound  chest.  Here  is  also  shown  the  dish  out  of  which, 
it  is  said,  Christ  ate  the  Last  Supper.     Tradition  says 


354  AROUND    TEE   WORLD. 

that  it  was  originally  presented  by  King  Solomon  to  tlie 
Queen  of  Sheba,  and  afterward  preserved  in  the  Temple. 
At  the  time  when  the  combined  forces  of  Genoa  and  Pisa 
captured  Csesarea,  the  Genoese  took  the  emerald  dish  for 
their  share  of  the  booty,  and  it  was  brought  to  Genoa^ 
where  it  was  held  in  such  veneration  that  twelve  nobles 
were  appointed  to  guard  it.  It  was  only  exhibited  once 
a  year,  and  then  the  priests  held  it  by  a  chain  while  be- 
ing viewed  by  the  crowd.  So  valuable  was  it  then  con- 
sidered, that  the  Jews  took  it  as  security  for  a  loan  of 
four  million  francs,  which  they  advanced  to  the  Genoese 
for  a  period  of  forty  years. 

April  ^tli. — We  take  our  departure  this  morning  by 
the  eight  o'clock  train  for  Turin,  distance  a  hundred  and 
four  miles,  fare  forty  lire.  Shortly  after  leaving  we  pass 
through  eleven  tunnels.  The  country  is  mountainous  and 
picturesque.  For  some  distance  we  ride  along  the  banks 
of  a  dry  river-bed.  Most  of  the  mountains  in  Italy  that 
are  susceptible  of  cultivation  are  terraced,  and  covered 
with  olive-trees  and  grape-vines.  We  arrive  in  Turin  at 
12.30  p.  M.,  and  put  up  at  the  Hotel  Trombetta,  board  ten 
lire  a  day. 

The  city  of  Turin  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  flat 
plain  between  two  rivers — the  Dora  Susina  and  the  Po. 
It  is  of  an  oval  shape,  measuring  four  miles  around  its 
walls,  and  contains  a  population  of  two  hundred  and 
twenty-iive  thousand.  It  has  been  repeatedly  destroyed. 
The  last  severe  injuries  sustained  Were  in  the  fifteenth 
century,  at  which  time  the  suburbs  were  demolished,  and 
also  its  public  works.    It  was  made  a  military  station  by 


ITALY:    NAPLES,    ROME,    ETC.  355 

Julius  Caesar,  on  his  invasion  of  Gaul.  In  tlie  year  312 
a  great  victory  was  gained  by  Constantine  in  its  imme- 
diate vicinity.  The  Duke  of  Savoy  took  possession  of  it 
in  the  tenth  century.  In  the  year  1536  the  French  got 
possession  and  retained  it  for  twenty-six  years,  and  after- 
ward lost  it,  but  retook  it  in  1640.  It  was  the  old  capi- 
tal of  the  duchy  of  Savoy  and  of  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia^ 
and  on  the  union  of  all  Italy  under  Victor  Emmanuel  it 
became  for  a  time  the  capital  of  the  new  kingdom,  which 
honor  was  subsequently  conferred  upon  Florence,  and 
finally  upon  Home. 

Turin  is  well  built,  the  structures  are  uniform  in  ap- 
pearance, and  there  is  not  a  mean-looking  house  in  the 
city;  even  the  residences  of  the  poorer  classes  are  almost 
palaces.  The  buildings  are  of  brick,  coated  over  with 
white  cement  in  imitation  of  stone.  A  profusion  of  run- 
ning water  keeps  the  fine  white  pavement  clean.  All 
through  and  around  the  city  are  fine,  large  shade-trees. 
From  here  the  view  is  magnificent — the  Alps  on  one 
side,  and  the  Apennines  in  the  distance  on  the  other. 
The  climate  is  more  changeable,  and  much  colder,  than 
in  the  south  of  Italy. 

We  visit  and  are  shown  through  one  of  the  principal 
palaces ;  this  one  is  elegantly  furnished,  with  frescoed 
walls,  ornamented  with  rich  tapestry,  and  fine  paintings 
and  sculpture,  executed  by  the  best  artists.  The  palaces 
in  Italy  are  constructed  in  the  most  substantial  manner, 
and  with  proper  care  look  as  if  they  might  last  till  the 
end  of  time ;  the  marble  of  which  they  are  built  does 
not  crumble,  or  change  color,  as  it  does  in  America. 


S56  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

April  Sth. — We  leave  Turin  this  morning  by  the 
half-past  nine  o'clock  train  for  Geneva,  distance  some 
two  hundred  miles,  fare  thirty-nine  lire  each.  About  an 
hour  after  leaving,  we  come  to  and  enter  a  deep  ravine 
in  the  Alps,  through  which  we  ride  the  greater  part  of 
ijhe  day.  The  scenery  was  broken,  and  most  interesting. 
At  two  o'clock  we  approach  the  Mont  Cenis  Tunnel, 
which  took  thirty  minutes  to  pass  through,  from  Italy 
into  France.  We  stop  at  Modane,  on  the  French  fron- 
tier, where  our  baggage  undergoes  the  usual  examina- 
tion by  the  officers  of  customs,  and  make  a  change  of 
cars.  At  7  p.  m.  we  make  another  chano;e  at  Culoz.  We 
arrive  in  Geneva,  Switzerland,  at  11  p.m.,  and  are  con- 
veyed to  the  Grand  Hotel  du  Lac,  board  ten  francs  a 
day. 


CHAPTER   XXXIII. 


SWITZERLAND. 


April  9th.  —  Geneva  is  splendidly  situated  at  tlie 
soutliwesterly  extremity  of  the  beautiful  lake  of  the  same 
name,  and  contains  a  population  of  sixty-five  thousand. 
The  city  is  well  built,  the  dwellings  being  lofty  and  con- 
structed of  white  stone.  The  streets  are  winding,  but  of 
good  width,  and  well  paved  with  small  blocks  of  stone. 

April  10 fh. — The  people  of  Switzerland  have  no  dis- 
tinct language  of  their  own,  but  speak  German,  Italian, 
and  French.  Neither  have  they  any  particular  standard 
of  currency,  but  receive  all  kinds  of  money  at  par. 

April  lltJi. — Geneva  is  especially  noted  for  its  clocks, 
watches,  fine  jewelry,  and  musical  instruments.  Among 
other  things,  I  purchased  a  musical-box,  of  which  I  made 
a  shipment  to  New  York. 

April  12t7i. — This  being  Good-Friday,  the  shops  and 
stores  are  closed.  The  people  in  the  forenoon  mostly  at- 
tend church,  but  the  afternoon  is  devoted  to  both  riding 
out,  and  sailing  on  the  lake. 

April  13th. — Geneva  is  more  of  a  summer  than  a 
winter  resort,  for  the  reason  that  it  is  surrounded  by  a 
lofty  chain  of  mountains,  the  highest  of  which  are  cov- 
ered with  snow  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  Of  course, 
the  atmosphere  is  chilly  during  the  winter.     Mont  Blanc 


S58  AROUND    THE, WORLD. 

is  tlie  liigliest  of  the  Alps,  and  from  here  is  plain  to  our 
view.  To  ascend  its  loftiest  peak  requires  two  days  of 
great  fatigue  in  cliuil)ing.  The  ascent  is  never  made 
without  the  assistance  of  some  two  or  three  o-uides,  each 
of  whom  charges  one  hundred  francs  for  his  services, 
which  would  seem  like  a  large  price ;  and  yet  it  is  little 
enough  for  these  poor  fellows,  who  peril  their  lives  to 
gratify  a  most  unworthy  curiosity. 

April  lUh. — There  is  nothing  very  ^sti'iking  in  Ge- 
neva, excepting  the  charming  scenery  and  the  beautiful 
works  of  Nature  by  which  it  is  environed.  On  riding 
out,  we  stopped  at  the  old  Protestant  cathedral.  The 
church  is  of  stone,  and  in  a  good  state  of  preservation. 
The  pulpit  is  the  same  as  when  Calvin  and  other  re- 
formers preached  from  it. 

AiJril  loth. — We  devote  the  day  chiefly  to  shopping, 
and  walking  about  the  town. 

April  16th. — The  rich  and  magnificent  scenery  of  the 
Lake  of  Geneva,  and  of  the  Alps,  with  their  white  varie- 
gated tops  looming  up  into  the  clouds,  cannot  be  ade- 
quately described.  Some  parts  facing  on  the  lake,  more 
exposed  to  the  sun,  are  covered  for  a  long  distance  up 
the  sides  of  the  mountains  with  fine  cultivated  vine- 
yards, which  are  most  beautiful  to  look  upon,  while  the 
margin  of  the  lake  is  teeming  with  small  towns  and  vil- 
lages, some  of  them  of  great  antiquity. 

April  17th. — There  are  several  steamboats  engaged 
on  the  lake,  carrying  passengers  both  up  and  down,  and 
a  large  number  of  yachts  are  constantly  seen  sailing  over 
its  placid  waters. 


.S'  WITZERLAN^D.  359 

Apinl  ISth. — This  being  our  last  day  in  Geneva,  we 
devote  it  to  rambling  about,  and  siglit-seeing. 

Api'il  Idth. — This  morning  we  take  our  departure  en 
route  for  Paris,  by  tlie  lialf-past  ten  o'clock  train,  distance 
three  hundred  and  eighty-eight  miles,  fare  seventy-seven 
francs  apiece.  The  surroundings  of  Geneva  are  very 
beautifal.  We  ride  alonsf  the  border  of  the  river  Rhone, 
which  is  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  until  we  get  nearly  out 
of  the  Alps.  At  length  we  pass  through  a  long  tunnel, 
and  enter  France. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

featstce:  mIcon,  dijon,  parts,  havre. 

Ojst  our  arrival  in  France,  at  the  first  station,  our 
l^aggage  undergoes  another  examination  by  the  customs 
officials.  Soon  after  starting,  we  strike  oflF  uj^on  the 
plains,  leaving  the  majestic  Alps  behind  us.  A  5  p.  m. 
we  break  our  tour  by  stopping  at  Macon,  where  we  re- 
main overnight,  putting  up  in  the  Hotel  de  I'Europe. 
Macon  is  a  small  town,  containing  about  twenty -five 
thousand  inhabitants  ;  it  is  situated  on  the  river  Saone, 
tributary  to  the  Rhone. 

April  20th. — We  resume  our  journey  this  morning 
by  the  eleven  o'clock  train,  en  route  for  Paris.  The  coun- 
try through  which  we  ride  is  rough,  and  not  very  invit- 
ing ;  the  grape  is  the  principal  croj:*.  We  stop  at  Dijon 
for  dinner.  Dijon  is  the  capital  of  the  old  j^rovince  of 
Burgundy,  and  is  now  a  great  railroad  centre ;  but,  aside 
from  that,  presents  nothing  very  attractive.  We  reached 
Paris  at  10.30  p.  m.,  j)rocured  a  cab,  and  were  driven  to 
the  Grand  Hotel  de  I'Athenee,  which  was  full,  hence  we 
took  up  quarters  in  the  Hotel  de  St.-Petersbourg,  board 
ten  francs  each  per  day.  The  legal  current  coin  of  the 
country  is  the  franc,  equivalent  to  nineteen  and  one-fifth 
cents  of  American  coin. 


FRANCE:    MACON,    DIJON    PARIS.  2,Q>1 

April  216/.  —  Paris  is  situated  on  tlie  river  Seine, 
Avlncli  divides  the  city  into  two  parts,  but  the  municipal 
government  is  in  one.  The  Seine  at  Paris  is  about  two 
hundred  yards  in  width,  and  is  crossed  by  several  fine 
bridges  of  stone.  The  river-water  is  clear,  and  has  its 
outlet  at  Havre.  The  French  capital  contains  nearly 
two  million  inhal)itants,  and  is  doubtless  the  most  elab- 
orately-built city  in  the  world.  Tlie  houses  are  con- 
structed in  a  uniform  style;  some  are  built  of  white 
stone,  easily  cut,  and  others  of  a  white,  chalky  clay  com- 
pi'essed  into  blocks.  When  used  these  blocks  become 
hardened  by  the  effect  of  the  atmosphere,  and  resemble 
stone.  As  they  are  laid  in  the  building,  they  form  the 
inner  as  well  as  the  outer  avails.  Some  of  the  dwelliuirs 
are  from  six  to  seven  stories  hi^rh.  There  is  no  wood 
used  in  tlieir  construction,  excepting  for  doors  and  cas- 
ings ;  the  lloor-beams  are  of  iron,  and  overlaid  with  tiles 
of  stone,  and  the  roofs  covered  with  slate. 

A])ril  ''I'^d. — The  streets  of  Paris  are  of  good  width ; 
some  of  the  principal  boulevards  are  much  wider  than 
those  of  New  York,  and  adorned  with  fine  shade-trees  of 
uniform  size.  All  of  the  boulevards,  as  well  as  the  coun- 
tr}^  roads,  are  macadamized  with  limestone,  and  are  as 
smooth  aa  a  floor ;  there  are  men  constantly  working 
upon  them,  and  when  they  become  uneven  or  broken 
they  are  immediately  put  in  repair.  Some  of  the  streets 
are  coated  with  a  composition  of  coal-ashes  and  tar,  which 
becomes  as  hard  as  stone  and  as  smooth  as  glass. 

April '2Zd, — There  are  several  hundred  hotels  in  Paris. 
The  i^eople  generally  live  in  flats  (each  story  forming  a 

24 


362  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

distinct  habitation),  and  do  little  if  any  cooking  in  their 
dwellings,  but  commonlj^  eat  two  meals  a  day  in  the 
hotels  or  restaurants.  When  the  weather  is  warm  and 
pleasant,  the  people  sj^end  their  evenings  chiefly  upon 
the  streets,  having  their  tables  and  seats  out  upon  the 
sidewalks  spread  with  wines  and  other  luxuries. 

April  24:th. — ^This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  attended 
the  Mission  Chapel ;  the  first  sermon  was  in  French,  and 
the  second  in  Eno;lish. 

April  2Qt]i. — The  Parisians  have  long  considered  them- 
selves at  the  head  of  civilization,  both  in  matters  of  dress 
and  fashion ;  they  rank  so  by  unanimous  consent.  They 
seem  more  noted  for  outside  show  than  for  stability  and 
decision  of  character.  Vice  and  iniquity  abound  in  every 
circle,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest.  They  have  little 
regard  for  the  Christian  Sabbath,  for  it  is  kept  as  a  day 
of  recreation,  visiting  theatres,  ballrooms,  etc. ;  and  horse- 
racing,  gambling,  and  many  other  vices,  are  common  on 
the  Sabbath. 

Ap)ril  26tJi. — To-day  we  shift  our  quarters  from  tlie 
Hotel  de  St.-Petersbourg  to  the  London  and  New  York 
Hotel,  which  is  beautifully  situated  in  a  fashionable  23art 
of  the  city — on  Havre  de  Place — where  thousands  upon 
thousands  of  people  are  seen  promenading  in  the  public 
square  daily. 

April  27th. — ^To-day  we  devote  to  examining  some 
of  the  princi23al  edifices.  The  Place  de  la  Concorde  is 
one  of  the  handsomest  in  Paris,  if  not  in  Europe ;  we 
have  on  our  right  La  Madeleine,  and  De  la  Paix  to  the 
left ;  in  the  rear  a  portion  of  the  city  looms  up  overlook- 


FRANCE:    MAC  OX,    DIJON,    PARIS.  353 

ing  the  Seine.  We  next  enter  the  Place  du  Carrousel, 
whicli  is  situated  between  the  two  wine's  of  the  new 
Louvre,  facing  at  right  angles,  witli  a  fine  park  in  front, 
adorned  witli  laro;e  ornamental  sliade-trees  of  uniform 
size,  and  fountains  and  fish-ponds. 

April  2Sfh. — We  visit  the  Colonne  Vendome.  This 
column  was  erected  by  Napoleon  in  1810,  to  commemc- 
rate  the  victories  of  the  grand  army  in  the  German  cam- 
paign. The  bronze  metal  which  covers  this  monument 
weighs  one  hundred  and  sixty  tons,  and  was  cast  from 
the  twelve  hundred  pieces  of  cannon  taken  from  the  bat- 
tle-fields in  that  campaign.  It  was  pulled  down  by  the 
Communists  after  the  Franco-German  War  of  1870-71, 
and  has  recently  been  reerected  uj)on  the  same  spot. 

April  29th. — The  Palais  Royal  covers  more  ground 
than  any  other  building  in  Paris  excepting  the  Tuileries. 
It  was  erected  for  a  palace,  and  used  as  such  for  several 
centuries,  but  is  now  turned  into  stores  filled  with  all 
kinds  of  fancy-goods.  The  court  within  is  very  large, 
and  entered  by  two  gateways.  The  second  floor,  called 
the  Glass  Gallery,  is  seven  hundred  feet  long  by  three 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  wide,  filled  with  all  kinds  of 
fancy  articles,  and  thronged,  I  may  sa}',  with  thousands 
of  people.  This  is  the  principal  place  of  resort  for 
strano-ers  visitins;  Paris. 

April  30th. — To-day  we  attend  the  Congregational 
church ;  first  sermon  in  French,  second  in  English. 

3fai/  1st. — We  meet  with  Dr.  George  Chandler,  of 
Boston,  with  whom  I  traveled,  in  1868,  through  Syria, 
Palestine,  and  Asia  Minor.     We  also  meet  with  Mr.  and 


364  ■  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

Mrs.  Coryell,  of  Sliangliai,  China,  upon  whom  we  called 
when  in  that  city. 

May  2d. — To-day  we  ride  out  to  Bon  Marche,  or  the 
cheap  store  of  Paris,  where  most  of  the  American  and 
English  ladies  shop  for  silks  and  fancy-goods. 

May  3d. — We  visited  the  gallery  of  paintings  at  the 
Crystal  Palace.  This  gallery  is  well  worth  a  visit  from 
those  who  have  a  taste  for  fine  paintings  and  statuary ; 
the  place  was  perfectly  crowded,  and  it  will  be  safe  to 
say  that  there  were  at  least  five  thousand  people  present. 

May  4tth. — We  visit  the  panoramic  view  of  the  siege 
of  Paris,  one  of  the  largest  and  grandest  ever  witnessed. 
This  view  alone  would  compensate  a  traveler  from  Amer- 
ica, even  if  he  should  see  nothing  else.  The  building  in 
which  the  painting  is  shown  is  circular.  The  painting 
extends  round  the  entire  circle.  Lookins;  at  the  scene, 
not  a  particle  of  canvas  is  visible ;  the  view  is  perfectly 
transparent.  Instead  of  looking  upon  canvas,  as  in  other 
paintings,  I  imagined  that  I  was  viewing  it  in  the  dis- 
tance, through  the  atmosphere.  Here  we  have  spread 
before  us  both  city  and  country,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
extend.  In  the  distance  we  have  before  us  the  German 
batteries,  completely  surrounding  Paris,  with  the  French 
hemmed  within  the  city  walls.  During  the  siege  of  one 
hundred  and  thirty-two  days,  before  an  armistice  could 
be  ao*reed  upon,  the  Parisians  suftered  greatly  from  hun- 
ger. In  the  vast  picture  we  have  all  Paris  before  us, 
with  its  domes  and  steeples,  and  surrounding  country  in 
the  distance,  with  the  air  filled  with  shells  and  other 
dano-erous  missiles  of  war,  and  numerous  conflagrations 


FRANCE:    MACON,    DIJON,    PARIS.  355 

are  seen  all  over  the  city.     Thousands  of  workmen  are 
represented  as  having  been  engaged,  some  removing  the . 
dead  and  wounded ;  others  throwing  up  earthworks,  and 
carrying  ])ags  of  sand ;  while  others  were  working  upon 
the  ramparts  and  at  the  guns. 

May  5th. — Paris  was  conceded  to  have  been  one  of. 
the  strongest  fortified  cities  in  the  world,  surrounded  by 
a  heavy  stone-wall,  extending  thirty  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, surmounted  with  cannon  of  the  largest  calibre, 
Notwithstanding  its  prodigious  strength,  the  Germans 
marched  some  five  hundred  miles  over  bad  and  broken 
roads  with  their  heavy  battering-trains,  besieged  and 
took  this  large  and  strongly-fortified  capital  in  the  short 
period  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  days.  This  signal 
success  of  the  Germans  was  seemingly  suj^ernatural,  as 
if  the  Lord  were  fighting  their  battles,  as  he  did  those 
of  the  Isi'aelites  against  the  Egyptians. 

Jfay  Qth. — We  devote  the  forenoon  to  a  visit  to  the 
museum  in  the  Louvre,  where  we  examine  a  large  col- 
lection of  old  paintings,  executed  by  the  best  artists. 

Mai/  7t7i. — To-day  we  attended  divine  service  in  the 
Congregational  church,  which  was  well  filled,  the  con- 
gregation being  composed  chiefly  of  Americans. 

Jfay  StJi. — We  hire  a  carriage  and  ride  out  to  the 
Bois  de  Boulogne,  over  the  Champs  Elysees,  which  is  the 
widest  and  finest  avenue  in  Euroj^e,  if  not  in  the  world. 
The  park  contains  large  forest-trees,  and  some  fine  l.-kes 
of  water,  and  the  roads  are  excellent.  But,  in  points  of 
real  variety  and  beauty,  it  does  not  compare  with  the 
CJentral  Park  in  New  York.     I  think  that  the  Champs 


^QQ  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

Elysees,  in  the  beautiful  style  inwliich  it  is  laid  out,  and 
adorned  with  flowers  and  shade-trees,  presents  a  much 
finer  appearance  than  the  park. 

May  9t7i. — Paris,  at  the  present  day,  is  the  acknowl^ 
edged  capital  of  the  arts  and  sciences;  it  is  also,  without 
exception,  the  handsomest  city  in  the  world,  and  the  one 
most  resorted  to  by  strangers  from  all  quarters  of  the 
globe.  The  boulevards,  which  form  the  arteries  of  this 
famous  capital,  offer  the  most  agreeable  and  picturesque 
promenades,  shaded  as  they  are  by  ornamental  trees.. 
The  city  received  great  damage  at  the  hands  of  her  own 
people  during  the  late  war,  but  there  are  scarcely  any 
visible  ruins  remaining,  excepting  those  of  the  palace  of 
the  Tuileries,  which  is  now  undergoing  repairs. 

May  10th.  —  We  visit  the  Council  of  Arbitration. 
This  is  one  of  the  best-regulated  courts  in  Paris.  It  was 
founded  for  the  purpose  of  settling  disputes  between 
masters  and  workmen  in  an  amicable  manner,  and  it  is 
said  that  nineteen  cases  out  of  every  twenty  brought  be- 
fore it  are  satisfactorily  adjusted.  The  council  is  com- 
posed of  master-mechanics,  elected  by  the  different  trades, 
and  these  trades  are  divided  into  four  classes,  each  class 
having  a  council,  so  that  the  most  intricate  dispute  is 
decided  in  a  short  space  of  time  by  the  custom  of  the 
trade.  How  desirable  it  would  be  to  have  such  a  court 
of  justice  in  the  city  of  New  York,  where  many  of  our 
judges  have  to  decide  matters  of  which,  in  many  cases,, 
they  must  be  entirely  ignorant ! 

May  11th. — ^To-day  we   devote  principally  to  shop- 
ping.    Among  other  things  we  purchased  a  fine  megale- 


FRANCE:    MACON,    DIJON,    PARIS.  3^7 

toscopio.  There  are  so  many  fancy  articles  in  Paris  that 
one  can  spend  as  much  money  as  he  wishes,  and  get 
nothing  very  substantial  in  return. 

3£ay  12tli. — To-day  I  visit  the  fortifications  of  Paris. 
These  works  have  been  considered  as  among  the  best 
and  strongest  in  the  world.  At  a  distance  of  about  a 
mile  outside  the  former  walls  runs  an  additional  wall, 
about  forty-seven  feet  high,  bastioned  and  terraced,  in- 
cluding seventeen  outworks  or  forts,  calculated  for  the 
mounting  of  twenty-seven  hundred  and  sixty  guns.  In 
1841,  twenty  million  dollars  were  expended  to  complete 
and  strengthen  the  fortifications.  In  some  places  they 
were  much  battered  by  the  German  army  during  the 
late  war. 

May  13th. — We  visit  the  Tuileries.  This  palace  is 
an  immense  building  of  white  stone,  and  measures  around 
its  walls  nearly  a  mile  in  extent,  having  a  large  court 
within.  Durino;  the  late  war,  it  sustained  much  damag-e 
hj  fire. 

May  14:fh. — We  ride  out  to  see  the  Obelisk  of  Luxor, 
presented  by  Mehemet  Ali,  of  Egypt,  to  the  French  Gov- 
ernment.  It  weighs  two  hundred  and  fifty  tons ;  it  is 
seventy-two  feet  high,  seven  feet  six  inches  wide  at  the 
base,  sloping  up  to  five  feet  four  inches  at  its  top,  and  is 
one  piece  of  stone.  It  took  three  years  to  bring  this 
stone  from  Thebes,  iu  Egypt,  a  distance  of  twenty-five 
hundred  miles,  at  a  cost  of  some  four  hundred  thousand 
dollars. 

May  15th. — ^To-day  we  leave  Paris  by  the  one  o'clock 
train,  e?i  route  for  London,  by  the  way  of  Havre  and 


368  AROUilD    THE    WORLD. 

Soutliampton ;  distance  tliree  Luuclred  and  forty  -  tw  o 
miles,  fare  forty  francs  apiece.  The  country  tlirough 
which  we  j)ass  is  fertile,  and  the  farm-houses  are  very 
well  built.  It  has  been  my  experience,  in  all  countries 
through  which  I  have  traveled,  to  find  that  where  the 
farm-houses  look  neat,  and  are  painted  or  whitewashed, 
there  the  soil  is  universally  good;  but,  where  the  dwell- 
ings have  a  poor,  dilapidated  appearance,  we  have  strong 
evidence  of  inferior  soil.  We  ride  a  great  j^art  of  the 
way  through  the  beautiful  valley  bordering  on  the  Seine, 
and  reach  Havre  at  5  p.  m. 

Havre  is  one  of  the  principal  seaports  of  France,  and 
contains  upward  of  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  city  is  situated  at  tlie  outlet  of  the  Seine,  and  pos- 
sesses two  very  tine  harbors,  one  natural,  the  other  arti- 
ficial. At  8.30  p.  M.  we  leave  Havre  by  steam shi]),  and 
cross  the  Channel  to  Southampton. 


CHAPTER   XXXV. 

ENGLAND  :    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL. 

May  16tJi. — We  arrive  in  Soutliampton  this  moraing 
at  six  o'clock,  Laving  been  nine  and  a  lialf  hours  crossing 
the  Channel.  Southampton  is  an  excellent  harbor  for 
shipping,  but  it  does  not  compare  in  magnitude  with 
Liverpool.  The  city  contains  only  about  forty-five  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  Here,  again,  we  have  our  trunks  ex- 
amined by  the  custom-house  officials. 

The  legal  currency  of  England  is  j)Ounds,  shillings, 
pence,  and  farthings;  one  English  jjound  is  equivalent 
to  four  dollars  and  eighty  cents  of  American  coin;  one 
shilling,  twenty-four  cents ;  one  j^enny,  two  cents ;  one 
farthino;,  one-half  cent. 

We  resume  our  journey  this  morning  by  the  7  a.  m. 
train,  en  route  for  London.  Tlie  country,  so  far  as  we 
can  see  along  the  road,  presents  good  farming-lands,  un- 
der an  excellent  state  of  cultivation.  We  arrive  in  Lon- 
don at  10.30  A.  M. 

The  city  of  London,  the  metropolis  of  the  United 
Kingdom  of  Great  Britain  and  L'eland,  and  the  most 
wealthy  city  in  the  world,  contains  a  population  of  about 
three  million  four  hundred  thousand  souls.  It  is  situ- 
ated on  the  river  Thames,  some  ninety  miles  from  the 
sea.     It  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  which  is  here 


370  AEOUXD    THE    WORLD. 

about  twelve  hundred  feet  wide,  and  is  crossed  by  sev- 
eral stone  and  ii-on  bridges.  London  was  formerly  the 
largest  seaport  in  the  world,  but,  in  consequence  of  its 
being  so  for  inland,  and  the  river-current  running  so 
rapidly,  it  became  somewhat  hazardous  for  such  an  in- 
crease of  shipping,  so  that  her  commerce  has  been  of  late 
years  reduced  and  added  to  that  of  Liverpool  and  South- 
ampton, which  ports  have  easier  access  to  the  ocean. 

London  is  of  great  antiquity.  When  it  was  in  pos- 
session of  the  Romans  it  was  inclosed  by  a  heavy  stone- 
wall, but  there  is  nothing  now  visible  of  this  ancient 
barrier.  For  several  hundred  years  London  had  suffered 
much  from  tire  and  pestilence,  but  it  is  now  considered 
to  be  one  of  the  healthiest  and  best-governed  cities  in 
the  world.  The  metropolis,  with  its  suburbs,  covers  one 
hundred  and  twenty  square  miles.  It  is  distinguished 
for  its  active  air  of  business,  which  23ervades  it  in  every 
direction.  The  dwellings  are  plain  and  substantial,  and 
the  public  buildings  are  built  more  for  use  than  orna- 
ment. 

May  17th. — To-day  we  go  out  to  see  some  of  the  ob- 
jects of  interest ;  but  there  is  so  much  to  see  amid  the 
great  throng  of  people,  that  we  scarcely  know  where  ta 
go  first.  We  finally  make  our  way  to  the  House  of  Par- 
liament, which  is  comparatively  a  new  building,  having 
a  frontao^e  on  the  Thames  of  nine  hundred  feet.  It  is  of 
white  marble,  decorated  with  rich  statues  and  coats  of 
arms,  and  in  size  is  more  than  five  times  as  large  as  the 
new  City  Hall  in  New  York,  but  has  not  cost  as  much 
money.     The  House  of  Parliament  is  divided  into  two 


ENGLAND:    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL.  37X 

parts ;  at  the  one  end  is  the  Chamber  of  Lords,  and  at 
the  other  the  Chamber  of  Commons.  The  Houses  are 
now  in  session.  The  members  are  dressed  in  black-silk 
gowns,  nearly  reaching  to  the  floor,  \vith  white  wigs  upon 
their  heads;  to  a  stranger,  unaccustomed  to  seeing  such 
a  style  of  costume,  tliey  would  seem  more  like  a  body  of 
old  women  than  leo;islators. 

May  18th. — Buckingham  Palace  is  a  fine  building,, 
and  is  the  residence  of  the  queen  and  royal  family  when 
they  are  in  the  city.  The  principal  object  of  interest  is 
the  throne-room,  elegantly  decorated  with  rich  striped 
crimson  satin,  with  gold  trimmings.  On  passing  through 
we  come  to  the  queen's  drawing-room,  neatly  furnished^ 
and  the  walls  adorned  with  choice  paintings.  We  were 
conducted  all  through  the  palace  (excepting  the  queen's 
private  apartments) — the  library,  green  drawing-room^ 
gilt-room,  and  the  sculpture-gallery — in  all  of  which  are 
choice  pictures.  Here  is  one  painting  for  which  George 
IV.  paid  five  thousand  guineas. 

3fat/  Idth. — In  addition  to  other  places  of  interest,  we 
visit  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  the  largest  Protestant  church 
in  the  world ;  .in  size  it  is  next  to  St.  Peter's  in  Eome. 
Its  length  is  five  hundred  feet,  by  three  hundred  and 
eleven  feet  in  breadth,  and  the  height  from  the  pave- 
ment to  the  top  of  the  cross  is  four  hundred  feet.  The 
large  bell  of  this  cathedral  is  only  tolled  on  the  occasion 
of  a  death  in  the  royal  family. 

The  English  are  a  church-going  people.  It  is  said 
that  there  are  over  nine  hundred  churches  in  London. 
Many  of  them  are  remarkable  for  their  antiquity,  others 


372  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

for  tlieir  arcliitectural  beauty  aud  elaborate  finisli.  Bow 
Cinircli  is  a  liandsome  edifice,  located  in  a  very  conspicu- 
ous position,  on  the  south  side  of  Cheapside.  In  this 
church  the  consecrations  of  the  Bisho]3S  of  London  take 
place.  St.  George's  Church  is  said  to  be  remarkable  for 
the  numerous  weddings  which  take  place  there. 

May  20th. — To-day  we  visit  the  Bank  of  England,  the 
most  extensive  banking  institution  in  the  world.  It  has 
in  its  employ  more  than  one  thousand  clerks,  with  sala- 
ries ranging  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  six  thousand 
dollars  per  year.  The  building  itself  is  not  very  attrac- 
tive. The  most  interesting  a23artmeuts  are  the  bullion- 
offices,  the  weighing-office,  the  treasury,  and  the  aj^art- 
ments  where  the  bank-notes  are  printed. 

The  General  Post-Office  is  another  huge  structure, 
built  of  marble  in  the  Ionic  style.  This  establishment 
employs  over  twenty  thousand  clerks. 

May  21sf. — This  day  being  the  Sabbath,  we  attend 
Bev.  Dr.  Spurgeon's  church  in  the  forenoon.  This  famous 
Baptist  divine  is  al)out  forty  years  of  age,  of  medium 
height,  and  rather  fleshy,  with  nothing  very  striking  in 
his  appearance,  but  easy  and  pleasing  in  his  address,  and 
possessing  a  loud  and  clear  voice,  which  could  be  dis- 
tinctly heard  in  every  part  of  the  house.  His  style  of 
preacbing  is  plain  and  simple,  but  logical,  so  that  the 
most  unlearned  could  understand  every  sentence;  his 
words  were  expressed  with  great  force  and  power,  which 
seemed  to  thrill  every  heart.  (Text,  Hebrews  vi.  19: 
•*'  Which  hope  we  have  as  an  anchor  of  the  soul,  both  sure 
and  steadfast,  and  which  entereth  into  that  within  the 


ENGLAND:    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL.  373 

Yeil.")  The  most  profound  silence  j^revailecl  in  tlie  au- 
dience. The  interior  of  the  church  is  oval,  with  two 
unbroken  tiers  of  galleries,  suj^ported  by  iron  columns, 
and  will  seat  six  thousand  people.  On  this  occasion  the 
building  was  crowded  to  its  fullest  capacity  ;  many  were 
obliged  to  stand,  and  hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  could 
not  gain  admission.  The  preacher's  argument  w^as  so 
clear,  forcible,  and  childlike,  that  he  reminded  me  of  the 
aj)0stles  and  the  prophets.  The  congregation  began  to 
assemble  at  least  an  hour  before  the  service  commenced. 
Before  entering  the  church,  every  stranger  was  presented 
witli  a  small  envelope,  on  which  ^vas  inscribed  this  re- 
quest :  "  Inclose  your  contribution  within  this  card  for 
the  benefit  and  spread  of  the  gospel  of  Christ." 

3Iay  22c/. — This  afternoon  we  go  to  see  Madame  Tus- 
saud's  exhibition  of  wax-figures.  It  is  decidedly  the  finest 
collection  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  The  fio-ures  are  of 
life-size,  and  so  j)erfect  in  construction  that  on  entering 
the  room  I  imagined  them  to  be  living  j)ersonages.  They 
were  all  dressed  in  the  style  of  the  age  in  which  they 
lived,  to  suit  the  characters  which  they  were  intended 
to  represent.  Among  them  we  saw  George  Washington, 
Abraham  Lincoln,  Andrew  Johnson,  and  General  Grant. 
We  also  saw  the  royal  family  of  England  ;  John  Wesley, 
the  founder  of  Methodism  ;  John  Knox  and  John  Calvin, 
the  great  Reformers ;  and  many  others  of  note,  all  dressed 
in  the  style  of  costume  of  their  own  time. 

3Iay  23cl. — To-day  we  ride  out  to  see  the  Royal  Zo- 
ological Gardens,  in  Regent's  Park.  This  is  one  of  the 
famous  institutions  of  London.     The  fee  for  admittance 


374  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

is  one  Eno-lisli  shilling:.  There  are  some  refresliino;  little 
lakes,  bordered  by  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs;  and 
neat  little  thatched  cottages,  almost  enveloped  in  the 
running  woodbine.  Here,  too,  the  birds  are  filling  the 
perfumed  air  with  their  heavenly  music.  Following  the 
beautiful  serpentine  walks,  we  spy  out  the  abodes  of  the 
bears,  monkeys,  and  numerous  other  animals,  gathered 
from  every  j^art  of  the  globe,  and  forming  one  of  the 
:finest  collections  in  England. 

May  24:th. — When  I  was  in  London  on  a  previous 
o  casion,  I  rode  out  to  \\'indsor,  which  is  reached  by 
rail  in  about  an  hour.  We  went  most  of  the  distance 
along  the  border  of  the  Thames,  lined  with  small  towns 
and  villages.  Windsor  is  situated  on  the  Thames,  and 
contains  a  population  of  about  twelve  thousand  souls. 
The  palace  and  castle  cover  a  superficial  area  of  ten  acres. 
W^indsor  Park  is  beautifully  laid  out  with  roads  and 
•shade-trees,  and  contains  seventeen  hundred  acres.  We 
ascended  the  old  castle-walls,  whence  we  had  the  whole 
country  spread  out  before  us,  with  the  picturesque 
Thames  winding  through  the  beautiful  plains  till  lost  in 
the  distance ;  and  as  we  looked  through  the  old  spy-glass 
toward  London,  the  entire  country  appeared  dotted  with 
small  towns  and  hamlets.  We  now  enter  and  are  shown 
through  the  old  chapel,  which  is  of  great  interest.  Here 
we  see  the  tombs  erected  to  the  memory  of  departed 
members  of  the  royal  family.  The  castle  lies  off  from 
the  town  of  Windsor,  upon  an  elevation,  ascended  by 
steps,  and  completely  overlooking  the  town  itself.  It  is 
in  this  castle  that  the  marriages  of  the  royal  family  take 


ENGLAND:    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL.  375 

place,  and  on  their  death  they  are  buried  in  the  vault  of 
this  chapel.  It  is  also  in  this  chapel  that  the  installa- 
tion of  the  knights  takes  place.  The  interior  of  the  cas- 
tle is  rich  in  decorations  and  works  of  art,  embi-acing 
pictures,  statuary,  and  bronzes.  The  principal  gallery 
in  which  these  works  are  shown  is  over  five  hundred  feet 
in  leno;th.  In  the  centre  of  the  castle  is  situated  the 
round  to^s"er  in  which  James  I.  of  Scotland  was  confined. 
A  short  distance  from  here  is  the  residence  of  the  late 
Duchess  of  Kent,  the  queen's  mother,  in  which  she  re- 
sided during  her  lifetime. 

May  2Dt/i. — St.  James's  Palace  is  more  ancient  in  its 
general  aspect  than  some  others,  but  not  so  inviting.  It 
was  the  residence  of  the  sovereigns  of  England  previous 
to  Victoria's  occupying  Buckingham  Palace;  the  queen, 
however,  still  holds  drawing-rooms  here.  In  this  23alace 
Charles  I.  took  final  leave  of  his  children. 

Lambeth  Palace  is  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Thames, 
and  is  the  town  residence  of  the  Archbishoj)  of  Canter- 
bury. It  is  an  old  edifice,  and  dates  back  to  the  middle 
of  the  thirteenth  century.  Its  library  contains  a  collec- 
tion of  some  of  the  oldest  nianuscripts  in  Europe. 

The  Tower  of  London  is  said  by  tradition  to  have 
been  built  by  Julius  Caesar.  The  foi  tress  is,  at  all  events, 
of  great  antiquity ;  it  covers  an  area  of  ten  acres,  and  its 
walls  are  at  least  fourteen  feet  thick.  We  were  shown 
through  the  Barracks,  Armory,  Jewel -House,  White 
Tower,  St.  Peter's  Tower,  and  the  Bloody  Tower,  in 
which  Richard  III.  had  his  nephews  murdered  ;  the  Brick 
Tower,  in  which  Lady  Jane  Grey  was  imj^risoned ;  also 


376  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

tLe  prison  in  which  Anne  Boleyn  was  incarcerated,  and 
other  rooms  too  numerous  to  mention.  This  fortress  was 
used  as  a  residence  for  the  monarchs  of  Eno;land  down 
to  the  time  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  also  as  a  prison  for 
state  criminals.  It  is  said  that  many  of  the  kings,  queens, 
warriors,  and  statesmen,  after  having  been  incarcerated, 
were  put  to  death  within  these  dark  and  gloomy  walls. 
Here  we  were  shown  the  old  execution-knife  and  bloody 
block  once  in  use  for  chopping  off  the  heads  of  royal  and 
other  criminals,  and  the  gutter  formed  in  the  stone  floor 
to  carry  off  the  victims'  blood.  We  were  also  taken 
through  the  jewel-room,  containing  many  of  the  jewels 
of  royalty ;  they  were  inclosed  in  a  large  glass  case,  se- 
cured by  heavy  iron  bars,  among  which  we  saw  the 
crown  made  for  Queen  Victoria's  coronation,  at  a  cost 
of  six  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  the  laro;e  ring;  worn 
by  the  Black  Prince,  as  well  as  the  crown  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales,  and  also  many  other  crowns  said  to  have  been 
worn  by  the  various  monarchs ;  here,  too,  are  exliibited  the 
gold  and  ivory  sceptre,  and  the  coronation  spoon,  which 
are  estimated  to  be  worth  fifteen  million  dollars. 

Westminster  Abbey  is  of  much  interest.  Its  style 
of  architecture  is  Gothic.  Here  both  kings  and  queens 
have  been  crowned  from  the  time  of  Edward  the  Con- 
fessor down  to  Queen  Victoria ;  underneath  its  floor 
many  of  them  have  been  buried.  Here  we  see  the  monu- 
ment erected  to  the  memory  of  Mary  Queen  of  Scots — 
Queen  Elizabeth  and  Mary  lie  in  the  same  tomb ;  here 
also  are  handsome  monuments  to  the  memory  of  Shake- 
speare, and  scores  of  other  great  men. 


r 


ENGLAND:    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL.  377 

From  here  we  go  to  Hyde  Park,  wbicli  is  the  most 
fashionable  park  in  London.  All  ranks  nnd  classes,  from 
the  peasant  to  the  sovereign,  may  be  found  here  on  a 
pleasant  afternoon.  This  park  covers  an  area  of  four 
hundred  acres;  the  grounds  are  mostly  level,  and  the 
paths  are  not  very  winding.  There  is  a  beautiful  lake 
connected  with  the  park,  which  winds  round  in  many 
forms,  and  the  shade-trees  are  very  large. 

We  make  an  excursion  some  few  miles  down  the 
Thames  to  Greenwich.  We  pass  by  the  ship-yard  in 
which  the  steamship  Great  Eastern  w^as  built;  also  the 
East  India  Company's  docks,  in  which  the  principal  ship- 
ping of  London  lies.  These  docks,  or  quays,  extend  over 
a  mile  along  the  river-front,  and  as  far  back.  They  con- 
sist of  large  basins,  excavated  for  the  purpose  of  taking 
in  ships ;  at  short  intervals,  fronting  on  the  river,  there 
are  locks,  through  which  the  ships  enter  into  the  basins 
at  high  tide,  and  which  are  kept  closed  at  low  water. 
In  consequence  of  the  great  rise  and  fall  of  the  tide,  it  is 
impracticable  to  have  the  shipping  exposed  at  the  river- 
front. We  passed  by  a  ship  which  had  grounded  in  the 
river  at  high  water ;  she  lay  high  and  dry  at  low  tide,  so 
that  her  keel  was  visible.  The  great  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide  in  the  Thames  are  detrimental  to  the  shipping  in- 
terests of  London,  and  much  of  her  commerce,  as  pre- 
viously remarked,  has  been  diverted  in  consequence  to 
Liverpool  and  Southampton,  where  vessels  have  easier 
access  to  the  sea. 

The  principal  edifices  in  London  are  not  so  elaborate 
in  style  and  finish  as  are  those  of  Paris,  and  there  is  also 

25 


378  AROUXD    THE    WORLD. 

a  marked  difference  in  tlie  population  of  the  two  capi- 
tals. While  the  people  of  Paris  are  all  for  fashion  and 
outward  show,  those  of  London  have  more  regard  for 
domestic  comforts. 

May  ^(Stli. — This  morning  we  leave  London  by  the 
ten  o'clock  train,  over  the  Northwestern  Railway,  for 
Liverpool;  distance  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  fare 
twenty-nine  shillings.  Just  outside  of  London,  the  coun- 
try is  lined  with  beautiful  gardens  teeming  with  luxu- 
riant vegetation,  and  the  wide  avenues  are  filled  with 
heavy  teams  loaded  with  produce  going  into  the  city. 
The  face  of  the  countrv  is  somewhat  rollino-,  but  fertile. 
The  farms  are  larg-e,  but  the  dwellino-s  rather  small :  the 
barns  and  out-houses  are  of  good  size,  all  of  brick,  built 
in  the  most  substantial  manner. 

It  is  a  most  singular  fact  that  when  two  strange  Eng- 
lishmen meet  in  a  railway-carriage  they  will  not  converse 
too"ether,  without  a  formal  introduction.  We  were  ac- 
companied  by  two  well-dressed,  respectable-looking  Eng- 
lishmen, strangers  to  each  other ;  one  seemed  more  genial 
than  the  other,  and  asked  his  countryman  some  simple 
question,  to  which  he  made  no  reply,  but  the  latter  was 
very  willing  to  talk  with  us  Americans,  whereupon  they 
both  joined  in  conversation  with  us,  as  if  we  had  been 
old  acquaintances,  but  would  not  exchange  a  word  be- 
tween themselves,  though  we  were  most  cordially  treated 
by  both. 

At  3  p.  M.  we  arrived  in  Liverpool  and  put  up  at  the 
Washington  Hotel;  board  will  average  in  this  hotel 
about  fifteen  shillings  per  day. 


ENGLAND:    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL.  379 

May  2^ til. — Liverpool  is  situated  on  the  river  Mer- 
sey, about  two  miles  from  tlie  sea,  and  has  a  population 
of  more  than  seven  hundred  thousand  souls.  It  is  the 
largest  seaport  in  the  world,  except  New  York.  Her 
docks  and  quays  have  no  equal ;  they  are  built  of  large 
blocks  of  cut  granite,  fastened  together  with  heavy  iron 
bolts.  When  a  ship  arrives  in  port  she  is  locked  in  the 
dock,  and  there  remains  till  discharged  of  her  cargo. 

May  2Sth. — This  being  the  Sabbath,  we  attend  the 
Wesleyan  Methodist  church. 

May  29th. — Liverpool,  in  activity,  is  similar  to  Lon- 
don, New  York,  and  other  large  commercial  ports,  full 
of  bustle  and  noise,  and  has  gotten  to  be  rather  a  pretty 
city.  Some  fine  hotels  have  been  recently  erected,  but 
the  great  majority  of  American  tourists  hitherto,  from  the 
Continent,  have  only  stopped  here  long  enough  to  make 
ready  to  take  ship  for  home. 

May  80th. — To-day  I  ride  out  to  the  ship-yards,  to 
examine  the  building  of  iron  vessels.  They  have  ma- 
chinery so  perfect  for  shaping  iron  for  the  construction 
of  ships  that  an  iron  vessel  can  be  put  together  more 
cheaply,  and  in  less  time,  than  it  requires  to  build  a 
wooden  one.  They  cut  up  and  j^lane  iron  with  as  much 
apparent  ease  as  the  ship-builders  in  America  work  wood. 
A  steamship  in  England  can  be  built  of  iron,  with  en- 
gines, masts,  sails,  rigging,  all  complete,  for  one  hundred 
dollars  per  ton,  and  a  sailing-ship  for  from  sixty  to  sev- 
enty dollars  per  ton.  Something  of  this  facility,  if  not 
cheapness,  in  building  iron  steamships  is  being  shown  in 
this  country  by  Mr.  John  Roach  at  Chester,  Pennsylvania. 


380  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

May  2>lst. — To-day  I  devote  chiefly  to  examining  the 
dry-docks  in  Liverpool,  vs^liich  are  the  best  and  largest 
in  the  world.  They  are  constructed  of  large  blocks  of 
granite,  and  bolted  together  in  the  most  substantial  man- 
ner. The  largest  which  came  under  my  observation  was 
eight  hundred  feet  long,  having  in  dock  three  large  shij)s 
lying  in  a  line,  one  ahead  of  the  other.  The  ships  are 
floated  in  at  high  tide,  and  then  the  gates  are  closed ;  at 
the  following  low  tide  the  water  is  let  out  by  a  sluice- 
door  at  one  end  of  the  dock;  when  the  water  is  out — 
which  has  a  fall  of  from  sixteen  to  eighteen  feet — then 
the  gate  is  closed,  leaving  the  ship  dry  without  any 
pumping,  although  they  have  pumps  constructed  in  case 
of  accident  to  the  gates.  The  largest  ship-of-the-line  can 
be  docked  in  less  than  an  hour.  The  wages  for  ship-car- 
penters and  calkers  is  four  shillings  and  sixpence  per 
day,  which  is  considerably  less  than  the  rate  paid  in  the 
United  States  for  similar  work. 

There  is  another  style  of  dock  in  Liverpool — com- 
monly called  basins.  In  consequence  of  the  great  rise 
and  fall  of  the  tide,  and  the  swift  current  in  the  Mersey,. 
there  is  great  danger  in  anchoring  vessels  in  the  stream,, 
and  all  ships  are  floated  in  these  basins  at  high  tide,  and 
there  remain  locked  in  until  their  cargoes  have  been  dis- 
charged or  shipped.  These  docks,  or  basins,  have  gates 
for  ingress,  which  are  kept  closed,  being  only  opened  at 
high  tide  to  let  ships  in  or  out ;  hence  the  basins  are 
kept  constantly  filled  with  water,  so  that  there  is  no  rise 
nor  fall  of  the  water  as  of  that  in  the  river.  They  are 
built  of  large  blocks  of  granite,  laid  in  mortar,  strapped 


ENGLAND:    LONDON,    LIVERPOOL.  33 1 

and  bolted  togetlier  with  iron  rods  in  the  strongest  man- 
ner. These  docks  reach  along  the  river  frontage  some 
six  or  seven  miles,  making  a  complete  and  safe  harbor 
for  shipping. 

June  1st. — We  ride  out  on  the  Park  road,  over  which 
is  a  fine  drive,  and  one  of  the  principal  resorts  in  Liver- 
pool. The  country  mansions  are  of  stone,  mostly  in 
Gothic  style,  with  their  lawns  laid  out  in  winding  roads ; 
the  dwellings  are  hid  by  large  shade-trees,  which  give 
them  a  lonely  appearance,  and  they  do  not  present  that 
cheerful  and  lively  aspect  that  the  more  modern  countiy 
cottao;es  of  America  do. 

(Tune  2d. — This  morning  we  leave  Liverpool  by  the 
ten  o'clock  train  en  route  for  Holyhead,  Wales ;  distance 
■one  hundred  and  ten  miles,  fare  twenty  shillings  each. 
At  twelve  o'clock  we  stop  at  Chester,  and  put  up  at  the 
■Queen's  Hotel,  board  twelve  shillings  per  day. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

wales:    CHESTER,    BANGOR,    HOLYHEAD,    CONWAY. 

June  2d. — Wales  is  tlie  soutliwestern  portion  of  the 
island  of  Great  Britain.  Its  greatest  length  is  ninety 
miles,  and  it  varies  from  forty  to  eighty  miles  in  breadth. 
Into  this  country  the  ancient  Britons  retreated  from  the 
advances  of  successive  invaders,  and  here  maintained  their 
independence.  The  Romans  were  unable  to  reduce  them 
to  complete  subjection. 

This  mountainous  country,  defended  by  British  valor,, 
remained  the  secure  retreat  of  British  independence,  and 
was  never  entirely  subjected  to  the  crown  of  England 
till  the  reign  of  Edward  I.,  who,  in  order  to  reconcile  the 
Welsh  to  the  English  yoke,  sent  his  queen  into  the  coun- 
try, where  she  gave  birth  to  a  son  who  was  duly  ac- 
knowledged as  their  prince.  From  that  period  to  the 
present,  the  eldest  son  of  the  King  of  England  has  been 
styled  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  as  such  has  deriyed  cer- 
tain revenues  from  the  country. 

'Tune  3<:/. — In  the  natural  aspect  of  the  country,  its 
mountains  and  hills,  its  valleys  and  glens,  its  lakes  and 
rivers,  few  regions  can  be  said  to  surj)ass  Wales  in  beauty 
and  grandeur ;  while  almost  every  foot  of  her  territory 
is  associated  with  historical  events  of  more  than  ordinary 
interest,  since  it  abounds  in  the  remains  of  antique  en-^ 


WALES:    CUESTER,    BANGOR,    ETC.  ;383 

campments,  fortresses,  castles,  and  castellated  mansions. 
At  different  periods  a  great  variety  of  specimens  of  mili- 
tary architecture  has  been  found,  exhibiting  the  diver- 
sified styles  of  different  ages.  The  inhabitants,  too,  are 
still  a  distinct  and  very  remarkable  people,  and,  in  the 
remoter  districts,  yet  speak  the  language  of  their  British 
ancestors. 

June  4:fh. — The  city  of  Chester  is  situated  on  the  ele- 
vated banks  of  the  river  Dee,  by  which  it  is  bounded  on 
the  south  and  west  sides.  The  Eomans  are  believed  to 
have  been  its  founders,  and  its  site  was  selected  by  them 
for  one  of  their  chief  military  stations.  Many  remains 
of  Roman  antiquity  have  at  different  times  been  discov- 
ered in  its  vicinity,  such  as  lamps,  urns,  statues,  weapons 
of  war,  coins,  pottery,  and  other  curious  specimens  of  the 
conquerors'  arts.  Chester  is  surrounded  by  thick  stone- 
walls, constructed  by  the  Romans,  which  afford  a  very 
agreeable  walk  of  about  two  miles.  In  making  the  cir- 
cuit of  the  town,  on  the  top  of  this  wall,  a  fine  view  is 
oljtained  of  the  surrounding  country  in  every  direction, 
and  an  opportunity  afforded  for  observing  the  peculiar 
construction  and  antiquated  architecture  of  the  city.  The 
surroundings  of  Chester  abound  in  rich  gardens,  delight- 
ful groves,  stately  trees,  and  fragrant  flowers. 

The  old  castle  was  a  noble  structure  in  the  olden 
time,  little  of  which,  however,  now  remains,  excepting  a 
tower  bearing  the  name  of  Julius  Agricola,  who,  in  the 
year  78  a.  d.  commanded  the  Roman  forces  in  Britain,  of 
which  he  was  made  governor,  extended  his  conquests 
into  Scotland,  and  built  a  chain  of  forts  from  the  Clyde 


384  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

to  the  Fritli  of  Forth.     A  more  modern  edifice  has  been . 
substituted  for  the  ohl  fortress,  designed  for  the  use  of 
the  garrison.     It  contains  forty  thousand  stand  of  arms, 
besides  one  hundred  pieces  of  ordnance. 

June  otK — We  leave  Chester  by  the  twelve  o'clock 
train  en  route  for  Holyhead ;  but  break  our  tour  again 
at  Bangor,  three  liours'  ride  from  Chester,  where  we  put 
up  at  the  British  Hotel,  which  is  the  best  in  the  town, 
at  eight  shillings  per  day.  The  hotel  is  small,  but  toler- 
ably well  kept.  Bangor,  situated  on  or  near  the  straits 
of  Menai,  is  a  town  of  great  antiquity.  The  rising 
grounds  about  the  city  in  every  direction  afford  exten- 
sive prospects,  embracing  a  great  variety  of  coast  and 
mountain  scenery.  Owing  to  its  peculiar  situation,  it 
has  long  been  a  favorite  place  of  resort,  and  the  number 
of  visitors  has  greatly  increased  since  the  construction  of 
the  suspension-bridge  across  the  Menai  Straits.  The 
city,  including  the  suburbs,  contains  about  fifteen  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  The  most  important  buildings  are  tlie 
old  cathedral,  the  episcopal  palace,  the  meeting-houses  of 
the  various  denominations,  Roman  Catholic  church.  Free 
School,  Union  Poor- House,  Market-House,  Assembly- 
Kooms,  Temperance  Hall,  and  three  banks. 

June  6t7i. — In  the  forenoon  we  attended  the  Wes- 
leyan  Methodist  church  ;  in  the  afternoon  we  went  to 
the  cathedral.  The  foundation-walls  of  this  old  edifice 
were  laid  in  the  fifth  century,  but  the  building  has  been 
destroyed  by  its  enemies,  in  difterent  wars,  some  two 
or  three  times,  and  as  often  rebuilt.  In  some  of  the 
churches  preaching  is  in  the  Welsh  language.     It  is  a 


WALES:    CHESTER,    BANGOR,    ETC.  385' 

singular  fact  tliat  in  tlie  British  Isles  tlie  people  speak 
iive  distinct  dialects  —  Welsh,  Lowland  Scotch,  old 
Gaelic,  Irish,  or  Erse,  and  English ;  the  latter,  of  course, 
is  the  prevailing  language,  and  is  spoken  by  the  educated 
ihrouo-hout  the  kingdom. 

June  1th. — To-day  we  ride  out  some  seven  or  eight 
miles  to  the  slate-quarries.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  excursions  made  from  Bangor,  over  a  good 
country-road.  These  quarries  are  the  largest  in  Eng- 
land, employing  some  three  thousand  men  to  work  them. 
On  our  return  we  I'ode  through  the  village  of  Bethesda, 
containing  about  five  or  six  thousand  inhabitants,  who 
are  chiefly  employed  in  the  slate-quarries.  We  also 
passed  by  Lord  Penrhyn's  castle,  which  occupies  a  com- 
mandino;  elevation.  It  is  constructed  in  the  Norman 
style  of  architecture,  and  displays  a  vast  range  of  build- 
ings, crowned  with  lofty  towers.  The  adjoining  park  is 
studded  with  stately  trees,  and  is  seven  miles  in  circuit. 

June  Sth. — We  visit  the  market-house,  where  all 
kinds  of  meats,  poultry,  and  vegetables,  are  offered  for 
sale.  It  was  most  amusing  to  see  the  countiy-people 
•come  in,  some  on  foot,  others  in  carts,  the  latter  mostly 
driven  by  women.  The  fish-women  were  the  most  strik- 
ing in  appearance ;  they  were  generally  young  and 
pretty,  very  neat  and  tidy,  and  looking  characteristically 
Welsh  in  their  white  caps  and  bright-colored  petticoats. 
It  is  said  that  they  never  marry  out  of  their  own  class. 

June  9th. — We  visit  Prospect  Park,  by  ascending  a 
mountain  upon  whose  summit  the  park  is  situated, 
whence  a  magnificent  view  is  obtained  of  the  town,  lying 


386  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

almost  at  our  feet,  with  a  picturesque  landscape  in  the 
distance,  dotted  with  towns  and  hamlets. 

At  3  p.  M.  we  resume  our  tour.  On  reaching  the 
railway-station  we  meet  with  Captain  Grant,  of  the 
Koyal  Navy,  who  accompanied  us  on  our  passage  of 
fourteen  days  from  Hong-Kong,  China,  to  Ceylon.  At 
4  p.  M.  we  arrive  at  Holyhead,  and  put  up  at  the  Royal 
Hotel ;  board  eight  shillings  per  day. 

Holyhead  is  situated  upon  an  island,  or  more  prop- 
erly a  peninsula,  which  at  high  tide  becomes  insulated. 
From  this  point  the  English  mails  cross  twice  every  day 
to  Ireland.  It  is  also  the  point  of  termination  of  the 
great  railways  from  London  and  Chester.  The  rocky 
scenery  around  Holyhead  is  uncommonly  grand  and 
romantic.  The  city  contains  about  seven  thousand  in- 
habitants, and  there  is  more  of  an  air  of  activity  and 
business  about  it  than  one  might  expect  in  such  a 
remote  res^ion. 

J^une  loth. — Whit-Monday  is  kept  in  Wales  as  a 
general  holiday.  The  stores  and  shops  are  all  closed, 
and  the  people  promenading  the  streets.  In  the  after- 
noon we  went  upon  the  lawn  fronting  on  the  sea,  where 
young  gentlemen  and  ladies  were  enjoying  themselves  by 
moving  around  a  ring,  formed  by  some  of  them  clasping 
hands,  while  others,  running  around  the  circle,  kissed 
each  other,  after  the  manner  of  little  school-children. 

June  llfh. — The  breakwater,  which  is  built  out  into 
the  Irish  Sea  at  Holyhead,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Great 
Britain.  It  not  only  protects  the  shipping,  but  forms  a 
complete  fortification  for  the  protection  of  the  city  in 


WALES:    GHESTEB,    BAN  GOB,    ETC.  387 

case  of  an  invasion,  and  also  makes  a  very  fine  prome- 
nade for  pedestrians. 

June  12t?t. — The  promontory  of  tlie  Head  is  formed 
by  an  immense  precipitous  rock.  The  part  next  to  the 
sea  is  hollowed  into  caverns,  affording  shelter  to  innu- 
merable sea-birds,  whose  eggs  are  highly  esteemed  as  a 
delicacy ;  and  the  only  way  in  which  they  can  be  pro- 
cured is  by  men  descending  from  the  summit  by  means 
of  a  rope  tied  around  the  body  and  fastened  to  a  stake 
above — which,  of  course,  is  a  very  hazardous  proceeding. 

June  12>tli. — We  leave  Holyhead  by  the  twelve 
o'clock  train  for  Liverpool,  with  the  determination  of 
taking  ship  to-morrow  for  America.  After  having  trav- 
eled so  long  a  distance,  I  begin  to  realize  that  the 
world  is  too  large  and  life  too  short  to  see  everything  ; 
hence  we  turn  our  faces  homeward.  At  three  o'clock 
we  make  a  halt  at  Conway. 

This  is  a  small  town,  but  it  is  beautifully  situated 
upon  the  high  bank  of  a  river  of  the  same  name.  The 
town  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  twelve  feet  thick,  strength- 
ened with  towers  and  battlements.  The  great  object  of 
interest  is  the  old  castle,  erected  in  1224  by  Edward  I. 
When  in  its  perfect  state,  this  castle  must  have  been 
superior  to  any  fortress  in  Britain.  It  is  situated  on  the 
verge  of  a  precipitous  rock,  one  side  bounded  by  and 
overlooking  the  river,  and  the  other  facing  a  deep  ravine. 
The  walls  are  of  great  thickness,  and  surmounted  by 
watch-towers.  The  interior  of  the  castle  was  originally 
divided  into  two  courts,  the  largest  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  long,  with  a  lofty  ceiling.     This  old  castle  is 


^88  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

now  in  a  dilapidated  state,  nothing  ])ut  tlie  walls  re- 
maining. 

From  Conway  we  proceed  to  Liverpool.  The  farms 
along  the  route  are  not  as  large  as  in  some  other  parts 
of  Great  Britain,  but  the  vegetation  is  prolific.  The 
•scenery  is  beautiful  and  varied,  and  the  fields  are  inclosed 
by  hawthorn-hedges,  which  are  now  covered  with  green 
leaves  and  white  blossoms,  filling  the  air  with  sweet  and 
refreshing  odors. 


CHAPTER   XXXVII. 

ATLANTIC    OCEAlSr, 

June  14fA.— ^To-day  we  embark  on  board  the  steam- 
ship Italy,  and  take  passage  for  New  York.  Tlie  ship 
leaves  Liverpool  at  2  p.  m.  ;  distance  by  tlie  course  wdiich 
the  vessel  takes  about  thirty-two  hundred  miles ;  fare, 
for  state-room,  thirty-six  guineas  for  us  two.  The  Italy 
is  one  of  the  finest  ships  of  the  fleet  to  which  she  be- 
longs, built  of  iron,  propelled  by  a  flange-screw,  full 
rigged,  of  the  capacity  of  forty-iive  hundred  tons,  and 
consumes  forty-five  tons  of  coal  every  twenty-four  hours. 
Her  crew,  including  ofiicers,  servants,  and  sailors,  consists 
of  over  one  hundred  men.  We  have  in  company  fifty- 
four  first-class  passengers,  among  whom  are  Commodore 
Calhoun,  of  the  United  States  Navy ;  Kev.  Isaac  Pierson, 
missionary  to  China ;  Rev.  W.  Linton,  Rev.  Dr.  Collyer, 
Rev.  Father  O'Connell,  Mr.  Sawyer,  of  Dublin,  and  many 
others  of  note. 

June  15th. — Weather  clear,  and  wind  blowing  hard 
from  the  northwest.  At  2  p.  m.  we  arrive  in  the  harbor 
of  Queenstown,  two  hundred  and  forty-four  miles  from 
Liverpool.  Here  we  remain  for  a  few  hours  taking  in 
freight  and  some  additional  passengers.  On  the  arrival 
of  the  British  mail,  which  left  London  last  evening  by 
the  way  of  Holyhead,  the  ship's  anchor  is  weighed  and 


390  AROUND    TEE    WORLD. 

we  steam  out  of  the  harbor,  during  the  afternoon  and 
evening  sailing  close  along  the  coast  of  Ireland. 

June  IQth. — Sky  overcast,  strong  head  wind  from  the 
northwest,  and  rough  sea.  Thermometer  45°.  Course 
west;  latitude  51°  4'  north,  longitude  13°  43'  west.  Dis- 
tance  run  from  Queenstown,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred 
and  thirteen  miles.  With  the  exception  of  the  China 
Sea,  we  found  the  winds  and  waves  nowhere  so  boister- 
ous as  on  the  Atlantic.  Many  of  our  passengers  to-day 
are  sea  sick,  which  is  more  unpleasant  and  distressing 
than  almost  any  other  sickness. 

Sea-sickness  is  caused  by  the  motion  of  the  ship — the 
pitching  and  rolling  of  the  vessel,  or  the  alternate  rising 
and  failing  of  the  bow  and  stern.  Some  people  never 
suffer  from  it,  others  only  on  their  first  voyage ;  others, 
again,  in  every  voyage  they  undertake.  With  some  it 
only  continues  for  a  few  hours,  while  others  suffer  almost 
constantly  throughout  a  long  voyage.  In  most  cases, 
however,  the  sickness  subsides  as  soon  as  the  sea  becomes 
smooth,  and  always  disappears  on  landing.  One  always 
feels  much  better  after  being  sea-sick  for  one  or  two  days, 
and  its  effect  is  much  better  for  the  system  than  a  regu- 
lar course  of  medicine. 

June  1  Itli.  — Weather  cloudy,  wind  blowing  hard 
from  the  northwest,  and  sea  running  high.  Thermome- 
ter 40°.  Course  west ;  latitude  50°  42'  north,  longitude 
19°  0'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and 
five  miles. 

June  ISth. — Weather  overcast,  wind  blowing  hard 
from  the  northwest,  and  sea  high.     Thermometer  41°. 


ATLANTIC    OCEAN.  391 

Course  west;  latitude  49°  43' north,  longitude  25°  11' 
west.  Ship  ran,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  forty-two 
miles.  This  being  the  Sabbath,  divine  service  was  con- 
ducted by  the  Rev.  J.  Pierson,  missionary  from  China. 

tlune  l%th. — Weather  cloudy,  wind  blowing  a  gale 
from  west-northwest,  and  sea  high.  Thermometer  39°. 
Course  west;  latitude  48°  15'  north,  longitude  30°  42' 
west.  Shij)  ran,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  thirty- 
:five  miles. 

June  20th. — Sky  overcast,  wind  blowing  hard  from 
the  west-northwest,  and  sea  high.  Thermometer  38°. 
Course  west;  latitude  46°  8'  north,  longitude  36°  11' 
west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  sixty 
miles. 

June  21st. — Weather  foggy,  wind  blowing  hard  from 
the  northwest,  and  sea  running  high.  Thermometer  37°. 
Course  west  by  south  ;  latitude  44°  15'  north,  longitude 
41°  30'  west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred 
and  fifty- three  miles. 

Ju7ie  22d. — Weather  both  foggy  and  stormy,  wind 
west,  and  sea  not  so  hio-h.  Thermometer  38°.  Course 
west  by  south  ;  latitude  42°  35'  north,  longitude  47°  25' 
west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  sev- 
enty-six miles. 

June  2Sd. — Weather  foggy  and  stormy,  wind  strong 
from  the  southwest,  and  sea  running  high.  Thermome- 
ter 50°.  Course  west  by  south;  observation  taken  by 
dead  reckoning,  latitude  42°  11'  north,  longitude  53°  25' 
west.  Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  sixty 
miles. 


392  AROUND    THE   WORLD. 

June  24:th. — Weather  more  mild,  wind  southwest,  and 
sea  not  as  high.  Thermometer  60°.  Course  west  hy 
south;  latitude  41°  42'  north,  longitude  59°  10'  west. 
Distance  run,  up  to  12  m.,  two  hundred  and  sixty-six 
miles. 

(Tune  25th. — Weather  clear,  wind  fresh  from  the  south- 
west. Thermometer  61°.  Course  west  by  south ;  lati- 
tude 41°  north,  longitude  64°  43'  west.  Distance  run, 
up  to  12  M.,  two  hundred  and  iifty-five  miles.  To-day 
we  have  preaching  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Linton,  of  London. 

June  26fh. — Weather  warm  and  foggy,  wind  light 
from  the  southwest,  and  sea  smooth.  Thermometer  70°. 
Course  west  by  south ;  latitude  40°  31'  north,  longitude 
70°  43'  west.  Distance  run  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
three  miles.  At  12  m.  we  are  within  one  hundred  and 
thirty-two  miles  of  New  York.  In  consequence  of  the 
fog,  the  steam-whistle  has  been  constantly  sounding  for 
the  last  tw^elve  or  fifteen  hours,  and  at  intervals  fire- 
rockets  are  sent  up,  lest  we  should  come  in  collision  with 
some  vessel. 

June  27th. — Some  time  durino-  the  nio-ht  we  were 
boarded  by  a  Sandy  Hook  pilot.  This  morning  early 
we  have  in  view  the  Highlands  of  the  New  Jersey  coast, 
and  then  the  green  shores  of  the  harbor ;  and  soon  after 
the  spires  of  New  York  City  rose  on  our  sight,  all  of 
which  seemed  as  familiar  as  things  but  of  yesterday.  At 
7  A.  M.  we  ari'ived  at  the  quarantine-ground,  where  we  re- 
mained for  about  an  hour,  waiting  for  the  health-ofiicer, 
and  the  city  about  nine  o'clock.  After  having  our  trunks- 
examined,  we  returned  to  our  home  in  safety. 


.    ATLANTIC    OCEAN.  393 

Diiriug  our  sojourn  we  have  traveled,  by  sea  and 
land,  twenty-seven  thousand  five  hundred  miles — eight 
thousand  five  hundred  and  twenty-eight  miles  by  land 
and  eighteen  thousand  nine  hundred  and  seventy-two 
miles  over  sea — and  here  we  are  at  home  again. 

I  am  very  glad  that  we  have  got  through  with  our 
travels  and  adventures  without  any  evil  befalling  us,  for 
which  we  shall  ever  remain  thankful.  I  can  but  attribute 
our  great  success  in  the  avoidance  of  ills  to  a  kind  Provi- 
dence, which  has  been  over  us  in  all  the  perils  we  have 
encountered  by  sea  and  land. 

Of  all  the  countries  throuo-h  which  we  have  traveled, 
there  is  none  that  struck  us  more  favorably  in  its  general 
aspect  than  that  of  the  United  States,  with  her  majestic 
mountain  scenery,  broad  prairies,  and  grand  old  forests, 
lakes,  and  numerous  rivers,  with  all  the  varieties  of  cli- 
mate, and,  above  all,  rainfall  in  its  regular  course  in  due 
season,  bringing  forth  prolific  crops,  which  are  the  great- 
est of  all  blessings  that  can  be  bestowed  upon  mankind. 

The  making  the  circuit  of  the  globe  is  a  mere  ques- 
tion of  taste,  time,  and  means  ;  although  there  is  no  tour 
that  can  be  made  which  is  of  more  interest,  for  there  is  a 
great  deal  to  be  seen  and  learned  that  can  be  practically 
acquired  neither  in  Europe  nor  America.  The  most 
favorable  time  for  making  the  tour  is  to  leave  New  York 
in  the  month  of  August ;  spend  a  month  or  six  weeks  in 
crossino-  the  American  Continent,  which  time  can  be 
profitably  devoted  to  points  of  interest  along  the  line  of 
the  Union  and  Central  Pacific  Railroads ;  stopping  at 
Niagara  Falls,  Chicago,  Salt  Lake  City,  and  San  Fran- 

26 


394  AROUND    THE    WORLD. 

cisco,  thougli  many  other  places  of  importance  may  be 
seen.  It  is  best  to  leave  San  Francisco  as  early  as  tlie 
first  of  October  for  Yokohama,  by  the  Pacific  Mail  Com- 
pany's ships,  spending  aVjout  four  mouths  in  traveling 
through  the  warm  countries  of  Japan,  China,  and  India, 
leaving  the  latter  country  not  later  than  the  first  of 
March,  for  Egypt,  in  order  to  avoid  the  extreme  heat  of 
the  Ked  Sea.  From  Egypt  proceed  to  Syria  and  Pales- 
tine, and  spend  the  following  summer  on  the  Continent 
of  Europe  and  Great  Britain. 

We  suffered  none  from  cold ;  neither  did  we  experi- 
ence any  very  hot  weather,  excepting  in  the  south  of 
India,  where,  I  must  confess,  it  was  rather  too  warm  for 
a  few  days.  The  thermometer  ranged,  in  the  different 
countries,  all  the  way  from  33°  to  87°. 

It  is  well  to  state  that  the  journey  was  made  without 
the  occurrence  of  the  slightest  illness  to  either  of  us,  ex- 
cepting slight  sea-sickness ;  without  missing  a  steamer  or 
train,  without  accident  of  any  kind,  and  without  the  loss 
of  the  most  trilling  article. 


THE    END. 


A- 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 

Travel 
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